AlfaOBD

[lpennock]

When I clear codes, I keep in the run position?

Yes. Then turn off a let computer go to sleep.

Sent from my SM-T500 using Tapatalk

 

[BJSwizzle]

When I clear codes, I keep in the run position?

They clear, but immediately turns back on

 

[BJSwizzle]

I’ll try again, shut truck off, took out keys, drivers door open, pulled reader, closed door, 5 min timer on lol!

 

[BJSwizzle]

Yes. Then turn off a let computer go to sleep.

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Hmmm error code still comes on

 

[BJSwizzle]

Going to try this setting

 

[fraleywp]

Hmmm error code still comes on

View attachment 249574

You can turn off the diagnostic for most of the lighting. Just search for diagnostic in AlfaODB and find front left and front right.

Turning this off means the vehicle will not tell you when a bulb is out. It also allows you to use LEDs in halogen locations without fast blinking on the instrument cluster. Otherwise not sure what you need to do here.


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[lpennock]

Are You running a relay harness? If so you need to get rid of it an connect directly on each side.

If you are already connected direct, try swapping the low beam between the sides.

 

[Ryno1500]

Are You running a relay harness? If so you need to get rid of it an connect directly on each side.

If you are already connected direct, try swapping the low beam between the sides.

If you change to factory HIDs from quads, you don’t need a conversion harness?


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[ManualCummins]

Hey team, I just had HIDs installed in the low beam, but am getting a bulb out error. I have changed some settings to high intensity discharge lamps to yes and low beam lamps to LED. Still not working, any other options I should change?

View attachment 249570

View attachment 249571

Go in the body computer and turn high intensity discharge no matter what type of light bulbs you have this will make it an unmonitored circuit and get rid of your code

 

[BJSwizzle]

Go in the body computer and turn high intensity discharge no matter what type of light bulbs you have this will make it an unmonitored circuit and get rid of your code

I have done that and still get an error, I tried clearing,even changed one of the vehicle config 3 settings to HIDs, still isn’t clear

 

[BJSwizzle]

You can turn off the diagnostic for most of the lighting. Just search for diagnostic in AlfaODB and find front left and front right.

Turning this off means the vehicle will not tell you when a bulb is out. It also allows you to use LEDs in halogen locations without fast blinking on the instrument cluster. Otherwise not sure what you need to do here.


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I don’t see a setting like that at all?

 

[fraleywp]

It may be the open circuit DTC on your truck. I don’t have that option on my 2021 3500 dually.


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[BJSwizzle]

Ok, will try that.
Any idea why they are labeled as door ajar io:s at alfaobd?

Would this disable the bulb out error I’m getting after putting in HIDs? I’ve changed every possible setting I can think to his/xenon/led, cleared codes, and it still comes on

 

[ManualCummins]

I think it might say door because it probably uses the driver's door being open to start the diagnostic


I've never had an issue where I
Didn't set it to hid and fix it go turn it back off of LED and then just go in there and click vehicle configuration 3 hid

 

[Jimmy07]

Would this disable the bulb out error I’m getting after putting in HIDs? I’ve changed every possible setting I can think to his/xenon/led, cleared codes, and it still comes on

View attachment 249579

Don’t worry about those “door ajar” settings- those only deal with the park/turn signals. As long as VehConfig 3 High Intensity Discharge Headlamps is enabled, and LED low beam setting is disabled, there’s nothing else to be done as far as programming. You have an actual issue that the BCM is picking up on, whether it be with the bulb, ballast, igniter, or current draw. You haven’t mentioned this, but is the passenger side low beam actually lit? When you first turn on the headlights, does the driver side fire right up, and the passenger side kind of lag behind, struggling to fire up? Have you swapped ballasts from side to side to see if the issue follows it?

 

[BJSwizzle]

Just at work at the moment, but I’ll definitely try that out, but I did notice the light does turn on though

 

[DuallyDean]

I found this in a search: https://w06.dealerconnect.chrysler.com/parts/keycode/policypdf/en_US/Key_Code_Policy_en_US.pdf

SEE FOURTH BULLET POINT DOWN. This is straight off FCA DealerConnect

Also pasted below:

Access to vehicle key codes is a necessity for dealers to service their customers and repair vehicles. However it is important to understand that a key code is sensitive information that dealers must protect. The dealership assumes full responsibility for
key code information and agrees to use key code information received from FCA US in a lawful manner and consistent with this Dealer Policy Manual as follows:

Dealers must limit the number of employees with access to the key code application to only those employees having a business need for the information such as service technicians, parts advisors, managers of these departments, and dealer
management. It is the responsibility of the dealer to monitor and update this access as needed.

Key codes must only be used by the dealership for the purpose of servicing vehicles and customers. Key codes must not
be provided to outside entities, including but not limited to locksmiths or repossession companies unless required by court order.
(Please note FCA US allows qualified third parties access to key code information
via Tech Authority).

For all Service Repair Authorization Pin requests, the customer’s information and technician’s name and/or identification number must be documented on the Repair Order.

For all non-Service Repair Authorization Pin requests, each dealership must verify the vehicle ownership by personally reviewing:
The vehicle owner’s government issued picture ID (Driver’s License)
The vehicle's registration or other proof of ownership. Please
note that vehicle registration should have normal markings from the State or Province
that issued the registration.

FCA US
reserves the right to limit and audit dealer requests for key codes.
Violations and non-compliance may result in the loss of key code access.

Has anyone been successful in obtaining the 4 digit PIN from their dealership in 2021? I have a 2018 Chassis Cab that I want to program a couple of the auxiliary switches on the center console. It is my understanding I need the code for that. I went to the dealer with my title and driver's license in hand and they were unwilling at first, then (and after just ordering the aux switch harness kit that normally ships with a new vehicle <bought mine used and it didn't come with it>), the parts counter guy said he could give it to me but it was only good for 24 hours. After reading the link about the difference between 4 and 5 digit PINs, I think he was going to give me the 5 digit one.
I assume the 4 digit one is the "golden key" and once you have it you never need to go to the dealer again to get another "24 hour PIN". Has anyone determined the actual legal rights we owners have to obtaining the PIN? Did FCA change their policy regarding the PINs sometime in the last 2 years?

 

[G-Ride990]

Has anyone been successful in obtaining the 4 digit PIN from their dealership in 2021? I have a 2018 Chassis Cab that I want to program a couple of the auxiliary switches on the center console. It is my understanding I need the code for that. I went to the dealer with my title and driver's license in hand and they were unwilling at first, then (and after just ordering the aux switch harness kit that normally ships with a new vehicle <bought mine used and it didn't come with it>), the parts counter guy said he could give it to me but it was only good for 24 hours. After reading the link about the difference between 4 and 5 digit PINs, I think he was going to give me the 5 digit one.
I assume the 4 digit one is the "golden key" and once you have it you never need to go to the dealer again to get another "24 hour PIN". Has anyone determined the actual legal rights we owners have to obtaining the PIN? Did FCA change their policy regarding the PINs sometime in the last 2 years?

The parts guys are full of ****. The 4 digit pin doesn't change. (on a 2018 at least) They told me and two of my buddies the exact same thing.

One other thing to be aware of, I didn't pay for my PIN for my truck when I got it a couple years ago. But, both of my buddies that got their PIN numbers this year were required to pay something around $10 if I remember correctly. No idea why.

 

[Jimmy07]

Has anyone been successful in obtaining the 4 digit PIN from their dealership in 2021? I have a 2018 Chassis Cab that I want to program a couple of the auxiliary switches on the center console. It is my understanding I need the code for that. I went to the dealer with my title and driver's license in hand and they were unwilling at first, then (and after just ordering the aux switch harness kit that normally ships with a new vehicle <bought mine used and it didn't come with it>), the parts counter guy said he could give it to me but it was only good for 24 hours. After reading the link about the difference between 4 and 5 digit PINs, I think he was going to give me the 5 digit one.
I assume the 4 digit one is the "golden key" and once you have it you never need to go to the dealer again to get another "24 hour PIN". Has anyone determined the actual legal rights we owners have to obtaining the PIN? Did FCA change their policy regarding the PINs sometime in the last 2 years?

The very first sentence of that form says that the pin is proprietary to FCA, so we have no “rights” to it. The letter is just giving dealership permission to give it out (if they choose to do so) under strict guidelines.
Either way, you can get your pin using AlfaOBD now, so the argument is moot. Also, the pin you are referring to is not used for the aux switches. That is a user selected pin for the commercial settings menu, and is 0000 by default.

 

[Jim 11]

Steering Wheel and EVIC Cluster upgrade.

I’ve read and re read the thread covering the proper wiring procedure with the pictures. I still can’t get any of my steering wheel buttons or horn to work. https://get.google.com/albumarchive...Ka247XLaGUNYyujI3Lfg0C3OcBoIh?feat=directlink

2011 Ram 1500 Originally a 4 gauge cluster, no button steering wheel.
Installed a ‘11 or ‘12? Steering wheel with EVIC buttons and Cruise but NO stereo controls.
Installed a ‘11 6 gauge Instrument cluster with 3.5” EVIC


Spliced the two wires on the back of the speedometer cluster.
Cut the two corresponding wires at the plug under the column.
Spliced into the ground and ground it to the metal dash frame.
Used AlfaOBD to turn on the remote steering wheel buttons. (Took many tries before it actually changed it to “set”)
Used AlfaOBD to set TPM to “premium” so the EVIC does show “ok” now instead of “0” on all tires.

I checked and rechecked my splices and connections. All should be good. (Although I haven’t checked continuity or voltage on the lines yet).
The horn will chirp when locking the doors. I can also sound the horn thru AlfaOBD, but no horn when pressing the horn like normal.


[Previous upgrades were adding the NAV stereo. It was plug and play no changes needed in AlfaOBD. Also added the upgraded rear view mirror. Microphone works, but nothing else seems to. Added power drivers seat. It was also plug and play]