Adding Remote Keyless Entry (keyfob lock/unlock) DIY w/ ALFA

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RoadBoss2

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I think if truck has tire monitor , that means you already have a RF Hub antenna.
In a 2009 Chrysler 300 I recover this WIN module, if you have that lil connector besides the main 12 pin connector it means you have antenna for remote door lock . Found my 2008 Magnum has it too ,with basic tire press monitor. (If you have the premium tire monitor there are more antennas all around the vehicle; Antennas that are part of the "Enter-N-Go" package if equipped )WIN module with Antenna (Medium).jpg
 
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Athlium

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I have a friend , she has a plain 2011 with blade keys. I was thinking of adding Fobik for remote entry. I m glad I found this tread. Based on the success of this mod , I wonder if I just add a hood switch and enable remote start as well . Anyone try that ?
you should be able to do the remote start, you would need to get an FOB that has the overlay for the remote start button.

There are a few ways to get the remote start but as I currently do not have it yet, I can't comment on it.
 

bmyfe

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Please help. My OBD link connects on the first screen. but then when i get to the Body Computer Screen it shows Disconnect. Lastly it gives a CAN error. See photos for refernce. 1.jpg2.jpg3.jpg
 
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Athlium

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RoadBoss2

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you should be able to do the remote start, you would need to get an FOB that has the overlay for the remote start button.

There are a few ways to get the remote start but as I currently do not have it yet, I can't comment on it.
I have just enable RKE at the moment I write this. I have the Fobik with remote start button. Will be back shortly with results.
 
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Athlium

Athlium

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I have just enable RKE at the moment I write this. I have the Fobik with remote start button. Will be back shortly with results.
There would have also been a need to install a special cable/harness from the hood latch for the remote start to work.
 

RoadBoss2

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There would have also been a need to install a special cable/harness from the hood latch for the remote start to work.
Yes , I went to salvage yard get the harness and hood Latch/Switch.
After I said hood switch was present , instantly I had a TIPM code saying "Circuit high" confirming system expect a certain continuity regardless of hood state. Switch has a 1000 ohm resistance hood open and zero ohm hood closed. Code went away after I connected harness. On the pic with screw driver , it shows the light gray 16 pin connector on the TIPM. Other pic shows two connector removed , simply for ease of work.I got to read in another post or reply someone saw a wire in the cavity for hood switch signal. This 2011 Ram 1500 "DS" is no exception. I simply replaced it in favor of the "Purple /Lt blue wire that is designated for hood pin signal ,Circled in purple on other picture. The lime green circle is sensor ground wire. Hood switch has to be grounded through that wire. (I try to ground it direct for testing before I complete installation and scanner switch reading was wrong and causing wrong status between open or closed hood. Open hood we could read zero volts on scanner and closed hood was around 1.6 volts on scanner reading.IMG_20221119_152626297_HDR (Medium).jpgInkedIMG_20221119_151409665 (Medium).jpgIMG_20221119_151735630_HDR (Medium).jpg
 
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RoadBoss2

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Despite all my good work , I have enable the Remote start option to "Set"
Installed a proper hood switch with wires ( I can read hood switch status in a scanner)
My remote start function is not working. It just flash park lights once and honk then nothing.
It simply does like if hood was open. I need to find what other condition needs to be met in order to not inhibit the remote starter operation.
-- Could a low tire signal be the cause , similar to check engine light will do on many other vehicles equipped with factory remote start??
Any input well appreciated.
 

RoadBoss2

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Good News !!!
After all I've done , next day went back to my friend's truck. We went and drove it and remote start feature started to work.
In the mean time I read there a sort of "Valet Mode" (like an aftermarket remote start) that will temporary disable remote function until vehicle is driven over 10 mph and/or a certain distance.
So all I did was right , just missing a short drive.
I attached a pdf file explaining some diagnostic tips for remote start.
 

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Patrgrgb68

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2016 Ram tradesman. Ordered fobs recommended by Topgear. When I program on Bess or high line I get these messages but fob doesn’t work.B37BBA71-5D5D-4981-AC26-5E0CD3067E63.jpeg
 

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Patrgrgb68

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Figure it out. Had to use the FOB athlium posted the link for. The one suggested by Topgear did not work.
 

Stever39

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@Athlium Thank you for the instructions! Worked perfect. Total of $100 for odb scanner, 2 keys, and the alfaodb app. Still can't believe a 2016 didn't come with key fobs its wild. Ford Fiestas come with key fobs lol.
 
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Athlium

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@Athlium Thank you for the instructions! Worked perfect. Total of $100 for odb scanner, 2 keys, and the alfaodb app. Still can't believe a 2016 didn't come with key fobs its wild. Ford Fiestas come with key fobs lol.
Glad these instructions are working out for everyone.
 

clbarr0616

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Glad these instructions are working out for everyone.
I just got done following your thread and it worked great.

The only question I have, did you have issues with your tailgate? Mine only locks/unlocks using the key blade. I have the factory back up camera so I am fairly certain I have the proper harness for powered unlock of the tailgate.
 
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Athlium

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I just got done following your thread and it worked great.

The only question I have, did you have issues with your tailgate? Mine only locks/unlocks using the key blade. I have the factory back up camera so I am fairly certain I have the proper harness for powered unlock of the tailgate.
My 2018 has factory back up camera but no harness/actuator for power lock on tailgate. I'm searching for one...
 

DFWRam

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Glad these instructions are working out for everyone.
Thanks! Followed your instructions on my 2011 1500 ST with only minor variations:
Key in RUN position:
Get PIN: Connect to RF Hub – WCM MY2011-12 Nonpowernet Var2 – Connect -- Go to Active Diagnostics Tab – Scroll down to READ PIN

Activate RKE:
Connect to Body Computer – TIPM Central Gateway Module 06-12 – Connect – Go to Active Diagnostics Tab – Scroll down to Car Configuration Change – Vehicle Configuration 2: RKE System Present – Change to SET – Start – Next – See “Procedure Complete”

Program FOBIKs:
Connect to RF Hub – WCM MY2011-12 Nonpowernet Var2 – Connect – Go to Active Diagnostics Tab – Scroll to Program Ignition Keys or FOBS – Insert FOBIK to program and turn to RUN position – Type in PIN – Click Start – Hear 1 chime – Then “Test Success” Repeat for additional FOBIKs

Activate Remote Start:
Connect to Body Computer – TIPM Central Gateway Module 06-12 – Connect – Go to Active Diagnostics Tab – Scroll down to Car Configuration Change – Vehicle Configuration 1: Remote Start Present – Change to SET – Start – Next – See “Procedure Complete”
Connect to Body Computer – TIPM Central Gateway Module 06-12 – Connect – Go to Active Diagnostics Tab – Scroll down to Car Configuration Change – Configurable Inputs: Input 2 (B11) – Set to “Hood Ajar”

Reset WCM: Connect to RF Hub – WCM MY2011-12 Nonpowernet Var2 – Connect -- Go to Active Diagnostics Tab – Scroll down to Reset WCM Configuration – Type in PIN – Select Start – “Test Successful”

I do not have the hood switch wired in my 2011 with the TIPM. Pin 3 in C4 of the TIPM was also showing occupied by a black wire (?). I searched everything but found nothing on this, so I finally cut open the wire harness to see where this wire leads and found it was just capped off inside the wire harness.
I connected a wire to it and grounded it at the fender wall ground. No remote start. Added the 1k ohm resister and remote start is now working too.

Thanks for your instructions!
 
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