Alternator Issues?

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TheEnder

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Hello everyone! Hope y’all are doing well today. It’s been rainy here!

So, i’m wondering if anyone could help out with an issue i’m having with my truck that’s been getting worse for the past few months.

I have a 2013 1500 with the 4.7L/65RFE and as of the past few months it’s been shifting horrifically slowly/bad as some of you may know.

Around July or so, i noticed that the transmission would click decently loud when shifting into 4th gear. Didn’t feel a thud or anything, it just clicked. I have looked all over the vehicle and have done everything i can think of to diagnose this and i can’t find the issue. This symptom was the same across 2 transmissions.

Now, as of recently, this clicking has gotten worse and is now heard across all gears and when hitting the gas when costing down in speed. This really doesn’t bother me that much though. On to the real issues.

Now, a month ago, i noticed a very electrical whine coming from around the same area as the clicking was, from the left side fender area. It’s very noticeable around 1K-2K RPMs and is heard within every gear. At this time i was running at about 13.2 charging volts, keep this in mind.

I decided to take a look at the alternator and saw that the plastic cover on the alternator screw was melted onto the stud, so i took it off (with the battery disconnected) and cleaned it along with all the grounds on the vehicle with sandpaper. This made my voltage shoot up to where it’s supposed to be (14.2-14.5) but the whine got decently worse and the trans began to shift even softer than it was before.

Last week i went on a drive late at night and got stuck in some mud, and since it’s a 2wd i had to floor it out of it. When i floored it, the gauge cluster lights dimmed, the radio dimmed, and the headlamps dimmed majorly. This has been happening more frequently since.

Before this, the trans was shifting okay, not great, but it was slow and the truck sucked gas and had very little performance. This led me to believe that it was an engine performance issue causing all my issues, so i gapped the plugs (they weren’t within specs, far out of it to be honest) and i got all performance back and fuel economy went up to what my 300 is and to what my new V6 1500 is. But it still didn’t fix the shifting issue.

I’ve ran atleast 10 quicklearn which result in the truck shifting pretty okay for a few miles and then going back to crap. Occasionally the trans will shift absolutely perfectly though.

I’ve ran test after test on it, line pressure meets desired line pressure, CVIs are far within range (posted below) and there seems to be nothing wrong with the health of the trans but it’s like the truck doesn’t know what the hell it’s doing.

1-2 is perfect. 2-4 takes nearly 6 seconds to complete. 4-5 takes 5 seconds to complete. 5-6 takes 5 seconds to complete as well.

The charging voltage is everywhere, it jumps from 14.0 to 14.5 consistently. Sometimes it randomly drops to 12.3, and regarding this, my TPS is starting to act up on it now, and it felt like the engine was nearly about to stall and then it surged in park.

Any help on this? I’ve heard some prominent members say that charging voltage thats not good can cause all of these, but i wanna make sure before i change out the alt again.

Thank you to anyone that decides to help in advance.


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TheEnder

TheEnder

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CVIs:

2C Clutch Fill Volume Index: 48
4C Clutch Fill Volume Index: 39
LR Clutch Fill Volume Index: 64
OD Clutch Fill Volume Index: 51
UD Clutch Fill Volume Index: 52


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indept

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How many miles? The fact that you had a melted terminal isn't normal. And that the charging voltage is fluctuating like that isn't good. Check the grounds and connections between the alternator & battery including the starter connections. If all is good then I would suggest that you have the battery load tested. If that's good then the alternator is most likely the issue.
 
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TheEnder

TheEnder

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How many miles? The fact that you had a melted terminal isn't normal. And that the charging voltage is fluctuating like that isn't good. Check the grounds and connections between the alternator & battery including the starter connections. If all is good then I would suggest that you have the battery load tested. If that's good then the alternator is most likely the issue.

498K, and yes, it isn’t normal. Checked grounds etc and everything looked good. I had the battery checked around a week ago and the health of the battery was good.


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NJMOPAR

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Maybe at almost half a million miles it's time to move on. You've gotten your money's worth.
 

indept

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498K, and yes, it isn’t normal. Checked grounds etc and everything looked good. I had the battery checked around a week ago and the health of the battery was good.


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Then the alternator is going bad, at that mileage the brushes are probably shot.
They just don't make'm like they used to...:D
 
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TheEnder

TheEnder

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Maybe at almost half a million miles it's time to move on. You've gotten your money's worth.

I already have, just trying to fix her up as i have a deep sentimental connection to the truck.


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jws123

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498K, and yes, it isn’t normal. Checked grounds etc and everything looked good. I had the battery checked around a week ago and the health of the battery was good.


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Jus wonderin How does one get 498k on a truck? the fk are u driving ahahaha:D
Also i would def replace alternator it can cause all kinds of funky issues if voltage is jumpy.
 
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TheEnder

TheEnder

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Jus wonderin How does one get 498k on a truck? the fk are u driving ahahaha:D
Also i would def replace alternator it can cause all kinds of funky issues if voltage is jumpy.

Spent most of its days being religiously serviced, if not by me then by a dealer. It’s been all over the US, all over Canada, etc.

I’m surprised the engine has as much power as it does still, i guess that’s what happens when you do 3K oil changes.


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TheEnder

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Anyways, last night i hit the alternator (i know, not very smart) with a hammer because i kinda got mad at it.

Didnt make a bit of difference but i felt as though the whining got slightly better.

Does anyone know how the terminal protector could’ve melted?


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crackerjack1957

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Loose or corroded connection somewhere that causes increased resistance which can equate to heat. Perhaps the connection problem is inside the alternator somewhere.
 

NJMOPAR

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The Bakolite terminal protector is probably melted on the inside of the housing too. Bits could've gotten into the shaft bearings giving your whine.
I'd just get a new one & maybe the cable too.
 
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TheEnder

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The Bakolite terminal protector is probably melted on the inside of the housing too. Bits could've gotten into the shaft bearings giving your whine.
I'd just get a new one & maybe the cable too.

I have a new alternator on the way, but i’ve found more strange things that are occuring.

After a PCM reset, not a quicklearn, by unplugging the battery and leaving the keys in the ignition for a few hours and driving the truck afterwards results in the truck driving perfectly for a few days, as in the trans shifts beautifully and then on the 4th or 5th day it just reverts back to being ****. I’ve also noticed that the compressor (A/C) kicks on with the blower off and when the engine is off that there’s a slight hissing from the passenger side of the engine for a few minutes and then it goes away.

We will see i guess.


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NJMOPAR

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Hissing sounds like an AC leak. Perhaps you disturbed a hose while working on the PCM?
Seems computer related to me, the fact it runs ok after a reset then goes south again.
 
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TheEnder

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Hissing sounds like an AC leak. Perhaps you disturbed a hose while working on the PCM?
Seems computer related to me, the fact it runs ok after a reset then goes south again.

Yeah, i think the A/C thing is a disturbed hose but i’ll check on it later. I need to figure out the PCM issue if the new alt doesn’t fix it.


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Octane

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Replace alternator.Low or high output creates problems.Electronics are sensitive to volt/ amp changes.
 
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TheEnder

TheEnder

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Replace alternator.Low or high output creates problems.Electronics are sensitive to volt/ amp changes.

Yeah, that’s probably the issue then. It’s jumping from 12 to 14.


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Octane

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Yeah, that’s probably the issue


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.12.3 to 14.7 is not unusual.I had alt. overheating when it charged much over 15.2. Only occasionally would it hit over 15 but it got hot quickly when it did.Those cheap diodes that they use will fail and have been known to cause fires even back in 2012 and up 5.7 alternators. I had mine replaced under a recall once.
 
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Octane

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A pcm cannot rectify an over or undercharging alternator tho. Only within the normal preprogrammed parameters can it make any variances based on normal loads. Similarly to an internal or an external voltage regulator.As far as my experience/ knowledge goes anyway
 
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