Blackstone - used oil analysis

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Burla

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The 0w20 Amsoil was stable, I am impressed with that. It is 8.9 and the top of viscosity for 20 weight is 9, so that oil had like no shear off. I do like the use of heavier oils as well documented here, but as far as that oil goes, looks good. What you may want to do is try 30 weight and see if the wear numbers come down, that is what I did. I didn't get a real definitive result though.
 

gixxer

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I did an oil analysis in the next oil used which is Royal Purple 0w-20. It’s their high performance version. I used an Amsoil Eao filter. 8,048km on this oil.

The sodium is from the add pack I believe as this is not the dexos version. I don’t believe it’s a coolant leak.

The iron is down and in the normal parameters. I am almost wandering if the 4.7 holds more old oil than I thought. I ran 1 liter of new oil through the block to get as much old oil as I could and the oil pouring out was a little dark so some particulate is coming out.

Thoughts?

F41AB6C8-E828-49ED-BCD8-26DD7DD08CE9.jpeg
 

gixxer

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The 0w20 Amsoil was stable, I am impressed with that. It is 8.9 and the top of viscosity for 20 weight is 9, so that oil had like no shear off. I do like the use of heavier oils as well documented here, but as far as that oil goes, looks good. What you may want to do is try 30 weight and see if the wear numbers come down, that is what I did. I didn't get a real definitive result though.

I was quite happy with the oil, but spending time on the BITOG forum and seeing a lot of the VOA and UOA I am going to try oils that are on sale now as they all perform decently well. I put in Pennzoil platinum 5w-20 with a fram ultra synthetic for now. I might remove the fumoto valve and use the drain plug again as it has the magnet. See what it traps.
 

crazykid1994

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I was quite happy with the oil, but spending time on the BITOG forum and seeing a lot of the VOA and UOA I am going to try oils that are on sale now as they all perform decently well. I put in Pennzoil platinum 5w-20 with a fram ultra synthetic for now. I might remove the fumoto valve and use the drain plug again as it has the magnet. See what it traps.
You could also run a filter magnet. I’m kinda on the edge and want to buy one myself as I have the drain valve. Plus it’s a stronger magnet and will catch better as it’s on the filter instead of the bottom of the pan
 

Hemi395

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I'd be concerned with the chromium content which is piston rings and the higher iron. It suggests that the RP isn't protecting the cylinder walls....
 

huntergreen

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I did an oil analysis in the next oil used which is Royal Purple 0w-20. It’s their high performance version. I used an Amsoil Eao filter. 8,048km on this oil.

The sodium is from the add pack I believe as this is not the dexos version. I don’t believe it’s a coolant leak.

The iron is down and in the normal parameters. I am almost wandering if the 4.7 holds more old oil than I thought. I ran 1 liter of new oil through the block to get as much old oil as I could and the oil pouring out was a little dark so some particulate is coming out.

Thoughts?

View attachment 139120

Gixxer, is 0/20 the speced weight ? Not ,5/20 ?
 

gixxer

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Gixxer, is 0/20 the speced weight ? Not ,5/20 ?

No 5w-20 is. I just normally run 0w-20 because we get terribly cold winters.

I also change my oil once every 12-16 months as I drive so little so 0w-20 stays in year round.

I recently just bought the 5w-20 as it was on sale and I’m doing a road trip.
 

R.L.K.

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That's an AWESOME UOA !!!!
Low wear metals and lots of Molybdenum !

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R.L.K.

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That TBN is good to considering I had a TBN of 3.3 on 5W-30 Redline with over 8k of all around driving with some towing [emoji1303]

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HammerHead

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PUP 0w40 is running good in my 6.4, it's a little thin imo at the 4-5k mark.
Pennzoil website states it has 13.7 cst at 100 degrees C; oil report it came in at 11.4 with 4.5k on the oil.
First oil change was factory fill, looking at the two oils side by side looks like factory fill is PUP imo.
Wear metals look good for a ****** engine at the 10k mark.

IMG_1039.jpg
 

R.L.K.

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PUP 0w40 is running good in my 6.4, it's a little thin imo at the 4-5k mark.
Pennzoil website states it has 13.7 cst at 100 degrees C; oil report it came in at 11.4 with 4.5k on the oil.
First oil change was factory fill, looking at the two oils side by side looks like factory fill is PUP imo.
Wear metals look good for a ****** engine at the 10k mark.

View attachment 143223
Not bad as far as wear metals go with such low miles [emoji106]

A bit low on Phosphorus & Zinc imo , but good Molybdenum ppms and the calcium looks pretty good at 4500 miles , probably a 3.4ish TBN ...hard to say .

PUP is known to shear quickly , especially in the 6.4L .
I do believe PUP is a fantastic oil .

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huntergreen

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PUP 0w40 is running good in my 6.4, it's a little thin imo at the 4-5k mark.
Pennzoil website states it has 13.7 cst at 100 degrees C; oil report it came in at 11.4 with 4.5k on the oil.
First oil change was factory fill, looking at the two oils side by side looks like factory fill is PUP imo.
Wear metals look good for a ****** engine at the 10k mark.

View attachment 143223
.


Like rlk said. Great oci, especially for a new engine.
 

Burla

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Hammer it is 0w40, the manufacturers use that weight as a 5w30 by design. They could use a thick 5w30 as their spec, but then they are hamstrung by the API regulations for 30 weight oil as far as additives. FCA doesn't want thick oils in the hemi, if they did they would spec 5w40 or 10w40. It's posted that the best balance for metal protection is about 35 weight, considering most modern engines and how they run. Even these engines are good HP, they don't have to work hard to get it, thus 35 weight would be a good guide.

Normally a uoa would scare the hell out of someone, but it is very normal for a hemi as noted. Thanks for doing that uoa, guys need to consider this, 0w40 PUP is thinner then 5w30 redline most of it's life in an engine.
 

Hootbro

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Hammer it is 0w40, the manufacturers use that weight as a 5w30 by design. They could use a thick 5w30 as their spec, but then they are hamstrung by the API regulations for 30 weight oil as far as additives. FCA doesn't want thick oils in the hemi, if they did they would spec 5w40 or 10w40. It's posted that the best balance for metal protection is about 35 weight, considering most modern engines and how they run. Even these engines are good HP, they don't have to work hard to get it, thus 35 weight would be a good guide.

Normally a uoa would scare the hell out of someone, but it is very normal for a hemi as noted. Thanks for doing that uoa, guys need to consider this, 0w40 PUP is thinner then 5w30 redline most of it's life in an engine.

Years back at the launch of the 6.4L in the HD's, there was a Youtube video (since removed) on the Ram truck account with the head of RAM Truck division and the RAM chief engineer taking questions. The question that was posted to them and they answered was if 0W-40 oil was required of the 6.4L RAM? The RAM chief engineer answered and said no it was not and "ALL TESTING" for the RAM 6.4L was done with 5W-30 conventional. The Scooby Doo mystery is why that never made it to production and the owners manual?

I am inclined to believe there was is some credence to needing a heavy 30wt to light 40 weight oil and they defaulted to the PUP 0W-40 for that. When I had my 6.4L, I even ran a OCI with 5W-30 and notice no change in use or abnormal wear numbers from analysis.
 

SETEX 6.4

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Here is my first UOA that I did back in January.
51,208 miles on the truck at that time with 7,867 on this oil.
I just changed my oil again last weekend and sent the oil again. I went almost 10,000 miles on this last oil per their recommendation in this report.
What do you guys think?
 

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