5th Wheel Towing With 2500 6.7

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davalt75

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I've got a 2021 2500 4x4 Laramie with the 6.7. I use it to tow a roughly 9,000# TT and it pulls it like a champ. My truck has the 5th wheel/gooseneck prep package and I've thought about switching to a 5th wheel but payload is what concerns me. The Ram website lists my truck's towing capacity at 16,780# but payload capacity as 2097#. I figure once you add a full load of fuel, 4 people in the cab, and whatever else, I really only have about half of that left. Does anyone tow a 5th wheel with their 2500? And if so, what is the weight (or more specifically, pin weight) of the camper?
 

Billet Bee

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We had a 16 model 2500 6.7 and the gvwr was 17,200. We ful time in our 14k fiver ( we've upgraded truck and rv since then). We traveled all around the u.s. with that fiver and never had a problem. Yes we were over pl rating, i don't pay attention to that number, i just watch my axle ratings and gcwr. Our truck never once sagged and always rode level. Now I hauled a 17k fiver a couple times for a friend and the Cummins easily did it but it definitly squatted us .
 
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davalt75

davalt75

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We had a 16 model 2500 6.7 and the gvwr was 17,200. We ful time in our 14k fiver ( we've upgraded truck and rv since then). We traveled all around the u.s. with that fiver and never had a problem. Yes we were over pl rating, i don't pay attention to that number, i just watch my axle ratings and gcwr. Our truck never once sagged and always rode level. Now I hauled a 17k fiver a couple times for a friend and the Cummins easily did it but it definitly squatted us .
The 5th wheel I'm considering is 12,275# dry weight. I know the truck has the power to pull it. I'm mainly concerned with it squatting the rear end and how the truck will handle. A set of air bags would solve that problem but if yours sat level with a 14k 5er then I might not need them. Some will argue that I'm still over the payload rating but I only pull the camper maybe 3 or 4 times a year and usually only a little over 100 miles at most. I noticed that you said the gvwr of your truck was 17,200? That's a lot higher than what's on the door sticker of mine. 10,000# is what's listed as gvwr.
 

Billet Bee

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The 5th wheel I'm considering is 12,275# dry weight. I know the truck has the power to pull it. I'm mainly concerned with it squatting the rear end and how the truck will handle. A set of air bags would solve that problem but if yours sat level with a 14k 5er then I might not need them. Some will argue that I'm still over the payload rating but I only pull the camper maybe 3 or 4 times a year and usually only a little over 100 miles at most. I noticed that you said the gvwr of your truck was 17,200? That's a lot higher than what's on the door sticker of mine. 10,000# is what's listed as gvwr.
Back then we just had a cheaper tradesman model, so much less equipped then your model which gave the bigger trailer weight.
Depending how you load things i believe you'll be just fine, especially with only a handful of short trips each year. .
I know some will say your over pl weight and that's unsafe. It's all about gawr and gcwr, you stay below those and you'll be safe , legal, and good to go . If you find that your around 15k and starting to sag then I'd just add some air bags and forget about it.
 
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davalt75

davalt75

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Ok. I think the gcwr will be much higher. I think the # I was looking at was just the truck fully loaded without the trailer. Thanks for the advice.
 

Irishthreeper

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I've got a 2021 2500 4x4 Laramie with the 6.7. I use it to tow a roughly 9,000# TT and it pulls it like a champ. My truck has the 5th wheel/gooseneck prep package and I've thought about switching to a 5th wheel but payload is what concerns me. The Ram website lists my truck's towing capacity at 16,780# but payload capacity as 2097#. I figure once you add a full load of fuel, 4 people in the cab, and whatever else, I really only have about half of that left. Does anyone tow a 5th wheel with their 2500? And if so, what is the weight (or more specifically, pin weight) of the camper?
I have a ‘21 2500 Hemi and tow a 5W with a 1250 lb pin weight and loaded it’s at about 10,500 lbs. I’m attaching my CAT readouts from last fall to give you an idea of loaded weight. We are full timers so E738ECB7-1C94-4128-9001-72D6D72809FF.jpegprobably have more stuff than you might have. After discounting hitch and other weights in the bed I think I probably have about 1900 lbs of pin and “stuff” weight. Hope it helps some
 

runamuck

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my son has a '20 2500 laramie dsl. he pulls a 8400# 5th wheel. says it pulls great but he hates the way it rides when not towing.
 

Billet Bee

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my son has a '20 2500 laramie dsl. he pulls a 8400# 5th wheel. says it pulls great but he hates the way it rides when not towing.
Wow, now that's a light fiver, can't say I've ever seen one way so little. He could of easily done that with a 1500
 

Zoe Saldana

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I've got a 2021 2500 4x4 Laramie with the 6.7. I use it to tow a roughly 9,000# TT and it pulls it like a champ. My truck has the 5th wheel/gooseneck prep package and I've thought about switching to a 5th wheel but payload is what concerns me. The Ram website lists my truck's towing capacity at 16,780# but payload capacity as 2097#. I figure once you add a full load of fuel, 4 people in the cab, and whatever else, I really only have about half of that left. Does anyone tow a 5th wheel with their 2500? And if so, what is the weight (or more specifically, pin weight) of the camper?

The simplest number to understand and go by it payload.

Look at the payload number on the door.
Subtract everything you put in the truck.
If you can't handle the pin weight - fully loaded - of the 5th; you need a 3500
 

Billet Bee

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The simplest number to understand and go by it payload.

Look at the payload number on the door.
Subtract everything you put in the truck.
If you can't handle the pin weight - fully loaded - of the 5th; you need a 3500
Need a 3500 for a 14-15k fiver that you might pull 4 times a year, come on now. I know there are sticklers out there for following all the numbers but most of us know that the pl rating number is a low number and the gawr and gcwr are the most important things to follow while towing . I can't imagine buying a 3500 to pull a fiver with a pin weight of 3000lbs or under, that's kind of silly and overkill dont you think. I totally get wanting to buy 3500 but need, I don't believe so at that weight
 
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davalt75

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I have a ‘21 2500 Hemi and tow a 5W with a 1250 lb pin weight and loaded it’s at about 10,500 lbs. I’m attaching my CAT readouts from last fall to give you an idea of loaded weight. We are full timers so View attachment 491973probably have more stuff than you might have. After discounting hitch and other weights in the bed I think I probably have about 1900 lbs of pin and “stuff” weight. Hope it helps some
Thanks. That does give me an idea of what the loaded pin weight might be for a big, loaded 5th wheel. The one I'm considering is 12,275 dry weight so I think the loaded weight of the camper and pin weight would be a good bit lower than yours. I know the truck can pull it. I just want to make sure I can control it.
 
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davalt75

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my son has a '20 2500 laramie dsl. he pulls a 8400# 5th wheel. says it pulls great but he hates the way it rides when not towing.
That's a little lighter than the TT I have now. I bet he can hardly tell it's back there. As far as the ride goes, I can't speak for GM but I've had two F250 diesels and my Ram rides better than either of them. No 3/4 ton truck is going to give you the ride of a 1/2 ton, though.
 
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davalt75

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I didn't realize this was such a hot topic when I posted this thread but after doing some reading I've realized there are basically two schools of thought on this.

1. The payload rating is there for a reason and should adhered to no matter what. Period. It's the law.

2. The payload rating is a number assigned by the manufacturer to keep the truck within a designated weight class but is well below the actual capabilities of the truck and the real numbers to pay attention to are the axle and tire load ratings.

I've also realized it's a debate that won't be settled in this thread or on this forum. People will have (and are entitled to) their opinions, regardless of any amount of debating on the subject. That being said, I think I lean towards the second school of thought, within reason. I actually have a good friend and neighbor who works for the state transport police here in SC and deals with this type of thing on a daily basis. He also owns a 5th wheel he pulls with a GMC 2500 gasser. He'll give me his honest opinion on it and I'll post his perspective when I get it.
 

Billet Bee

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I didn't realize this was such a hot topic when I posted this thread but after doing some reading I've realized there are basically two schools of thought on this.

1. The payload rating is there for a reason and should adhered to no matter what. Period. It's the law.

2. The payload rating is a number assigned by the manufacturer to keep the truck within a designated weight class but is well below the actual capabilities of the truck and the real numbers to pay attention to are the axle and tire load ratings.

I've also realized it's a debate that won't be settled in this thread or on this forum. People will have (and are entitled to) their opinions, regardless of any amount of debating on the subject. That being said, I think I lean towards the second school of thought, within reason. I actually have a good friend and neighbor who works for the state transport police here in SC and deals with this type of thing on a daily basis. He also owns a 5th wheel he pulls with a GMC 2500 gasser. He'll give me his honest opinion on it and I'll post his perspective when I get it.
I obviously agree with the second School of thought but will also add that if and i mean if is a long shot with that size of fifth wheel that you do get pulled over for something stupid all dot checks is the axle rating, period. I also talked to my SD insurance agent and all they go by as well is axle ratings in the event of an accident but if it's a serious wreck that requires the vehicle to be towed away to a scale to be checked then they go by the axle ratings and gcwr in which you would be well under both.
Your truck is rated to safely operate and stop a weight up to your gcwr so know need to worry about being dangerous and not being able to stop. Like I previously said we toured The entire U.S. with our 2500 pulling 14k and never once had any issue with performance or safety.
Enjoy your rv experiences and whatever truck you buy
 

Irishthreeper

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Thanks. That does give me an idea of what the loaded pin weight might be for a big, loaded 5th wheel. The one I'm considering is 12,275 dry weight so I think the loaded weight of the camper and pin weight would be a good bit lower than yours. I know the truck can pull it. I just want to make sure I can control it.
You would be much heavier, my 5W is only 8450 dry, 10,500 loaded. The rear axle weight included the truck which is about 2900 lbs, so 2200 is what’s loaded
 
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davalt75

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Ok, so I said I would post what my friend who works for DOT said when I talked to him. I'm not here to say any point of view is right or wrong or to try to sway anyone one way or the other. This is just to provide insight from someone from DOT, knowledgeable about the law and towing, for anyone who might read this thread having the same questions as me. He basically said he wouldn't hesitate at all to pull the camper I mentioned with my truck. He said basically the payload # is made for legal reasons but the truck is much more capable and can tow and stop more safely. He echoed that the axle weight and gcvw is what's really important. Are you potentially setting yourself up for a lawsuit in the event of an accident and you're over payload? Possibly. But the chance is small at best.
 

Billet Bee

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Ok, so I said I would post what my friend who works for DOT said when I talked to him. I'm not here to say any point of view is right or wrong or to try to sway anyone one way or the other. This is just to provide insight from someone from DOT, knowledgeable about the law and towing, for anyone who might read this thread having the same questions as me. He basically said he wouldn't hesitate at all to pull the camper I mentioned with my truck. He said basically the payload # is made for legal reasons but the truck is much more capable and can tow and stop more safely. He echoed that the axle weight and gcvw is what's really important. Are you potentially setting yourself up for a lawsuit in the event of an accident and you're over payload? Possibly. But the chance is small at best.
Agreed, and our sd insurance does not go buy pl, only gawr & gcwr when towing and gawr & gvwr when not towing.
Enjoy your journeys
 

Zoe Saldana

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Need a 3500 for a 14-15k fiver that you might pull 4 times a year, come on now. I know there are sticklers out there for following all the numbers but most of us know that the pl rating number is a low number and the gawr and gcwr are the most important things to follow while towing . I can't imagine buying a 3500 to pull a fiver with a pin weight of 3000lbs or under, that's kind of silly and overkill dont you think. I totally get wanting to buy 3500 but need, I don't believe so at that weight

Considering you have a diesel you need to look at the numbers. Diesel has a lower number then gas.

Here is what I see - people are clueless as to the true weights they are towing.
 

Nickx86

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before I say anything, I’m not looking for a discussion but a rant As a CDL holder I never understood the payload issue when it comes to GCRW and axle ratings. Most tractor trailers have an allowance of 12k steer, 34k drives and 34k trailers To give you your 80k gcrw in the states. So if your truck has 6k steer 6500 rear and your gcrw is xxxxx. Then your should be able to scale as such to get to your gcrw. As a CDL holder, I can just buy a weight sticker for the side of a truck and legally scale that weight even if I’m over payload on my truck…stupid laws for sure but end of rant
 

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All I ever worried about was my tire load range rating. I could register my truck and trailer for the tire load rating - I just paid more $$$. As long as I don’t go over that - I ain’t worried. I put air bags on and let it eat. I had over 1.000,000 miles running oil field hot shot all over the country and not once did I have a problem.

But I do recommend 99% of people strictly adhere to the manufacturer’s recommendations. Cause I’ve seen how most of y’all drive.
 
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