Blackstone - used oil analysis

[KKBB]

Those low wear levels are incredible compared to our hemis.

Definitely...wish our hemis had numbers like that.

 

[Burla]

Yeah those are great numbers but they are trending up, if the next one is again higher iron I'd change the oil brand. What is that moly from- an additive? I see they said mos2 are you adding mos2? If not, it isnt mos2 but rather MoDTC.

 

[emjohn4]

It's whatever is in this. All my cars get a can of this at each oil change.

https://www.amazon.com/Liqui-Moly-2009-Anti-Friction-Treatment/dp/B003U4O414/

 

[Burla]

It's whatever is in this. All my cars get a can of this at each oil change.

https://www.amazon.com/Liqui-Moly-2009-Anti-Friction-Treatment/dp/B003U4O414/

That additive versus the blue biotech. Mos2 is powdered moly in suspension and lubegard biotech is oil soluble moly. I don't know why it is trending up, obviously not a large enough increase to sweat it out, but if it keeps going that way you might consider some changes. If you seen the video's we once had on mos2 gelling up the sump versus biotech, I doubt you would run it. Some guy ran two tests and the powder moly not only sticks to the pan but it stick to itself. mos2 is old dinosaur tech, nobody runs it in oil anymore, not even liqui moly house oil, they all use MoDTC as in lubegard type moly.

 

[1979PowerWagon360]

Hey there's so much good info here and for those of us just seeing this, is there somewhat of a conclusion from all the UOA's on a the best oil? There's so many UOA's. Redline? Thank all of you so much for sharing!!!

 

[Rado]

This is a very interesting thread !
I think I may send a sample from my car and RAM to Blackstone !
I would be interested to see my numbers and what they mean !
I will post reports when I get them done !

 

[Moparoadrunner]

Happy Labor Day weekend

I just got my second year Blackstone report
5.7 Hemi 5w20 Pennzoil yellow bottle now with added synthetic blend text, was it always synthetic blend and they just added that now? and a bottle of Lubegard Biotech added both years.

I read hundreds of pages on oil topics in forums and feel that full synthetics may be too slippery and can cause the roller lifters to slide on the cam and not roll that is why i am going with PYB

I would use Pennzoil full synthetic or Redline if i was sure it is better for the engine.
what do you think of the 0il report?

 

[Burla]

There is just not a lot we can decipher with a 2k mile interval. You cant multiply by 4 and think it would be the same if you went 8k miles. There is nothing you can compare it to because 2k mile intervals are rare. I'd at least try and go 5k miles if you want some type of comparison. I would say there is nothing wrong with your truck from a uoa perspective.

No such thing as too slippery with lifters.

 

[Moparoadrunner]

Well what got me onto the forums is reading up on the hemi tick and mine has some kind of tick louder on one side on and off. It is not an exhaust leak from bolts. when i noticed it i did all this oil research but what seems to cure mine is driving hard and getting RPMs high after a good drive is quiets down. I seen youtube videos of BMW owners curing lifter tick holding RPMs at 3000 for 3 minutes.

I just use autostick manual mode and hold RPMs at 3-4k 15 seconds while driving and it quiets tick.

Tick has been there coming and going for 3 years, How high would iron be if there was a cam/lifter problem?

I only drive 2-3k a year so a 5k OCI would be over 2 years and nobody recommends even going a year without changing it

 

[06 Dodge]

Well what got me onto the forums is reading up on the hemi tick and mine has some kind of tick louder on one side on and off. It is not an exhaust leak from bolts. when i noticed it i did all this oil research but what seems to cure mine is driving hard and getting RPMs high after a good drive is quiets down. I seen youtube videos of BMW owners curing lifter tick holding RPMs at 3000 for 3 minutes.

I just use autostick manual mode and hold RPMs at 3-4k 15 seconds while driving and it quiets tick.

Tick has been there coming and going for 3 years, How high would iron be if there was a cam/lifter problem?

I only drive 2-3k a year so a 5k OCI would be over 2 years and nobody recommends even going a year without changing it

If you only drive 2-3K a year then I would use full synthetic oil not blend just to have more protection from oil degradation...

 

[Burla]

Well what got me onto the forums is reading up on the hemi tick and mine has some kind of tick louder on one side on and off. It is not an exhaust leak from bolts. when i noticed it i did all this oil research but what seems to cure mine is driving hard and getting RPMs high after a good drive is quiets down. I seen youtube videos of BMW owners curing lifter tick holding RPMs at 3000 for 3 minutes.

I just use autostick manual mode and hold RPMs at 3-4k 15 seconds while driving and it quiets tick.

Tick has been there coming and going for 3 years, How high would iron be if there was a cam/lifter problem?

I only drive 2-3k a year so a 5k OCI would be over 2 years and nobody recommends even going a year without changing it

I go two years 10k miles w/o issue proved by uoa's, but I'm not telling you to do that or even get a uoa, if you are gonna stay on a 2k interval, maybe just forget uoa's.

So hemi's are high wear engines, maybe the highest I ever seen, so no your iron level is nowhere close to any internal problem. Read through this thread and see what hemi normal is.

 

[Moparoadrunner]

What do you think about the high revs thing? I did not see it mentioned before with hemi tick.
Last fall it was ticking so loud i thought it was the end of the engine so i thought i would try the high rev thing.

After some spirited driving and getting higher revs before shifting i was blown away by how quiet it was.
sometimes the tick starts to come back after some time of normal driving so i give it the rev treatment again and it goes quiet again. This is why i did a second UOI to see if there was any change from the hard driving.

What kind of tick do i have if it is fixed by Italian tuneup?

Engine Ticking Free Fix Must Watch For ALL Car Owners NO LIQUIDS USED Hydraulic Lifter Tick

Add Me On Instagram @BMWDoctorOfficialGo to My Spotify Playlist which has all intro songs used on my videos https://open.spotify.com/playlist/4SeWhilLSS9Y6FI...

www.youtube.com

This BMW sounds like hemi tick and fixed with high revs

 

[Burla]

Some guys have done that with some success, whatever works. Some guys say the turn engine without spark does something as well. Before you turn the key, put the hammer all the way down, the truck wont start but will turn. Personally, the lubrication strategy worked for me so I don't have to do all that, but on occasion I will run rpm's up, maybe not to italian tune up standards, but over 3k rpm's for a while to do exactly what you say, splash lube the cam a bit more. Look up the threads in my sig for more info and read the threads and poll results.

 

[Wild one]

Italian tune-up,now that i like.

 

[ramffml]

What do you think about the high revs thing? I did not see it mentioned before with hemi tick.
Last fall it was ticking so loud i thought it was the end of the engine so i thought i would try the high rev thing.

After some spirited driving and getting higher revs before shifting i was blown away by how quiet it was.
sometimes the tick starts to come back after some time of normal driving so i give it the rev treatment again and it goes quiet again. This is why i did a second UOI to see if there was any change from the hard driving.

What kind of tick do i have if it is fixed by Italian tuneup?

Engine Ticking Free Fix Must Watch For ALL Car Owners NO LIQUIDS USED Hydraulic Lifter Tick

Add Me On Instagram @BMWDoctorOfficialGo to My Spotify Playlist which has all intro songs used on my videos https://open.spotify.com/playlist/4SeWhilLSS9Y6FI...

www.youtube.com

This BMW sounds like hemi tick and fixed with high revs

My pair of pennies:

There are several reasons why the hemi might tick. The classic "hemi tick" is caused by lifter failure, meaning the lifter has actually stopped rolling and is smashing up and down on the cam. If this is why your hemi is ticking, revving it like a ***** will just mean your lifters are smashing even more often for no reason, causing further damage, and accelerating your way to a new engine.

If your tick is caused by bleed down, higher RPMs will bring oil/pressure back to that area quicker in terms of time, but again considering that the sound is due to a temporary lack of lubrication, I doubt that that is better for the engine then letting it warm up by a minute of idling.

If your tick is caused by broken manifold bolts or some sort of exhaust leak, higher RPMs will cause your engine to heat up sooner, causing your exhaust to expand and close the gap thereby reducing or eliminating the tick.

But as you can probably tell by now, I'm not a fan of revving the snot out of an engine when its cold. Bring it up to operating temp before you work it hard, it will last longer.

In short: never trust a beemer owner with anything important in your life. Have you seen how they drive??

 

[Moparoadrunner]

My pair of pennies:

There are several reasons why the hemi might tick. The classic "hemi tick" is caused by lifter failure, meaning the lifter has actually stopped rolling and is smashing up and down on the cam. If this is why your hemi is ticking, revving it like a ***** will just mean your lifters are smashing even more often for no reason, causing further damage, and accelerating your way to a new engine.

If your tick is caused by bleed down, higher RPMs will bring oil/pressure back to that area quicker in terms of time, but again considering that the sound is due to a temporary lack of lubrication, I doubt that that is better for the engine then letting it warm up by a minute of idling.

If your tick is caused by broken manifold bolts or some sort of exhaust leak, higher RPMs will cause your engine to heat up sooner, causing your exhaust to expand and close the gap thereby reducing or eliminating the tick.

But as you can probably tell by now, I'm not a fan of revving the snot out of an engine when its cold. Bring it up to operating temp before you work it hard, it will last longer.

In short: never trust a beemer owner with anything important in your life. Have you seen how they drive??

The Tick is deep and mysterious
Some more info from mine:
It does not tick on startup, it sometimes comes after fully warmed up and driving a while
I always let the engine run 2-5 min before even shifting out of park and drive easy till it gets to full operating temperature.

when i notice it starting to tick, some high rev shifts quiet it down again and it has been doing this for 3 years and Blackstone analysis says there is no abnormal wear so what do you make of it?

 

[ramffml]

The Tick is deep and mysterious
Some more info from mine:
It does not tick on startup, it sometimes comes after fully warmed up and driving a while
I always let the engine run 2-5 min before even shifting out of park and drive easy till it gets to full operating temperature.

when i notice it starting to tick, some high rev shifts quiet it down again and it has been doing this for 3 years and Blackstone analysis says there is no abnormal wear so what do you make of it?

I did miss the part where you said you rev it after it's warm, so that's good. Nothing wrong with running higher rpms at that point.

If I were in your spot though I'd be giving Redline 5w-30 a shot and see if that makes a difference. Just be aware that since it isn't certified for use in the hemi, running it may be used against you if you need your warranty on your engine. If you're really worried about warranty, you could also try it for 4000 miles and see if it makes a difference, then swap it back out if it doesn't but keep it if does.

(Certifications are a "political" thing more than a technical thing, it's probably one of the best oils available for the hemi so in terms of minimizing damage and prolonging your engine life its your best bet that we know of with any real certainty. And speaking for myself, I'm far less worried about my engine breaking during warranty vs breaking after the warranty has expired, so I'm going to run the best oil I know of and take that chance as needing warranty work is far less probable than needing work done after the warranty)

 

[quickster2]

1st oil analysis on this vehicle. 65K miles 5K OCI's since new. Most oil changes PUP 0W40 with WIX XP filter. A few early on (still 5K OCI) oil changes by the FCA Engineering Center as this was my Company PE vehicle before I bought it after 1 year. Based on the P/N the Eng. Center used 0W40 PP and Mopar filter. Truck used mostly for towing and truck camper usage for the past 45K miles. Magnetic plug was very clean FYI. Comments please. TIA

 

[Burla]

1st oil analysis on this vehicle. 65K miles 5K OCI's since new. Most oil changes PUP 0W40 with WIX XP filter. A few early on (still 5K OCI) oil changes by the FCA Engineering Center as this was my Company PE vehicle before I bought it after 1 year. Based on the P/N the Eng. Center used 0W40 PP and Mopar filter. Truck used mostly for towing and truck camper usage for the past 45K miles. Magnetic plug was very clean FYI. Comments please. TIAView attachment 501442

So the 0w40 is now in 30 weight to be expected.

The wear seams about average for these high wear engines. I might expect PUP to produce a little less wear at your mileage, but there is nothing that would say this isnt a perfect running hemi. The fact you tow a lot is the difference.

In michigan you are damned if you do damned if you dont. If you go thicker you will likely get cold piston slap, if you go thinner that wont help a 6.4 that tows. Another option some guys do is run a heavy additive oil with pao base oils and high moly and have it similar in weight.

.

 

[quickster2]

I meant to mention at this oil change I added 16 OZ of LubeGuard and went with the RP 20-500 filter. I will post back at 70K. I still have one more change of PUP to use up. I bought a bunch on sale a couple of years ago for the Viper and my truck. As another data point the truck has 181 Idle time, 1242 driving, and 1473 total hours. It will be interesting the effect the LubeGuard & RP filter might have. Oil pressure and temps stayed the same as we just completed a 1000 mile round trip. Thx for the comments.

I do try to minimize the idle time in the last year after reading comments on this forum.