Accessory power off of battery? ps AMP running boards still suck!

[Westwind1124a]

Does anyone know the best place to take power from off the hot side of the battery?

I'm guessing that the 200a is the winch but I've never had so many options. Does it matter?



PS. I got these all ready to go and did a dry run with out the motor. yes they are awful. they do not clear on a 4th gen cab still. Shame on me for giving them another chance. I thought that maybe they'd fixed the problem.

 

[IRSmart]

If you take it off the top post, you’re drawing through the 200A fuse (which isn’t the end of the world). If you grab from another post, it’s coming right from the battery directly. That’s where I went.

 

[Westwind1124a]

Thanks! I'll go off of the aft one. Didn't think it matters but just wanted to be sure.

 

[Overlander]

The important thing is that you protect the circuit with a fuse as close to the source as practical. I.e. don't have an unfused hot leg route through the firewall and then fuse it in the cabin. To protect the circuit, the fuse should have equal or lower amp rating than the wire it protects. Also note that wire ampacity decreases with length. For example, a 6 foot 20A circuit under the hood might only require 16ga while the same routed to the bed would be 12ga for the same load. Poor electrical installs are a high cause of vehicle fires; take the time to do it correctly and over-build if in doubt.

Also, noise-sensitive devices (CB, Ham, Amps, etc) want to have a dedicated ground. It will work if you ground to chassis but you'll save yourself troubleshooting time later if you wire directly to the source.

 

[Westwind1124a]

The important thing is that you protect the circuit with a fuse as close to the source as practical. I.e. don't have an unfused hot leg route through the firewall and then fuse it in the cabin. To protect the circuit, the fuse should have equal or lower amp rating than the wire it protects. Also note that wire ampacity decreases with length. For example, a 6 foot 20A circuit under the hood might only require 16ga while the same routed to the bed would be 12ga for the same load. Poor electrical installs are a high cause of vehicle fires; take the time to do it correctly and over-build if in doubt.

Also, noise-sensitive devices (CB, Ham, Amps, etc) want to have a dedicated ground. It will work if you ground to chassis but you'll save yourself troubleshooting time later if you wire directly to the source.

Thanks for the input. I was vague on details but its actually just for a set of amp running boards and it does have a good fuse and ground.

I was just more concerned that 200a may cause some problems and the instructions suck on these things. not power wagon specific.

 

[retired]

where did you run the ground?

 

[Westwind1124a]

where did you run the ground?

This is what it looked like in the picture.

I just happened to have a nut that fit. Mine is a '18 FWIW

 

[Overlander]

I was just more concerned that 200a may cause some problems and the instructions suck on these things. not power wagon specific.

The '200A' is just a high current fuse. If you attach to that point your load will be added to the existing load and if the combined draw more than 200A that fuse will blow. And because of the high current rating of that circuit it will provide no protection for the wire you're running. Better solution would be to come off directly from the battery and use a fuse sized for the load of the steps which is what it looks like you did.

 

[Westwind1124a]

Well I'm glad that I kept the box. these are the biggest pieces of **** I have ever seen. they actually fit worse than my old set. Going to send these back. Don't waste your time

 

[trdt44]

Does anyone know the best place to take power from off the hot side of the battery?

I'm guessing that the 200a is the winch but I've never had so many options. Does it matter?

View attachment 228170

PS. I got these all ready to go and did a dry run with out the motor. yes they are awful. they do not clear on a 4th gen cab still. Shame on me for giving them another chance. I thought that maybe they'd fixed the problem.

View attachment 228367

I assume the instructions are the same for your year where you have to stand and bounce on them. It took me like 15 minutes of doing it per side. I even called customer support and the told me to keep doing it. Mine have been great since I finally got them to clear.

Also I ran power directly to positive battery terminal and to the fender ground junction. That is until I installed the relay/fuse panel later. The kit comes with an inline fuse so you are good.

 

[CheechDogg.0n37s]

Fitment issues and dying motors is why I chose to go with the RBP stealth power running boards instead ... No fitment issues whatsoever ....

 

[olyelr]

Hm, I never would have guessed they would be a poor fit. I thought AMP was the go to when it came to power running boards. But, I have never had a set and never really researched them either. This is the first complaint I have heard about them.

 

[Westwind1124a]

I assume the instructions are the same for your year where you have to stand and bounce on them. It took me like 15 minutes of doing it per side. I even called customer support and the told me to keep doing it. Mine have been great since I finally got them to clear.

Also I ran power directly to positive battery terminal and to the fender ground junction. That is until I installed the relay/fuse panel later. The kit comes with an inline fuse so you are good.

Same thing. I have jumped on them and nothing. ****** me off to have to even try to do this.

I think if jump on them and that works, what you've actually done is cave in the back side of you rocker panel. there just isn't enough play in the linkage to think that that can make a difference.

Fitment issues and dying motors is why I chose to go with the RBP stealth power running boards instead ... No fitment issues whatsoever ....

I was just hopeful that this problem had been fixed. Should have gone RBP too.

Hm, I never would have guessed they would be a poor fit. I thought AMP was the go to when it came to power running boards. But, I have never had a set and never really researched them either. This is the first complaint I have heard about them.

It's a long standing problem with these. I had to take a grinder to the pinch weld on my last truck

 

[Westwind1124a]

.....

 

[retired]

burn me once shame on you burn me twice shame on me .

 

[Westwind1124a]

burn me once shame on you burn me twice shame on me .

Looks like a 3 strikes type situation

 

[bigdodge]

I installed my amps without clearance issues at all. The very first time. I followed the sequence of tightening bolts to the letter on the instructions and wonder if that could be the issue people run into. I was surprised how perfectly they lined up with the pinch weld.

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

 

[Ricks Ram]

I have done 4 or 5 of them on 4th gen trucks. I've only had one that didn't hit the pinch weld. It wasn't hard getting the others to fit by bouncing on them a little. After that they all fit fine and none of them have had any issues since.

Sent from my SM-G981U1 using Tapatalk

 

[Westwind1124a]

I installed my amps without clearance issues at all. The very first time. I followed the sequence of tightening bolts to the letter on the instructions and wonder if that could be the issue people run into. I was surprised how perfectly they lined up with the pinch weld.

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

I have done 4 or 5 of them on 4th gen trucks. I've only had one that didn't hit the pinch weld. It wasn't hard getting the others to fit by bouncing on them a little. After that they all fit fine and none of them have had any issues since.

Sent from my SM-G981U1 using Tapatalk

I followed the instructions word for word. but these are not even close.

 

[mtnrider]

I have the Amp steps on my 2016 and no issues what so ever. Just followed the instructions and I was good to go. Same cab generation so not sure what the problem is on yours, strange?


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