Alaska "wants" on a truck

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Ramm5.7

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The only thing I would add I haven't seen posted is a coolant circulation heater.
In the 20+ years I was there,(albeit on Fords), I used circulation heater, battery blanket, oil pan heater, block heater. This was before all the modern heated seat, mirrors, remote start bells n whistles.
Visiting my relatives in Fairbanks, 40 below and no issues starting my truck in that "this is crazy fu@#ing cold" temp!
As those that live there now have stated....xtra survival gear, good long jumper cables, good tires, good brakes, proper coolant mix for local temps,
Have fun there, its a beautiful place.
##Side note..
189 lb halibut on rod n reel in my brothers 16 ft zodiac rubber boat out of Homer! Pulled us all over for 5 hrs, 4 shots from a 45 and drug it back to the dock listing HEAVILY to port side!!
Fun times..lol
 

sbarron

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Definitely beefy bull bar/brush bar, upgraded lighting, block heater, skid plates and I would even consider a 4inch lift. I'd also get a new battery if yours is near or over 5years old.

Why would the bull bar and/or lift be a necessity?
 

sbarron

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It would be more armor for moose, elk, bear.
Lol... MAAAAAAAYBBEEE if the collision were slow enough, and I mean sloooooooooowwww... but in my experience, it ends up being just one more chunk of scrap to cut out of the way if you hit something that large.

I'm actually not convinced that they wouldn't exacerbate the damage to the frame or substructure due to the fact that you are probably turning a compression load into an axial load as the bull bar gets forced back and up from it's attachment points.
 
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GIJoe2010

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Bull bars are typically just a good spot to add additional lighting and can look aesthetically pleasing.

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Ramm5.7

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Ummm, what he said....lol

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Gero

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Lol... MAAAAAAAYBBEEE if the collision were slow enough, and I mean sloooooooooowwww... but in my experience, it ends up being just one more chunk of scrap to cut out of the way if you hit something that large.

I'm actually not convinced that they wouldn't exacerbate the damage to the frame or substructure due to the fact that you are probably turning a compression load into an axial load as the bull bar gets forced back and up from it's attachment points.

Oh the truck will be scrap if you meet a moose with a brushgaurd. But you'll be a bit safer inside hopefully. That's the main reason for the brush gaurd and lift if it was me.

I'm not a fan of lifting trucks because it limits you in underground parking as well as affects mpg and towing.

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22hemi13

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I’ve run brush guards here in Texas. Never hit a moose.....however even with brush guard you’ll still get some damage somewhere on the headlight or quarter panel. My biggest thing about them is if I hit a deer my radiator is going to survive and I can drive off. Nothing worse than an antler putting hole in radiator :banghead:
 
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jojo2012

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Thanks for everyone's suggestions. I think I have decided to just keep my 2500. It has all the heater "extras" on the interior. It also already has a block heater and a battery blanket. It has good winter/snow tires on it now.I will look into getting an oil pan and transmission pan heater before we get up there. Not for sure if I will be installing a front guard or not. I already have plans to install other lighting on the truck. Now we are trying top decide on how we want to get there.... Through Canada or the ferry. We are thinking of doing a fifth wheel for the trip as we have bigger dogs, so we are slowly ruling out the ferry, but I would also like to bring my guns, but have heard that could be a pain through Canada
 

sbarron

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You can come through with long guns fairy easily.. though AR's or similar can be problematic. Handguns are a different animal entirely and you'll probably need to ship the between FFL's
 

JohnnyMac

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You can come through with long guns fairy easily.. though AR's or similar can be problematic. Handguns are a different animal entirely and you'll probably need to ship the between FFL's

Agree. I just moved south and brought 13 long guns with me down the AlCan. I've gone through multiple times with long guns and actually had more problems with getting back into the USA. Ship/fly all of your handguns and any center fire rifles that hold more than 5 rounds ahead of time and you should be good. I flew down for a visit ahead of the move and brought all my handguns and "sporting rifles" as checked luggage on Alaska Airlines (much cheaper than shipping via FFL) and left them with a family member. There is also a length minimum (18" barrel / 26" overall) mostly directed at AR types and sawed off shotguns so if you have any short barreled rifles/shotguns, check on that.

I'd also recommend as probably the best way to save yourself a lot of heartache, to download the form for transporting firearms and have it filled out (make multiple copies and do not sign it though - must sign it in front of them) so when you pull up to the border, you just declare you have them and hand them the form. They even want BB guns and pellet guns on it. If the border guards have to fill out the form, they will have to hold each gun in their hand and look at the s/n, measure it etc. and will end up being more grouchy about it. That being said, pack them at the back of your trailer/truck/uhaul because they may want to see them anyway and you don't want to unload the entire contents to get at them (they will make you do it - ask me how I know) them make them accessible. I just had my gun safe locked and sitting at the back of the uhaul. They will give you a signed document that allows you to transport through Canada, but the US border guards will also ask for it, so make sure you keep it handy.

The forms are RCMP 5589 & 5590
http://www.rcmp-grc.gc.ca/cfp-pcaf/form-formulaire/index-eng.htm#f5

Good luck! I'm sure between those of us that have driven the AlCan a few times we can answer most of any questions you have about it.
 

boblonben

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I just moved from Alaska a few months ago after living there for 24 years in Ketchikan, Juneau, Kodiak and Wasilla. I'll throw my .02 cents out there....

Much depends on where you are going in AK. The east coast of the lower 48 has worse winter weather than some parts of AK. If you're moving to the Anchorage bowl area, then it gets uncomfortably cold, but they keep the roads pretty clear of snow, lots of street lights and overall it's pretty easy driving. If you're moving to Southeast or Southwest, it gets more rain and less snow/ice, however the issue there is the temp hovers around freezing it'll snow at night, warm up, rain and melt the snow during the day, then cool back down and refreeze the water at night and turn into black ice. That's where you have to watch yourself. Roads are tighter and so driving slower is the ticket.

If you're moving North of Anchorage, then that's a whole different kind of cold. The kind of cold that puts flat spots on your tires for the first 5-10 miles of your drive in the morning. The kind that makes engine oil so thick your starter burns up trying to turn the engine over without a block heater. The kind of cold that will kill you if your car dies out on a lonely road. You'll want to keep a survival kit in the truck with blankets/food/propane heater/ropes/straps/etc no matter what you drive.

Probably the most important options to us were certainly 4x4, a good set of aggressive AT/MT tires, a block heater and a remote start. You'll want to start your car and let it warm up and start clearing ice off the windshield before you drive it in the winter unless you park inside. That being said, if your truck sits out in the parking lot of your workplace all day, a remote start will be your friend.

Anything else is pretty much a luxury, but you will not go wrong with heated seats/steering wheel. Southeast/Southwest are coastal and fairly temperate, and we didn't see much below 20f in those cities as a general rule but Wasilla got pretty cold (-30f) and a non-heated steering wheel will be so damn cold that it'll freeze your skin right to it....like sticking your tongue on a light pole? Leather seats help with durability but unless they are heated, they are rough to sit on in winter.

As far as bumpers and bull bars, I had a bull bar on a couple of my rigs, but in 24 years, never hit a moose/deer/ram/sheep/human. I did hit a black bear once but they're soft and cushy so just dented my bumper and door a little. Moose are big and tall and generally come over the hood and through the windshield. Usually a show stopper. Bull bars are good for extra lighting though, and if you live somewhat remote, a bunch of big LED lights on the front of the truck will help you see the moose quicker.

1500 or 2500 won't matter. I drove both up there and either were fine. Some folks switch religiously to studded tires every winter, but in my years up there I only used studded tires once and probably got stuck more with them. Diesel trucks have their own set of issues operating in such cold weather. I never owned while in AK so can't speak for them.

All that being said, I have seen tons of people that live and work in Alaska getting around with nothing more than a fwd sedan their whole lives. It takes a bit more finesse and occasionally chaining up, but lots of people make do. I personally tried it and I went right back to my truck, but they do a pretty good job of keeping the snow cleared in town and it's certainly doable with most anything you bring up here.

Sorry, I ramble sometimes....Good luck!
Lived in Anchorage for years and your recap is right on. Too many people go all out for stuff they really don't need and often get themselves in trouble because\e they don't know how to use what they have. Buy and use what you know how to use, be careful and safe. Me, I'd do a 1500, no raised suspension, just good winter tires on 17" rims with nice deep wide tread and away ya go. Good luck.
 

iyoung7089

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Depends on where you go, you stated around the Anchorage or Fairbanks area. Two cities separated by about 360 miles and a few degrees in the winter, Fairbanks is colder on the thermo but tend to be very dry where Anchorage is warmer on the thermo but has a lot of moisture. I live In North Pole, 15 miles or so from Fairbanks. This year has been warm but avg winter temps are between -15 to -30 with the occasional few day strings at -30 to -50., saw -30 or colder for 90 days straight one time with a low of -54 during that run. Like many said before; oil pan, transmission pan and block heaters are a must along with a battery tender not a pad or blanket. The next thing to do is get a good auto start not the factory one as they tend to run 10 minutes at a time with the max start of twice before having to put a key in it. The next is arctic grade hoses for you power steering if it’s not the electronic version, the stock hoses blow often so spend the extra cash. Biggest thing is when you get here, get out no matter if it’s cold and enjoy all Ak has to offer, my limit is around -30 on sleds but still get out on the feet to get outside.


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Stefan N

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Here is Sweden Webasto parking heaters are big, And if it was colder here where I live I would have one in the car already! It is just below freezing here for the most part.

 

R.D.J.

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Here is Sweden Webasto parking heaters are big, And if it was colder here where I live I would have one in the car already! It is just below freezing here for the most part.


I've got the coolant Webasto, and the interior air heating Webasto (both really meant for highway tractors) installed in my Cummins 2nd gen. Cant live without them. Im in Kanuckistan, and its frigid here for what seems like half the year.

That said, they DO require maintenance and of course the associated costs with that. Not to mention the initial purchase/install cost. If you plan on being in places where you cant plug the block heater in, these are an excellent solution.
 

OC455

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nice deep wide tread and away ya go

If you are going for a bigger tire in parts of the country that see snow, you are better off with a taller, narrower tire vs. a wide tire. A wide tire in snow will be the same as hydroplaning in water. As suggested, get a more aggressive tread tire A/T or M/T.
 
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