Another can I tow this. Lol

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dragrazor

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Before asking the question, know that I have read quite a bit and I believe I am fine but I wanted to hear it from the experts here or at least people with more knowledge than me. I understand that the best thing to do is weigh both vehicles but the scales are not easily accessible.
2019 Ram warlock 4x4 5.7 hemi 5’7” bed. 8040 tow rating, 6900 gvwr, 1390 payload capacity, 13800 gcvwr

2021 Gulf Stream vintage cruiser travel trailer, 26 total ft, 4180 dry. 2140 max cargo, 420 hitch weight, 6060 max Total weight allowed.
I have Timbrens and a fast way e2 distribution hitch with sway control.

towed it dry and it stayed in 6-7th gear, mostly 7th, sometimes 8th. Temps were 208-212 water, 218-226 oil, 183-190 trans. Variables were uphill, downhill. When I go on my first camping trip, the Added weight to the trailer I would assume will be around 500-600 Pds.Tow vehicle will have 3 occupants(400pds) and maybe 100pds in the bed.

Am I good? Thanks in advance. Let me know if I forgot something.
 

Justthebutler

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Before asking the question, know that I have read quite a bit and I believe I am fine but I wanted to hear it from the experts here or at least people with more knowledge than me. I understand that the best thing to do is weigh both vehicles but the scales are not easily accessible.
2019 Ram warlock 4x4 5.7 hemi 5’7” bed. 8040 tow rating, 6900 gvwr, 1390 payload capacity, 13800 gcvwr

2021 Gulf Stream vintage cruiser travel trailer, 26 total ft, 4180 dry. 2140 max cargo, 420 hitch weight, 6060 max Total weight allowed.
I have Timbrens and a fast way e2 distribution hitch with sway control.

towed it dry and it stayed in 6-7th gear, mostly 7th, sometimes 8th. Temps were 208-212 water, 218-226 oil, 183-190 trans. Variables were uphill, downhill. When I go on my first camping trip, the Added weight to the trailer I would assume will be around 500-600 Pds.Tow vehicle will have 3 occupants(400pds) and maybe 100pds in the bed.

Am I good? Thanks in advance. Let me know if I forgot something.
You'll be ok.

The gvwr is what the manufacturer figures everything will weigh; Truck, Passengers, Fuel and payload.

If the truck is 6,900, Your trailer will be roughly 5,200; your still only at 12,100 of the 13,800 gcvwr. However if you ever had to tow with your Gray and Black full you would be close to or right at the max.

The hitch and the Timbrens are great for a solid tow. If you ever end up with some sag, airbags will eliminate that.

Your temps are normal for towing and wont change too much unless your really pushing the truck hard going up a decent grade.


(I haul a 29foot up and down the Coquihalla Highway in British Columbia every summer and my 5.7 has been solid!)

Hope that helps, enjoy your camping season!

Camping shrunk down.JPG
 
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crash68

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When I go on my first camping trip, the Added weight to the trailer I would assume will be around 500-600 Pds.Tow vehicle will have 3 occupants(400pds) and maybe 100pds in the bed.
don't assume, set up your WDH with the truck and trailer fully loaded. If your RV dealer "set it up for you" they lied to you.
 

09SilverRam

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Hitch weight will be higher than that 420 number with propane tanks, trailer loaded, and the weight of the WDH.

Looks like you will be fine but you will want to scale it to get the WDH dialed in.
 

crash68

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towed it dry and it stayed in 6-7th gear, mostly 7th, sometimes 8th. Temps were 208-212 water, 218-226 oil, 183-190 trans.
Also use the Tow/Haul mode when towing, probably won't see 8th unless your going real fast or going downhill. Use the recommended 89 octane fuel to keep the engine from pulling timing due to knocking.
The coolant temps can push into the 220s, oil temps close to 260 and the trans can float into 220s also. The engine and transmission can handle these temps and if your at these higher levels just back off the speed, your towing a trailer not in a race to get there first.
 

CamperMike

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You picked a reasonable size trailer for your truck. Very close in size and weight to what I tow. You will probably be very near your trucks gvwr with your stuff and people. The loaded tongue weight will probably be 700lbs or more so you will be pushing up against your trucks cargo capacity. But if you load the trailer properly you should be able to make it work. I tend to put a lot of things in the trailer for travel and don't put super heavy things in the trailer's front storage.
On another note, in warmer weather you may see higher oil temps. 240 plus is not uncommon, 250 if pulling a longer grade. Slowing down trends to help it drop back.
 

dhay13

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Agreed with most above. Actual tongue weight will likely be closer to 600-700lbs. Someone above said passengers don't mean anything? Unless I'm misunderstanding their post, yes they do. They count towards payload. When towing I would be more concerned with GRAWR. Should be about 3900lbs for your truck. Scale it loaded and make sure you aren't over that. And most truck stops have CAT scales. Download the app on your phone and you don't even need to get out of your truck. Weigh it once without the trailer then again with the trailer and that will give you all the weights you need.
But I agree, I think you will be ok but heck to be sure.
 

GTyankee

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Moving Companies, ie : Atlas & , Mayflower
Often have Public Scales

If you don't need a Certified weigh Sheet, & they are not busy, they will often not charge you.
I have given the Weigh Master at Mayflower a tip for weighing my last Ram.
I left it on his desk as i walked out
I had a hand written weight slip to keep with my insurance papers
 

gofishn

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You have received terrific advice. Listen to it.
Only thing I would add is if going with air bags, use a seperate air line, for each bag. Do not share an air line asn this allows air to travel, form one bag to the other bag, when stressed. WHich, is the exact worst moment for this to happen AND defeats the purpose of the air bags.

I prefer tuftruck springs, first and always, then better shocks, then air bags.

I think Timbrens are a complete waste and gimmick, at best.
IF not oloaded beyond OEM SPrings and shcoks limits, timbrens will hardly ever be actually engaged, stricking the axcle, or resting on it, under a laod or over a bump.
BUT
Let take it further, if too much payload for the OEM springs, then the timbrens will ride on the axle, essentially removing the springs an dshock form teh equation. Only when road conditions cause a bounce and allows timbrens ot lift ooff the axle, would the suspensions engage, until the payload forces the timbrens back on to the axle with a spne jarring how ya doing m8ee. While it will hurt yoru spine, liek heck, think about what its doing to your axle.

You know, the part that runs your tires and makes your truck, go.

That;s why upgrade the springs, first.
then shocks.
then, air bags
then tires

keep each element of the suspensions s oit can function, as designed, just improving each components capabilities.
I want to avoid bumpstop hitting, or worse, riding , on the axle or, in the case of an axles-less tiny trailer, the half axle.

My understanding, is the weakest link, on our 1500's is a pin, inside the axle, that holds the half axles, in.
It's what limits our payload, more than any other. That pin can only handle "X" stress and once e assembly
whatever trim level and options one gets, minus that weight from the pins limits gives you the payload.

agaian, my undersanding and Lord know, i could wewll be wrong.


I doubt you tongue weight will be 420#. Read someone suggested 600#.
Think that is far more likely and would even go as high as 750#.

how the trailer is loaded is paramount to the tongue weight number.

which is why we so often suggest getting weighed at a CAT scale.
They are , literally, everywhere.

WIll try to find the methodology for gettng accurate numbers.

cannot remember it, off hand but its only 3 or 4 weighs.

If you ahve not yet purchased a WDH h itch, then research them.
A quality wewight distributing hitch can be a lifesaver.

Also, head over to youtube and do soem research.
Let me get you started;







Full Disclosure:
I positively LOVE the Equal-Z-er. any of the top 3 are oging to be terrific. Have used a bunch of variations over the decades adn love the Equal-z-er but, you, do you.


If you do not have a ton of towing experience, then go slow.
Towing is 99% sheer boredom.
It's those 5 seconds of HOLY CRAP WE ARE GOING TO DIE that you prepare for.

N one knows hwo they will do until they;ve actually done it.
BUT
setting your truck up is most of it.
set yoru truck adn trailer to succeed, not fail.

Saw a guy towing a trailer and he was squating horribly.
Unsafe. everythign was set up incorrectly.
I pull up beside him, roll my windows aand asked him to pull over and i would give him some pointer and explain things.

His reply was classic.

I've been towing for 20 years, 5 with this rig and I think I know what I am doing.

Me, being me, replied, next time you are at a campground, go
find the guy towing the biggest trailer, but towing it level and ask him,
if you are doing it, right, because anyone who knows how to do it,
can tell, with just glance, you sure as shirt, do not.

Get advice.
Ask other campers at the campgrounds.
Have someone show you how to setup yoru hitch, weigh your truck adn trailer
organise your trailer liek you would a toolbox or garage workbench, think about it and trail and error will get you there.
 
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ramffml

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I think Timbrens are a complete waste and gimmick, at best.
IF not oloaded beyond OEM SPrings and shcoks limits, timbrens will hardly ever be actually engaged, stricking the axcle, or resting on it, under a laod or over a bump.
BUT
Let take it further, if too much payload for the OEM springs, then the timbrens will ride on the axle, essentially removing the springs an dshock form teh equation. Only when road conditions cause a bounce and allows timbrens ot lift ooff the axle, would the suspensions engage, until the payload forces the timbrens back on to the axle with a spne jarring how ya doing m8ee. While it will hurt yoru spine, liek heck, think about what its doing to your axle.

Timbrens are progressive. As you add more weight they push back harder, just like the progressive coils in our truck.

The advantage of Timbrens is they are completely unnoticable when not towing whereas changing out your stock shocks and springs definitely change the ride. They also only take 10 seconds to install and that can be done by anyone agile enough to crawl.

Some might prefer that approach especially if they're not towing all that often.
 

gofishn

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Timbrens are progressive. As you add more weight they push back harder, just like the progressive coils in our truck.

The advantage of Timbrens is they are completely unnoticable when not towing whereas changing out your stock shocks and springs definitely change the ride. They also only take 10 seconds to install and that can be done by anyone agile enough to crawl.

Some might prefer that approach especially if they're not towing all that often.

Agree, to a point.

No matter the brand, Bumpstops are made of hard material, which will compress,
ONCE they are physically riding on the axle.

that is what I want to avoid. yes, ride will change with upgrading springs shocks tires.
|So too will ride change when timbrens are the only thing absorning road imperfections. change a lot more drastically and be much harsher on both teh driver and the truck, that is what i suggest avoiding.

If only towing occasionally justification, is not a justification, at all.
May as well do nothing and let the front tires barely skim the pavement.

Do the job, that needs doing, or don't do the job, at all.
Rationalizations tend to be Self-Delusions.
They are called Bump Stops.
They, sure as heck, do not smooth out the roadway.
Repairign all potholes, cracks and upheavals.
The bumps do not, miraculously, go away.
The truck simply stops jumping up, and down, and those bumps now go through the truck, and you.

FWIW, OEM Ride springs are an option and still give 35% load increase.
Any change to shocks or tires will, defintiely, affect ride.
Not so, with Tuftruck 35%, progressive rate, springs.

OP asked for advice.
I am sorry, that my advice, is different than yours.

In the end, each of us, must do, what we think is best, for us.
I am very glad, what you do, works for you.
 

ramffml

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Agree, to a point.

No matter the brand, Bumpstops are made of hard material, which will compress,
ONCE they are physically riding on the axle.

that is what I want to avoid. yes, ride will change with upgrading springs shocks tires.
|So too will ride change when timbrens are the only thing absorning road imperfections. change a lot more drastically and be much harsher on both teh driver and the truck, that is what i suggest avoiding.

If only towing occasionally justification, is not a justification, at all.
May as well do nothing and let the front tires barely skim the pavement.

Do the job, that needs doing, or don't do the job, at all.
Rationalizations tend to be Self-Delusions.
They are called Bump Stops.
They, sure as heck, do not smooth out the roadway.
Repairign all potholes, cracks and upheavals.
The bumps do not, miraculously, go away.
The truck simply stops jumping up, and down, and those bumps now go through the truck, and you.

FWIW, OEM Ride springs are an option and still give 35% load increase.
Any change to shocks or tires will, defintiely, affect ride.
Not so, with Tuftruck 35%, progressive rate, springs.

OP asked for advice.
I am sorry, that my advice, is different than yours.

In the end, each of us, must do, what we think is best, for us.
I am very glad, what you do, works for you.

I'm not suggesting your advice is wrong. I'm saying there are pros and cons to both approaches.

And even those who tow occasionally can benefit from more stability from timbrens. The timbrens have about 3/4+ of an inch of clearance unloaded, you'll never feel them in use unless you're driving like an animal.

The timbrens are a good option, that's all I'm saying.
 

rmill

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I too have E2 and Timbrens. Tow a 6100lb/30ft with NO Problem. Love them both. Great advice through out, only thing I would add is if you are going to be running with water (not dry) would invest in a Sherline Tongue scale to see exactly what is hitting your payload. Good luck!
 

Justthebutler

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Only thing I would add is if going with air bags, use a seperate air line, for each bag. Do not share an air line as this allows air to travel, form one bag to the other bag, when stressed. WHich, is the exact worst moment for this to happen AND defeats the purpose of the air bags.
100% agree with this.

I had mine plumbed together and quickly put them on separate lines. Its much easier to inflate one bag vs both, and you can also adjust them for uneven weight.

Also as a side note, before I installed on-board air; I used to keep a really good hand/foot pump for a bicycle under the backseat just in case.
I still keep it there actually along with spare fittings, line and a core tool. :hahano:
 

62Blazer

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You shouldn't have any problems at all. Personally never used scales to set my tongue weight and rather just used a combination of what looked reasonable in regards to squat and then what the truck actually felt like driving. I worked construction and on a farm when I was young and towed numerous loads with different vehicles over the years. If pulling something like a skid steer loader on a flatbed you would pull it up until you got a decent squat on the truck and go. While the advice above is all good and absolutely nothing wrong with it, people also tend to put too much thought into it and make it a bigger deal than what it really is on the good ol' 'net. Keep in mind the difference of 50 or 100 lbs. of tongue weight isn't noticeable.........think about it, if you put a few bags of water softener salt in the the bed of your truck do you really notice any difference in how it handles? Do you ever tell your 3 big buddies they can't hop in the back seat of your truck because the weight is too much, or do you go and adjust tire pressures or install air bags for that? I mean, really.....
Yes, LARGE differences in tongue weight and load distribution make a difference. That is the normal disconnect on forums because people don't differentiate between large and small weight differences. They make any weight difference a big deal.
 

jh90731

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I agree with others that eliminating squat is beneficial but not at the expense of hiding an overweight and out of spec condition. As others have suggested, take it to a scale when you have it fully loaded with your planned gear and make sure it's in spec's. Here is the link to the towing chart for your year RAM. When in doubt refer to this as this is what authorities will refer to if there is ever an accident and they suspect an overloaded vehicle is at fault.

 

Ratman6161

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I agree with others that eliminating squat is beneficial but not at the expense of hiding an overweight and out of spec condition. As others have suggested, take it to a scale when you have it fully loaded with your planned gear and make sure it's in spec's. Here is the link to the towing chart for your year RAM. When in doubt refer to this as this is what authorities will refer to if there is ever an accident and they suspect an overloaded vehicle is at fault.

Just an FYI, according to the owners manual for both my ram 2500 and the sierra 1500 I had previously, rear end squat is not what you are supposed to measure when setting up your hitch. The measurement they focus on is rise at the front axle. They say to adjust the weight distributing hitch to take back half of the rise. For example, if hooking up the trailer without the weight distribution bars causes the front to rise by 2 inches, adjust the hitch such that the rise is reduced to one inch with the bars.

I bring this up because these threads seem to always zero in on rear axle squat without mentioning the front axle.
 

2003F350

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Just an FYI, according to the owners manual for both my ram 2500 and the sierra 1500 I had previously, rear end squat is not what you are supposed to measure when setting up your hitch. The measurement they focus on is rise at the front axle. They say to adjust the weight distributing hitch to take back half of the rise. For example, if hooking up the trailer without the weight distribution bars causes the front to rise by 2 inches, adjust the hitch such that the rise is reduced to one inch with the bars.

I bring this up because these threads seem to always zero in on rear axle squat without mentioning the front axle.
It's a good point, and those measurements will get you VERY CLOSE to being back where everything belongs. The only way to truly dial it in is with a scale. I have personally had enough experience over the years to know when it's pretty darn close.
 
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