Anti-theft alarm cannot be disabled anymore

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RamDiver

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I think that's the mode in which the system was before the power loss.
But I can't get into it anymore. I tried different variations to get into the state where the LED is permanently illuminated - without success.

So, we'll keep it in what we call mode 'B'.


Just one additional question: As I searched for any control unit, I thought the respondig cables were among a big bundle that goes into the remote start unit. However there's only the main plug used, the plug for remote start is free. Afaik the remote start also has access to horn, signal lights and motor controls. Is there any alarm system in the remote start unit included?

There are many remote start/alarm systems available.

I had a Viper alarm on my last truck and it had two FOBs. If you were to unlock with the OEM FOB, the alarm would activate the horn & a siren under the hood.

You're lucky that your alarm doesn't disable the ignition, the Viper did.

Is the remote start unit that you've found, maybe, the alarm controller too? That's very common.

What do you mean by "the plug for the remote start is free"? What plug?

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Simon05

Simon05

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Is the remote start unit that you've found, maybe, the alarm controller too? That's very common.
Yes, that's actually what I assume. Especially, because I have this controller but no remote start FOB.
What do you mean by "the plug for the remote start is free"? What plug?
I have this remote start controller unit from Mopar (05140464aa) behind the knee guard. This unit has two slots where plugs can be connected. First one is a big one and is labelled with "main" on the housing. The second one is a smaller one and labelled with 'car start'.
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This one is not used, it's free
So I thought, somebody just added this controller for the alarm, not for the remote start. And it is definitely not originally mounted, because it is fixed with cable ties.
 

RamDiver

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Excellent news, now you can make a plan and get this PITA disconnected asap.

If it were me, my first priority would be end these unexpected surprises and get this thing disconnected.

According to the label, it does bypass/disable the ignition, which in other words, is your first priority to find.

If you simply disconnect or remove power, your ignition may be disabled. As a test, try disconnecting the main plug, if it has one, to see if it kills the ability for ignition.

If there's no connector, remove the power connection for the ignition test.

Should you have no ignition ability after disconnecting, start looking for the ignition line bypass. They're often located under the steering column but could be anywhere.

Follow the wires from the label, 3, 7, 13, & 16 should point you in the right direction.

The OEM ignition wire from the key switch will be cut , allowing the alarm to disable the ignition. You will require to restore that factory ignition wire with a crimp connector or better yet, solder and heatshrink, if you are able.

Once the ignition bypass is restored, you're good to yank out the other wires associated with this alarm.

One caveat, if you might like to make use of this alarm in the future, we can likely find the manufacturer with the details on that label.

Often, they charge almost the cost of a new system to replace the remote FOBs and may not be worth the money, that's up to you.

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chri5k

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The fcc id traces back to Code Systems Inc. They make Code Alarm brand auto alarm systems. Appears to be an Australian company that is still in business. Google for their products and you may find a manual for the unit. Alternatively, try reaching out to them to see if they can help.

Google search of the part number brings up a thread about the system on another forum. The link to the manual in that thread is dead. There is good info in that thread though. Forum rules don’t allow posting links to other forums so you will have to do your own google search.
 
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