Bilstein 5100 adjustable settings help

[XXSNOTRODXX]

I am sure there has been similar questions asked before and I hate to be "that guy". But I searched the forum and there was so many threads about the bilsteins and so many of those threads that got side tracked from the original questions at hand that I never got exactly the answers I was looking for. So I decided to make a thread.

2011 ram 1500 sport,hemi,4x4,quad cab.

After debating over bilstein 5100's and the rancho quick lifts for about a week or more I finally decided to go with the 5100's.

Suspension is factory with about 54,000 miles on the clock.

ride height is about 36 1/2" on the front and 39 3/8" at the rear. Measuring from ground to bottom lip of fender opening.

Is this about the same ride height as most other rams of my year/body style/trim package ..etc...etc..?.

And what setting would you suggest the bils be set at to achieve a level stance (or still a slight front end rake)?. I would assume that setting to 2.8" (max) would get me pretty close to level. But I have heard so many different opinions on riding rough at max setting and 4x4 vibrations etc..etc.. that I don't know what to believe.

I want it as level as possible,but without any vibration issues.

If anyone with experience with these struts and anyone with opinions on it would chime in I would appreciate it.

Thanks

 

[Pull Ya]

On my 2010 and on my 2013 I set mine at 2.1 and I think it sits real close to level. I didn't want any front suspension issues so I didn't go to the 2.8 setting.
Jay

 

[JasonK94Z]

I went 2.8 on mine. It made it closer to level.
It vibrates a little from 25-35 mph in 4wd if I get on the gas hard. Other than that, no issues at all.
Go 2.8!!

 

[brandonjansen]

Setting them at 2.8" will give you the overall look you want. 2.1" will give you a noticeable rake. Most don't have any issues with 4wd wobble/vibrations. I wouldn't hesitate to put them at 2.8" at all.

 

[XXSNOTRODXX]

Thanks guys, I would prefer to go to the 2.8" setting but would really hate to have to rip it all apart and lower it to 2.1" again if a vibration issue comes about. If anyone else has some input please feel free to chime in. Thanks

 

[JasonK94Z]

Thanks guys, I would prefer to go to the 2.8" setting but would really hate to have to rip it all apart and lower it to 2.1" again if a vibration issue comes about. If anyone else has some input please feel free to chime in. Thanks

Don't worry. The vibe issue, if any, is slight and only at a certain speed range (25-35 mph on mine). ONLY in 4wd. When off road, I don't feel it. No big deal to me.

 

[Paradeedle]

I am having the same debate myself. Do new UCAs fix the death wobble or do they only help angles?

 

[XXSNOTRODXX]

I am having the same debate myself. Do new UCAs fix the death wobble or do they only help angles?

I am not sure on the control arms. I am pretty sure that is mostly an issue with the 13-current rams so I will let someone else chime in about that haha.

I think I am going to cross my fingers and set it at 2.8 and hope all is smooth when finished. picked up a new single action spring compressor today,going to try and find time tomorrow for it.

 

[JasonK94Z]

I am having the same debate myself. Do new UCAs fix the death wobble or do they only help angles?

The UCS's fix a ball joint problem in the newer Rams.
It's not a death wobble! It's just a vibration.

 

[Thor09]

Youll be fine to max them on a 2011. As stated, a few trucks get a slight vibration in 4x4 during acceleration. A death wobble is a completely different issue typically on older rams

 

[XXSNOTRODXX]

What a freaking day!...

Started on the truck around 1 pm. everything came apart soooo smooth....too good to be true smooth. Sway bar end link,tie rod popped right out,ball joint popped right out, upper mounting nuts came right out. And THEN........I got to the lower strut bolts on each side. JEEEEEEEZZZZZZZZ.

So the bolts on both sides had froze into the steel sleeves. On one side the sleeve was just spinning in the rubber and on the other side the bolt was froze to the sleeve and the sleeve was froze to the rubber. I tried impact,pry bar,breaker bar,hammer,TONS of penetrating oil,air hammer,heating the bolt........NOTHING....would NOT budge!.

Finally I got tired of screwing around and pulled out my cut off wheel and I cut an ear off of each strut where the bolt goes through on the lowers. NOW I was able to gain access to the sleeves. I then took a small screw driver and hammered it into the split in the sleeves to widen it and to help free it from the bolt. and then sprayed it full of penetrating oil. Then I was able to get a monkey wrench onto the 1/8" or so of steel sleeve hanging out...and on the other end a breaker bar. and slow but sure I worked it back and forth until the penetrating oil was able to do its job and free it up. then I put my impact on it and let it spin for a minute to loosen all the crud up. AND THEN I was able to tap the bolts out FINALLY.

so at this point I though...yes...hard part is finally over. WRONG. one both struts the upper strut rod mounting nuts were frozen in place. as you may know, not much you can do tool wise in there....after creative prying under the top plate,impacting the nut, using a couple of wrenches...finally was able to get one off...then the second one ALMOST made it all the way off but completely froze....luckily it was close enough to being off that I had room to get my cut off wheel in behind it and cut it off.

Then went to swap the struts and what not and my single action spring compressor was not working as well as I would have liked.....at this point I thought to myself......It is not worth doing all of this over again if it ends up getting 4x4 vibrations ...as rare as it may be....so I decided on setting them at 2.1" as I only want to do the job once. Finally got one strut done. Then moved onto the next.....got the strut disassembled and went to compress the spring more to allow it to fit on the new strut....and of course the freaking struts compressor strips out.

Thats it...called it a night because by this time it was already 8:30pm....way longer than it should have been for a job like this....had the lower strut mounting bolts not froze,upper strut rod bolts not froze and spring compressor not have been a complete hunk of crap....it would have easily been a 2 or 3 hour job.

Oh...and I found a nice little surprise that you guys are going to enjoy I am sure HAHA. I bought the truck 2 months ago or so now....Brakes have always felt fine....no pulsating,no funny noises,no brake lights.....nothing. So to my surprise I pull the brakes apart and find the inner pad on the drivers side is GONE...down to metal! (Passenger side was not far off either) and both rotors were some of the worst I have seen! I am talking chunks out of the rotor almost 1/8" deep in spots. How the hell does a rotor get like that?....contamination is what I was thinking with as odd of a deterioration pattern they have and then the rust took over from there.

Ordered new rotors and pads and have to get the stuff to finish compressing the last strut and building it. then it should all fly back together!.

Sorry for the long post, Just wanted to let everyone know my findings and what I ended up doing to remedy the situation. I seen some threads where other guys had the lower strut bolts seize and all of them ended up beating it all out and destroying them and having to order new ones and install them. I just wanted people to know there IS another option if you don't mind taking the extra time to make it happen.

Hope this saves other people some trouble in the future. And be prepared incase your truck gives you the same issues!. My truck is a very clean 4 year old truck and only 53,000 miles and still the bolts were very badly seized!.

 

[Thor09]

Sounds like you had quite a time. Might be a good thing you caught the brakes too

 

[XXSNOTRODXX]

Sounds like you had quite a time. Might be a good thing you caught the brakes too

You bet haha

 

[XXSNOTRODXX]

Grabbed a set of spring compressors from the shop and finished up the rest of the job without a hitch. Everything went back together smooth. Picked up the new rotors and pads and installed them. Now I have a wobble in the front end of the truck under acceleration when 4x4 is engaged and if you try to turn the wheel you can hear/feel the axles bind up. BUT,I have yet to have an alignment done.You can visibly see the front tires are tipped in on the bottom and out on the top. So hopefully an alignment will solve that issue.

I will say that I am happy with them being set at 2.1". the truck leveled out great!. I have about a 3/4" rake still but its no where NEAR as noticeable of a rake as before. Looks like alot more stout of a truck now in my opinion. I like it!. And it drives great!. I was worried that the ride may be a little rough with the springs being compressed more. Its hard to explain but I would say the ride is no more mushy than stock and no firmer than stock just more of a refined feel. It feels like it handles the bumps better I guess you could say. A definite improvement to say the least.

Here are before and after pictures. Let me know what you guys think!.

 

[20114x4blackpearlsport]

Looks great man I just got me some and will use same setting!

 

[Dax]

I set mine at 2.8 and replaced my UCA's with mevas a year ago. Zero off-roading and now my ball joints are toast and I am having to lower it back down and replace them.

 

[XXSNOTRODXX]

I set mine at 2.8 and replaced my UCA's with mevas a year ago. Zero off-roading and now my ball joints are toast and I am having to lower it back down and replace them.

Still running factory uppers and have had zero issues with ball joints. Only thing I ended up having issues with was bad 4x4 vibrations and high angles on my C/V's and I had to put a zone offroad diff drop kit on the truck to remedy it.