Has anyone reached out to Moes?
If anyone has a solution it’s them. A lot of guys have tuned 6.4 2500”s with out changing the T stat to a lower temp, just curious as to why you want to?
A little history:
I live outside of Denver, southwest about 15 miles, elevation 6700 ft, tucked up in the foothills of the Rockies. My trucks main avenue to everywhere and anywhere is a ****storm of an interstate, I-25. The traffic pattern on 25 is if you are going 90mph, you are in the way, hang on! Stop! Right to 0 very quickly, ok now GO, come on, I'm important out the way, usually this someone is within 6 feet of my tailgate, wanting to go faster. Damn lady, there's 18 miles of taillights ahead, what good does it do to ride in my pocket?
God I love my truck.
This is way too long, someone should break thumbs. I do apologize, I should have eaten lunch. I got stuff i gotta do, is what it is TMI, but i want to show that this isnt some 20F trick, it's been thought about and studied and a 20F drop seems to make sense, although I dont know if I do.........
The truck could live with the OE thermostat temp but I think she'll live longer and stronger if I can turn the summer time temps down just a bit. Yet as difficult is this mod is proving to be the temp might be the temp. I am going to try a 180F stat spring from a 1500 stat.
For any who were wondering the 1500 5.7 housing and stat don't straight swap. The stat has a different length and the recirculating valve wouldnt seat. I'm going to try to swap the spring shortly, slight chance. I'llpost more later, I want to answer RatKets question.
I am trying to implement lower summer time operating temp for the truck. I'd like to see intake stream, the combustion chamber, the trans 10 to 15F cooler. However much is needed to avoid knock
I see high temps being detrimental to the life of the truck, especially when high temps bring knock.
My 6.4 has 0 LT and 0 ST running 93 can tune on 91 fuel, during all points of driving, zero knock, but only as long as my temps are down.
The CAI, right now, my dealer installed K&N CAI is a flipn joke. The air box is at least 1" away from sealing against the hood. And if it did seal, the remaining factory RAM version of CAI is almost as bad; pulling 'cold air' from just inside the engine bay.
With an ambient air temp of 85F my intake air stream in stop and go traffic is upwards 135+F . That right there gives me knock, short term and long term.
When I'm rolling 90mph, my intake stream is 8F to 15F warmer than ambient air. No knock but CAI gotta be sucking air right of the exhaust manifold! lol, kidding. Kinda
Engine bay could stand to lose a little temp as well. I see signs of heat stress on almost everything under the hood, including the intake air stream, moving or sitting.
Engine bay heat, this is what I am doing ceramic coat a premium exhaust system from ARH. Paid $2044 for ArH tubes, cats, and pipes (f.... beautiful by the way) then threw another $500 to $600, (and 3 weeks) to have the thermal barrier applied. I was told that alone could remove 175F. But I'm pushing $3500 on plumbing past the dear axle and it's not even hung yet. But the ceramic coating / thermal barrier was done only and I mean only because I believe high temps are so very unhealthy and the chosen o.p is too high. Because these affects are not too far off o.p
So, in a shell, the effort will include sealing, rerouting, and insulating the CAI, losing the OE Exhaust logs and installing. Ceramic coated ARH LT headers and exhaust system. (And ceramic coated all the way past the trans)
(ceramic coating by Pristine Powder Coating, denver)
I figure my 6.4 is making a large part of the heat, dropping it 20F will give the entire system the opportunity to perform its cooling tasks even better
It's not like I'm pulling the stat and free flowing, but I wanna stay well south of high temp stress and a 20F lower stat and operating point seems to really make sense.
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