Alpine 8.4 wiring diagram.

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Chopper 7

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Hello i'm adding a pair of JL amps and new speakers to my 2015 6.7 2500 CC Ram. The signal for the amps will be summed from the factory amp outputs by an AC LC7i. The factory amp is under the steering column and wiring access is pretty straight forward. I got an amp wiring identification list from Crutchfield that is sort of iffy, there are a couple wire color repeats in my harness. Does any one have a diagram or list I could use to cross reference with what I have.
Sorry if this exists and i'm repeating an older thread but I haven't been able to find it in my searches. Thank you very much.
 

TomT

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You're going to have a hard time getting a full range summed signal from the Alpine. We fought with mine quite a bit before it was finally useable.

Instead of the Audio Control unit, check out the new PAC piece that is basically plug and play. I just redid my system and have the PAC unit (with Toslink adapter) feeding my Mosconi DSP with a digital signal and it works great.

The PAC also gives you easy to use RCA outs that can go to a DSP or amps.

What's the rest of your system plan look like?

Tom
 

crash68

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Factory wiring diagram for the premium sound system...it's for a '15 1500 but probably closer than what you have. 50c9bc82c243d6a9df306224b7d0e9f1.jpgef2c96a391e317756466e58c3d447c10.jpgb996113702a9e5ef5ed95bd88f06ce19.jpg930aac0c88c0143fd73d2d6d8172b7cd.jpg
 
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Chopper 7

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Thanks for the fast reply guys and for the diagrams. I believe the PAC would be a simpler way to go but I put the LC7i in last summer for a RF Prime 500 feeding a JL 10W3 stealth box. Since I have it already I 'de like to see if it will work before going with a PAC or Maestro system.
 

TomT

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Since it's already installed, it can't hurt to try it.

What speakers are you putting in?
 
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Chopper 7

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I'm going with a 6 1/2 component set from Hertz Audio with a JL XD 400/4 and swapping to a XD 600/1 for the sub.
Has anyone whose messed around with a line output converter had to increase the resistance the factory amp sees to keep it working. Had to use a inline resistor.
Also where is the sweet spot for the component tweeter location dash, sail panel, doors up hi or low,?
I'de love to hide them in the dash speaker locations as long as they sound good.
 

TomT

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I had Hertz components for two years in my Ram. The tweeters in the sail panels, mids in dash and midbass in the doors. This placement sounds great and is 90% stealth.
 

Eestee70

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Sail panels are the way to go with tweeters. Ttubbiola what DSP are you using, I,m running a mosconi too.
 

TomT

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Sail panels are the way to go with tweeters. Ttubbiola what DSP are you using, I,m running a mosconi too.

I'm running the 8to12 Aerospace. Still figuring it all out. :)
 

Eestee70

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Nice...I'm using the 6to8 v8. Was considering moving up to the aerospace but don't need that many channels of output. I'm running 7 channels. What type of setup are you running.
 

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I was using a Bit One then decided to go active in the front and needed one more channel. That turned out to be one expensive channel. LOL

I'm running 3 way active fronts with rear fill and a sub. I don't want to clutter up this thread with all the details. I'll be doing a full rundown soon.
 
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Chopper 7

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It took a few weeks to get going on this but here's how it went. I removed the back seat and put a 1/2" piece of MFD 12" deep all the way across it raised the back seat in the process. Now I have plenty of room for the JL amps and electrical do dads. Using the diagram from crash68 and another I spliced out both dash and front door signals down stream of the factory amp by the parking brake. It was very easy to get to and there were signals in both the smaller black harness and the larger white harness, very random. Some trial and error as that particular channels sound would go out as I cut them. Then I spliced those channels back in with the back doors into the factory wiring. That was 12 pairs total with the 2 sub channels all soldered and heat shrinked and taped back up, looks factory under the dash. All wiring was ran to the amp rack to the LC7i 3 input LOC. Dash, front doors, and sub. It created a full range output for the 100/4 (2 channel input mode) and sub channel for the 600/1. I haven't had time to change out the factory dash and door speakers yet but they sound a million times better. My remote bass knob is mounted just below the cigar power port, hated drilling that hole but O well, the 10W3 Is perfect. This was easier than I thought messing around with the factory harness, I didn't need to add any resistors to the high level signals, It took 2 full days in the garage. It sounds the way It should have with the factory "Alpine" system, I'll get the Hertz components in this week.
 

JustinD

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Has anyone had problems with pulling signal from the harness coming out of the screen in the dash? I used a t-harness and spliced out leaving all signal to go on through the system. I’ve completely upgraded everything in truck. Infinity kappa 6x9 components in all 4 doors, 3.5 kappa perfect in dash and roof liner and using the kappa 20cx add on to the comp in front doors to make a three way system and put those in the space in the center of dash. With a lc6i I was summing all to feed the pax h800 processor w/ rux c800 commander. As well as a bunch of amps and subs. My problem is no volume knob control. Also I think I’m having a signal problem. Could use any help thanks
 

TomT

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Has anyone had problems with pulling signal from the harness coming out of the screen in the dash? I used a t-harness and spliced out leaving all signal to go on through the system. I’ve completely upgraded everything in truck. Infinity kappa 6x9 components in all 4 doors, 3.5 kappa perfect in dash and roof liner and using the kappa 20cx add on to the comp in front doors to make a three way system and put those in the space in the center of dash. With a lc6i I was summing all to feed the pax h800 processor w/ rux c800 commander. As well as a bunch of amps and subs. My problem is no volume knob control. Also I think I’m having a signal problem. Could use any help thanks

Step 1 - ditch the LC6i and get a Pac Audio AmpPRO CH-41 to use in place of it. You don’t need any wire taps, harnesses or splices.
 

JustinD

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Step 1 - ditch the LC6i and get a Pac Audio AmpPRO CH-41 to use in place of it. You don’t need any wire taps, harnesses or splices.
Is there anything I can do in the meantime to get volume knob control back? I forgot to mention all speakers are rewired directly to aftermarket amps. So all factory wiring is disconnected but left in place. Was left connected where I spliced in for signal tho. So maybe a load problem in data bus?
 

TomT

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No idea, the volume data is sent from the knob to the Alpine amp over CanBus.
 

Brandon Miller

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Did anyone figure out the volume control issue? I did an install for a buddy and everything is fine, but I have no volume control to the subwoofer. Just the factory speakers have volume control, not the sub. It just stays off or on depending on the vehicle being off or on.
 

Brandon_blh

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TomT,

How do you connect the Pac Audio AmpPRO CH-41? I'm relatively new to all of audio upgrades but I'd like to learn it so that I can do it myself. Anything that is less invasive, is the way I want to go. Looking for any recommendations. I'm currently stock Alpine 9+sub. Would like to add sub, amp and upgrade the speakers but not real sure where to start. Any help or recommendations would be greatly appreciated. Thank you
 

Draketheduck

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Did you put your loc behind the radio or under the seats. That diagram is blurry asf. And trying to figure out an accessory power. And ground situation for the loc.
 
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