Back to the ol' alternator issue.....

[Ribtipram]

Does that year have a battery temp/current sensor?not sure if that would cause a growl

 

[turkeybird56]

With the engine running, carefully take your hand and feel all the wires from the battery and alternator that carry heavy current. Both positive and negative. Feel for any hot spots, bulges, etc. Also look at the red cables carefully to see if any of them are discolored in spots or sections. I have had 2 cases in my 40+ years working cars where a cable was fatigued by engine vibration. It looked good from the outside but the copper conductor inside was broken. When it was a ground cable it was cool near the battery and almost burned my hand when I got to the area where it was broken. The other case with the red cable, it was bright red up until the point it had a break and was a dark red around that point.

PS. they can test good with a meter when the engine is off but once the engine is running you get intermittent opens, high resistance and normal capacity randomly. Also have the battery tested. It may be only 3 months old but if it sat at or near 0 volts for even a short period of time, sulfation can short one or more cells.

PPS. You can also try bypassing all the ground cables with the black lead from a jumper cable by hooking one end to the battery negative post and the other end to the engine block or alternator bracket. If this works one of your ground cables is faulty.

ALL also wat he said... I just check visual and such, and maybe run a 12 V tester along cable, But CHRI5K hit it on the head ref checking cables !!!!!!!!!!!!!! Definitely has more knowledge than this old "driveway" mechanic.. (Boy my mom was mad about the oil and the A frame in the driveway), LMAO..............

 

[turkeybird56]

Does that year have a battery temp/current sensor?not sure if that would cause a growl

Battery temp? Voltage reading for sure. May be able go thru EVIC and see, should be there, or at least a voltage gauge or the option depending upon trim...

 

[Brandon-w]

Well I googled..

https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/symptoms-of-a-bad-or-failing-battery-temperature-sensor

It's a possibility. Stupid electronics I say again.

 

[UncleTone]

Ok guys here we go!!!! As far as the battery temp sensor, I have one coming in tomorrow so I will swap that out BUT, in using CHRI5K's advice in inspecting the wires and using the jumper cables to test the grounds I noticed the 180a fuse on the positive battery terminal was blown. I fell sooooooooo dumb for overlooking this. I was positive that I had made sure this fuse was not blown. So Im assuming that this is the root of the problem. This would explain the loud noise coming from the alternator when I would field test, the charge is just sitting in the cable going no where. Now my problem is finding that fuse. Ive been searching and I can seem to find it anywhere.

 

[ripping r]

Ok guys here we go!!!! As far as the battery temp sensor, I have one coming in tomorrow so I will swap that out BUT, in using CHRI5K's advice in inspecting the wires and using the jumper cables to test the grounds I noticed the 180a fuse on the positive battery terminal was blown. I fell sooooooooo dumb for overlooking this. I was positive that I had made sure this fuse was not blown. So Im assuming that this is the root of the problem. This would explain the loud noise coming from the alternator when I would field test, the charge is just sitting in the cable going no where. Now my problem is finding that fuse. Ive been searching and I can seem to find it anywhere.

is this it?https://www.delcity.net/store/ZCase-Fuses/p_809230

 

[UncleTone]

I actually found it on Amazon. Im hoping this is the problem. I jumped the fuse with a wire and the battery started charged slowly but the alternator still made noise and the wire started warming up. Im assuming the wire I used was too small. Hopefully this works. Parts comes in on Sunday. Happy Thanksgiving y'all!!!!

https://www.amazon.com/68164797AA-6...68164797AA&qid=1574963112&s=automotive&sr=1-1

 

[Ribtipram]

Hope that new alt is still good. On these new alt's the last thing you want to do is disconnect the battery while it's charging. Not sure if that fuse being blowen would mimic that.

 

[UncleTone]

Welp!!! That was it. First, I must apologize for putting you guys through all of that head scratching. I can't believe that I overlooked a blown fuse. Anyways, the truck runs fine now but the uconnect doesn't turn on I'm assuming because of the massive power loss. I flashed he ECU and these are the codes I got;

U1110
P05A5
U0212
U1412
U11BC
U1120

All these codes fall under the permanent dealer codes and the tool won't let me erase these codes. Im guessing I'm gonna have to take a trip to the dealer.....

 

[Brandon-w]

Some of these codes would go away with a drive I think. Orrrr you fried a module. [emoji19] I'll look em up.

 

[Brandon-w]

Yeah abs wheel speed, active grille shutters, canbus stuff. Are the codes current and setting off a Mil light?

 

[OCDTech]

Ok guys here we go!!!! As far as the battery temp sensor, I have one coming in tomorrow so I will swap that out BUT, in using CHRI5K's advice in inspecting the wires and using the jumper cables to test the grounds I noticed the 180a fuse on the positive battery terminal was blown. I fell sooooooooo dumb for overlooking this. I was positive that I had made sure this fuse was not blown. So Im assuming that this is the root of the problem. This would explain the loud noise coming from the alternator when I would field test, the charge is just sitting in the cable going no where. Now my problem is finding that fuse. Ive been searching and I can seem to find it anywhere.

Almost suggested a voltage drop test from positive battery post to B+ on alternator, You would've found it that way. Just found this thread. As for the fuse, i know its a big one, not the same but when i got my truck i wanted to have fuses, in case anything blows you know, well i quickly found these arent readily easy to find in parts stores yet. I had to get mine online, of course i'm talking about the little ones in the TIPM, Micro 2 fuses.

 

[UncleTone]

Yeah abs wheel speed, active grille shutters, canbus stuff. Are the codes current and setting off a Mil light?

No light is on, CEL is on with accessory but after the truck starts there are no lights. I have and extra ECU and same problem. Wonder if it has something to do with battery saver mode, it was on last week while I was having the other issue previously posted.

 

[Brandon-w]

No light is on, CEL is on with accessory but after the truck starts there are no lights. I have and extra ECU and same problem

Nothing to worry about then just keep keepin on. [emoji106]

 

[Brandon-w]

Engine light is always on with engine off. It does this during the pre start setf test process. As soon as sll systems check out it goes off and ur good.

 

[UncleTone]

Nothing to worry about then just keep keepin on. [emoji106]

Ok, but will my connect turn back on after a drive cycle??

 

[Brandon-w]

You have no siganal at all? Try pressing driver side hot and cold selector at the same time. U connect should pop a menu up. If it doesn't I'd check fuses (if it has one) and go from there.

 

[UncleTone]

You have no siganal at all? Try pressing driver side hot and cold selector at the same time. U connect should pop a menu up. If it doesn't I'd check fuses (if it has one) and go from there.

Got it!!!, after some research online, I found there is an inline fuse by the wire harness behind the battery. 20amp micro fuse was blown. Thanks!!!

 

[ripping r]

why the hell cant they put the fuses in one place so we can find them easy.

 

[ROADPOP]

Never buy that cheap auto parts crap...always take the factory alt and get it rebuilt by a local shop