ANYONE GREASE FRONT END LATELY?

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dek1581

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I HAVE 2017 RAM 1500 BIGHORN 4WD. HAS 36,000 MILES. I CHANGE OIL EVERY 3,000 MILES BUT HAVE NEVER GREASED FRONT END. I CAN'T SEEM TO FIND ANY GREASE FITTINGS IN THE FRONT END. AM I MISSING SOMETHING OR ARE THEY ALL SEALED (NON-SERVICEABLE)?
 

Wild one

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I HAVE 2017 RAM 1500 BIGHORN 4WD. HAS 36,000 MILES. I CHANGE OIL EVERY 3,000 MILES BUT HAVE NEVER GREASED FRONT END. I CAN'T SEEM TO FIND ANY GREASE FITTINGS IN THE FRONT END. AM I MISSING SOMETHING OR ARE THEY ALL SEALED (NON-SERVICEABLE)?
Hasn't been a grease fitting on the 1500's for many years,so you're not missing anything.
 

pacofortacos

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I grease all of my non-greaseable joints on all suspension parts - they tend to last basically forever at that point.
They make a needle that goes onto the grease gun, I use it and fill the boot that way.
 

nlambert182

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My 18 1500 seems to have grease fitting on the upper control arms.... I thought it kind of odd and it all looks OEM (60k miles). Are you saying that they shouldn't be there?
 

Daw14

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My 18 1500 seems to have grease fitting on the upper control arms.... I thought it kind of odd and it all looks OEM (60k miles). Are you saying that they shouldn't be there?
That is more than likely just a nub to attach an arm for air ride suspension, it registers the height. If you look close you will see it is a solid fitting.
 

WY-Dave

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What's the owners manual and/or any stickers under the hood? '18 CTD 2500 has on greasing on the front and there is a sticker for it
 

AKAllen

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On my 2013 2500 4x4. It's a PITA to find. If you have the sticker on top of the driver side fender under the hood, you have this fitting. None anywhere else on this model. I have to make sure the lube tech knows it has one or it won't get greased at every oil change per manual. If vehicle is on a lift and the front axle hangs free, you won't find it because the driveshaft angle is too sharp to see it or grease it. Front axle has to be on the ground so the driveshaft angle is flat enough to see it get the needle into the zert. You have to jack up one side of the axle just enough to spin one of the tires so the shaft rotates so you can find the zert. I have to use a creeper and flash light when I do it, and then wish I had 3 arms.
 

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06 Dodge

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On my 2013 2500 4x4. It's a PITA to find. If you have the sticker on top of the driver side fender under the hood, you have this fitting. None anywhere else on this model. I have to make sure the lube tech knows it has one or it won't get greased at every oil change per manual. If vehicle is on a lift and the front axle hangs free, you won't find it because the driveshaft angle is too sharp to see it or grease it. Front axle has to be on the ground so the driveshaft angle is flat enough to see it get the needle into the zert. You have to jack up one side of the axle just enough to spin one of the tires so the shaft rotates so you can find the zert. I have to use a creeper and flash light when I do it, and then wish I had 3 arms.
It looks just like the one on my 2006 2500 4x4, it was a real pain to gears so once a year I had Dodge grease if for me, the fun part is getting a new oil change person to tell you the truck does not have one in the front drive line, when SM tells them it does indeed have one in the drive line they will look and try to say no, that is until they get a diesel tech to show them how to find & grease it :Big Laugh:
 

Jeepwalker

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For many years vehicles have used lifetime greased joints. The difference between the old-school joints is, the modern non-greasable joints basically use a polished or chrome-plated ball which is pressed into a teflon seat. And a bit of grease during assembly (but not very much). So with the polished ball, teflon and grease (probably synthetic), they've reduced a lot of friction and wear at the ball joint/tie rod end, etc. Whereas in the old days a good greasable joint would have a hardened steel cage around a stud's ball (pressed into the joint). Even with regular greasing you could still have steel-on-steel.

Just putting grease in a non-greaseable joint won't really grease it up. I mean it can't hurt, but ...are you adding a grease which will be compatible to what's in there? If you REALLY want to lubricate the joint .....and most guys don't want to do this because it takes extra work, but if you REALLY want to grease the joint and make them last do this. Remove, the joints and rotate them throughout their entire range (by hand). While doing that, squeeze the boot in ...to work grease inside the boot back into the joint. It's difficult to do it with the ball joints, but if you happen to be doing suspension work, or replacing the wheel bearing/hub, and have the UCA disconnected, that is the time to work grease back into the ball joints. Usually there is a metal ring around the boot which can be carefully removed and new grease added.

What causes a lot of joints to fail is corrosion. The grease can dry out, or not be on the ball portion of the stud. Then the polished ball begins to rust or corrode. Then the corrosion tears up the teflon and you end up with excessive play. So by working the grease back in a little it can extend the life of the joint. This should almost be a routine part of 100k mi service.

Yeah, some driveshafts do have access to the ball/bearing assembly at the double-cardin joint, where present. If not, drizzle a little 90 weight lube on it ..it helps. A guy can also remove the front U-joint (or the rear driveshaft u-joints too), add a daub of 'compatible' grease and squeeze the caps in with a C-clamp. If it's a drilled U-joint it'll force grease into the other caps and lubricate the bearings. But even if it doesn't, rotating the U-joint throughout it's entire range and lubing the outer caps helps too.

All in all, my truck for example, has 173k mi on it, with all original steering joints and U-joints. It drives tight. I've driven trucks with a bit less than 100k mi and the steering on mine felt just as tight. And my H3 has 200k, also drives tight. Sure mine's a highway queen, but non-greasable joints have the potential of lasting a long time. Larger-than-stock tires or water/humid environments will add extra stress on the driveline and joints, so extra attention needs to be paid in these circumstances.
 
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pacofortacos

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Greasing them via the boot does allow for some of the oil in the grease to fall out of the grease on hot days, but more importantly, it greatly inhibits water formation and the corrosion you mention.

If you ever tore apart a failed joint, they are all rusty and dry.

The old dakotas were known to have ball joints fail - so often that they were recalled at one point. I never had one get any play in and they were like new when the recalled units were put in.

I lube similar type sway bar links also.
 

gofishn

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..... and then wish I had 3 arms.
I'll keep the legs, much more fun.


Sorry, first thing that popped in my head when I read the comment.
My Wife is Right, I am so immature.
 
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