Brakes keep seizing

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Brad88888

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I replaced my front calipers a couple of weeks ago, they were old and were not retracting good. I then realized that I had a sinking gas peedle, so i checked for leaks on all brakes however there were none and I looked very heard pumping thee brakes many of times. I then figured it has to be the master cylinder, which i just replaced. Once the master cylinder was installled I bled the lines and thought everythng was good. When I did a test drive the brakes became more and more seized as i used them for all four brakes. Does anyone know what can be happening in this case?
 

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Did you bench bleed the master cylinder? Clean and lubricate the caliper bolts?
 
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Brad88888

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Yes I have done calipers many times. I find it weird that all of a sudden I have all four brakes seizing.
 
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Brad88888

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Had one do that one time. The culprit was the flex hose going to the caliper was deteriorating from the inside. Hose replaced and problem solved.
Did you check the sliders ?

video to watch

Yes absolutly. Its just now all four brakes are seizing.
 
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Brad88888

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Had one do that one time. The culprit was the flex hose going to the caliper was deteriorating from the inside. Hose replaced and problem solved.
But it is happening to all four brakes, is it possible that all four hoses went at the same time?
 

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But it is happening to all four brakes, is it possible that all four hoses went at the same time?
If it happened with all four brakes at the same time, my guess would be the master

I dont think the brakes are seizing, I think something if off or stuck in the master leading it to act as a line lock
 

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Is the pedal coming back far enough to allow the piston to clear the compensating port in the master cylinder? I tend to agree that the problem is likely in the master cylinder. If the "depth" of the recess where the pushrod pushes on the piston of the master cylinder, is not as deep as the old one, you could have a problem similar to what you are describing.
 
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Brad88888

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If it happened with all four brakes at the same time, my guess would be the master

I dont think the brakes are seizing, I think something if off or stuck in the master leading it to act as a line lock
But I just installed a new master cylinder. Possible it is defective? I did buy it from amazon.
 

diymirage

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But I just installed a new master cylinder. Possible it is defective? I did buy it from amazon.
Think I heard 10% of new parts are bad, out of the box

I'm not saying it is, the master, but what do all four brakes have in common?

Like Hagar mentioned, if the plunger depth is off the brakes will act like you still have your foot on it

Might even he the pedal linkage not being lined up properly, or something clogging that passage

Can you slide your foot under the pedal, pull it up and release the brakes ?
 

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But it is happening to all four brakes, is it possible that all four hoses went at the same time?
Drive the truck until the brakes get warm and seize. Hop out and loosen by a turn or so the 2 mounting nuts on the master cylinder. Did the brakes free up? If so, the adjustment of the push rod in the booster may need to be set. Also, look inside the booster and see if fluid is accumulated inside. If so, replace the booster.

The Law of Descending Logic: What'd the last thing you messed with before the problem occurred.
 
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Brad88888

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Drive the truck until the brakes get warm and seize. Hop out and loosen by a turn or so the 2 mounting nuts on the master cylinder. Did the brakes free up? If so, the adjustment of the push rod in the booster may need to be set. Also, look inside the booster and see if fluid is accumulated inside. If so, replace the booster.

The Law of Descending Logic: What'd the last thing you messed with before the problem occurred.
I forgot to mention in my originla post that I also replaced the booster, I thought maybe there needs to be an adjustment of the push rod in the booster, but how is that done? I have been looking online but cannot find anyhting.
 
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Brad88888

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I forgot to mention in my originla post that I also replaced the booster, I thought maybe there needs to be an adjustment of the push rod in the booster, but how is that done? I have been looking online but cannot find anyhting.
And also the 4WD service light came on, i did a code reading and got P0572, which says the brake switch is not working. I checked it out and the plunger is not long enough to get hit by the brake when depressed, so it thinks I always have the brake on.
 
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Brad88888

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Think I heard 10% of new parts are bad, out of the box

I'm not saying it is, the master, but what do all four brakes have in common?

Like Hagar mentioned, if the plunger depth is off the brakes will act like you still have your foot on it

Might even he the pedal linkage not being lined up properly, or something clogging that passage

Can you slide your foot under the pedal, pull it up and release the brakes ?
As per other posts, I installed a new booster too, now all four brakes are seizing. Got a code for the brack switch is not working, the plunger does not touch the brake pedal anymore when depressed.
 
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Brad88888

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I perhaps did not describe correctly on my original post, my appologies I have not done this much.

So here is a better summary of events in order:

A couple weeks ago I replaced two front brake calipers, I have done many changes in my life.
After this I found I had a sinking brake pedal, i checked very digilently for leaks and there were none.
So I need to replace the master cylinder (Dorman ordered from Amazon), when i took it off I noticed that the booster plunger fell out and some parts.
So decided to also replace the booster (NAPA) too.
Now I have a new booster and master cylinder.
I did test drive and now all four brakes are locking up and getting supper hot and smoke came from all four.
In adition to this, the "4WD Service" light and stability control indicator lights came on.
Got a code of P0572 Code: Brake Switch "A" Circuit low
Checked the Brake swtich and the plunger was not able to reach the brake pedal when not pressed, so the brake switch thinks the brake is always on.

I hope this helps clarify and that this awesome community can help.

Thanks
 

diymirage

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Checked the Brake swtich and the plunger was not able to reach the brake pedal when not pressed, so the brake switch thinks the brake is always on.

I hope this helps clarify and that this awesome community can help.

Thanks
i would look into that part right here
is the plunger to short...then it should never work, right ?
BUT if the plunger is stuck in a depressed position what would it do?
it would act like a line lock and lock up the brakes


(and i dont know, but this is the way i would go about it)

so, check for movement in the plunger, see if you can pull it to reach the pedal
if so, its sticking and thats your issue

if not, it didnt cost nothing to check
 
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Brad88888

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i would look into that part right here
is the plunger to short...then it should never work, right ?
BUT if the plunger is stuck in a depressed position what would it do?
it would act like a line lock and lock up the brakes


(and i dont know, but this is the way i would go about it)

so, check for movement in the plunger, see if you can pull it to reach the pedal
if so, its sticking and thats your issue

if not, it didnt cost nothing to check
The plunger is certianly not working, when i compare the plunger length to pics on the internet of the replacement part it is far shorter with little play, I am going to go NAPA and see if i can get one and compare, buy one if necessary and try that. However is it possible that a faulty brake swtich would cause the brakes to lock up?
 
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