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Manual Gen 4 Ram

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North Carolina
Ram Year
2014
Engine
Hemi 5.7
2014 Ram 1500 Sport 5.7L

After replacing the camshaft and lifters my truck a few months ago I was going into limp mode, but only when the engine was cold. I checked the computer and it showed codes P0016, P000B and the timing changing between -13 and -16° off. The engine ran fine other than the limp mode but now I'm back into the front cover to check the timing for myself and of course my ******* moved the crankshaft independently when I was ******** in the Harmonic Balancer bolt. Now I know for sure the engine out of time as I have no idea where the crankshaft was before I moved it... I did not want to remove the driverside valve cover but I assume that the only way to know if the cam and crank are aligned is to feel cylinder #1 at TDC after I remove the sparkplug. Any other way before I remove it? Also could someone explain how to verify everything is perfectly on time before I finish all this up because last time when I had to remove the camshaft I only relyed on cylinder 1 being TDC and the cam/crank being at 12 and 6.

Also this is my first post so please be gentle uwu~
 

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James OBrien

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5.7 Hermi
You can set/verify the timing at your own risk without pulling the oil pump, the square key will be at the 2 O'Clock position when the upper timing mark is at 12. I did it once because I couldn't get the damn oil pump out with the oil pan on.

This is a good thread to read.

 
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Manual Gen 4 Ram

Manual Gen 4 Ram

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2014
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Hemi 5.7
You can set/verify the timing at your own risk without pulling the oil pump, the square key will be at the 2 O'Clock position when the upper timing mark is at 12. I did it once because I couldn't get the damn oil pump out with the oil pan on.

This is a good thread to read.

I needed to remove the oil pump so that I could see the timing marks in relation to the crankshaft and timing chain and also so I could completely remove the guide to fully loosen the chain. I removed the oil pump by removing the chain tensioner and guide so that I could lift up the left side of the oil pump and reach the bolt holding it down on the bottom, aside from that...
I believe you meant the square should be at 10 o' clock right? Cam at 12 and square at 10. It's not possible for the cam to be at 12 with the square at 2 if the square is on the left of the cam...
Also I've got my crank aligned opposite of the cam at 6. For anyone wondering how I fixed my lack of alignment, first I remove a spark plug from cylinder 1 and put a long narrow object in cylinder so I could see where the piston was without taking off the heads. Then I turned the engine until piston was at TDC and the crank was at 6, this showed that my cam was a little off by about two teeth, remember that if the cam and crank are not aligned there is a risk of bent rods so don't turn it super fast. If you have your heads on there will be some clicks due to the cylinder pressure rising and falling but it IS NOT engine contact if your engine is still turning easily.
I think I'm ready to put this back together, if I said or did anything wrong PLEASE let me know because I would rather learn the easy way that I did something wrong than the hard way.

Cheers (´⊙ω⊙`)
 

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DILLIGAF

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Use a degree wheel and check it. The MMX rebuild video on Youtube is pretty clear on what to do and how to check everything.


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Workinonjunk

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Va
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2003
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I needed to remove the oil pump so that I could see the timing marks in relation to the crankshaft and timing chain and also so I could completely remove the guide to fully loosen the chain. I removed the oil pump by removing the chain tensioner and guide so that I could lift up the left side of the oil pump and reach the bolt holding it down on the bottom, aside from that...
I believe you meant the square should be at 10 o' clock right? Cam at 12 and square at 10. It's not possible for the cam to be at 12 with the square at 2 if the square is on the left of the cam...
Also I've got my crank aligned opposite of the cam at 6. For anyone wondering how I fixed my lack of alignment, first I remove a spark plug from cylinder 1 and put a long narrow object in cylinder so I could see where the piston was without taking off the heads. Then I turned the engine until piston was at TDC and the crank was at 6, this showed that my cam was a little off by about two teeth, remember that if the cam and crank are not aligned there is a risk of bent rods so don't turn it super fast. If you have your heads on there will be some clicks due to the cylinder pressure rising and falling but it IS NOT engine contact if your engine is still turning easily.
I think I'm ready to put this back together, if I said or did anything wrong PLEASE let me know because I would rather learn the easy way that I did something wrong than the hard way.

Cheers (´⊙ω⊙`)
as long as you are at tdc on compression stroke then it will be right. Also that guy who said the square will be at 2 is talking about the key on the crank which is correct. I have done the check at tdc witha stick and had no problems
 
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