ALMOST HAD A WHEEL FALL OFF FOR THE 2ND TIME!!!!

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turkeybird56

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Just to chime in, with all that damage, U best get every STUD replaced, proper size, proper lugs and make sure all the other mods are spec and proper. BUT yer truck. I understand U coming and getting great info here, but I sure hope U R not driving that vehicle till properly repaired. BE Safe..

Added: ANDLER: Something way out of spec for what he has happening. I am not a mechanic nor have a lot of experience on all the new rims, off sets etc. Us late 60, 70 kids did not have these issues to deal with, unless U put on Cragars or Keystones, LOL.. But ne way, he needs to get that vehicle to a reputable shop and repaired properly. All IMHO>>>
 

McBroom

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I purchased a set of used aftermarket rims a few months ago and had my drivers side rim almost fall off last Friday.
The passenger side rim was loose about a month ago too.
Since purchasing the rims I've put the power stop break kit on in addition.
What we found out last night at discount is that the wheel lugs are interfering with the complety flat rear rim surface.
There's a little bulge on the lug against the rotor that you can see in the picture.
Has anyone else had this issue?
The kid at Discount suggested drilling out the rim some, or just retorquing often and over time the wheel will mold to the lugs.
I'm pretty terrified of loosing a rim at this point. :(

Thanks3c211d4df54263dfa1c54bb6d88f0e72.jpg

Do you have a picture of the back of the wheel?


I Love my 18 Ram 2500HD 4x4 CC
Blue Streak Pearl off-road
 

tbone63

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A slight chamfer of the lug holes should not have hurt anything. Too late now I guess.
 

Andler2008

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Added: ANDLER: Something way out of spec for what he has happening. I am not a mechanic nor have a lot of experience on all the new rims, off sets etc. Us late 60, 70 kids did not have these issues to deal with, unless U put on Cragars or Keystones, LOL.. But ne way, he needs to get that vehicle to a reputable shop and repaired properly. All IMHO>>>

lol I'm a 90's kid. I've just had the old cragars on a maverick before, so I have experienced the ridiculous lug nuts for those lol Sadly, I've seen people using the wrong lug nuts before and have some issues with lugs coming loose. It's more of a warning than it is an explanation of his problem. Some people don't even realize that there are different types of lug nuts.
 

Victor Feldman

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I had the issue with the retention clips being left on before i changed the rotors.
I contacted JEGS (where i bought the brake kit from) about the hat as I think thats the issue since the rears don't have this problem. They're going to get a hold of Power Stop.
Thanks for the advise fellas.
The kid wasn't the only one there when it was stated, the Manager and assistant manager were there too!


I was standing in line at an Advance Auto a number of years ago when I overheard a guy asking for a torque wrench big enough to torque something 200 ft lbs. This was from their loan a tool program. The store manager told him that they did not have one that size but to take the 0-150 ft lbs torque wrench and set it to 100 and torque it twice!!.

Being an Army helicopter mechanic is certainly knew better. Yea I jumped in and spoke up.
 

gofishn

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Maybe get out a sledge hammer too, kid got no idea............


Uh, I am sorry but MUST take exception the apparent sarcastic nature of this comment.
Rarely, and I do mean RARELY has getting out the Sledgehammer been poor advice.

Take Heed!
Sledgehammers are God's Gift, to Man, and let's loose the Inner Barbarian, for when one must positively, absolutely, pummel that offending ************* beyond all Recognition.






Shins, Thumbs, Fingers, Knees will usually heal, eventually.
If not, you don't need them, ya got spares.



Not like a *****, of which one only has 'one', making it both Rare and valuable.
 
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spdglez78

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Just to chime in, with all that damage, U best get every STUD replaced, proper size, proper lugs and make sure all the other mods are spec and proper. BUT yer truck. I understand U coming and getting great info here, but I sure hope U R not driving that vehicle till properly repaired. BE Safe..

Added: ANDLER: Something way out of spec for what he has happening. I am not a mechanic nor have a lot of experience on all the new rims, off sets etc. Us late 60, 70 kids did not have these issues to deal with, unless U put on Cragars or Keystones, LOL.. But ne way, he needs to get that vehicle to a reputable shop and repaired properly. All IMHO>>>
I don't have another vehicle and have been needing to do boy scout trailer duty as it is (This past weekend). The new rotors and pads are here, the mechanic will get to it next week. I'm going to compare the depth of the rotor to my factory rotors as I still have those tonight.
I'll let you all know what I find out.
I haven't actually taken a picture of the whole wheel yet.
Thanks

IMG_20181208_140752.jpeg
 

gofishn

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Get new lug studs and have them installed properly.THose are toast.

.
 

gofishn

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I don't have another vehicle and have been needing to do boy scout trailer duty as it is (This past weekend). The new rotors and pads are here, the mechanic will get to it next week. I'm going to compare the depth of the rotor to my factory rotors as I still have those tonight.
I'll let you all know what I find out.
I haven't actually taken a picture of the whole wheel yet.
Thanks

View attachment 149177


Looks like your Ball is too high for trailer tongue.

At rest, the entire Truck/Trailer rig should sit level. Not High Center at the trailer hitch ball.
 
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spdglez78

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Thanks for reminding me about the trailer ball.
I'm going to fix that right now.
I've been meaning to switch my other hitch ball which is a 3.5 inch upwards into a 1.5 inch downwards.
The one that I had during the picture was a straight one.


I compared side by side the factory rotors to the new ones and the are the same in height.
1st picture is front and 2nd is the rear.
I'm curious if the ones we remove have an issue.
We'll find out next week.
78cbe510d7e19d3d7d04d8dc06b37b85.jpg


IMG_20181213_203748.jpeg
 
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sbarron

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I was standing in line at an Advance Auto a number of years ago when I overheard a guy asking for a torque wrench big enough to torque something 200 ft lbs. This was from their loan a tool program. The store manager told him that they did not have one that size but to take the 0-150 ft lbs torque wrench and set it to 100 and torque it twice!!.

Being an Army helicopter mechanic is certainly knew better. Yea I jumped in and spoke up.

I would have had to ask what he was torquing to 200 ft lbs and whether he was sure it wasn't in lbs
 

markusaf81

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Hub Centric rings are not required if you're properly installing the lug nuts when installing the wheel. Hand tighten them down in a star pattern, then torque them down is a star pattern. I've done this on every truck I've ever owned without an issue. Current truck is a 2014 Ram with 22x12 wheels with 325/50 tires. No hubcentric rings.

I’m confused by this post. The reason wheel manufactures sell rings is so they can sell a lot of different wheels that will fit on multiple vehicle applications with only the addition of hubcentric rings. You are essentially buying a “one size fits all” without adding an vehicle specific adapter.

Hubcentric wheels or wheels with the addition of hubcentric rings means that the hub and the wheel studs are sharing the load and the stress of the vehicle. If you are relying just on the studs and lug nuts you are altering the design of the vehicle.

If you do a search on this site, or any other vehicle site that manufactures hubcentric vehicle, you will find hundreds of posts about studs breaking, lug nuts falling off, wheels breaking, vibrations, and so forth. That’s because people are installing wheels that aren’t made for their vehicle.

I think the only way to get around this would be to replace the studs, but lug centeric wheels (not hub centric and not buy the proper rings), and get proper lug nuts.

Can you get away without having any issues if you somehow manage to carefully install your wheels just so that they fit on the hub centered? Yeah probably, but the first hole you hit, first curb you bump into, or the first load you pull or haul will start moving that wheel. The acorn lug or the wheel will eventually shift then start resting on the wheel stud.

Even the OP admitted he had a vibration at higher speeds. Now he’s towing a trailer with wheels coming loose, improperly installed wheels (hubcentric wheels designed to have spacer rings without rings installed), and damaged wheel studs.

Point of the story. Ram designed a truck, put a hub on it with a lip, put a wheel on it that is supported by the hub and held on by lugs, and then handed out payload and hauling specs. By removing the hub support you are simply bolting 2 pieces of metal flushed together, setting a 5,000 pound truck on it, and praying the lug nuts and wheel don’t shift at all while driving. Yes, depending on the wheel material, lug nut material, lug but design, and how you drive you may never encounter an issue.



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rwhjr

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I’m confused by this post. The reason wheel manufactures sell rings is so they can sell a lot of different wheels that will fit on multiple vehicle applications with only the addition of hubcentric rings. You are essentially buying a “one size fits all” without adding an vehicle specific adapter.

Hubcentric wheels or wheels with the addition of hubcentric rings means that the hub and the wheel studs are sharing the load and the stress of the vehicle. If you are relying just on the studs and lug nuts you are altering the design of the vehicle.

If you do a search on this site, or any other vehicle site that manufactures hubcentric vehicle, you will find hundreds of posts about studs breaking, lug nuts falling off, wheels breaking, vibrations, and so forth. That’s because people are installing wheels that aren’t made for their vehicle.

I think the only way to get around this would be to replace the studs, but lug centeric wheels (not hub centric and not buy the proper rings), and get proper lug nuts.

Can you get away without having any issues if you somehow manage to carefully install your wheels just so that they fit on the hub centered? Yeah probably, but the first hole you hit, first curb you bump into, or the first load you pull or haul will start moving that wheel. The acorn lug or the wheel will eventually shift then start resting on the wheel stud.

Even the OP admitted he had a vibration at higher speeds. Now he’s towing a trailer with wheels coming loose, improperly installed wheels (hubcentric wheels designed to have spacer rings without rings installed), and damaged wheel studs.

Point of the story. Ram designed a truck, put a hub on it with a lip, put a wheel on it that is supported by the hub and held on by lugs, and then handed out payload and hauling specs. By removing the hub support you are simply bolting 2 pieces of metal flushed together, setting a 5,000 pound truck on it, and praying the lug nuts and wheel don’t shift at all while driving. Yes, depending on the wheel material, lug nut material, lug but design, and how you drive you may never encounter an issue.



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Exactly

If this guy replaces his rotors but pits wheels back on that aren’t hub centric....then I would ride down the highway with him

With how cheap some hub adapters are I’m just confused why you wouldn’t just get them son you can allow your truck to share the shear forces between the studs and the hubs the way Ram designed. The way you’re running you’re putting 100% of the stress (when you hit bumps at 70mph) on the studs....when it would be wise to have the force distributed to the hub and the studs together

Make sure you get the proper adapters for the wheels/hubs and then make sure you have the proper lug nuts for the wheel (and for the studs) and torque them to spec

And I promise you’re wobbling wheel issues will go away....after you also replace your currently destroyed wheel studs that is
 
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spdglez78

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I have installed the hub rings and new rotors.
I have zero vibration at high speeds now.
The issue is in the rims.
I put the factory rotors back on prior to the new ones and the lugs stick out just as much.
I could have swore there were no clearance issues with the stock rotors but it existed then too.
Now that I've molded the rims to lugs not worried but am considering an 1/8 spacer or something.
Thanks for the advice!
 

indept

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Hub Centric rings are not required ifyou're properly installing the lug nuts when installing the wheel.

The inside of the wheel should be snug around the hub. You shouldn't have just the lugs supporting the weight. If the center hole in the wheel isn't the same size as the protruding hub then you should have a ring to minimize vibration which could be causing the wheel to come loose.
 

Andler2008

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If you say so. 5 different rams, all with different sets of wheels without matching hub sizes tells me different.

Currently running 325/50 M/Ts on 22x12 Hostiles without hub centric rings. Been doing so for about a year. As the tires wore down, they came out of balance. Had them re-balanced and it fixed my issue. Still no rings. I've also never had a wheel fall off in all the time I've had aftermarket wheels. But I guess I'm wrong.
 

droopie85gt

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It looks like the hat on the rotor is too thin. Besides replacing the lugs, you might need to get a thin spacer so the rim lug hole does not bottom out on the shank of the lug.

This looks like the problem. You could probably ream the rear of the wheel out so it clears the lip on the studs. Doesn't look like it would take much. If you go spacer, you need one is hub centric or is thin enough to clear the ridge on the studs, but keep the wheel centered on the hub. You don't want the lugs centering the wheel AND holding it on.
 

sbarron

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The inside of the wheel should be snug around the hub. You shouldn't have just the lugs supporting the weight. If the center hole in the wheel isn't the same size as the protruding hub then you should have a ring to minimize vibration which could be causing the wheel to come loose.

100% correct. The lugs, in fact any bolt, is designed to have MUCH more strength in tension (lengthwise), rather than shear (width-wise).


If you say so. 5 different rams, all with different sets of wheels without matching hub sizes tells me different.

Currently running 325/50 M/Ts on 22x12 Hostiles without hub centric rings. Been doing so for about a year. As the tires wore down, they came out of balance. Had them re-balanced and it fixed my issue. Still no rings. I've also never had a wheel fall off in all the time I've had aftermarket wheels. But I guess I'm wrong.

You are wrong. You've either simply been lucky in your vast 28 years of knowledge or in fact have actually been running at lest some wheels that correctly fit the hub, by sheer accident/luck.

This is the kind of **** that caused this thread in the first place.
 

Andler2008

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100% correct. The lugs, in fact any bolt, is designed to have MUCH more strength in tension (lengthwise), rather than shear (width-wise).




You are wrong. You've either simply been lucky in your vast 28 years of knowledge or in fact have actually been running at lest some wheels that correctly fit the hub, by sheer accident/luck.

This is the kind of **** that caused this thread in the first place.

We don't know what truly caused the issue in the first place. Not everyone is willing to admit that they didn't tighten the lugs properly. Not saying that's what happened, but it does happen.

I still stand by them not being required. I still stand by that they're not the sole cause of OP's issues. Maybe it was an additional variable that could've exacerbated the issue with out of spec brake rotors, but hub centric rings wouldn't have helped if the rotor hat was the wrong thickness.
 
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