Another zf8 fluid change question. PPE pan and winter weather

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TC

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Anytime I have an o-ring being compressed into a bore I add a light film of silicone grease to the o-ring. They slide in easier and don’t try to “roll”. FWIW.

best,
RI

Good tip! I used transmission fluid to lube but grease is probably better for this type application
 
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stenerson

stenerson

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Drained the fluid this evening. Gonna let it drain all night. 160K miles (I know, I'm a meathead) but surprised, fluid looks better than I thought it would. I did the paper towel test that I've seen on some videos and it looks clear and unburnt. The red hydraulics/transmission fluids usually have a strong, foul smell. This zf8 fluid not much odor from it. Will send to blackstone labs, curious what 160K miles will look like on paper.
 
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stenerson

stenerson

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Sheesh. I'd of gladly paid 40 or 50 bucks more for plug and play PPE pan. I'm fighting to get these metal sleeves in the hole. I'm not much of a machinist, afraid I'm gonna crack the pan trying to get these in.
 
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stenerson

stenerson

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I should have done this years ago. It's very easy to do with the 3.6 engines. No obstructions, easy access to all bolts and fill plug. My only headache was getting them metal sleeves to fit. Thx to the guy that suggested a small round file. After one or two I got the hang of it and it became quick work.
I bought 3 gallons of Amsoil ATL and it was too much hassle to return when I found out some have had issues. But I know many with zf8 that have used and are happy with it. Took her for a spin, smooth as always, though I'm not really noticing a difference in trans temps. Haven't installed the caulk bypass yet.
 

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MRFREEZE57

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Sheesh. I'd of gladly paid 40 or 50 bucks more for plug and play PPE pan. I'm fighting to get these metal sleeves in the hole. I'm not much of a machinist, afraid I'm gonna crack the pan trying to get these in.
You just need to ream the holes a little to where they slip in with little pressure.
 
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stenerson

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I didn't bother with those metal sleeves. The instructions make no mention of it.
Thanks. I don't think they make much of a difference. It's the gasket that keeps the fluid from leaking. I did it because the instructions that came with the pan included that part. But it was quick work with a small round file. At first I played with reducing the size of the sleeves with a 1 x 30 grinder 80 grit sandpaper. But then found the round file was quick and easier.

60168deb-d83d-4cf4-a287-30190e397b52.jpg
 

mands0807

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Same here. wasnt wasting time fiddle ******* around with those.
From what I've seen on other posts, the inserts were to help keeping the plastic pan from cracking from overtightening. Some people prefer to reuse them to help keep the gasket aligned during install of the PPE pan, but if you use a couple of pan bolts on opposing sides/corners, and hand start them, alignment shouldn't be an issue.
 
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stenerson

stenerson

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From what I've seen on other posts, the inserts were to help keeping the plastic pan from cracking from overtightening. Some people prefer to reuse them to help keep the gasket aligned during install of the PPE pan, but if you use a couple of pan bolts on opposing sides/corners, and hand start them, alignment shouldn't be an issue.

It can also help pan from shifting around a bit as you line up and insert the first screws while trying to make sure you insert filter properly. Because of the pan's weight I couldn't really feel if the filter filler neck was entering properly. But that being said I've seen videos on youtube and the folks not doing this step. The instructions call them metal "flange collars." I went very light on tightening, no leaks yet.

PPE pan instructions.jpg
 

Wild one

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I never used the sleeves,and have never had any issues with the gasket staying in place,and i highly doubt there's very many guys who've had their PPE pan on and off as many times as i have.If the sleeves work use them,but i wouldn't be overly worried if they weren't in place either
 
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