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I would say stay away from drilled, I've seen horrific outcomes from those. Just get you a nice set of slotted and a set of Brake Best Select pads from O'Reilly, keep the receipt and box so when you're due for pads again you just carry them up there and get a new set for free.
That's their house brand... they have a "lifetime" warranty. They said keep the receipt and box, when the old wear out put them in the box and bring them back. I was told this by 3 store managers at 3 different stores.How do you get them for free?
That's their house brand... they have a "lifetime" warranty. They said keep the receipt and box, when the old wear out put them in the box and bring them back. I was told this by 3 store managers at 3 different stores.
Yeah, it's pretty good deal. $120 for all 4 wheels and that's all you pay as long as you keep the paper and box together.You're SH*TTING me... I've NEVER heard of that before. thx for the tip lol
You're SH*TTING me... I've NEVER heard of that before. thx for the tip lol
Seriously?
That's pretty much how I buy all my parts.
Always try to find parts with a Lifetime Warranty. That way, their free, next go-round.
Even my wheel alignments, go for lifetime warranty.
Costs a pittance more, but, int eh long run, well worth it.
This assumes you keep your cars longer than 3-5 yrs.
That;s what the parts people are betting on, btw. that you will either trade your car, or move from the area, before you need a replacement.
Whatever you do, don't get drilled rotors...
Realistically, you shouldn't even bother with slotted rotors.
The only reason you need slotted rotors is if you're beating the everliving **** out of your brakes and you're running a track brake pad compound. Even then, it's debatable. Since I doubt you're doing either, you'll be MUCH better served by a flat face rotor.
Actually, there's a lot wrong.Nothing wrong with drilled/slotted on a daily driver plus they help with cooling.
Rotors don't change stopping torque... At all. The bite is determined by the pad. The clamping force is determined by the caliper and hydraulic system.I tow a lot soo thats how I justified drilled/slotted rotors. Sure enough they helped out immensely with stopping power and cooling like BlownGP said. Worth every penny IMO on a daily driver.
Actually, there's a lot wrong.
For one, all those holes and slots are stress risers. As the rotor expands when it heats up, each one of those is a place for the rotor to warp and crack.
I've seen an incredible amount of drilled rotors where the cracks start at the holes.
And they don't help with cooling, at all. The cooling is done by the vanes inside the rotor. Get a good vane design if you want good cooling.
Rotors don't change stopping torque... At all. The bite is determined by the pad. The clamping force is determined by the caliper and hydraulic system.
I have a 500+ rwhp race car and I run flat rotors on it because they hold up better to the abuse I put them through.
And let me tell you, this thing can STOP.
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They can crack is auto x but not under normal use. I had them on my Regal. I have them on my wifes car. I have them on my truck. None are cracked.
I've had slotted and drilled rotors on my GTP for over 15years and 30-40K miles and none them are cracked and this many many street races.
So stop with the your nonsense..
Actually, they can crack under normal use. I've seen it happen.
And your experience does not count as an entire argument. https://yourlogicalfallacyis.com/anecdotal
Just Google "drilled cracked rotor" and you'll get plenty of results on this issue.
https://www.google.com/search?q=drilled+cracked+rotors&espv=2&biw=1920&bih=947&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjNp7z29erLAhXrlIMKHahhBeoQ_AUIBygC