ARH LT header install from top ?

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Propanedr

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While i have the heads off my truck, ive decided to install new headers. I chose the ARH long tube headers. Has anyone installed headers from the engine bay down while their heads were off ? should i just tuck them in from the ground up ?

Thanks for your input
 

Tim Garceau

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You'll need to work in all directions since you're replacing the Y-pipe. As far as assembling the headers to the heads and installing, maybe you could snake them down with the hood off and a hoist if you cleared the way.

Let us know what happens!
 
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Propanedr

Propanedr

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Well I was thinking just dropping them down from the top before I installed the heads. Sorry if I didnt make that clear. I'll post an update when I'm done. Thanks
 

Tim Garceau

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Sure, you're going to need to manipulate the dipstick/steering shaft to get the OEM manifold out. Should be easier top down with the heads and hoses out of the way no doubt.
 

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Just a little advice about your header install. BEFORE you install your headers get under your truck(mainly on the drivers side) and look at the inside of the frame rail. You will see a couple of lines that are attached to the frame rail that need to be moved before your installation. There should be 2 or 3 holes in your frame and the clip that holds those lines is in the bottom hole----it needs to be popped out and moved to the upper most hole. The fuel line is also running along that frame rail and it should also be moved as high as you can get it and it wouldn't hurt to wrap it also. The trans cable needs to be either relocated or wrapped in the header wrap so it doesn't burn the cable, or you can wrap the headers themselves. If you don't do these things before you install your headers you will find that when you either decide to move the lines or wrap them I hope you got little tiny hands cause there ain't much room to work. It sure will save you a lot of pain, skinned knuckles, blood loss and frustration if you do these things BEFORE installation. Don't ask how I figured this out---My problems were all on me--Matt at Moe's told me the same thing I'm telling you, except I didn't get it done---I learned a very valuable lesson.
Jay
 

savage_46

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I thought about the same thing when doing mine & how nice it would've been to drop the headers in from the top while doing my engine swap. Or even leaving the one head off I had to pull & drop head/header combo in as one. But, LT's are pretty long & I think it would be a little too cumbersome. Between head weight, overall size, & not damaging the head gasket; to me it's not worth it. I'd rather save the effort & frustration for the oil dipstick.
 

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The dip stick can be a pain in the ass. Locar has replacements that will work but damn their proud of them. If you go that route I think the best one would be either the 30" or 31". Both are custom built thus the high price.
Jay
 

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The dip stick can be a pain in the ass. Locar has replacements that will work but damn their proud of them. If you go that route I think the best one would be either the 30" or 31". Both are custom built thus the high price.
Jay

On their site they have footnote that it states passenger side mount...?? So it relocates from the drivers side???
Also what do they cost roughly? Don't see prices on the site, they encourage buying from one of their distributors.
And this would take care of the only tough part of header install??
 

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They have to custom build the one's for our trucks. They remain on the drivers side, they are just a lot longer(you can order any length)and are flexible. For some strange reason if you try to order one for a Ram truck w/ a hemi they will tell you they don't make them, however if you order one for a Challenger or Charger with a Hemi they will build it for you----there the same--they still fit--I don't get it?????? Because it's a custom build you have to submit a drawing for them. Member "Wildone" I think has a copy of the drawing people have submitted. I think you can invest around $150-$175 before your done---
Jay
 

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Wild one

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For +- $200 US the stock one may be just fine after any fighting with it... it's free after all. Lol.

They have increased in price lately,lol. My custom order one was $180.00 Canuck shipped to my door over here in Alberta,but that was 4 years ago. Re-install the dipstick before you put all the bolts in,it usually makes it easier to get the tube back in the block,if the headers still have some wiggle room.Once everythings tightened down,tweak the tube so it isn't touching the header.The tube rattling on the header is famous for causing the knock sensors to pull timing,and there's a knock sensor right in that vinicity.
 

Wild one

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thanks for all the input. ill take ALL that info in consideration before i do the install.

Jay already pointed out the issues with the brake and fuel lines on the drivers side frame rail,if you want to save yourself a bunch of head-aches,wrap the headers with header wrap,it keeps those lines a lot happier,lol.No ceramic coating them isn't the same.
 

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Please let us know how your install goes--
Jay
 

Wild one

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If you have one of these sockets in 7/16" and a long extension,it'll make your day go a lot better installing the bottom row of bolts .With this style socket you can reach through the tubes and get at the bottom bolts with a socket.An impact swivel socket is to bulky and won't quite latch onto the bolt heads ,at least that's what I've found on my 1 7/8" JBA's.

https://www.bing.com/images/search?view=detailV2&ccid=LHo4BH3h&id=EC701BDBADD145E9F2E219BCCF23E4AE6875FA4B&thid=OIP.LHo4BH3hHOok0BSZ9N47jQHaC2&mediaurl=http://i.ebayimg.com/images/i/361450027373-0-1/s-l1000.jpg&exph=386&expw=1000&q=Snap-on+7/16+flexible++socket&simid=607999992997872146&selectedIndex=18&ajaxhist=0
 

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If you have one of these sockets in 7/16" and a long extension,it'll make your day go a lot better installing the bottom row of bolts .With this style socket you can reach through the tubes and get at the bottom bolts with a socket.An impact swivel socket is to bulky and won't quite latch onto the bolt heads ,at least that's what I've found on my 1 7/8" JBA's.

https://www.bing.com/images/search?view=detailV2&ccid=LHo4BH3h&id=EC701BDBADD145E9F2E219BCCF23E4AE6875FA4B&thid=OIP.LHo4BH3hHOok0BSZ9N47jQHaC2&mediaurl=http://i.ebayimg.com/images/i/361450027373-0-1/s-l1000.jpg&exph=386&expw=1000&q=Snap-on+7/16+flexible++socket&simid=607999992997872146&selectedIndex=18&ajaxhist=0
Should be a 10mm socket for 8mm x 1.25 header hex bolt
 

Tim Garceau

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Yeah lots of flex sockets and pivoting, ratchet-wrenches.

Was only able to get the electric driver in enough nooks and crannies to spin off about half of them.

24” Long, 1/4” drive extension is a back-saver.

If you have the truck on a lift, it’ll cut your time in half easily.
 

Wild one

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Should be a 10mm socket for 8mm x 1.25 header hex bolt

My 7/16's fits the Stage 8 and JBA bolt mix on my long tubes.I don't have that socket in 10mm,but have it in 7/16's,and it works pretty good,lol.
 
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Propanedr

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Ill post an update soon. Im gathering all my parts and looks like ill be adding a few new tools to my collection.

On the header bolts where they bolt to the heads. Do you guys recommend using any lock-tite ? or Anti-Seize on them before i install them ?
 

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