As promised here is the radio change. I won't bother going through all the steps as there are heaps of tutorials online for how to do those. These are just a few extra hints.
Here is the original dash and radio:
I took the bezel off following Youtube videos, easy as. Unplugged and unbolted the original RA2 and the donor UJQ (Australian UAQ) connected straight up. I only had the 4 plugs to worry about. See RA2 picture below and the new RA4 the three images below that:
Here is the rear of the centre dash with the Infotainment bezel next to it. 2nd image is the bezel changed over. WORD OF CAUTION. See the very bottom of the Infotainment bezel? The factory screws are slightly too long for that very bottom middle hole. Grind the tip off the screw before putting back in. I backed the screw off and it looks normal now, but as I'm changing to ATC later it doesn't really bother me:
Steering wheel controls are simple, other than getting the steering wheel off. I had to buy a 75mm 2 jaw inside puller like the reversible jaw one below and grind the backs off the fingers so they'd fit the slots in the steering wheel:
I bought one of these for the airbag tool, it was cheap off Amazon but in North America they are about $12 direct from Lisle:
Wheel back on with volume buttons shown:
The only other bit of heads up advice. You have to change the hub in the jumpseat. Mike (MpGrimm2) has a Youtube video on how to do this. If you have a 2018+ that already has the right shape hub in place (like below) meaning you don't have to change the seat insert, you do not have to pull the whole thing apart like Mike shows in the video where he changes the insert. All you have to do is remove the front cup holder surround and rubber insert, and pull the fabric up on the RHS of the seat. You can get to the clips on the top of the hub using holes above it and a small seal picking tool. The top of the hub then comes out. Keep it there (don't allow it to clip back in place). With the fabric folded back you can get your fingers or a flat screwdriver between the seat foam and the hub and release the clips on the bottom of the hub, the hub then will pull out. Unplug the cables and plug them into the new hub to suit Carplay and plug it back in place. Saves you having to undo all the hinges and screws and pull all the fabric off.
Next step is the single zone ATC conversion. Then wait for someone over here to write off a Crew Cab Express 2019-2022 Classic so I can get the dual zone HVAC air box out of it.
Great to see another Aussie on here. I'm in Southern NSW and Ive got a Crew Cab, but i had a Quad up until January when I sold it. Does the airbag tool make it easier to get it off? Ive got the steering wheel controls here ready to go but didnt have the patience when i tried to get the bag off. Might have to grab one of those tools.
Airbag is easy with that tool, takes a few minutes to get the method but not hard at all. It is not in stock on Amazon at the moment but might get it off Ebay, although I noticed fishpond.com.au have it for $AUD39.95 with free delivery. The steering wheel is the issue. As I said in the post I bought a cheap 2 jaw reversible puller and ground it down so it'd fit in the steering wheel slots. You'll see what I mean once you get the airbag off. Pictures below of the modified puller, you can see I had to take the tips off and grind the back of the hooks to get them into the slots in the steering wheel. Even doing this, I had to pull the puller apart to get the hooks into the slots, then put it together to do the job, then pull it apart again once the steering wheel was off. Most of these pullers have a point on them, you need a thick washer under the point or it will start digging into the steering shaft thread. A tip - watch a video on Youtube first to get visual clues of what is required. 2nd tip - when all done put the wheel on by hand and put the bolt on lightly, then test drive and make sure the wheel is centred correctly, then do the bolt up tight or move the wheel a spline or two to get it right.
The rest is easy other than making sure the clock spring remains in place when you pull the wheel off. You don't have to remove the front plastics off the wheel, just the rear and pay attention to where the original harness is clipped in the plastic, and copy it with the new harness in the new rear piece with the buttons in it. The buttons only fit one way so you can't get them mixed up. I'd also mark the shaft and the wheel clearly so the wheel goes back on the exact splines it came off.
A tip - watch a video on Youtube first to get visual clues of what is required. 2nd tip - when all done put the wheel on by hand and put the bolt on lightly, then test drive and make sure the wheel is centred correctly, then do the bolt up tight or move the wheel a spline or two to get it right.
I've got a few other interesting mods to make over the next few months, like a Murchison stainless battery tray with ARB dual piston compressor on it behind the battery, AMP research power steps and a few other little tweaks.
I'll probably drive right by you in a few weeks when I drive down the Melbourne to get the SnugTop canopy fitted.
The prices on Rams here in Australia are crazy at the moment! I ordered mine in April 2021 and it was delivered in January this year, it was $79995 drive away. ASV have stopped converting Quad cabs but there were a few cancelled orders and the dealers still have the cars. They are listing them for about $109,000 as demos and that is plus rego transfer fee and stamp duty! YOu can order a new Crew cab for about $100k but they are selling for $25k more than that as low kM used cars.
I put the new battery tray in today. I didn't take photos of pulling the old plastic one out, but it is just bolts, battery and unclip the fuse box. Plus disconnect the 0V link to the chassis. You have to remove the plastic inner guard to get underneath the plastic tray to undo the A/C lines and the bolts underneath.
Here is the new stainless one in place. It has holes and clips for everything:
You can fit two N70 batteries East-West. Or it is drilled to fit the original battery plus an ARB dual piston compressor which is what I'm doing. You can see the compressor mounting holes to the right of the battery in the image and further down in the second last image I have sat the compressor in place. You can also see where the 0V battery lead was too short, so I just bolted it to the side of the battery tray and made a short lead up to go from the other side of the tray to the original attachment point:
Compressor in place. I have pre-drilled the tray to mount a 200A 12V relay to run the compressor and also a 100A relay to connect to the dc-dc converter that will be in the tub with a 175Ah Lithium battery.
This marine fuse block will mount where I'm holding it. Has 3 x midi fuses plus 4 x blades in it. The dc-dc will be fed from a 70A fuse, and the pair of compressors will have a fuse each. The smaller blade fuses will be for light bar and other smaller loads.
The only other thing I need to make is a little angle bracket at the back of the battery tray for the second inner guard attachment screw, it is the only thing missing off the tray. The plastic inner guard needs a fraction more support in that area. And I'll put a piece of insertion rubber under the battery clamp - it is a fraction too close to the + terminal for my liking. Just in case the battery moves for some reason. I'll glue it under the battery clamp
I may change direction on the front bar and winch. Ironman just released this in the last week. Integrates a 12000lb winch, 32" light bar and 4 x cube lights. Has a few captive nuts along the top too for extra lights or similar.
EDIT - I just ordered this bar with a 12000lb winch, 32" 300W light bar and the little cube lights in the ends. The yellow ones will be spots and the clear ones flood lights. They come in either 20W or 40W each.
I had a look at how the factory fog lights and running lights connect and how big they are. I have a spare harness in the Laramie bar (see post 11), so I can cut the plug off the fog light harness and the plugs off the DRL harnesses so I can patch those cube lights into the factory harness. So question is:
Little DRL lamps are 5W each and the fog lamps are 51W each. If I use 20W for the white DRL floods and 40W for the yellow (fog) spots will the car get cranky at me as the wattages are out a bit?
I'll use a patch off the LH headlight to get the high beam volts to run the coil of a relay to drive the 300W light bar.