Adding Suspension Airline Dryer

dannoonan01

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Michigan, USA
Ram Year
2013 1500 and 2016 Power Wagon
Engine
5.7 Hemi and 6.4 Hemi
I just had an issue with my 2013 Ram Sport. It did the typical suspension freeze up or fault out with the front wheels bottomed out. I had a code for the reversing valve open circuit, which means either ice in the valve or a bad valve. Heat did not help and after seeing the condition of the compressor and valve assembly I just went ahead and replaced it. What a terrible location ! I chose to go with Dorman 949-356XD that comes with the full aluminum enclosure around the compressor and valve body. I found it on Rock Auto for 549.00 and its readily available just about everywhere but this was the best deal I could find and I could get expedited shipping. This is the upgraded compressor too. When I installed the compressor assembly, I went ahead and added two air filter /dryers. One was a descant style inline and the other was a round plastic filter dryer like you would use for a paint gun. I bought them both at harbor Freight. For good measure I secured some green air filter foam (Lawn mower pre filter) around the inlet fitting. The plastic filter dryer is first, then its connected to the descant dryer, then the intake hose to the compressor. There should be no dirt or water getting into this system from the air makeup line!

The Dorman 949-356XD installed easily and was a direct fit. I did find that the air outlet and pressure lines were reversed from the factory. Unfortunately I found this after hours of trouble shooting a low Air Mass issue, and charging and recharging the system multiple times. I knew I had the correct nitrogen pressure (175 psi or 12 bar), but it was not reading in the system according to my scanner. I also suggest using some blue tape to identify your air lines when you remove them. Remove the rear tire and fender well to give your self better access to the compressor and the charging ports.

All said and done it was still an expensive repair. 549 for the compressor assembly, 160 for the tank of nitrogen, 40 for the nitrogen regulator, 15 for the filter dryers. I already had a vacuum pump and A/C Manifold Gauge set. The truck rides great when the system works, and this is the only real issue I have had with it so far and it has 180,000 miles on it which is amazing considering I live in Michigan. It glitched a few times, but it always cured itself. Now that I have the proper re-charging setup, I will purge and recharge the system every year or two. I was tempted to add some air brake anti-freeze in the system but I didn't want to compromise my compressor or valve assembly and I am confident that I got all of the water out of the system, by pulling a vacuum and filling and purging the system with nitrogen multiple times.

If you tackle this repair, take your time and understand how the system works and where the lines go. Make sure the fittings are tight, the plastic lines should not have any movement in the fitting once they are tight. Check your connector pins and hose routing on the new unit, make sure they are routed correctly and no pins are bent.
 

Thunderbucket

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2017 Limited
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5.7 Hemi
1). Just a thought it looks like there is a dryer with desiccant built into the compressor itself… looks familiar , might be worth a try


also seen a old video of a guy putting the desiccant in the oven for 10 mins to dry it out and reuse it.

2). Has anyone tried the doorman product with case?

 

LouM

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Greeenwich/Easton upstate NY
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2015 Ram Ecodiesel crewcab old/ now 2019 Laramie Hemi
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eco diesel old / now Hemi missing the eco's mileage
I suggest reading post #41 in regards to your question 2.
 

JoeYesbut

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Canada
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1). Just a thought it looks like there is a dryer with desiccant built into the compressor itself… looks familiar , might be worth a try


also seen a old video of a guy putting the desiccant in the oven for 10 mins to dry it out and reuse it.

2). Has anyone tried the doorman product with case?

According to Dorman website, there is a dryer built in. I emailed them to confirm the information. According to the same page, the Dorman seems to be higher quality than the Arnott (oem). Plastic piston vs metal piston, for exemple.
 

Carlos Petry

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Wouldn't be good to put some check valves or just regular valves to close when changing the drier cartridge?
 
OP
OP
Xsen

Xsen

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Wouldn't be good to put some check valves or just regular valves to close when changing the drier cartridge?
Yeah, why not. It'd save the trouble of letting the air out of the tanks and pressurizing them back. I'd say a check valve might be installed on the return line that goes to the tanks to let the air go in, but not out. Although this would introduce more couplings into the airlines, so more chances for leaks.
 

Foefame

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Oct 1, 2022
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Location
Ontario
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2016
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5.7
I just had an issue with my 2013 Ram Sport. It did the typical suspension freeze up or fault out with the front wheels bottomed out. I had a code for the reversing valve open circuit, which means either ice in the valve or a bad valve. Heat did not help and after seeing the condition of the compressor and valve assembly I just went ahead and replaced it. What a terrible location ! I chose to go with Dorman 949-356XD that comes with the full aluminum enclosure around the compressor and valve body. I found it on Rock Auto for 549.00 and its readily available just about everywhere but this was the best deal I could find and I could get expedited shipping. This is the upgraded compressor too. When I installed the compressor assembly, I went ahead and added two air filter /dryers. One was a descant style inline and the other was a round plastic filter dryer like you would use for a paint gun. I bought them both at harbor Freight. For good measure I secured some green air filter foam (Lawn mower pre filter) around the inlet fitting. The plastic filter dryer is first, then its connected to the descant dryer, then the intake hose to the compressor. There should be no dirt or water getting into this system from the air makeup line!

The Dorman 949-356XD installed easily and was a direct fit. I did find that the air outlet and pressure lines were reversed from the factory. Unfortunately I found this after hours of trouble shooting a low Air Mass issue, and charging and recharging the system multiple times. I knew I had the correct nitrogen pressure (175 psi or 12 bar), but it was not reading in the system according to my scanner. I also suggest using some blue tape to identify your air lines when you remove them. Remove the rear tire and fender well to give your self better access to the compressor and the charging ports.

All said and done it was still an expensive repair. 549 for the compressor assembly, 160 for the tank of nitrogen, 40 for the nitrogen regulator, 15 for the filter dryers. I already had a vacuum pump and A/C Manifold Gauge set. The truck rides great when the system works, and this is the only real issue I have had with it so far and it has 180,000 miles on it which is amazing considering I live in Michigan. It glitched a few times, but it always cured itself. Now that I have the proper re-charging setup, I will purge and recharge the system every year or two. I was tempted to add some air brake anti-freeze in the system but I didn't want to compromise my compressor or valve assembly and I am confident that I got all of the water out of the system, by pulling a vacuum and filling and purging the system with nitrogen multiple times.

If you tackle this repair, take your time and understand how the system works and where the lines go. Make sure the fittings are tight, the plastic lines should not have any movement in the fitting once they are tight. Check your connector pins and hose routing on the new unit, make sure they are routed correctly and no pins are bent.

I just had an issue with my 2013 Ram Sport. It did the typical suspension freeze up or fault out with the front wheels bottomed out. I had a code for the reversing valve open circuit, which means either ice in the valve or a bad valve. Heat did not help and after seeing the condition of the compressor and valve assembly I just went ahead and replaced it. What a terrible location ! I chose to go with Dorman 949-356XD that comes with the full aluminum enclosure around the compressor and valve body. I found it on Rock Auto for 549.00 and its readily available just about everywhere but this was the best deal I could find and I could get expedited shipping. This is the upgraded compressor too. When I installed the compressor assembly, I went ahead and added two air filter /dryers. One was a descant style inline and the other was a round plastic filter dryer like you would use for a paint gun. I bought them both at harbor Freight. For good measure I secured some green air filter foam (Lawn mower pre filter) around the inlet fitting. The plastic filter dryer is first, then its connected to the descant dryer, then the intake hose to the compressor. There should be no dirt or water getting into this system from the air makeup line!

The Dorman 949-356XD installed easily and was a direct fit. I did find that the air outlet and pressure lines were reversed from the factory. Unfortunately I found this after hours of trouble shooting a low Air Mass issue, and charging and recharging the system multiple times. I knew I had the correct nitrogen pressure (175 psi or 12 bar), but it was not reading in the system according to my scanner. I also suggest using some blue tape to identify your air lines when you remove them. Remove the rear tire and fender well to give your self better access to the compressor and the charging ports.

All said and done it was still an expensive repair. 549 for the compressor assembly, 160 for the tank of nitrogen, 40 for the nitrogen regulator, 15 for the filter dryers. I already had a vacuum pump and A/C Manifold Gauge set. The truck rides great when the system works, and this is the only real issue I have had with it so far and it has 180,000 miles on it which is amazing considering I live in Michigan. It glitched a few times, but it always cured itself. Now that I have the proper re-charging setup, I will purge and recharge the system every year or two. I was tempted to add some air brake anti-freeze in the system but I didn't want to compromise my compressor or valve assembly and I am confident that I got all of the water out of the system, by pulling a vacuum and filling and purging the system with nitrogen multiple times.

If you tackle this repair, take your time and understand how the system works and where the lines go. Make sure the fittings are tight, the plastic lines should not have any movement in the fitting once they are tight. Check your connector pins and hose routing on the new unit, make sure they are routed correctly and no pins are bent.
 

Foefame

Junior Member
Joined
Oct 1, 2022
Posts
5
Reaction score
0
Location
Ontario
Ram Year
2016
Engine
5.7
I just had an issue with my 2013 Ram Sport. It did the typical suspension freeze up or fault out with the front wheels bottomed out. I had a code for the reversing valve open circuit, which means either ice in the valve or a bad valve. Heat did not help and after seeing the condition of the compressor and valve assembly I just went ahead and replaced it. What a terrible location ! I chose to go with Dorman 949-356XD that comes with the full aluminum enclosure around the compressor and valve body. I found it on Rock Auto for 549.00 and its readily available just about everywhere but this was the best deal I could find and I could get expedited shipping. This is the upgraded compressor too. When I installed the compressor assembly, I went ahead and added two air filter /dryers. One was a descant style inline and the other was a round plastic filter dryer like you would use for a paint gun. I bought them both at harbor Freight. For good measure I secured some green air filter foam (Lawn mower pre filter) around the inlet fitting. The plastic filter dryer is first, then its connected to the descant dryer, then the intake hose to the compressor. There should be no dirt or water getting into this system from the air makeup line!

The Dorman 949-356XD installed easily and was a direct fit. I did find that the air outlet and pressure lines were reversed from the factory. Unfortunately I found this after hours of trouble shooting a low Air Mass issue, and charging and recharging the system multiple times. I knew I had the correct nitrogen pressure (175 psi or 12 bar), but it was not reading in the system according to my scanner. I also suggest using some blue tape to identify your air lines when you remove them. Remove the rear tire and fender well to give your self better access to the compressor and the charging ports.

All said and done it was still an expensive repair. 549 for the compressor assembly, 160 for the tank of nitrogen, 40 for the nitrogen regulator, 15 for the filter dryers. I already had a vacuum pump and A/C Manifold Gauge set. The truck rides great when the system works, and this is the only real issue I have had with it so far and it has 180,000 miles on it which is amazing considering I live in Michigan. It glitched a few times, but it always cured itself. Now that I have the proper re-charging setup, I will purge and recharge the system every year or two. I was tempted to add some air brake anti-freeze in the system but I didn't want to compromise my compressor or valve assembly and I am confident that I got all of the water out of the system, by pulling a vacuum and filling and purging the system with nitrogen multiple times.

If you tackle this repair, take your time and understand how the system works and where the lines go. Make sure the fittings are tight, the plastic lines should not have any movement in the fitting once they are tight. Check your connector pins and hose routing on the new unit, make sure they are routed correctly and no pins are bent.
What were the symptoms of the crossed airlines on compressor. I just installed the same dorman compressor and having some difficulty.
 
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