68RFE??

[13HD3500]

Hey guys,

Bought a used 2013 3500 DRW a couple months ago..around 103k miles on it. Been working perfect up until New Years Eve. Came to a stop at a red light on the way home and that was it. Nothing but neutrals in the transmission, no reverse no forward gears and no park whatsoever. Originally thought it was transfer case but shop says they ruled that out as it is shifting into 4x4 but still won't budge. I couldn't get the transfer case to shift into neutral the light won't come on. They're saying the transmission must be toast and want to haul it out, just wondering if there's anything else to try first??? It's not the rear end, driveshaft isn't moving under acceleration. It threw codes for different incorrect gear ratios but they went out when I restarted the truck. Fluid is a good level, and perfect color. If you put it in drive and accelerate it seems like it's trying to move but just won't. And I can't figure out why I don't have any park either.

Thanks for any help

 

[Bigseff23]

The transmission range sensor could be bad. So it doesn't know what gear to go into and that's probably why you don't have Park

 

[13HD3500]

The transmission range sensor could be bad. So it doesn't know what gear to go into and that's probably why you don't have Park

I tried shifting it thru the gears manually and still no movement. How could I determine the sensor? No lights on for anything.

 

[stevenP]

I am new to the 68RFE, but after reading thru this forum, looks like there is a known weakness issue with these transmissions. A lot of the threads on here state that the trans will last if you dont modify the engine for a lot more HP normally. But at 100k plus you might have reached your limits. I just bought my first CTD powered 2500 with this trans, guess I am on notice too.

 

[mtnrider]

Have to ask, is the truck tuned? Very rare to see transmission issues with a stock HP truck. Tuned is a different story, it won't last long at all with additional HP added and torque management modified.


.

 

[13HD3500]

Have to ask, is the truck tuned? Very rare to see transmission issues with a stock HP truck. Tuned is a different story, it won't last long at all with additional HP added and torque management modified.


.

No nothing tuned, completely stock truck.

 

[Fast69Mopar]

Hey guys,

Bought a used 2013 3500 DRW a couple months ago..around 103k miles on it. Been working perfect up until New Years Eve. Came to a stop at a red light on the way home and that was it. Nothing but neutrals in the transmission, no reverse no forward gears and no park whatsoever. Originally thought it was transfer case but shop says they ruled that out as it is shifting into 4x4 but still won't budge. I couldn't get the transfer case to shift into neutral the light won't come on. They're saying the transmission must be toast and want to haul it out, just wondering if there's anything else to try first??? It's not the rear end, driveshaft isn't moving under acceleration. It threw codes for different incorrect gear ratios but they went out when I restarted the truck. Fluid is a good level, and perfect color. If you put it in drive and accelerate it seems like it's trying to move but just won't. And I can't figure out why I don't have any park either.

Thanks for any help

If you don't have any forward gears or reverse there is an issue with the Underdrive clutch and the Low/Reverse clutch. These Underdrive clutch is use in 1st, 2nd, 3rd and 4th. The Low/Reverse clutch is uses in 1st and reverse.

I am a dealership technician and I build 68RFE's all the time. I see most of the failures from the tuned Cummins trucks. I have done several from stock trucks over the years that have had failures like yours though.

If you can't get the trans into park is say that the park pawl om the valve body is not moving like it should to engage the park pawl.

Do you have the truck at an independent shop or a dealership?

 

[SouthTexan]

The 68RFE does not like added power without adjusting the line pressure and trans tunning. It was even worse for the 2007-2013 guys because there was no way to tune the trans until around 2014 which is why these year models seems to last longer with added power than previous years. The weak valve body of the 68RFE can only handle about 170 psi of line pressure before leaking though the thin pressure plate and seals. The stock overdrive cluthes are also very thin. The other issues is that the thermal bypass valve can get stuck not allowing any flud to the cooler.

If you have to get a rebuild trans, I would recommend a lower stall torque converter and a revmax thermal bypass valve. If you plan on adding power later on, then I would at least recommend a revmax valve body and a Sonnax over drive hub. If you add a revmax valve body then I would have your tuner adjust the line pressure to at least 225 psi max. At that psi and beefier overdrive clutches along with a few other improvements, it should be able to handle about 600 rwhp.

 

[Gr8bawana]

The thermal by-pass valve is a waste of $$ for a problem that does not really exist.
All the so called "problems" with the by-pass valves are just marketing hype from the aftermarket by-pass valve replacement makers.

 

[13HD3500]

If you don't have any forward gears or reverse there is an issue with the Underdrive clutch and the Low/Reverse clutch. These Underdrive clutch is use in 1st, 2nd, 3rd and 4th. The Low/Reverse clutch is uses in 1st and reverse.

I am a dealership technician and I build 68RFE's all the time. I see most of the failures from the tuned Cummins trucks. I have done several from stock trucks over the years that have had failures like yours though.

If you can't get the trans into park is say that the park pawl om the valve body is not moving like it should to engage the park pawl.

Do you have the truck at an independent shop or a dealership?

Independent shop. I did get aftermarket warranty when I bought it so it had to go to one of the shops that supports it. They're also friends of the in-laws so that'll help. I'm from a small community there's only a couple places here that specialize in transmissions or will even touch them.

 

[SouthTexan]

The thermal by-pass valve is a waste of $$ for a problem that does not really exist.
All the so called "problems" with the by-pass valves are just marketing hype from the aftermarket by-pass valve replacement makers.

I would have to disagree here. My brother has the same 2014 that I do and the thermostat in his thermal bypass valve stayed stuck mostly closed causing his temps to skyrocket. I changed mine and my trans temps never get passed 180F when towing my 14k trailer where the stock one would easily get to 200F.

 

[BossHogg]

I would have to disagree here. My brother has the same 2014 that I do and the thermostat in his thermal bypass valve stayed stuck mostly closed causing his temps to skyrocket. I changed mine and my trans temps never get passed 180F when towing my 14k trailer where the stock one would easily get to 200F.

When the tranny over-heats, is there a dash warning? If so, what is the threshold temperature that triggers the warning?

 

[Fast69Mopar]

When the tranny over-heats, is there a dash warning? If so, what is the threshold temperature that triggers the warning?

There is a warning in the EVIC that will show up. I am almost certain that the warning is set to come on at 240°

 

[Gr8bawana]

I would have to disagree here. My brother has the same 2014 that I do and the thermostat in his thermal bypass valve stayed stuck mostly closed causing his temps to skyrocket. I changed mine and my trans temps never get passed 180F when towing my 14k trailer where the stock one would easily get to 200F.

Pulling my travel trailer in 107° temps my trans temp never got past 176°.
Believe what you will and carry on. I will go on my own first hand observations.

 

[SouthTexan]

Pulling my travel trailer in 107° temps my trans temp never got past 176°.
Believe what you will and carry on. I will go on my own first hand observations.

That is because the thermostat inside the bypass valve is opening like it should at the temps that it should. We put my brothers valve in the oven at 170F and it did not open like it should. It didn't even open at 200F. Not sure it was stuck from contaminants in the fluid or it just mechanical failure. Either way, I wouldn't want to chance it failing while I am towing hundreds of miles away from home all because a valve that is meant to get the temps up quickly to save a very small amount of fuel or to keep them hot in freezing temps that I am never in in south Texas. Those are my first hand observations.

 

[6inaRow]

Hey guys,

Bought a used 2013 3500 DRW a couple months ago..around 103k miles on it. Been working perfect up until New Years Eve. Came to a stop at a red light on the way home and that was it. Nothing but neutrals in the transmission, no reverse no forward gears and no park whatsoever. Originally thought it was transfer case but shop says they ruled that out as it is shifting into 4x4 but still won't budge. I couldn't get the transfer case to shift into neutral the light won't come on. They're saying the transmission must be toast and want to haul it out, just wondering if there's anything else to try first??? It's not the rear end, driveshaft isn't moving under acceleration. It threw codes for different incorrect gear ratios but they went out when I restarted the truck. Fluid is a good level, and perfect color. If you put it in drive and accelerate it seems like it's trying to move but just won't. And I can't figure out why I don't have any park either.

Thanks for any help

Are all the PRND Yellow? There is a fairly big electrical connector on the driver side of the transmission. I would disconnect that and make sure that there is no moisture in there and that all the pins are straight and appear to be making good contact. Just unplugging it and plugging it back in might even fix the problem.

When I added a Revmax Valve body (POS) 4ish years ago I forgot to connect the connector and I had no gears on the dash and the shifter would just move kind of loosely up and down. It was late and the 3rd time I removed and replaced it that day due to issues with the VB and ended up with the stock one in for a while until they could ship me a new one.

 

[6inaRow]

The 68RFE does not like added power without adjusting the line pressure and trans tunning. It was even worse for the 2007-2013 guys because there was no way to tune the trans until around 2014 which is why these year models seems to last longer with added power than previous years. The weak valve body of the 68RFE can only handle about 170 psi of line pressure before leaking though the thin pressure plate and seals. The stock overdrive cluthes are also very thin. The other issues is that the thermal bypass valve can get stuck not allowing any flud to the cooler.

If you have to get a rebuild trans, I would recommend a lower stall torque converter and a revmax thermal bypass valve. If you plan on adding power later on, then I would at least recommend a revmax valve body and a Sonnax over drive hub. If you add a revmax valve body then I would have your tuner adjust the line pressure to at least 225 psi max. At that psi and beefier overdrive clutches along with a few other improvements, it should be able to handle about 600 rwhp.

Just adding a VB is a waste of money IME. I did that and besides getting a dud one from Revmax, I snapped my input shaft on the first WOT run on a 100hp tune. Lol. Completely my fault, but the added line pressure and locked shifts didn't help.

The 68rfe is not a transmission you can just add a few parts to and make it reliable at max effort or above if romping on it from time to time IMO.

At minimum I think you need a good torque converter, input clutch drum with good quality frictions and steels (Sonnax), 2c and 4c clutches upgraded to something like Raybestos GPZ's (and at that point you may as well add low and reverse clutches (GPZ's)), billet input shaft, Valve body, upgraded pump, good tuning and a good sprag (unless your tuner is capable of tuning out the use of it). At that point you may as well just purchase an entirely built trans.

Here in the north there is no way I would install a thermal bypass. I haven't heard of any failures of them around me. Maybe it's more common in the south?

 

[68PowerWagon]

I would have to disagree here. My brother has the same 2014 that I do and the thermostat in his thermal bypass valve stayed stuck mostly closed causing his temps to skyrocket. I changed mine and my trans temps never get passed 180F when towing my 14k trailer where the stock one would easily get to 200F.

I disagree as well. I don't think mine was getting stuck but I did see 210* while towing a few times last summer. Even if the valve doesn't get stuck there is still a huge restriction that can be seen after you take it off & look down the ports. Now pulling my 13,200 pound 5th wheel I stay in the 175* range in 85* ambient temps. Glad I did the mod. Maybe just added a few years to my tranny.

 

[SouthTexan]

Just adding a VB is a waste of money IME. I did that and besides getting a dud one from Revmax, I snapped my input shaft on the first WOT run on a 100hp tune. Lol. Completely my fault, but the added line pressure and locked shifts didn't help.

The 68rfe is not a transmission you can just add a few parts to and make it reliable at max effort or above if romping on it from time to time IMO.

At minimum I think you need a good torque converter, input clutch drum with good quality frictions and steels (Sonnax), 2c and 4c clutches upgraded to something like Raybestos GPZ's (and at that point you may as well add low and reverse clutches (GPZ's)), billet input shaft, Valve body, upgraded pump, good tuning and a good sprag (unless your tuner is capable of tuning out the use of it). At that point you may as well just purchase an entirely built trans.

Here in the north there is no way I would install a thermal bypass. I haven't heard of any failures of them around me. Maybe it's more common in the south?

The basics of a valve body and overdrive hub is if someone is just going to use the lowest power setting of their tune like a 390ish rhwp tune. Many of my fiends who do not wish to spend the money I did on a built trans with all of the goodies only use these the low tunes and do fine with just a valve body upgrade. Of course as one going up in power then the list of mods needed to sustain it will grow. No doubt that if you are going over 450 rwhp, then all the upgrades you named is a must.

I am not sure if the TBV is more failure prone in southern states or if it is that it gets much hotter down here or the restriction on the stock unit is noticed more because of it. During the summer, it is common to be over 95F and even above 100F for several weeks. If I lived in a colder climate, where temps rarley got above 75F then I don't think I would have done this mod. It could be that since it is warmer down here throughout the year, the thermostat in the TBV has to open and close more often causing it to fail sooner.

 

[6inaRow]

The basics of a valve body and overdrive hub is if someone is just going to use the lowest power setting of their tune like a 390ish rhwp tune. Many of my fiends who do not wish to spend the money I did on a built trans with all of the goodies only use these the low tunes and do fine with just a valve body upgrade. Of course as one going up in power then the list of mods needed to sustain it will grow. No doubt that if you are going over 450 rwhp, then all the upgrades you named is a must.

I am not sure if the TBV is more failure prone in southern states or if it is that it gets much hotter down here or the restriction on the stock unit is noticed more because of it. During the summer, it is common to be over 95F and even above 100F for several weeks. If I lived in a colder climate, where temps rarley got above 75F then I don't think I would have done this mod. It could be that since it is warmer down here throughout the year, the thermostat in the TBV has to open and close more often causing it to fail sooner.

If you are staying at a 30hp or 60hp tow tune I wouldn't even bother with a valve body and input clutch drum if it was me. Stock will last a good long while at those levels WITH good trans tuning.

In the winter it takes a good long while for my trans to get to 55°F in order for the TCC to lockup even with a weather front. But being in northern Canada is a different climate than most of the world. Lol.