Aux Switch Panel Placement

[trdt44]

So if you get these switches added you still have to program the truck that they are there??

I have found that in the previous Ram version is that they will work without the programming. The default is Aux 1 & 2 can be turned on anytime and 3-5 are ignition only. To modify this then the aux switch menu needs to be turned on. I am assuming that the '19s are going to be similar.

 

[Maligator]

From what I gather and what it looks like is the 4th gen ram electronics aux switches function completely independent of your factory wiring. The switch wires on the panel they supply run directly to their custom made relay/fuse box and to your accessories.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

 

[trdt44]

From what I gather and what it looks like is the 4th gen ram electronics aux switches function completely independent of your factory wiring. The switch wires on the panel they supply run directly to their custom made relay/fuse box and to your accessories.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

That is correct. That really is the only way to do it unless a lot of money is spent and the wiring harness is replaced. On trucks without the OE aux switch option the wiring from the back of the switch bank for the switches is not there. The factory relay box (Aux PDC) is only available with a wiring harness. I have spent a ton of time reviewing wiring diagrams and parts list trying to come with a more oem solution. As I mentioned earlier I have settled on making my own wire harness and using an aftermarket relay/fuse panel. I have all the parts compiled to make a plug and play harness just like 4th gen electronics. I even found wire that matches the OEM colors.

 

[SeaSickSailor]

I have the Switch-Pros 9100. Works great. I haven’t got all the lights I want yet but I’m ready for them. I think that the switch panel looks good in Natasha.

 

[Trailmaker]

I have the Switch-Pros 9100. Works great. I haven’t got all the lights I want yet but I’m ready for them. I think that the switch panel looks good in Natasha.
View attachment 195412 View attachment 195413 View attachment 195414

Where did you mount your ARB compressor?

 

[SeaSickSailor]

It’s centerline under the middle of the truck. It was installed by the dealership before I picked up the truck. That and the dual battery system.

 

[mtnrider]

I used a Ford aux switch pod and mounted it in the empty panel on the lower left dash.

 

[olyelr]

It’s centerline under the middle of the truck. It was installed by the dealership before I picked up the truck. That and the dual battery system.

You gotta be ******** me! Your dealer must be very much different than most of the others out there!

 

[SeaSickSailor]

You gotta be ******** me! Your dealer must be very much different than most of the others out there!

Well, I did have to pay for it. They also installed my White Knuckle rock sliders that I had ordered and had delivered to the dealership.

 

[olyelr]

Well, I did have to pay for it. They also installed my White Knuckle rock sliders that I had ordered and had delivered to the dealership.

Yea, that's frikin awesome. Please share what dealer you are using.

 

[BoldAdventure]

I used a Ford aux switch pod and mounted it in the empty panel on the lower left dash.

View attachment 195433

What's that up on the dash by the steering wheel? Another switch?

 

[olyelr]

What's that up on the dash by the steering wheel? Another switch?

Thats the muffler bearing switch... each time its depressed it sends a shot of fluid film into the muffler bearings.

 

[mtnrider]

What's that up on the dash by the steering wheel? Another switch?

Yeah, I originally only had one light bar and put a single switch there. I have since put an actuator in my tailgate and use that switch to drop the tailgate.


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[mtnrider]

Thats the muffler bearing switch... each time its depressed it sends a shot of fluid film into the muffler bearings.

Passenger seat ejection button, for that friend that just won't stop talking.. Lol

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[SeaSickSailor]

Yea, that's frikin awesome. Please share what dealer you are using.

That was Northwest dealership in Beaverton, Or. The Parts manager, John Nees, did all the purchases and only charged me their cost. I did pay labor.

 

[56PW17]

Yeah, I originally only had one light bar and put a single switch there. I have since put an actuator in my tailgate and use that switch to drop the tailgate.

link to a product? Does it go up and down or only one direction? Need to know more about this???

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[mtnrider]

link to a product? Does it go up and down or only one direction? Need to know more about this???

It only goes down. You have to piece the parts together but let me see if I can find a post that has some pictures and info. Unfortunately I didn't take any. Should have and done a write up on it.

I originally had it set up with a PAC TR7 universal trigger module so I could use a keyfob to drop it (3 press's of the door unlock would open the tailgate) However, because the newer truck's use a PWM 12v signal it was not consistent in interpreting the clicks and didn't work all the time or would drop it after 1 press so had to disconnect it. That was really neat when it worked.

This is the actuator I used. Basically you attach this to the rods that come off the tailgate handle on the inside. Wire it to a relay and switch, when you press the button the actuator pushes the rod and opens the tail gate. Also have a Dezee? hydraulic tailgate assist so it doesn't slam down.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009SWLE6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[Trailmaker]

It only goes down. You have to piece the parts together but let me see if I can find a post that has some pictures and info. Unfortunately I didn't take any. Should have and done a write up on it.

I originally had it set up with a PAC TR7 universal trigger module so I could use a keyfob to drop it (3 press's of the door unlock would open the tailgate) However, because the newer truck's use a PWM 12v signal it was not consistent in interpreting the clicks and didn't work all the time or would drop it after 1 press so had to disconnect it. That was really neat when it worked.

This is the actuator I used. Basically you attach this to the rods that come off the tailgate handle on the inside. Wire it to a relay and switch, when you press the button the actuator pushes the rod and opens the tail gate. Also have a Dezee? hydraulic tailgate assist so it doesn't slam down.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009SWLE6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

with a 2019 or 20 key fob you can control it? maybe? I don't use mine every day but when I do, it is a nice feature to have.

 

[mtnrider]

with a 2019 or 20 key fob you can control it? maybe? I don't use mine every day but when I do, it is a nice feature to have.

I was using my 2016 keyfob and a PAC TR7 trigger. But like I said it didn't work consistently because the new trucks use a PWM 12v signal to unlock the doors (what I was triggering off) instead of a steady state 12v so the TR7 had a hard time interpreting the pulses.
This setup would work on older trucks, probably 2013 and older I would guess? Not sure when they went to PWM control voltage though?

I don't think a 19-20 key would work for me since the RF hub is different and it would not read the extra button function?

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[Trailmaker]

I was using my 2016 keyfob and a PAC TR7 trigger. But like I said it didn't work consistently because the new trucks use a PWM 12v signal to unlock the doors (what I was triggering off) instead of a steady state 12v so the TR7 had a hard time interpreting the pulses.
This setup would work on older trucks, probably 2013 and older I would guess? Not sure when they went to PWM control voltage though?

I don't think a 19-20 key would work for me since the RF hub is different and it would not read the extra button function?

.

oh yeah, you are right. the new key fob could not be used. but a viper one could. it will do a steady state 12v