Another Parasitic Battery Drain Issue, I Need Help!

[BrokeRam]

2010 Dodge Ram 1500 5.7 quad cab. The issue started with what I thought was a weak battery. Replaced the battery and had no issue for a couple of months. Then I let the truck sit for 4 days and the truck will not start. Two weeks later the battery drains overnight. Battery drains down to approximately 4 volts.

The intermittent draw on the battery with everything started off around 3.2 amps. When the truck is not drawing 3.2 amps, loads hover around .1 to .250 amps. I have been dealing with this issue for about 5 months with 4 months at the dealership. The dealership gave up and stopped trying to fix the truck. Truck has a lifetime bumper to bumper warranty from FCA, FIAT CHRYSLER AUTOMOBILES. I had to buy some parts out of pocket and try to get reimburse by FCA. The dealer would not buy used parts because some of parts are no longer sold by dodge. FCA says the dealer has the form for me to be reimburse, the dealer says they don't have them. I am tired of dealing with both the dealer and warranty people. I am out of ideas and need help. I have read every thread online about this and still can't figure my problem out. Everything is factory on the truck no aftermarket mods, except for the radio which was installed last week. So while its a lifetime warranty it still costing me to fix the issue.

Here is what I know so far, measured with a fluke 376FC clamp meter .x amp or a fluke 117 for .*** amps


Battery 6 months old 800cca tested by 4 independent shops, test ok.
Soft/hard reset with battery cables tied together, no help.
PCM/ECM unplugged 4 plugs no help.
Removed hood light, no help
Disconnected Amp, no help
Disconnected subwoofer, no help
Glove compartment light verified to work properly.
Removed M39 fuse IOD radio, the intermittent draw drops down from 3.2 to .8 amps. Factory radio replaced with another factory radio no change. Replaced factory radio with aftermarket radio, intermittent amp draw now around .8 amps. I believe something is waking up the radio and the aftermarket radio does not respond. You can hear the factory radio (both used and old) cycling when the amp draw spikes.
Removed M38 fuse IOD CCN/interior mods, load drops from .8 to .044 amps measured from battery terminal. Battery remains charged if removed. Amperage load measured across the fuse is about .2 amps.
Removed M34 fuse BAT CCN/interior light/SCM sw bank, load drops from .8 to .044 amps measured from battery terminal. Battery remains charged if fuse removed. Amperage load measured across the fuse is about .7ish amps. Yes the interior lights are off. This circuit I believe has the remaining load on it.
Cluster removed and not reinstalled, no amp draw battery stays charged.
Cluster replaced with used one, no help still drains the battery.
Clockspring replaced, no help.
Removed power lead to TIPM module battery stays charged.

Parts replaced so far.
Factory radio(used) no change, see above.
Clockspring (new) replaced, no help.
Instrument cluster (used), replaced no help.

Anyone have an idea what is on the M38 and M34 circuit? I believe the CCN is built into the instrument cluster and the clockspring is the SCM. What else could be waking up the truck....TIPM? Door module, pulled the J07 and J03 (door nodes) fuses ampraged still spiked.

I have not tested the TIPM module and don't want to spend another 600-1000 buck on a guess. Dealer says the TIPM was replaced in 2017 but I don't believe them as the case has a 2010 date on it. Anyone have any information on how I can test mine. Everyone I called only wants to sell me a rebult or new unit even if they list repair services. I can hit the tipm with a rubber mallet (firm but not hard!) and the amperage will spike to .8 amps maybe five out of ten times. I was able to do same with the PCM/ECU, but when I unplugged it it still spiked lol. Yes I know thats not a scientific approach to troubleshoot !

So far my fix has been to use the fuel pump relay wire bypass kit. I took power from M49 IGN R/ACC/Bat-Pwr Outlet #3, fuse to power the M34 fuse. M49 only gets power when the key is turned on. When either the M38 or M34 fuses are pulled the battery stays charged. The only thing that I see that does not work normally is the interior dome lights with my mod. They dont come on till the key is turn on. Remote start unlock/lock still works. Any place where I can get tap power from when I hit the door locks? I don't mind installing a relay just need a proper trigger circuit and of course I am working without a wiring schematic.

Anyone have any other ideas, I'm out of them.

Below are the three loads graphed out from my meter. My bypass fix is the last image.

Thanks for reading.

 

[Wild one]

Might be easier to install a master disconnect switch on the battery,the trucks 15 years old,so how much money do you actually want to spend on it.

 

[chri5k]

A couple of lifetimes ago I work at a Ford dealer. Did most of the electrical problems since no one else wanted them. Had something similar with an LTD. It ended up being the dome light switches in the door frames were corroded. Enough to draw some current but not enough to light the dome light brightly.

Kind of funny how I found it. The car belonged to the owners parents and he wanted it fixed asap. I was working late and took a nap in the back seat of the LTD. When the night watchman woke me up at 9:30PM, I saw the dome light glowing faintly.

 

[Sherman Bird]

2010 Dodge Ram 1500 5.7 quad cab. The issue started with what I thought was a weak battery. Replaced the battery and had no issue for a couple of months. Then I let the truck sit for 4 days and the truck will not start. Two weeks later the battery drains overnight. Battery drains down to approximately 4 volts.

The intermittent draw on the battery with everything started off around 3.2 amps. When the truck is not drawing 3.2 amps, loads hover around .1 to .250 amps. I have been dealing with this issue for about 5 months with 4 months at the dealership. The dealership gave up and stopped trying to fix the truck. Truck has a lifetime bumper to bumper warranty from FCA, FIAT CHRYSLER AUTOMOBILES. I had to buy some parts out of pocket and try to get reimburse by FCA. The dealer would not buy used parts because some of parts are no longer sold by dodge. FCA says the dealer has the form for me to be reimburse, the dealer says they don't have them. I am tired of dealing with both the dealer and warranty people. I am out of ideas and need help. I have read every thread online about this and still can't figure my problem out. Everything is factory on the truck no aftermarket mods, except for the radio which was installed last week. So while its a lifetime warranty it still costing me to fix the issue.

Here is what I know so far, measured with a fluke 376FC clamp meter .x amp or a fluke 117 for .*** amps


Battery 6 months old 800cca tested by 4 independent shops, test ok.
Soft/hard reset with battery cables tied together, no help.
PCM/ECM unplugged 4 plugs no help.
Removed hood light, no help
Disconnected Amp, no help
Disconnected subwoofer, no help
Glove compartment light verified to work properly.
Removed M39 fuse IOD radio, the intermittent draw drops down from 3.2 to .8 amps. Factory radio replaced with another factory radio no change. Replaced factory radio with aftermarket radio, intermittent amp draw now around .8 amps. I believe something is waking up the radio and the aftermarket radio does not respond. You can hear the factory radio (both used and old) cycling when the amp draw spikes.
Removed M38 fuse IOD CCN/interior mods, load drops from .8 to .044 amps measured from battery terminal. Battery remains charged if removed. Amperage load measured across the fuse is about .2 amps.
Removed M34 fuse BAT CCN/interior light/SCM sw bank, load drops from .8 to .044 amps measured from battery terminal. Battery remains charged if fuse removed. Amperage load measured across the fuse is about .7ish amps. Yes the interior lights are off. This circuit I believe has the remaining load on it.
Cluster removed and not reinstalled, no amp draw battery stays charged.
Cluster replaced with used one, no help still drains the battery.
Clockspring replaced, no help.
Removed power lead to TIPM module battery stays charged.

Parts replaced so far.
Factory radio(used) no change, see above.
Clockspring (new) replaced, no help.
Instrument cluster (used), replaced no help.

Anyone have an idea what is on the M38 and M34 circuit? I believe the CCN is built into the instrument cluster and the clockspring is the SCM. What else could be waking up the truck....TIPM? Door module, pulled the J07 and J03 (door nodes) fuses ampraged still spiked.

I have not tested the TIPM module and don't want to spend another 600-1000 buck on a guess. Dealer says the TIPM was replaced in 2017 but I don't believe them as the case has a 2010 date on it. Anyone have any information on how I can test mine. Everyone I called only wants to sell me a rebult or new unit even if they list repair services. I can hit the tipm with a rubber mallet (firm but not hard!) and the amperage will spike to .8 amps maybe five out of ten times. I was able to do same with the PCM/ECU, but when I unplugged it it still spiked lol. Yes I know thats not a scientific approach to troubleshoot !

So far my fix has been to use the fuel pump relay wire bypass kit. I took power from M49 IGN R/ACC/Bat-Pwr Outlet #3, fuse to power the M34 fuse. M49 only gets power when the key is turned on. When either the M38 or M34 fuses are pulled the battery stays charged. The only thing that I see that does not work normally is the interior dome lights with my mod. They dont come on till the key is turn on. Remote start unlock/lock still works. Any place where I can get tap power from when I hit the door locks? I don't mind installing a relay just need a proper trigger circuit and of course I am working without a wiring schematic.

Anyone have any other ideas, I'm out of them.

Below are the three loads graphed out from my meter. My bypass fix is the last image.

Thanks for reading.

View attachment 549150View attachment 549151View attachment 549152View attachment 549158

.044 amp draw is nothing. My guess (that's all any of us can do) is a module not going to sleep. Inasmuch as "TIPM"s are such unreliable garbage from what I've read and heard about, Maybe that's the culprit.
Surely to gawd, there must be a competent technician near you who can fix this issue. Gonna be 'spensive, though.

 

[Slinge]

I guess next step is to find wire diagrams.
Tipms are easy to remove.
Search this forum for 2010 ram 1500 wire diagrams.
Search youtube for Pine Hollow Automotive Diagnostics, he's very thorough .

 

[RamDiver]

This sounds like a nearly full-time job for a project truck, if you hadn't already paid for the the lifetime warranty.

I wonder if @RamCares could provide any assistance because this sounds like a failure to provide warranty service. You might try sending them a private message if they don't reach out to you in this thread.


This link should provide a service manual, thanks to Ian.

Pdf service manual

Has anyone found a 4th generation service manual in a PDF format? If so can you please share the link? I can't get the McFall one to work on my phone. Thanks!

www.ramforum.com

Download the PDF, use your preferred viewer or browser and control F to word search.




Fuse voltage drop charts are attached. This allows you to measure the voltage drop across a fuse and convert the measurement into mA, the existing current through the fuse.


I would pursue a dialogue with @RamCares first because a failure to provide warranty service is a breach of contract, in my mind (I'm not a lawyer and most things are different where I live).


Unless you have lots of free time and an overwhelming desire to solve this mystery, I'm with Rick, install a battery disconnect and see if the relearn process provides too much inconvenience for your preference.

I'm confident that @Wild one could provide you with guidance.

.

 

[62Blazer]

I'm not an electrical wizard by any means, but just a few comments.
Are you 100% sure the truck is fully in "sleep" mode when testing? Meaning you have all the doors either closed or sensors fooled. Also maybe the hood? It can also go to sleep in phases, meaning certain modules will power down at different times. Not sure how this truck reacts but on some cars it can take 15-30 minutes to fully go to sleep. I also know that when you pull a fuse or disconnect a module it can cause a vehicle to wake up. Just saying this because it can make it tricky.
Have you checked for voltage drop across the M34 and M38 fuses? That can be tested without pulling the fuses and therefore without the risk it will wake up any modules.
If you are 100% certain one or the other of those fuses are the source of the voltage draw you would need to go through a wiring diagram and see what is connected to them. Any type of module or switches on the circuit could be causing the draw.

 

[Sherman Bird]

2010 Dodge Ram 1500 5.7 quad cab. The issue started with what I thought was a weak battery. Replaced the battery and had no issue for a couple of months. Then I let the truck sit for 4 days and the truck will not start. Two weeks later the battery drains overnight. Battery drains down to approximately 4 volts.

The intermittent draw on the battery with everything started off around 3.2 amps. When the truck is not drawing 3.2 amps, loads hover around .1 to .250 amps. I have been dealing with this issue for about 5 months with 4 months at the dealership. The dealership gave up and stopped trying to fix the truck. Truck has a lifetime bumper to bumper warranty from FCA, FIAT CHRYSLER AUTOMOBILES. I had to buy some parts out of pocket and try to get reimburse by FCA. The dealer would not buy used parts because some of parts are no longer sold by dodge. FCA says the dealer has the form for me to be reimburse, the dealer says they don't have them. I am tired of dealing with both the dealer and warranty people. I am out of ideas and need help. I have read every thread online about this and still can't figure my problem out. Everything is factory on the truck no aftermarket mods, except for the radio which was installed last week. So while its a lifetime warranty it still costing me to fix the issue.

Here is what I know so far, measured with a fluke 376FC clamp meter .x amp or a fluke 117 for .*** amps


Battery 6 months old 800cca tested by 4 independent shops, test ok.
Soft/hard reset with battery cables tied together, no help.
PCM/ECM unplugged 4 plugs no help.
Removed hood light, no help
Disconnected Amp, no help
Disconnected subwoofer, no help
Glove compartment light verified to work properly.
Removed M39 fuse IOD radio, the intermittent draw drops down from 3.2 to .8 amps. Factory radio replaced with another factory radio no change. Replaced factory radio with aftermarket radio, intermittent amp draw now around .8 amps. I believe something is waking up the radio and the aftermarket radio does not respond. You can hear the factory radio (both used and old) cycling when the amp draw spikes.
Removed M38 fuse IOD CCN/interior mods, load drops from .8 to .044 amps measured from battery terminal. Battery remains charged if removed. Amperage load measured across the fuse is about .2 amps.
Removed M34 fuse BAT CCN/interior light/SCM sw bank, load drops from .8 to .044 amps measured from battery terminal. Battery remains charged if fuse removed. Amperage load measured across the fuse is about .7ish amps. Yes the interior lights are off. This circuit I believe has the remaining load on it.
Cluster removed and not reinstalled, no amp draw battery stays charged.
Cluster replaced with used one, no help still drains the battery.
Clockspring replaced, no help.
Removed power lead to TIPM module battery stays charged.

Parts replaced so far.
Factory radio(used) no change, see above.
Clockspring (new) replaced, no help.
Instrument cluster (used), replaced no help.

Anyone have an idea what is on the M38 and M34 circuit? I believe the CCN is built into the instrument cluster and the clockspring is the SCM. What else could be waking up the truck....TIPM? Door module, pulled the J07 and J03 (door nodes) fuses ampraged still spiked.

I have not tested the TIPM module and don't want to spend another 600-1000 buck on a guess. Dealer says the TIPM was replaced in 2017 but I don't believe them as the case has a 2010 date on it. Anyone have any information on how I can test mine. Everyone I called only wants to sell me a rebult or new unit even if they list repair services. I can hit the tipm with a rubber mallet (firm but not hard!) and the amperage will spike to .8 amps maybe five out of ten times. I was able to do same with the PCM/ECU, but when I unplugged it it still spiked lol. Yes I know thats not a scientific approach to troubleshoot !

So far my fix has been to use the fuel pump relay wire bypass kit. I took power from M49 IGN R/ACC/Bat-Pwr Outlet #3, fuse to power the M34 fuse. M49 only gets power when the key is turned on. When either the M38 or M34 fuses are pulled the battery stays charged. The only thing that I see that does not work normally is the interior dome lights with my mod. They dont come on till the key is turn on. Remote start unlock/lock still works. Any place where I can get tap power from when I hit the door locks? I don't mind installing a relay just need a proper trigger circuit and of course I am working without a wiring schematic.

Anyone have any other ideas, I'm out of them.

Below are the three loads graphed out from my meter. My bypass fix is the last image.

Thanks for reading.

View attachment 549150View attachment 549151View attachment 549152View attachment 549158

 

[BrokeRam]

This link should provide a service manual, thanks to Ian.

Thank you. I will take a look at it.

Unless you have lots of free time and an overwhelming desire to solve this mystery, I'm with Rick, install a battery disconnect and see if the relearn process provides too much inconvenience for your preference.

So far using the fuel pump relay fix for my issue seems to be solving my problem. I don't like the fact that the interior lights do not light up when I hit the unlock/lock button. Sometimes the wife or daughter drives my truck. It just needs to be fixed the right way. Also, if I sell the truck I am going to take a bath on it if it has a master battery switch. I don't mind fixing the problem, I don't want to waste money doing it.

Have you checked for voltage drop across the M34 and M38 fuses? That can be tested without pulling the fuses and therefore without the risk it will wake up any modules.

Amperage readings for those two circuits and others are listed on the first post. .7 amps and .1-2 amps respectively

Are you 100% sure the truck is fully in "sleep" mode when testing? Meaning you have all the doors either closed or sensors fooled. Also maybe the hood? It can also go to sleep in phases, meaning certain modules will power down at different times. Not sure how this truck reacts but on some cars it can take 15-30 minutes to fully go to sleep. I also know that when you pull a fuse or disconnect a module it can cause a vehicle to wake up. Just saying this because it can make it tricky.

Who knows exactly when all those modules go to sleep. I have days watching these loads spike. If you look at the first post with graphs one shows a .8 amp load. Whatever that module is, its not sleeping. You can see it wakes every few mins. I believe what ever is on M38 is waking up whatever modules that are on M34 and M39. I don't know if the CCN wants to talk to the TIPM or vice versa. I believe the CCN is in the instrument cluster which has been swapped out.

Can you get your hands on a higher end scanner with topography? If so, you could run a full system scan, and you would see the results of self check in all of the modules. Many of these vehicles have north of 20 computer modules.

I have a cheap scanner than can read the modules. None of the modules are throwing a code. I am sure that the higher end scanner would be better. Also the truck was at a dodge dealer for 4 months. Ahhhh....Err they could not troubleshoot themselves out of a wet paper bag, forget that statement.

I wonder if @RamCares could provide any assistance because this sounds like a failure to provide warranty service. You might try sending them a private message if they don't reach out to you in this thread.

FCA doesn't care they told me they just will prorate the portion of the lifetime warranty and refund it. I think the dealer charged them over 5k in repairs bills already, plus the money I spent on the parts that the dealer would not buy.

If you are 100% certain one or the other of those fuses are the source of the voltage draw you would need to go through a wiring diagram and see what is connected to them. Any type of module or switches on the circuit could be causing the draw.

99.9% sure that when the M38 fuse is removed the problem stops. I have not let the truck sit for a month, but have for 4 days so far. Is that cause I don't know. I can only guess that this circuit is waking up the other circuits. What else is on that circuit? I can't find anything. Book says M38 IOD CCN/interior mods. Can't find any info on interior mods.








Thanks to everyone who replied.

 

[BrokeRam]

These new-fangled vehicles are just WAY over the heads of DIY'ers. Kudos for trying, and having the persistence to go the distance.

Thanks, I 'll find a guru that has seen this before.

 

[62Blazer]

99.9% sure that when the M38 fuse is removed the problem stops. I have not let the truck sit for a month, but have for 4 days so far. Is that cause I don't know. I can only guess that this circuit is waking up the other circuits. What else is on that circuit? I can't find anything. Book says M38 IOD CCN/interior mods. Can't find any info on interior mods.

So what does not work when you pull the M38 fuse? I spent a few minutes on Google and several say door lock modules are on that circuit, and maybe some instrument clusters stuff.
Maybe you already did this, but the direction I would go:
- verify what does not work when pulling the M38 fuse
- after reinstalling the fuse, start disconnecting the associated modules or switches on the components that did not work when the fuse was pulled. Go one at a time and see if the battery drain goes away.
- if you do find one switch or module that stops the drain, I would continue to do some checking. Sometimes one switch or module is piggy-backed off another. For example, sometimes the passenger door lock and window switches actually run through the driver's switch. The driver's switch controls all of the doors and windows. Point being if you unplug the driver's switch and the draw goes away, the driver's switch may not be the issue. Unplugging the driver's switch can be the same as unplugging the passenger door switch, meaning the passenger door switch is really the issue but disconnecting the driver's switch essentially also disconnected the passenger switch. Not saying this is always the case, but just something to keep in mind.
- of course I would still recommend trying to get ahold of a wiring diagram and trace out that circuit, the above would get you started.

 

[BrokeRam]

So what does not work when you pull the M38 fuse? I spent a few minutes on Google and several say door lock modules are on that circuit, and maybe some instrument clusters stuff.
Maybe you already did this, but the direction I would go:
- verify what does not work when pulling the M38 fuse
- after reinstalling the fuse, start disconnecting the associated modules or switches on the components that did not work when the fuse was pulled. Go one at a time and see if the battery drain goes away.
- if you do find one switch or module that stops the drain, I would continue to do some checking. Sometimes one switch or module is piggy-backed off another. For example, sometimes the passenger door lock and window switches actually run through the driver's switch. The driver's switch controls all of the doors and windows. Point being if you unplug the driver's switch and the draw goes away, the driver's switch may not be the issue. Unplugging the driver's switch can be the same as unplugging the passenger door switch, meaning the passenger door switch is really the issue but disconnecting the driver's switch essentially also disconnected the passenger switch. Not saying this is always the case, but just something to keep in mind.
- of course I would still recommend trying to get ahold of a wiring diagram and trace out that circuit, the above would get you started.

I pulled the door node fuses J07 and J03 no help. Actually I even opened the doors and closed the door latch manually with the doors still open. Hit the drivers and passenger drivers side door latch with a mallet and had a spike ah ha! I pulled the the door node fuses J07 and J03 still had the amp spike, . Fuse M38 has the steering wheel controls on it, SCM. Clockspring was replaced at the dealership. The M38 circuit only about a .1 to .2 load on it. If I pull the M38 fuse, M34 and M39 no longer have any load.

I can swap the jumper (my fuel relay mod) from M34 to M38 but I get a "no fuse" on the instrument cluster when I start the truck. Also no interior lights radio off and seat memory as well until the key is turned on quickly started. Seat stays all the way back. Door locks remote start operate normally when M38 or M34 pulled.

Thanks for the ideas and looking

 

[Tominator223]

Tipm is fairly easy to disassemble & check & or repair. I’m not sure on the 10yr model . But some do have 3 relays in the tipm that are soldered . I’ve replaced mine. Had weird things start with the lights mostly. Get a 900-1000watt iron & new relays. Probably take a couple hrs. All the plugs only go one place. Also look at the board for corrosion once the tipm is apart. When I went to tech school , we would create phantom draws. And then our class mates would have to diagnose what it was. Getting a guy to climb in the trunk was always funny.

 

[Marshall]

I have not read everything yet, but #34 interior lights, first thing I would do is check out the wiring in the doors those move every time you open, close a door.
You need a wiring diagram if the dealer can't/ will not fix it. some dealers don't have the guys equipped to think with their brain /visa tossing parts, but working on flat rate, I kind of understand that. I had trouble with the wifes Honda and installed a little battery maintaner on it, If it was going to sit for a few days , I would plug it in, cost about 40.oo 2 amp
The main problem was the POS Honda battery that they said tested fine.
I went to Canadian tire and it was down on their tester, and bought a new one, fixed the problem.

 

[RamDiver]

So far using the fuel pump relay fix for my issue seems to be solving my problem.

What does this statement refer to? Please explain this fuel pump relay fix and how it seems to be solving the problem.

FCA doesn't care they told me they just will prorate the portion of the lifetime warranty and refund it. I think the dealer charged them over 5k in repairs bills already, plus the money I spent on the parts that the dealer would not buy.

I'm not a lawyer but this doesn't sound legally legitimate. FCA has a legal contract to supply a warranty, not if it's convenient or easy to provide but because they took your money. This might be worth talking to a lawyer.

.

 

[Wheatboy]

Thank you. I will take a look at it.




So far using the fuel pump relay fix for my issue seems to be solving my problem. I don't like the fact that the interior lights do not light up when I hit the unlock/lock button. Sometimes the wife or daughter drives my truck. It just needs to be fixed the right way. Also, if I sell the truck I am going to take a bath on it if it has a master battery switch. I don't mind fixing the problem, I don't want to waste money doing it.
View attachment 549199

 

[Wheatboy]

I see you found the Fuel Pump jumper solution before I responded. Keep in mind it should only be a temporary solution.

When I had the issue, I jumpered it for awhile until the basic $59 Relay Bypass (plug-in board with fuse slots) from Vertical Visions arrived. It's been working flawlessly for a couple of years now. Here's a Comprehensive thread that discusses the issue.

The relay bypass was better than letting a mechanic splice into the TIPM wiring (to overcome/replace the bad relay) & way better than dropping upwards of $1000 to replace a board for a $5 relay. Also looks like they are doing repairs on the TIPM boards now too (if one can go without their truck for awhile).

 

[Hardracer]

I cannot add to what others have said but your knowledge of trying to find out the culprit is top notch and the way your relaying the info to these fellas is spot on...really sucks about your situation as i have a 2010 also so I pay attention to these problems...hope it gets sorted out.

 

[Marshall]

Wheatboy;
I have never had any problem with my 2010 or current 2014. Did you ever pull the TIPM apart?
Sounds like the relay is inside on bottom.
If you could get the board out or at it , another relay could be installed, if the board is not cooked, or a remote relay leads soldered on the board in place of the factory relay.

But I guess if it was that simple the service shop would do that rather then chop wires or try to sell a $1000 (US?) stupid cck board.

I guess the engineers thought relays never go bad, *******'s ,reminds me of PM's
That harness should be a easy build, I use to have all that stuff in the shop at one time.
BTW , what would be different from the wire harness and your new board? looks like they do the same job plugged into the same spots?
BTW in speedy creek.

 

[Wheatboy]

Wheatboy;
I have never had any problem with my 2010 or current 2014. Did you ever pull the TIPM apart?
Sounds like the relay is inside on bottom.
If you could get the board out or at it , another relay could be installed, if the board is not cooked, or a remote relay leads soldered on the board in place of the factory relay.

But I guess if it was that simple the service shop would do that rather then chop wires or try to sell a $1000 (US?) stupid cck board.

I guess the engineers thought relays never go bad, *******'s ,reminds me of PM's
That harness should be a easy build, I use to have all that stuff in the shop at one time.
BTW , what would be different from the wire harness and your new board? looks like they do the same job plugged into the same spots?
BTW in speedy creek.

No, I never had my TIPM out. I'd assume that the repair Vertical Visions does would be what your suggesting (I wouldn't hesitate to call as they are super helpful).

I stayed away from cutting/splicing in wires because splicing can let to further problems (if not done right & it's too important in this instance) but more so because if anything further happens to the board (other relays, etc) it'll mean a new board is required (and dealing with the splicing which would likely mean a new overpriced harness.

Other than price for new board, I looked at it as a "could happen again" -- especially since my neighbour has also had it happen... so the current solution had the best bang for the buck, allows for fuses, and does not affecting anything else.

Cheers