Australian 4th Generation modifications

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HK1837

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I picked up a new Laramie bar complete locally. It was raining so picture not so good:

Laramie Bar chrome.jpg

I managed to order a new top plastic piece from the USA. Just have to get the few other unique bits that aren't on my Express, then I'll order the Vice Designs hidden winch setup and modify this bar. I'm going to get it painted white and put some dummy parking sensors in the holes.
 
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HK1837

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Now for oil. I have Redline 5W-20 and RP 10-48 ready to go, however I can't use this Redline oil so early in the engine life so need an alternative.

I want to change out the factory fill oil and filter at about 1000-1200 miles (about 1800-2000kM). I don't want to let it run until the first service at 12 months or 12000kM. Besides the Australian supplement to the service books states for the 5.7L Hemi:

Change engine oil and filter at 12months or 7500kM (4500miles) if using the vehicle under any of the severe duty conditions listed below:

Stop and Go driving.
Driving in dusty conditions.
Short trips of less than 16kM.
Trailer towing.
Commercial use.
Off road or desert operation.

So I think I'm justified in changing out the factory oil reasonably early!

The problem is I cannot buy a factory 5W-20 oil that meets MS-6395 in Australia except for the full synthetic Penrite in the link below. The supplied service book says Mopar, Pennzoil and Shell Helix, none of which are obtainable here. I can get the Mopar oil via Ebay and Amazon from the UK or USA but 10L will cost about $250US! And take 6 weeks or more to get here.


I really don't want to use a full synthetic even if its only a GroupIII oil this early in the engine life. I know meeting MS-6395 doesn't really mean much, but for warranty purposes in the early life of the vehicle it might.

I also talked to the dealer to see what they use. For ALL Rams they use Castrol 0W-20 which is a full synthetic oil. I did point out to them that it doesn't meet the grade specified in any manuals, but it does meet MS-6395 (see next link).


So after some research I found a locally available semi-synthetic 5W-30 oil that is higher zinc than most comparable oils in its market, and it is compliant with MS-6395. Penrite Vantage 5W-30:


Has significantly higher viscosity at 100degC than the 5W-20 Penrite full synthetic (here is the similar datasheet):


The main reason I don't want to use 5W-20 at all is in Australia we can get summer days exceeding 45degC (113F), and I do tow regularly but normally less than 2500kg (5500lb). This summer has been very mild with not many days over 30degC (86F). When I last drove to Adelaide towing a trailer it was about 43degC for hours on end. I doubt this truck will see much in the way of severe duty on this interim 5W-30 semi-synthetic, and it will have Redline in it once it gets to 10,000kM.

I guess if I get in any warranty based arguments about grade, I can tell the dealer, just like them I am using an MS-6395 compliant oil that covers the 5W-20 grades (me 5W-30, them 0W-20). Of course if it starts to tick I'll change it for something else.
 
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GTyankee

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You asked about the fender flares
Usually they supply tape to stick to the fender flares, so that the flares do not ruin the paint too much.
when i last had flares, i had to stretch the tape, they did not give me any extra to work with
 
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HK1837

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I changed the oil and filter yesterday at just over 1700kM.

The factory fill oil that came out didn't look all that pretty. Draining the oil is a snack but what sort of idiot designed that oil filter location? What a ***** to remove! No room for an oil filter nut, so had to use a band, even that was awful hard to get around the filter and when I did I swear the original filter was only hand tight. With use of a flexi-funnel it came off without too much mess, but it is a mission to manoeuvre the filter to get it out.

Half filled the new filter with the 5W-30 Penrite Vantage oil (from two posts up) and reversed the painful operation. Man is it hard to get a full 3/4 turn on the filter.

I used a Ryco synthetic filter:


Started up nice and quiet, no lifter tick at all. Has more stable oil pressure too. At 40degC it is about 410kPA (60psi) at idle and when around 90-100degC stays over 350kPA.

This oil and filter will stay now until 10,000km (6000miles) and be changed fro Redline 5W-30 and an RP filter (if they ever turn up).
 

Jendsley06

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I watched with great interest some video of the conversion company. Quite impressive. They really have taken over a little where Australia lost their own manufacturing. Lots of quality work goes into it all. One question is radio frequencies. Are they same down there? Is there reprogramming for aus? We also all get serious XM, and I assume it won't work there either. Good looking rig.
 
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HK1837

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The brains behind the conversion process is the same Company that was HSV. If you Google what HSV was and what they built you'll get an idea. They were a separate "manufacturer" a lot like AMG is to Mercedes. Especially their final builds based upon the final Holden products like the LSA fitted vehicles. ASV converts Camaro, Silverado and Ram and HSV sell Camaro and Silverado whereas the Ram's are done under contract for Ateco in Australia.



They are different radio frequencies. The radios are programmed for Australia. I currently have a UAS that was programmed by Infotainment for Australia, dude over here bought it and then used an aftermarket one. I bought it and a dual zone bezel very cheaply. Haven't fitted it as yet. I was going to try and buy an Aussie UJQ out of a wreck but will see how the UAS goes with Apple Carplay and nave on the iphone first.

One of these turned up today:


I'll fit it and a twin piston ARB compressor behind the battery.

Here are two battery boxes mounted at the front of the tub. One will hold a 175Ah Lithium dual BMS that can give me 150A continuous, and an Enerdrive 40A dcdc. The other will have a 2000W Inverter fitted in it.

Battery boxes.JPG
Battery boxes 1.JPG


Items as per below links:

dcdc: https://enerdrive.com.au/product/12v-40a-dc2dc-battery-charger/

Inverter: https://enerdrive.com.au/product/ep...wave-inverter-with-ac-transfer-safety-switch/

175Ah battery: https://www.aussiebatteries.com.au/atlas-175ah-12v-double-bms-prismatic-lithium-batte
 
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GTyankee

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I just did a bit of reading about Australia radio
Only 1 AM station
Sirius XM is blocked, whatever that means

They have several FM stations

Some Australian member on here spoke about
DAB & DAB+
Digital Audio Broadcasting

For the more technical at heart, a DAB audio signal essentially gets encoded in MP2, (an MPEG audio format), while DAB+ gets encoded in AAC+, a more efficient codec that makes the audio sound even better at lower bit-rates.
 
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HK1837

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I finally got around to fitting the 8.4" screen today. The interim mod is I bought one of the Infotainment replacement fascias to suit the original MTC controls with the 8.4" screen (I got the one without the volume knob as I also fitted the steering wheel controls a few weeks ago). Very simple mod.

Firsty I used the serial number off the radio to get the unlock code online, it is a 68306660AR radio with firmware ROW IR21.8. When I got the code back the site told me it was a UJQ radio which piqued my interest as the radio fitted to a 2021 Quad cab delivered new in Australia (which has an 8.4 uConnect with NAV) is a 68461702AC and is also a UJQ.

So it's a very easy change. Disconnect the battery, two screws up the top, pull the fascia out and disconnect a few cables. 4 x 7mm screws and the RA2 comes out. 4 x plugs undone and the 8.4 UJQ connects straight up to the existing plugs using the same 4 x screws as the RA2.

Spent 15 minutes unscrewing the original bezel, move the MTC controls over to the Infotainment surround, screw the new bezel into the surround and plug back into the car. Battery re-connected, turn on the ignition. Up comes the Ram logo, tune the radio in. All good. And voila it has Nav and it works! I thought it was a non-Nav radio but apparently not.

This weekend I'll change the jump seat hub over as Apple carplay doesn't work.

Will add photos when done.

The radio has one round connector not used. It is a burgundy colour. It has the hub connector, the ********* plug, a white one for the rear view camera and a blue one for the antenna. The burgandy one is the 4th one from the left. Goes left to right looking from the back: None White None Burgundy Black (rectangle unused) Blue. There is also another connector unused similar to the grey hub connector that is black too.

The maps are a bit old, Q2 2017 but that is easy to fix.
 
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HK1837

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Anyone know how to get into Dealer Mode on an 8.4 uConnect screen if you only have MTC dials?
 
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