Anyone try Modifystreet headlights?

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Ben1551

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I do have a problem though, I have the drl tapped to fuse F66 like Alpharex suggests to do the problem with doing this is that it turns my mirror dimmer off which isnt a huge deal but wondered if others have this problem
 

Austen

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Austen:

"What fixed my parking light out issue was enabling the two settings below.
CBC Features-LED Front Turn Lamps Present
AND
CBC Features-LED Front Park/Marker Lamps Present"


FWIW my parking light / side marker are set that way - but still get the parking light out fault code. A resistor will stop the code but -


One other question - I noted that the parking light / side marker on my AlphaRex headlights are noticeably brighter than the parking light / side marker on my stock projector headlights. Since you were changing light voltage did you change it on your parking light side marker? If so what did you notice?
I have my OEM factory quad headlights but I have LEDs for all the bulbs I tried disabling HIDs last night and increasing the brightness to max and HIDs present setting is just as bright so I enabled it again. I'm not sure why you would still be getting that error code with those two settings enabled. I would double check my connections even though I'm sure you already have it's worth a shot.

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crash68

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I do have a problem though, I have the drl tapped to fuse F66 like Alpharex suggests to do the problem with doing this is that it turns my mirror dimmer off which isnt a huge deal but wondered if others have this problem
I would to check if the fuse and fuse tap is seated all the way, not sure why the DRL would cause the mirror dimmer to stop working. I think this problem is the first I've heard of it.
You could always add the dedicated DRL circuits to the headlight wiring harness. It will get the power from the headlight circuits and they will work like factory DRLs instead of just turning on when the truck is running.
 

chrisbh17

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I think the only real way to put to bed the voltage(s) "listening" the changes in Alfa will be to multimeter them after making the changes.

And judging on how some trucks take a few key cycles to "accept" changes, just because you change it now doesnt mean it will necessarily show a change immediately.

Ive looked at BCM configs for people with factory projectors and their voltages are the same as my halogen truck was from the factory. Not sure it means anything, but I have tried changing the voltages on my truck now that I have modified AlphaRex headlights, all LED bulbs, etc. I get a random turn signal out message that seems to have gotten a little better with all voltages set to (or near) 12V, including DRL, front corner, high and low beams. Still not completely fixed, though.
 

SitKneelBend

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I think the only real way to put to bed the voltage(s) "listening" the changes in Alfa will be to multimeter them after making the changes.

And judging on how some trucks take a few key cycles to "accept" changes, just because you change it now doesnt mean it will necessarily show a change immediately.

Ive looked at BCM configs for people with factory projectors and their voltages are the same as my halogen truck was from the factory. Not sure it means anything, but I have tried changing the voltages on my truck now that I have modified AlphaRex headlights, all LED bulbs, etc. I get a random turn signal out message that seems to have gotten a little better with all voltages set to (or near) 12V, including DRL, front corner, high and low beams. Still not completely fixed, though.
I could be completely off in my understanding here, but I wonder what would happen if you set the voltage lower? Maybe it's expecting the higher voltage because if the setting and if you lower the parking lamp voltage the expectation changes? Just a thought, could be way off base...

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chrisbh17

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I could be completely off in my understanding here, but I wonder what would happen if you set the voltage lower? Maybe it's expecting the higher voltage because if the setting and if you lower the parking lamp voltage the expectation changes? Just a thought, could be way off base...

Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk

Im not exactly sure what the logic is inside the BCM. I assume its looking for a certain amount of resistance (of course) but since there is no setting to disable a DTC for turn signals, I cant make it ignore if the resistance is "off" compared to what it is expecting.

My other question is how does it determine what it is expecting. Is it a hard-coded value or does it take into account the voltage settings, which would change the expected resistance.

In the case of the error Im getting, it keeps throwing a "short to battery + or open circuit". My out-there theory was that, with default settings, the voltage values are pretty different.....DRL at 7.4V, corners at 13V, low beam at 14V and high beam at 14.2V. So when the headlights kick on, you'll get the voltage going from 7.4 all the way to 13V. Is that "spike" enough to trigger a "short to battery +" message if the turn signal happens to be going at the same time?

When I changed DRL to 11.8V (12V is not an option), and corner/low/high to 12V, the error took a lot longer to occur. It did still occur, but it seemed less sensitive at least for a week or two. Its making me question my own soldering skills, but I figured if that was the issue, it would happen all of the time.
 

Jimmy07

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My other question is how does it determine what it is expecting. Is it a hard-coded value or does it take into account the voltage settings, which would change the expected resistance.
Each individual LED in an array has a resistor for it, otherwise the LED itself would draw pretty much all the available current from the battery and immediately burn out. The total resistance value of the LED array that is presented to the BCM doesn’t change. If voltage to the LEDs is increased, then the current flowing through them is also increased. The resistance doesn’t change, but the resistors and LEDs will dissipate more heat and become brighter. The fact that the errors you get change in frequency when you make target voltage changes would make me think that the BCM is monitoring a combination of resistance and current.
 

chrisbh17

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1500ram12

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Phase 2?

Inquiring minds want to know!

Upgrade the low beams projectors ( haven't decided what projectors yet) and replace the profile led projectors with the new morimoto high beam led projectors. Might change the paint scheme also


2018 Ram 2500 6.4L Hemi Tradesman
 

chrisbh17

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Upgrade the low beams projectors ( haven't decided what projectors yet) and replace the profile led projectors with the new morimoto high beam led projectors. Might change the paint scheme also


2018 Ram 2500 6.4L Hemi Tradesman

Haha well just a couple small changes :)
 

r84boomer

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Has anyone found an Alfaobd fix for parking lamp out on the gen 2 lights?
 

turboguard

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Just installed G2's and Hikari Ultras, and EXTREMELY pleased with them. Changed the entire look of the Warlock and I CAN SEE AT NIGHT!
The only modification I did was splice the red DRL wire from the headlights into the DRL wire on the projector harness they sent (which was probably pointless, since I could have just enabled the parking lights as DRL in alfaobd and gotten the same effect...) but I also get the left/right turn signal out message. I just decided to disable the door ajar setting (wtf RAM?) to turn off the front lamp diagnostics. No errors at all.
However...I am getting radio interference at varying levels depending on the station (weaker stations pretty much go out completely). Anyone else getting static with their Hikari Ultras?
 

chrisbh17

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Just installed G2's and Hikari Ultras, and EXTREMELY pleased with them. Changed the entire look of the Warlock and I CAN SEE AT NIGHT!
The only modification I did was splice the red DRL wire from the headlights into the DRL wire on the projector harness they sent (which was probably pointless, since I could have just enabled the parking lights as DRL in alfaobd and gotten the same effect...) but I also get the left/right turn signal out message. I just decided to disable the door ajar setting (wtf RAM?) to turn off the front lamp diagnostics. No errors at all.
However...I am getting radio interference at varying levels depending on the station (weaker stations pretty much go out completely). Anyone else getting static with their Hikari Ultras?

Did your truck come with projector headlights from the factory?
 

Jimmy07

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Just installed G2's and Hikari Ultras, and EXTREMELY pleased with them. Changed the entire look of the Warlock and I CAN SEE AT NIGHT!
The only modification I did was splice the red DRL wire from the headlights into the DRL wire on the projector harness they sent (which was probably pointless, since I could have just enabled the parking lights as DRL in alfaobd and gotten the same effect...) but I also get the left/right turn signal out message. I just decided to disable the door ajar setting (wtf RAM?) to turn off the front lamp diagnostics. No errors at all.
However...I am getting radio interference at varying levels depending on the station (weaker stations pretty much go out completely). Anyone else getting static with their Hikari Ultras?
I get static interference from HIDs on the rare occasion that I listen to FM. Not enough for me to do something about it. You’ll need a ferrite choke if you want to take care of it.
 

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I’ll apologize in advance because I’m sure this has been answered a 100 times. Do the Alpharex Pro Series headlights adjust the same way as the stock Ram 2500 headlights do with the 2 holes on either side under the hood?
 

SitKneelBend

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I’ll apologize in advance because I’m sure this has been answered a 100 times. Do the Alpharex Pro Series headlights adjust the same way as the stock Ram 2500 headlights do with the 2 holes on either side under the hood?
Yes.

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1500ram12

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I’ll apologize in advance because I’m sure this has been answered a 100 times. Do the Alpharex Pro Series headlights adjust the same way as the stock Ram 2500 headlights do with the 2 holes on either side under the hood?

They do but when you look in the holes you'll only see what appears to be a gear. That's the adjustment screw. You'll need a Phillips head screw driver, a #3 works best.


2018 Ram 2500 6.4L Hemi Tradesman
 

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