6.4L upgades

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928dennis

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I have a 19 3500 and went right to the ARH headers. We had a few problems with a check engine light at first but worked through that. The HP gain is huge, 40 to 50 flywheel would be real. The truck is better everywhere in the RPM range. The stock exhaust manifolds are the cork, really really bad. I kept the rest of tge exhaust stock because I like how quit the truck is. There my be a few more HP there but not worth the noise trade off. The stock exhaust is huge. Also there is a company who has tunes now, Livernos in Mich. One could figure 470 to 480 with headers and tune. And a bunch of torque. If you wont big gains just go fo these, everything else is just pin pricking at it.
 
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Albert525

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I have a 19 3500 and went right to the ARH headers. We had a few problems with a check engine light at first but worked through that. The HP gain is huge, 40 to 50 flywheel would be real. The truck is better everywhere in the RPM range. The stock exhaust manifolds are the cork, really really bad. I kept the rest of tge exhaust stock because I like how quit the truck is. There my be a few more HP there but not worth the noise trade off. The stock exhaust is huge. Also there is a company who has tunes now, Livernos in Mich. One could figure 470 to 480 with headers and tune. And a bunch of torque. If you wont big gains just go fo these, everything else is just pin pricking at it.

so the truck 6.4L stock doesn't have shortie headers? just cast iron manifold like the 5.7L?
did you got with catless long tubes?
 
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Albert525

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I had a Tacoma with a trd super charger it was fun but remember if it's your daily driver you be a foo. After spending 6k on a supercharger the cost of gas went through the roof.

Super anything you have to use premium fuel. I got stopped by the cops for speeding close to a 100 with out realizing it. Lucky he let me off with a ass chewing (on my way to work I'm now retired cop) would have cost a perty peny for the fine.

Bought a f250 dropped a **** load of $$$$ on it then changed it dropped more $$$$$ then traded it in again dropped a **** load of $$$$$$ then

I bought my power wagon. Have no complaints love the power it makes. Love the ride quality what I can tell ya bud dont freak with it. Trying to gain more power from it

Mods I will always do since I am a kid at heart

S&b cai
borla rx1 or something didn't like it
Now flowmaster super 44
Spod module
All kinds of stupid lights
Diamond back tun cover

Dude nod your truck to make it your own show your individuality more power=more gas



Sent from my SM-T830 using Tapatalk

more efficient = more power AND better fuel efficiency aka less gas.
 

theviking

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so the truck 6.4L stock doesn't have shortie headers? just cast iron manifold like the 5.7L?
did you got with catless long tubes?

Essentially they look identical to the 5.7 log manifolds.
 

928dennis

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For a 19 model changing to a cold air and a catback is a waste of money. You might see some minor HP gains if you had headers but as long as the motor is breathing through those really, really bad exhaust manifolds you are just throwing good money away. The first thing I did was ro add headers, costly yes but the butt dyno is very happy. Those and a tuner 460 to 470 flywheell HP is real. And big torque numbers. I am 100% happy with mine, and it's quit to boot.
 

WY.Ram

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I dig this topic so I will share my experience. Full on agree with a lot of what is already said. And then not with a little here and there. Doesn't really matter tho. Hopefully this is interesting enough to make up for the length. Phones just make **** look long and over authored. ;) Probably is.

Yours and mine will obviously have some significant differences. Mostly my six speed to your eight. Advantage you. I'm regeared to 5.13 and running on 36" sneaks, MTs. So now we are a little closer.

I live at 7000ft and usually go uphill from here, all the way to 12,000ft often enough. The power loss for any combustion engine at 7000ft vs sea level is 20% power loss just for showing up here. I could run a supercharger at 6 psi which would return my 20% power loss due to elevation and not stress the truck anymore then a stocker at sea level. (I think my maxcare should still be valid if I'm not exceeding stock specs ya) ok maybe the extra new found torque would violate but I'm not sure exactly where a Whipple at 6psi would land the final numbers. I bet Tach_tech knows. He's sport'n a Whipple with all the proper support on his.

My wife gave me the go ahead on a Whipple (I don't have to ask, I'm just trying to make her feel in control. [emoji1787] ) I haven't cause im afraid to blow my BGE or for sure my RFE up, because of the that thin piston ring lip thingy that a member upstairs mentioned earlier. That and my driving style.

The 6.4l BGE engine (truck engine) has a forged bottom end and was is produced for all those things you already know. BUT that doesn't mean the BGE won't straight up scream if setup and tuned as such.

I did all the bolt ons (except tb) unlocked the PCM and have run both HF and Greene Racing tunes.

I wasn't intending to build a quarter mile pony with a three quarter ton truck, but with the engine mods and the 5.13 gear w 35s at 7000', I damn near have one. My 7600lb girlie will straight up scream even with my **** shifting six speed, I drive in an environment of Mercedes, Audi, Beamer, Subies, Raptors and other "I'm so much better than you" cars, lots of good sized hills too. Nothing I love more than ruining their day by smoking their butt from red light to red light, or from an 80mph roll and if it's up hill, I will bury most anything that looks sideways at me. Matched an Audi thru four gears to 90 on a flat road, he was pissed.

I'm just saying the BGE can and will get it done and I'm just starting, Green Racing custom cam, hell cat lifters, valves, springs ( full kit from Jay $2100 ish is next) the rest of my mods are in my sig. All the same gear your talking about. Might grab a ported tb on my way to the cam swap, just cause I'm bored and wanna see, but will need it for cam swap, my understanding is the stocker is not limiting me yet.

If I want to build it tho, I had to make sure restrictions were not present, so air in and air out. The single best was the headers, high flow cats (might cut em out) and yank that f y pipe POS out as soon as you can. Stocker is a joke probably get most of the gains of full exhaust, headers to muffler, just by ripn that stocker y-pipe out.

Just to note individually the mods are a little harder to detect one by one in a 2500 compared to what the 1500 guys feel on each install, and at 7000' i feel 20% less then an already 'does it make a difference' mod then others. But All of the boltons together WITH a tune, have made a screaming difference. And I was willing to burn off my 35s to show boat it too. And bury a ford at same time - icing bro.

I'm going to schedule a Dyno pull session soon, real soon, so I know how far I've come and how much the Greene cam swap is going to do (I've seen the results and I'm so jazzed it's going to double my current gains above stock for a very nice place to be with regards to torque and ponies.

Never hurts to rock a little head work as long as they are off, 3 angle valve job, port match everything in and out, but don't doubt BGE heads for air flow. They move air.

I think the biggest detuning of the BGE is the ****wad cam. It's gotta go and I think I'm going to have much of it's potential. I'll leave the compression alone, no head mill, but the valve job. And port match.

Hope thats not too long a write, but it seems to be similar to the information you've been seeking and sifting.

Oh last thing, I think, bought my 16 in 15 and it took Soo f long to finally have access to an unlocked and tunable PCM, hopefully the 20 doesn't have any new security or encryption because until you can tune just keep buying the parts and install when tune is available. And yes I ate a Mx Care liftime, but I want my truck a certain way, gotta walk on eggshells to get FCA to honor warranty anyway at least that's what I tell my self but so far absolutely no regrets. Other than I dont have the valve train swapped yet.

Edit: only once has a truck gapped me And it was silly, a deleted, tuned and whatever else diesel on 32"tires and me on 37s. It was very impressive through 5 gears. And dudes come after my wagon like she's a cheap ******. They only try once tho, seriously nobody asks for another try.

I am bragging up the 6.4L BGE truck engine. I. Just happen to be lucky as f have one. the Rest is props to the 6.4L BGE.

[emoji16]

'16 Wagon Greene tune feed'n & fire'n 6.4L with 6spd 5.13 AAM, 37" KM3, -12mm Fuels Thuren Overland, DOR, Purple Cranium CAI, ARH, Solo Mach44 z36, EBC Custom vinyl AVS, 4% tint Morimoto, Rigid, Diode Dynamics AlfaOBD, Diablo, Nanny Kill, Locker bypass .................
 
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theviking

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Unless you know something that most of us don't, Whipple never managed to release a kit of the 6.4 BGE. I would call them ever once in a while and was always given the same answer. Check back in six months. And almost six years later, still nothing.
 

NDanecker

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Unless you know something that most of us don't, Whipple never managed to release a kit of the 6.4 BGE. I would call them ever once in a while and was always given the same answer. Check back in six months. And almost six years later, still nothing.

My local tuner ordered a kit for my 2019 when i started this project last year (for the 5.7). Whipple kept delaying the delivery until we finally gave up and went with Harrop. Better supercharger as it uses the more efficient Eaton 2650 rotating assembly.

Either way the 5.7 & 6.4 are basically the same block (from an intake perspective) but different bores. The BGE block is the starting platform for the hellcat motor which offers longer cooling passages and provisions for piston oil squirters so other than color they are the same block. The car block has a different front pulley setup (alternator is down low) and the truck has the alternator up high, but bare blocks are the same. Since pulley setups are different you can't take a kit from a car and bolt onto truck. So the supercharger itself will fit (as Whipple does offer kits for car and truck platforms) but probably don't have a 'kit' ready which needs to have a tune for that specific vehicle. Since you will probably retune whatever Whipple offers I'd just order the parts from Whipple and build your own setup (if a Whipple is what you really want). Their tune probably stinks anyways, and once you change one variable (like exhaust) the tune Whipple offers in their kit no longer applies.
 

WY.Ram

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I had the same issue when I bought mine, I think that's why I went to arh directly but that cost me an extra $200 compared to Moe's. I don't know why arh wouldn't have them listed but I just looked, quickly like, didn't see em.
Moe's has them listed

http://www.moes-performance.com/mobile/Product.aspx?ProductCode=DRH34WC-6.4

'16 Wagon Greene tune feed'n & fire'n 6.4L with 6spd 5.13 AAM, 37" KM3, -12mm Fuels Thuren Overland, DOR, Purple Cranium CAI, ARH, Solo Mach44 z36, EBC Custom vinyl AVS, 4% tint Morimoto, Rigid, Diode Dynamics AlfaOBD, Diablo, Nanny Kill, Locker bypass .................
 
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Albert525

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For a 19 model changing to a cold air and a catback is a waste of money. You might see some minor HP gains if you had headers but as long as the motor is breathing through those really, really bad exhaust manifolds you are just throwing good money away. The first thing I did was ro add headers, costly yes but the butt dyno is very happy. Those and a tuner 460 to 470 flywheell HP is real. And big torque numbers. I am 100% happy with mine, and it's quit to boot.
Most restrictive part in exhaust is cats, second headers, yes. Thanks.
Staying away from head work, cam shaft, internals etc...
my desire is short tube headers and stock cats. Intake and exhaust beyond headers is strictly for sound.

Any one know of short tube headers that fix the 6.4L?
 

theviking

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Look?
I cannot find headers for the 6.4L did you order specifically for the 5.7L?

I have a 2015 so the headers may not work on a 2020 with the 8 speed trans. I called ARH and was told they were waiting for a development vehicle.
 
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Albert525

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I had the same issue when I bought mine, I think that's why I went to arh directly but that cost me an extra $200 compared to Moe's. I don't know why arh wouldn't have them listed but I just looked, quickly like, didn't see em.
Moe's has them listed

http://www.moes-performance.com/mobile/Product.aspx?ProductCode=DRH34WC-6.4

'16 Wagon Greene tune feed'n & fire'n 6.4L with 6spd 5.13 AAM, 37" KM3, -12mm Fuels Thuren Overland, DOR, Purple Cranium CAI, ARH, Solo Mach44 z36, EBC Custom vinyl AVS, 4% tint Morimoto, Rigid, Diode Dynamics AlfaOBD, Diablo, Nanny Kill, Locker bypass .................
Thais long tubes, looking for short tube headers, keep stock cats. Honetly it makes no sense to use cast iron restrictive exhaust manifolds, when the srt8 6.4L has perfected short tubes stock, AND DOESNT make the car/truck less reliable
 

theviking

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Thais long tubes, looking for short tube headers, keep stock cats. Honetly it makes no sense to use cast iron restrictive exhaust manifolds, when the srt8 6.4L has perfected short tubes stock, AND DOESNT make the car/truck less reliable

I have never heard of anyone trying. But FYI, I've had ARH headers on my truck (2015 6.4) for almost 60k miles and they've never given me an issue. The main difference I see between a 5.7 and 6.4 exhaust setup is the EGR on 6.4 BGE motors. It's also the reason a PD blower setup is more complicated since an EGR cooler since right in the valley beneath the intake manifold. I don't believe any SRT motors use EGR.
 

theviking

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My local tuner ordered a kit for my 2019 when i started this project last year (for the 5.7). Whipple kept delaying the delivery until we finally gave up and went with Harrop. Better supercharger as it uses the more efficient Eaton 2650 rotating assembly.

Either way the 5.7 & 6.4 are basically the same block (from an intake perspective) but different bores. The BGE block is the starting platform for the hellcat motor which offers longer cooling passages and provisions for piston oil squirters so other than color they are the same block. The car block has a different front pulley setup (alternator is down low) and the truck has the alternator up high, but bare blocks are the same. Since pulley setups are different you can't take a kit from a car and bolt onto truck. So the supercharger itself will fit (as Whipple does offer kits for car and truck platforms) but probably don't have a 'kit' ready which needs to have a tune for that specific vehicle. Since you will probably retune whatever Whipple offers I'd just order the parts from Whipple and build your own setup (if a Whipple is what you really want). Their tune probably stinks anyways, and once you change one variable (like exhaust) the tune Whipple offers in their kit no longer applies.

That's some setup! The 6.4 BGE motor has an elaborate EGR setup which complicates the fitment of any PD blower without drastically altering or eliminating the EGR. Since it could potentially cause legal issue I suspect this is why we haven't seen any PD kits. I know they are marketed for "Off-road use only", but I'm sure it's still a risk. Otherwise the FEAD is pretty much identical (unless you have the dual alternator option) and most other fitment issues appear to be minor. Richard Petty built a 6.4 truck using a Magnuson but I know they did eliminate the EGR.
 

WY.Ram

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Thais long tubes, looking for short tube headers, keep stock cats. Honetly it makes no sense to use cast iron restrictive exhaust manifolds, when the srt8 6.4L has perfected short tubes stock, AND DOESNT make the car/truck less reliable
I agree, absolutely no reason to use cast iron exhaust manifolds.

Sorry I linked you lt headers instead of shorties. Obviously the 5.7l shorties are going to bolt up to the heads, the only fitment issue, I would guess, is if I the downstream flanges that the shorties or exhaust manifolds bolt to are located exactly as a 5.7l. if so you're done, if not it's totally fixable just a pita and a little more cash unless your a welder or at least skilled at the art..

Am I reading your post correctly and are you suggesting long tubes MAKE a vehicle less reliable? Could you give a little more detail on what powertrain system (or any system, suspension, control network, etc) become less reliable with headers?

Also, just the short version (no pun intended), how does the longer length of the long tube cause these said reliability issues but the lil shorties don't inflict the same tubular issues because they're short?

'16 Wagon Greene tune feed'n & fire'n 6.4L with 6spd 5.13 AAM, 37" KM3, -12mm Fuels Thuren Overland, DOR, Purple Cranium CAI, ARH, Solo Mach44 z36, EBC Custom vinyl AVS, 4% tint Morimoto, Rigid, Diode Dynamics AlfaOBD, Diablo, Nanny Kill, Locker bypass .................
 
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Albert525

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I agree, absolutely no reason to use cast iron exhaust manifolds.

Sorry I linked you lt headers instead of shorties. Obviously the 5.7l shorties are going to bolt up to the heads, the only fitment issue, I would guess, is if I the downstream flanges that the shorties or exhaust manifolds bolt to are located exactly as a 5.7l. if so you're done, if not it's totally fixable just a pita and a little more cash unless your a welder or at least skilled at the art..

Am I reading your post correctly and are you suggesting long tubes MAKE a vehicle less reliable? Could you give a little more detail on what powertrain system (or any system, suspension, control network, etc) become less reliable with headers?

Also, just the short version (no pun intended), how does the longer length of the long tube cause these said reliability issues but the lil shorties don't inflict the same tubular issues because they're short?

'16 Wagon Greene tune feed'n & fire'n 6.4L with 6spd 5.13 AAM, 37" KM3, -12mm Fuels Thuren Overland, DOR, Purple Cranium CAI, ARH, Solo Mach44 z36, EBC Custom vinyl AVS, 4% tint Morimoto, Rigid, Diode Dynamics AlfaOBD, Diablo, Nanny Kill, Locker bypass .................
The argument made against my previous comment was the 6.4L lower hp truck engine was designed for long life durability for a truck, where a car is built for high performance, and no longevity like a truck.
They say totally different engine etc, Im saying near 500 hp car, just over 400 truck, I would think there are restrictive parts. My point is proper long tube headers just like car, DOSE NOT impact durability, its an obvious need for truck, why not 420 hp, is simple. Why not also ported heads, yes lower compression for durability, but ported heads, short tube headers, should be sock on truck. Short tubes are stock on car. Truck market is very competitive, and sorties are stock proven in car, lower compression, add forged parts, dont restrict air flow to lower hp, Truck should be 500 hp version. BTW both require 89 octane, this is due to timing and compression ratio.
Short tube headers add power, efficiency, and DOES NOT impact longevity or emissions.
 

theviking

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Problem is you're going to go through a lot of work on test fitment and fabricating a custom Y pipe. Which defeats the purpose. Just wait for ARH to release headers for your truck and take out all the guess work.

Porting the heads won't likely gain you much without a more aggressive camshaft. The SRT cam won't work so you'll be looking at a custom setup. Good luck.
 
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Albert525

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Problem is you're going to go through a lot of work on test fitment and fabricating a custom Y pipe. Which defeats the purpose. Just wait for ARH to release headers for your truck and take out all the guess work.

Porting the heads won't likely gain you much without a more aggressive camshaft. The SRT cam won't work so you'll be looking at a custom setup. Good luck.
your guessing ARH will eventually do shorties?
 
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