Australian 4th Generation modifications

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HK1837

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Not sure if this is in the right section. Mods please move if not!

I thought I'd start a thread I can add to as I do more to it to help out Australians with 4th Generation Ram 1500. My Ram is coming in January and I've been buying up bits to fit it.

Vehicle:

My Ram as ordered is a 1500 Classic Express Quad Cab 4x4 in Bright White. Optioned (in US terms but they all are like this over here) with 5.7 Hemi, 8HP70 auto, 3.92 rear axle, 32 gallon fuel tank, Express Value Package (20x8 silver wheels, floor carpet, remote keyless entry, cloth 40/20/40 front seat, dual exhaust), Trailer Tow Group (minus the power mirrors). I believe it is a 2021 build, it was converted to RHD on 6th December and will be delivered in the first week of January. Hopefully it is not a 2022 as these don't come with dual exhaust as part of the Express Value package.

So far I have bought for it:

Tough Dog 2" suspension lift with rear air bags.
American Outlaw Legacy wheels in 18x9.
295/70/18 AT tyres.
uConnect 8.4 screen for an Australian vehicle and dual zone bezel.
Harnesses and parts from M2mods (thanks Mike!) for the screen and single zone ATC conversion.
Alfa OBD and MX+ OBDlink plus security bypass cable (again from M2mods).
Steering wheel volume control parts.
AMP research powered steps (hardwired versions, PnP won't work on RHD vehicles).
AMP research dual exhaust bed step.
Genuine front mudflaps.
Genuine rubber slush mats.
Genuine door weathershields.
Snugtop Rebel canopy (on the way) with lift up side and front windows, central locking and heavy duty roof.

I also plan to get a dual zone HVAC box out of a wrecked Australian DS Laramie, Warlock or Express Crew Cab and do that conversion. Mike already put the extra connector on my harness for the second blend door.

As I add mods that are specifically different to LHD vehicles I'll take photos and add info/hassles.

Also getting some sheepskin seat covers made, fitting a GME UHF with remote head, stainless dual battery tray in teh engine bay (for a compressor rather than a battery (see link)), dual 150Ah AGM slim batteries at the front of the tray so I can run 24Vdc for a 2000W Inverter, mount my Engel 40L fridge in the back and fit a higher voltage solar panel to the roof of the canopy. Plus ePower dcdc converter and inverter.

 

Dredger

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. . . it was converted to RHD . . .
Curious if you know anything about this conversion - is it a big job? Seems like it would be. Also, how much does it add to the price of the truck? One other question while I'm here, how can you not be certain what year you're receiving?
I don't know what I'd do if I didn't have a door for my left arm to rest on :p
 
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HK1837

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There is some words here about it and also a video of the process. They are done very well, in the same facility that converts Silverado for sale by HSV.



The video is a conversion of a 2500 but the 1500 is very similar, only it has a flipped steering rack instead of a box.

Most of the US style trucks we got here after the 80's were factory LHD then converted to RHD. The F250's sold new here between 2002-2007 were converted to RHD in Brazil. The GMC Suburbans were converted to RHD Holden Suburbans in Mexico. The GMC standard cabs were converted locally for Ambulance duty. These Rams and the new Silverados are proper remanufacture rather than conversion. Walkinshaw (part owners of ASV) are also doing Camaro and I have heard they have done deals to do conversions for the middle east.

I priced up the identical spec 1500 to how mine is to be for Califonia delivery. It was about $US43,000 plus on roads, which right now is about $AU60,000. Mine delivered, registered including local taxes is $AUD79,995.

The reason I don't know what it is, is I ordered it in May 2021 and it was converted on December 6th 2021. They take about 3 months to get here so I don't know if its a July 2021 build (which is a 2021 model) or an August-Sept 2021 build which is normally a 2022 model but given all the semi-conductor delays they had a lot of 2021 semi-completed and this might be one of them or it may be a 2022. The US Ram website still has specs on it for both 2021 and 2022 models when you go through the "build" process.
 

Dredger

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Thank you @HK1837. This was all very informative, and I appreciate the time you have taken to let me know. Here's hoping your truck's a 2022 at the 2021 price :cool:.
 
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HK1837

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I have a feeling it will be a 2021 model build that was completed after August 2021. It will be complianced in Australia in 12/2021 and won't wear any US identification anyway. The only thing that bothers me is Stellantis/Ram dropped the dual exhaust off the Express Value Package for 2022 model year.

Here are some more stuff. The first photo is the identical Ram to what I'll be getting delivered, that has been lifted 2-3", fitted with the same American Outlaw Legacy 18x9 wheels and what are I believe 295/70/18 tyres.

Second photo and the link below is the front winch bar I have ordered. Takes a 12500lb winch, rego plate has a hinged bracket to hide the rope and head. It looks ugly in black in teh link but looks far nicer in white as per the Crew Cab photo.

Quad cab with Legacy wheels.jpg

Rhino bar.jpg

 
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HK1837

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My new Ram is in the showroom. Picking it up on Friday, straight to get 2" suspension upgrade with rear airbags and the 18x9 American Outlaw rims and tyres fitted. So these are the "before" photos.

Ram in showroom 1.JPGRam in showroom 2.JPGRam in showroom 3.JPGRam in showroom 4.JPG
 
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HK1837

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Here it is getting picked up last Friday:

Delivery.JPG

Dropped off for suspension and tyres/wheels 10 minutes away:

Before.JPG

Same afternoon:
After.JPG

The new wheels are the same offset as the originals (18P) but are 18x9 rather than the original 20x8. New tyres are 295/70/18, originals are 275/60/20.

Supposed to be a 2" lift, although the front has come up 3" as it has springs to suit a lightweight bar and winch.

In theory new tyres are 38mm in OD larger. I put it on a chassis dyno today to check the speedo, it is dead spot on at 60, 80, 100 and 110km/h, took a video of the dyno readout at the same time the km/h were displayed on the dash.

Only problem now is calcs say that the wheels are only 1/2" either side of centre wider than the originals (same 18P offset), and the tyres are 10mm wider either side of centre (295 vs 275). However the passenger (LHS) front tyre tread is dead flush with the guard/fender. The driver side (RHS), the tyre tread sticks out about 10mm (3/8"). Not sure why, going to check to make sure I don't have a different offset wheel on it somehow.

However, standard Laramie wheel arch flares will fix it and I'm happy just to run them on the front. Does anyone know if those in the attached link (Ebay auction is only for one corner, however it shows the pictures of the whole lot), do they attach using the screws under the lip with some tape around the perimeter? I don't want to drill holes.

 

Mpgrimm2

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Bump.... & Subbed to see your build.
 
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HK1837

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Thanks Mike. Coming along slowly.

I had these made and fitted a few days ago, full Sheepskin covers:
Seat covers.JPG

I've also started working on the AMP Research power steps installation. For an Australian install on a 4th gen 1500/2500/3500 you have to buy the hardwired versions (part number 75138-01A REV B) as the Plug and Play version won't work properly on a RHD vehicle.
So I have been doing the bits that I can do a bit at a time without committing to a full install on the day. The front mount already has a strengthening plate, the rear I had to remove the factory riv-nuts and install the supplied strengthening plates and new riv-nuts. Wasn't too careful with the zinc-rich paint I used to cover the hole I had to drill (for the rivet) or where I'd chipped the paint removing the factory riv-nuts.
Front (you can see the welded nuts and plate there already, I still have to remove the tie-down point you can see in the image):
Front support.JPG

Rear, strengthening plate behind (rivet in centre holds it in place) plus the new riv-nuts:
Rear support.JPG

I didn't take photos of the relocated handbrake cable or the underbody plug on the LH side of the vehicle, but here are shots from the installation manual:
plug.jpg
handbrake.jpg

Plan to do the other bits where I can do and stop, like run the harness, mount the control module, attach to the battery, splice to the cabin harness door-open wires and install the under-sill step lights. Plus cut the steps down to the right length for the Quad cab. Then when I get a clear, cool day I can mount the motors and fit the steps in a short period.
 
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HK1837

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One the steps are done Mike, it will be time for the steering wheel volume controls and fitting the Aussie UAS with your harnesses and equipment, so I can at least get Carplay working for navigation off my iPhone.
 
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HK1837

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I picked up a new Laramie bar complete locally. It was raining so picture not so good:

Laramie Bar chrome.jpg

I managed to order a new top plastic piece from the USA. Just have to get the few other unique bits that aren't on my Express, then I'll order the Vice Designs hidden winch setup and modify this bar. I'm going to get it painted white and put some dummy parking sensors in the holes.
 
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HK1837

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Now for oil. I have Redline 5W-20 and RP 10-48 ready to go, however I can't use this Redline oil so early in the engine life so need an alternative.

I want to change out the factory fill oil and filter at about 1000-1200 miles (about 1800-2000kM). I don't want to let it run until the first service at 12 months or 12000kM. Besides the Australian supplement to the service books states for the 5.7L Hemi:

Change engine oil and filter at 12months or 7500kM (4500miles) if using the vehicle under any of the severe duty conditions listed below:

Stop and Go driving.
Driving in dusty conditions.
Short trips of less than 16kM.
Trailer towing.
Commercial use.
Off road or desert operation.

So I think I'm justified in changing out the factory oil reasonably early!

The problem is I cannot buy a factory 5W-20 oil that meets MS-6395 in Australia except for the full synthetic Penrite in the link below. The supplied service book says Mopar, Pennzoil and Shell Helix, none of which are obtainable here. I can get the Mopar oil via Ebay and Amazon from the UK or USA but 10L will cost about $250US! And take 6 weeks or more to get here.


I really don't want to use a full synthetic even if its only a GroupIII oil this early in the engine life. I know meeting MS-6395 doesn't really mean much, but for warranty purposes in the early life of the vehicle it might.

I also talked to the dealer to see what they use. For ALL Rams they use Castrol 0W-20 which is a full synthetic oil. I did point out to them that it doesn't meet the grade specified in any manuals, but it does meet MS-6395 (see next link).


So after some research I found a locally available semi-synthetic 5W-30 oil that is higher zinc than most comparable oils in its market, and it is compliant with MS-6395. Penrite Vantage 5W-30:


Has significantly higher viscosity at 100degC than the 5W-20 Penrite full synthetic (here is the similar datasheet):


The main reason I don't want to use 5W-20 at all is in Australia we can get summer days exceeding 45degC (113F), and I do tow regularly but normally less than 2500kg (5500lb). This summer has been very mild with not many days over 30degC (86F). When I last drove to Adelaide towing a trailer it was about 43degC for hours on end. I doubt this truck will see much in the way of severe duty on this interim 5W-30 semi-synthetic, and it will have Redline in it once it gets to 10,000kM.

I guess if I get in any warranty based arguments about grade, I can tell the dealer, just like them I am using an MS-6395 compliant oil that covers the 5W-20 grades (me 5W-30, them 0W-20). Of course if it starts to tick I'll change it for something else.
 
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GTyankee

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You asked about the fender flares
Usually they supply tape to stick to the fender flares, so that the flares do not ruin the paint too much.
when i last had flares, i had to stretch the tape, they did not give me any extra to work with
 
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HK1837

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I changed the oil and filter yesterday at just over 1700kM.

The factory fill oil that came out didn't look all that pretty. Draining the oil is a snack but what sort of idiot designed that oil filter location? What a ***** to remove! No room for an oil filter nut, so had to use a band, even that was awful hard to get around the filter and when I did I swear the original filter was only hand tight. With use of a flexi-funnel it came off without too much mess, but it is a mission to manoeuvre the filter to get it out.

Half filled the new filter with the 5W-30 Penrite Vantage oil (from two posts up) and reversed the painful operation. Man is it hard to get a full 3/4 turn on the filter.

I used a Ryco synthetic filter:


Started up nice and quiet, no lifter tick at all. Has more stable oil pressure too. At 40degC it is about 410kPA (60psi) at idle and when around 90-100degC stays over 350kPA.

This oil and filter will stay now until 10,000km (6000miles) and be changed fro Redline 5W-30 and an RP filter (if they ever turn up).
 

Jendsley06

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I watched with great interest some video of the conversion company. Quite impressive. They really have taken over a little where Australia lost their own manufacturing. Lots of quality work goes into it all. One question is radio frequencies. Are they same down there? Is there reprogramming for aus? We also all get serious XM, and I assume it won't work there either. Good looking rig.
 
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HK1837

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The brains behind the conversion process is the same Company that was HSV. If you Google what HSV was and what they built you'll get an idea. They were a separate "manufacturer" a lot like AMG is to Mercedes. Especially their final builds based upon the final Holden products like the LSA fitted vehicles. ASV converts Camaro, Silverado and Ram and HSV sell Camaro and Silverado whereas the Ram's are done under contract for Ateco in Australia.



They are different radio frequencies. The radios are programmed for Australia. I currently have a UAS that was programmed by Infotainment for Australia, dude over here bought it and then used an aftermarket one. I bought it and a dual zone bezel very cheaply. Haven't fitted it as yet. I was going to try and buy an Aussie UJQ out of a wreck but will see how the UAS goes with Apple Carplay and nave on the iphone first.

One of these turned up today:


I'll fit it and a twin piston ARB compressor behind the battery.

Here are two battery boxes mounted at the front of the tub. One will hold a 175Ah Lithium dual BMS that can give me 150A continuous, and an Enerdrive 40A dcdc. The other will have a 2000W Inverter fitted in it.

Battery boxes.JPG
Battery boxes 1.JPG


Items as per below links:

dcdc: https://enerdrive.com.au/product/12v-40a-dc2dc-battery-charger/

Inverter: https://enerdrive.com.au/product/ep...wave-inverter-with-ac-transfer-safety-switch/

175Ah battery: https://www.aussiebatteries.com.au/atlas-175ah-12v-double-bms-prismatic-lithium-batte
 
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GTyankee

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I just did a bit of reading about Australia radio
Only 1 AM station
Sirius XM is blocked, whatever that means

They have several FM stations

Some Australian member on here spoke about
DAB & DAB+
Digital Audio Broadcasting

For the more technical at heart, a DAB audio signal essentially gets encoded in MP2, (an MPEG audio format), while DAB+ gets encoded in AAC+, a more efficient codec that makes the audio sound even better at lower bit-rates.
 
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HK1837

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I finally got around to fitting the 8.4" screen today. The interim mod is I bought one of the Infotainment replacement fascias to suit the original MTC controls with the 8.4" screen (I got the one without the volume knob as I also fitted the steering wheel controls a few weeks ago). Very simple mod.

Firsty I used the serial number off the radio to get the unlock code online, it is a 68306660AR radio with firmware ROW IR21.8. When I got the code back the site told me it was a UJQ radio which piqued my interest as the radio fitted to a 2021 Quad cab delivered new in Australia (which has an 8.4 uConnect with NAV) is a 68461702AC and is also a UJQ.

So it's a very easy change. Disconnect the battery, two screws up the top, pull the fascia out and disconnect a few cables. 4 x 7mm screws and the RA2 comes out. 4 x plugs undone and the 8.4 UJQ connects straight up to the existing plugs using the same 4 x screws as the RA2.

Spent 15 minutes unscrewing the original bezel, move the MTC controls over to the Infotainment surround, screw the new bezel into the surround and plug back into the car. Battery re-connected, turn on the ignition. Up comes the Ram logo, tune the radio in. All good. And voila it has Nav and it works! I thought it was a non-Nav radio but apparently not.

This weekend I'll change the jump seat hub over as Apple carplay doesn't work.

Will add photos when done.

The radio has one round connector not used. It is a burgundy colour. It has the hub connector, the ********* plug, a white one for the rear view camera and a blue one for the antenna. The burgandy one is the 4th one from the left. Goes left to right looking from the back: None White None Burgundy Black (rectangle unused) Blue. There is also another connector unused similar to the grey hub connector that is black too.

The maps are a bit old, Q2 2017 but that is easy to fix.
 
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HK1837

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Anyone know how to get into Dealer Mode on an 8.4 uConnect screen if you only have MTC dials?
 

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