66RFE Transmission - Thermal Bypass Install Help

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HEMIMANN

HEMIMANN

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@HEMIMANN from the picture it's hard to tell but does where the lines from the transmission itself screw in to the revmax not flat? I'm trying to figure out why some of the bypasses are flat on that side when the lines screw in and some like the revmax have the bottom line extended more towards the back of the truck. Sorry if I'm not explaining it right but hopefully you'll understand what I'm talking about.

I just installed the revmax on my truck 16 66rfe and was curious since the stock pos was flat on that rear side where the revmax I have isn't. Where the bottom line attaches is more rearward.

I don't recall if my stock stat block was flat, sorry. I do recall the RevMax fit np, after I figured out the ungodly retaining clips on one end, that I haven't seen in 40 years of engineering and machinery.

My truck is a 2017.
 

White six four

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No problem. Still makes me wonder why some are flat and ones like the revmax aren't. Yeah those clips are something else. Why they couldn't do both sides the same and make it easy who knows. I got my revmax installed. Doesn't seem to be leaking just leftover residue I believe. Put about 40 miles on it tonight afterwards.

Also changed the filters. Just went with oem for filters, redline fluid, and lubelocker gasket. I was 2nd guessing everyone hear bragging up the lubelocker gasket. Went to put my pan back on (dorman with drain plug) and halfway into filling the trans back up I noticed the darn pan leaking back on the floor. I quickly grabbed a clean drain pan and drained the fluid back into that so I didn't waste any more and could reuse it. Took the pan back off cussing the lubelocker gasket out starting to think everyone touting it up was full of it. Come to find out after looking at the dorman pan I've had on there the past few years a few of the bolt holes were raised compared to between the holes. Luckily I kept the stock one so I cleaned that up put the lubelocker gasket on it and no leaks. I definitely don't recommend the dorman pan anymore. And I'm sorry for almost not believing the good fellas on here about the lubelocker gasket.
 

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I don't recall if my stock stat block was flat, sorry. I do recall the RevMax fit np, after I figured out the ungodly retaining clips on one end, that I haven't seen in 40 years of engineering and machinery.

My truck is a 2017.
Those clips are pretty common on Dodges transmission lines,the 8 speed also uses them.Don't let one get away on you,they're virtually impossible to find when they go sproing,ask me how i know,lol.When i did my 8 speed there were no video's on how to remove the lines,so it took me a few minutes to figure out how they come out,i found a small angle pick to work the best once you got the cap off them.
 
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Those clips are pretty common on Dodges transmission lines,the 8 speed also uses them.Don't let one get away on you,they're virtually impossible to find when they go sproing,ask me how i know,lol.When i did my 8 speed there were no video's on how to remove the lines,so it took me a few minutes to figure out how they come out,i found a small angle pick to work the best once you got the cap off them.

Have you ever seen these anywhere else?

Hydraulic lines are either SAE 37 deg flare or o-ring face seal, or quick disconnect today. NPT long gone, thank goodness.
 

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Gm uses them too. Not sure if they still do or for how long they did but on our 15 Suburban with the 6l80 transmission the lines going to the thermostat block had circlips on it. When I deleted the thermostat in that I made darn sure to be careful so I didn't lose one. It didn't come with new ones like the revmax.
 
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Gm uses them too. Not sure if they still do or for how long they did but on our 15 Suburban with the 6l80 transmission the lines going to the thermostat block had circlips on it. When I deleted the thermostat in that I made darn sure to be careful so I didn't lose one. It didn't come with new ones like the revmax.

Wow - are all these auto makers putting stats in their trans oil lines now?

I'd be ok if they used quality stat that didn't restrict the oil flow, but Ram used a pencil width little failure prone one.
 

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Have you ever seen these anywhere else?

Hydraulic lines are either SAE 37 deg flare or o-ring face seal, or quick disconnect today. NPT long gone, thank goodness.
The majority of aftermarket has accepted both A/N (37 degree) and ORB fittings,but alot of stuff still uses NPT fittings.I still tap things for NPT as i have pretty well all the common NPT taps.
 

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After the first time driving the wife's suburban (just got it a few months ago) I saw the trans temp get up to and stay right at 195 I ordered the bypass for it. Not sure about ford's but gm has thermostats in all of there trucks since the mid 10's from what I've seen. I was reading on another forum for gm trucks that with their new 10 speeds in order to properly check the fluid (no dipstick of course so have to do it underneath) the fluid has to be around 212 degrees.

All of these companies are nuts going after every little bit of mpg they can squeeze out and letting the people suffer when their trans burns up. I still hear it. "Oh you drive a dodge how many transmissions have you had to replace?" Over on the other forum I joined since we have the suburban now it sounds like you're lucky if you get 120k miles out of your gm trans. Now it doesn't really matter what you drive they all have their quirks and different problems but my opinion is they're all built to fail to get you back in to buy a new one.
 
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The majority of aftermarket has accepted both A/N (37 degree) and ORB fittings,but alot of stuff still uses NPT fittings.I still tap things for NPT as i have pretty well all the common NPT taps.

Ok, but you guys keep your stuff forever! lol

Story: after I left military, I ran across a rare NPT old product and mfg insisted on a torque spec to build any more (they were on a kick of torque spec for any thread - so they didn't have to think and could hire dumb$hits for less).

I called up the few mil guys I still knew - their official advice: "torque it until it doesn't leak". Honest to God.
 
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After the first time driving the wife's suburban (just got it a few months ago) I saw the trans temp get up to and stay right at 195 I ordered the bypass for it. Not sure about ford's but gm has thermostats in all of there trucks since the mid 10's from what I've seen. I was reading on another forum for gm trucks that with their new 10 speeds in order to properly check the fluid (no dipstick of course so have to do it underneath) the fluid has to be around 212 degrees.

All of these companies are nuts going after every little bit of mpg they can squeeze out and letting the people suffer when their trans burns up. I still hear it. "Oh you drive a dodge how many transmissions have you had to replace?" Over on the other forum I joined since we have the suburban now it sounds like you're lucky if you get 120k miles out of your gm trans. Now it doesn't really matter what you drive they all have their quirks and different problems but my opinion is they're all built to fail to get you back in to buy a new one.

Good lord. I don't want a new vehicle if this is what they're doing everywhere. Who the hell can afford these techno-glitz vehicles anymore if you can only get 100k miles out of them?
 

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Ok, but you guys keep your stuff forever! lol

Story: after I left military, I ran across a rare NPT old product and mfg insisted on a torque spec to build any more (they were on a kick of torque spec for any thread - so they didn't have to think and could hire dumb$hits for less).

I called up the few mil guys I still knew - their official advice: "torque it until it doesn't leak". Honest to God.
I've never seen a torque spec for a NPT fitting,as they're a tapered fitting.I remember my Dad telling me to keep tightening new hyd hoses till they didn't leak,and that was back in the early 70's.The majority of farm hyd systems operate at 3,000+ psi,so you had to use the "big" wrench to tighten them till they didn't leak :Big Laugh:
 
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HEMIMANN

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Hemiman how cool does your trans run since adding the bypass?

I reported that somewhere in the thread if you want to see the data. I don't remember.
 

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When I had mine installed it was running 140-150 at the hottest in 100 degree temps. I took it off when I moved back to the very cold northern state three years ago. I have the mag hytec pan which also provides cooling and is an extra two quarts.
 

17Ramguy78

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When I had mine installed it was running 140-150 at the hottest in 100 degree temps. I took it off when I moved back to the very cold northern state three years ago. I have the mag hytec pan which also provides cooling and is an extra two quarts.
More information which I guess some say knowledge is power. Transmission fluid works best around 175⁰ if too hot it will degrade and too cool its a bit harsher on trans clutches. With the tbv it consistently runs around high 160's, which is fine by me I left it alone. I will keep a close eye on tranny temps if it goes above 190⁰ I'm shutting her down to cool.
 

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the only use for the bypass is if you tow very heavy loads. When I had mine on it would take forever to warm under normal summer driving conditions, maybe 140-150 range. If your towing heavy up grades having that cooler temp will help keep you cooler as you reach the top of the mountain.

Towing 16k lbs of dump trailer and gravel up a 1/2 mile grade at sea level, starting at 168-170 degrees put me at 180 at the top of the hill. This is with the normal tranny thermostat. If the bypass was installed I’d probably started at 150 and ended at 160.

If your hauling over mountain passes that go on for miles, I could see a use for the bypass. I’m not stupid enough anymore to haul heavy loads over switch back mountains, I just take the long way around.
 

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