Beginning of HEMI tick or piston slap?

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Galahad144

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Hey members!

Scoured the forums can’t seem to find what I’m looking for.

Some of you may remember me as inquiring about different combinations of drivetrains and what the best combo was.

I settled on a truck. About a week and a half ago I bought a beautiful 2016 Ram Sport with only 58,000km on it.

It’s got the 5.7 and it has the very odd noise when it’s fully warm and I come to a stop and let it idle. The noise starts at any pressure lower than 300kpa according to my guage. (“Mechanical”guage doesn’t move. I believe this is a separate issue.) It doesn’t sound like HEMI tick but more of a slap or a knock. Almost sounds like it’s detonating all the time. It’s intermittent so the video I have isn’t great as this time it happened after I got out of the gym. Not sure how to upload one as I can’t seem to upload a video.

Doesn’t sound like rod knock either. Otherwise truck runs great.

I would like to start running redline however I don’t like it’s cold oil flow performance and I need that as I live in the great white north. PUP may be my next best bet.

All thoughts are appreciated thank you.
 

ramffml

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Hard to say without hearing it. Piston slap is generally something that you only hear when its cold, whereas lifter tick is what you hear when its hot idling.

I would dump the oil immediately and start with either Redline 0w-30, HPL premium plus passenger 0w-30, or even mobil one fs 0w-40 with added biotech lubeguard. The HPL especially has very good cold start performance according to David (the guy who developed the oil) and is the sole reason to get it over the other HPL 0w-30 offerings, it's what I'm running right now and love so far.

Not sure why you don't like RL cold flow, far as I know the 0w-30 works fine, I've used it last winter.

I'd also try a different filter (Royal Purple if you can find it, or Fram Ultra), probably won't make a difference but can't hurt.

(Oh, also if I were you i'd take a used oil sample and send to Blackstone, see what shows up).
 

Burla

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Piston slap only happens when pistons shrunk faster then block as all metal shrinks in the cold, if it happens when fully warm, it is not traditional piston slap. If it is metalic banging other then cold piston slap, you wont find better then 5w30 redline for cushioning that. It is many reasons, ep additive moly high level, esters polar by nature, pao branch chain molecules, high zinc, and oh yeah heavy hths. This formula is not good for cold piston slap, but is butter for everything else. 0w30 is also a move many forums make and it is best of both worlds, good film plus good cold.
 
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Galahad144

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Hard to say without hearing it. Piston slap is generally something that you only hear when its cold, whereas lifter tick is what you hear when its hot idling.

I would dump the oil immediately and start with either Redline 0w-30, HPL premium plus passenger 0w-30, or even mobil one fs 0w-40 with added biotech lubeguard. The HPL especially has very good cold start performance according to David (the guy who developed the oil) and is the sole reason to get it over the other HPL 0w-30 offerings, it's what I'm running right now and love so far.

Not sure why you don't like RL cold flow, far as I know the 0w-30 works fine, I've used it last winter.

I'd also try a different filter (Royal Purple if you can find it, or Fram Ultra), probably won't make a difference but can't hurt.

(Oh, also if I were you i'd take a used oil sample and send to Blackstone, see what shows up).
Is the 5.7 have that bad of an oiling system that it needs the ultimate wear protection of redline despite the rest of the drawbacks compared to other oils?

This is only one test however the test I viewed was that redline does not flow well in cold temperatures compared to something like PUP or Amsoil. Makes me somewhat uneasy with our cold temperatures during the winter. Spring summer and fall would be no problem. As well as the evaporative loss of redline when exposed to high heat such as around the piston was a little bit more substantial when compared to PUP.

I’ve never heard of HPL. Is that strictly a US brand of oil? If the anti wear additive package is similar to redline and it has better cold oil performance I would be interested in finding out how to obtain that.
 
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Galahad144

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Piston slap only happens when pistons shrunk faster then block as all metal shrinks in the cold, if it happens when fully warm, it is not traditional piston slap. If it is metalic banging other then cold piston slap, you wont find better then 5w30 redline for cushioning that. It is many reasons, ep additive moly high level, esters polar by nature, pao branch chain molecules, high zinc, and oh yeah heavy hths. This formula is not good for cold piston slap, but is butter for everything else. 0w30 is also a move many forums make and it is best of both worlds, good film plus good cold.
It’s a very odd noise. If I can get a video uploaded obviously I could give everyone a better idea to what I’m referring to. When the noise starts the truck starts idling rougher. I thought it was intermittent but it seems to be consistent when the truck is fully warmed up and oil pressure is below 300kpa (43ish psi). Really start to hear it around 240kpa (34ish psi) which really makes me think it’s an oil starvation problem. Even though 240kpa is still a decent amount of pressure in my experience. If Redline or this HPL oil that ramffml was referring to can solve it then that’s what I’ll run.
 

DILLIGAF

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The idle is set to low from factory, its not an oil pressure issue
 
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Galahad144

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Has anyone used the Hp-1017 Gold K&N filter? I’m curious if it’s tan with redline if the high moly content will not allow the oil to flow through it as it’s a 10micron filter. I’ve always used them on past vehicles and the oil has been beautiful every 5,000km.
 

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We see that you have received some great advice from your fellow forum members! However, if these suggestions do not address your concern and you decide to visit your dealer, our team would be happy to offer additional assistance throughout that process! We're available via private message.

Callie
Ram Cares
 

Burla

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Has anyone used the Hp-1017 Gold K&N filter? I’m curious if it’s tan with redline if the high moly content will not allow the oil to flow through it as it’s a 10micron filter. I’ve always used them on past vehicles and the oil has been beautiful every 5,000km.
The moly is oil soluble moly, it has nothing to do with this. Your filter is the smaller filter and it could be as simple as using the larger size. 20-820 is the known grand puba but can't be found, you might consider fram xg2 or rp 20-500. The smaller filters are a known issue on ram forum.
 

jws123

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Your best bet is to upload the video to youtube and then post a link here.
 
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Galahad144

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It now makes a knocking noise but it’s not consistent. Seems to happen when truck is cold
 

Burla

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I have some noise cancelling headphones, I can hear something but that video isnt close to be enough to gather anything. Try leaving recorder under wheel well for 2 full minutes so I/we can hear a better sample.
 
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Galahad144

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I have some noise cancelling headphones, I can hear something but that video isnt close to be enough to gather anything. Try leaving recorder under wheel well for 2 full minutes so I/we can hear a better sample.
I caught one of the main concerning noises much louder. This is after driving all day with a bit more idling than usual with some medium duty towing. This was 2 starts after I disconnected my trailer when I was about to head home.

https://youtube.com/shorts/eMTH_np8ub0?feature=share
 
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Galahad144

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My phone stopped recording halfway through but there was another 30 or so seconds of that video
 

jws123

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Sounds like a normal cold startup on my 5.7 when I fire her up on a cold morning most the time it will do this its the MDS lifters deflating overnight takes a second for them to fill up. Use a good synthetic oil/filter and some lubeguard def helps.
 
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Galahad144

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Sounds like a normal cold startup on my 5.7 when I fire her up on a cold morning most the time it will do this its the MDS lifters deflating overnight takes a second for them to fill up. Use a good synthetic oil/filter and some lubeguard def helps.
This unfortunately is a warm start. I had shutoff the truck maybe an hour before this. I will definitely be using a better oil and filter than what’s on it on the next oil change. Redline is hard to get where I am so I will have to see what’s close.
 

jws123

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This unfortunately is a warm start. I had shutoff the truck maybe an hour before this. I will definitely be using a better oil and filter than what’s on it on the next oil change. Redline is hard to get where I am so I will have to see what’s close.
Use penzoil 5w30 syn thats what i use in all my hemi engines appear to run quieter it and if those where hot starts wow I mean it has happened to me on hot starts but not that common at all.
 

Burla

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It isnt that bad, to be honest that is the type pf thing redline just erases, I'd try 0w30 for your location if it is redline. If you decide to get it, I have some ideas on filtration and extending interval that can make the extra effort worth it to some people. Yes lubegard might work as well, but it is less effective then the voodoo we call redline. Alternatively, I'd try a 0w40 which do not threat technically speaking they are 5w30 most of the time, I imagine it would be also hard to get royal purple filters, if you can find a 20-500 and see if it fits, and get a fram xg2 as a backup. Look up BITOG forums for high moly 0w40's, I know some guys I trust said 0w40 amsoil is a tick killer two trucks. PUP 0w40 as well, and if you want something else look at bitog for those high moly voa's, over 200ppm. You need to consider additives, viscosity, AND filtration, they are all important if you want to kill a tick. If you use the 2016 recommended filter size,. it might be as simple as switching to the larger filter, yes it can be that important.
 
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Galahad144

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It isnt that bad, to be honest that is the type pf thing redline just erases, I'd try 0w30 for your location if it is redline. If you decide to get it, I have some ideas on filtration and extending interval that can make the extra effort worth it to some people. Yes lubegard might work as well, but it is less effective then the voodoo we call redline. Alternatively, I'd try a 0w40 which do not threat technically speaking they are 5w30 most of the time, I imagine it would be also hard to get royal purple filters, if you can find a 20-500 and see if it fits, and get a fram xg2 as a backup. Look up BITOG forums for high moly 0w40's, I know some guys I trust said 0w40 amsoil is a tick killer two trucks. PUP 0w40 as well, and if you want something else look at bitog for those high moly voa's, over 200ppm. You need to consider additives, viscosity, AND filtration, they are all important if you want to kill a tick. If you use the 2016 recommended filter size,. it might be as simple as switching to the larger filter, yes it can be that important.
Thank you Burla! I appreciate your input. This is very helpful. If I can get my hands on redline I’ll grab some. I’ll look up BITOG forums and see what’s there.

Would an Hp-107 work from K&N? That seems to be the most readily available filter that’s around me. I see it not mentioned all that much. Is there an issue with it?
 
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