Bubbles (or, bubble) in trans fluid

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Blackhawk

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Actually I think i *might* know what it is, not 100% sure yet but i think it’s because i live on a incline (pretty steep) and maybe the fluid is hitting the back of the trans and all the moving bits when i climb to get up the driveway?


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Burla

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I wouldnt worry about it at this point, I bet the guys were right about working out bubbles from VB.
 
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Solved (knock on wood)

Thought fluid was at a good level, but i was wrong.

Took out a little more than half a quart, drove around, fluid is fine and the trans is shifting harder than it was before but i attribute this to it not being used to shifting with fluid that’s not bubbly.

I’m gonna do a relearn, but, fluid has 0 bubbles in it now.


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Burla

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Solved (knock on wood)

Thought fluid was at a good level, but i was wrong.

Took out a little more than half a quart, drove around, fluid is fine and the trans is shifting harder than it was before but i attribute this to it not being used to shifting with fluid that’s not bubbly.

I’m gonna do a relearn, but, fluid has 0 bubbles in it now.


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case closed, congrats

check the level over a couple days, these rfe's do not like low level.
 
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case closed, congrats

check the level over a couple days, these rfe's do not like low level.

I did this today on level ground and when i got there the trans fluid was in the middle of the dipstick at 140 and was so foamy it was hard to get an accurate level.

I correctly filled it up once it reached 180, only for me to pull over once i got home to check it only for it to be at the correct level now but still as foamy.

I don’t know exactly where to go at this point, this only started when i put in this new valve body and it’s only making things worse now.

I don’t understand how the valve body could leak so bad but have the CVIs read fine, and have no codes for low line pressure.

My other valve body had such a bad internal leak that it caused my 4C CVI to read pretty much 0, and my 2C CVI to read through the roof, yet i never got any fluid bubbling AT ALL with it.

I’m at a loss, and I really have 0 idea as to what to do now. I’ve dropped the pan more in the past week than a truck without issues would have to do in a lifetime, and i’m not really looking forward to having to drop it again to look at the valve body.

I’m convinced there’s something wrong with it as there’s nothing else i can point at. I’ve replaced both filters with their seals nearly 5 times since this has occurred, with 0 change independent of fluid level. Only thing that’s somewhat good is that the trans hasn’t overheated and stays cool while driving.

If i replace the valve body or look at it and find something wrong even after a replacement with the old vb, i’m going to let the trans grenade itself so i have an excuse to vomit the money into swapping in an 8 speed.


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Burla

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I did this today on level ground and when i got there the trans fluid was in the middle of the dipstick at 140 and was so foamy it was hard to get an accurate level.

I correctly filled it up once it reached 180, only for me to pull over once i got home to check it only for it to be at the correct level now but still as foamy.

I don’t know exactly where to go at this point, this only started when i put in this new valve body and it’s only making things worse now.

I don’t understand how the valve body could leak so bad but have the CVIs read fine, and have no codes for low line pressure.

My other valve body had such a bad internal leak that it caused my 4C CVI to read pretty much 0, and my 2C CVI to read through the roof, yet i never got any fluid bubbling AT ALL with it.

I’m at a loss, and I really have 0 idea as to what to do now. I’ve dropped the pan more in the past week than a truck without issues would have to do in a lifetime, and i’m not really looking forward to having to drop it again to look at the valve body.

I’m convinced there’s something wrong with it as there’s nothing else i can point at. I’ve replaced both filters with their seals nearly 5 times since this has occurred, with 0 change independent of fluid level. Only thing that’s somewhat good is that the trans hasn’t overheated and stays cool while driving.

If i replace the valve body or look at it and find something wrong even after a replacement with the old vb, i’m going to let the trans grenade itself so i have an excuse to vomit the money into swapping in an 8 speed.

You bought a reman VB? from where? Maybe it's a torque converter thing.
 
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You bought a reman VB? from where? Maybe it's a torque converter thing.

It was a new one off of eBay, but i have some updates.

After a week or so, and adding a quart, the fluid is still foamy but the trans is shifting beautifully. Shifts aren’t too hard but aren’t anywhere near soft, and they’re just how they need to be.

CVIs haven’t gone anywhere since this occurred, so i don’t know what that says.


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TheEnder

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It was a new one off of eBay, but i have some updates.

After a week or so, and adding a quart, the fluid is still foamy but the trans is shifting beautifully. Shifts aren’t too hard but aren’t anywhere near soft, and they’re just how they need to be.

CVIs haven’t gone anywhere since this occurred, so i don’t know what that says.


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So very sorry i haven’t responded sooner, i’ve been incredibly busy with work.

If you have filters/seals installed PERFECTLY fine in the trans, (take the pan off again just one more time to make sure) and you still have bubbles but they’re not that bad then you’re fine.

I still have bubbles in my trans and i haven’t been able to figure out where they come from, and yes, you will get air from a new valve body.

You can try an extra quart of fluid and let us know what it does, also, did you put the flat sump filter seal on all the way? Hope everything works out right!

Best regards,
Tyler


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NickSteel

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i have the same question, i have worked on my truck relentlessly but i can never get the little bit of bubbling on the dipstick to go away

i have tried valve body, seals, solenoid pack, everything

it has to be normal, right?


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Update:

I dropped the pan a few days ago and replaced the solenoid pack.

Truck is definitely running better, and the shifts are very nice and crisp after a quicklearn, but the bubbles are still there.

I also tore apart the valve body, and found nothing.

Looked at all the seals, made sure they were in right, filled it up with fluid and it’s still bubbly.

I know it’s not the filters - in park and neutral i can rev the engine to 4K the with the brakes pressed down and the fluid won’t have any bubbles when i check it right after.

Only weird thing, my OD CVI jumped from 47 to 54 despite there not being any metal in the pan when i checked.


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I wouldnt worry about it at this point, I bet the guys were right about working out bubbles from VB.

11bdb1950c3693b468f64b73f93971c8.jpg

Does this look normal? This was at operating temp (180) after a short little drive.

Trans shifts fine.

This will be (most likely) my last question on this.


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Burla

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That is pretty hot for a rfe, 180 on a short trip? You need to see if there are bubbles on a long trip, not a short trip. On a short trip the viscosity of fluid is high, so it can bubbles easier, doesn't really say much. Next long trip post a pic?
 

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Every time I scroll past this thread and see "bubbles" it makes me want to watch trailer park boys.
 

Dan98

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So there are bubbles on the dipstick so what it's not from or white sludge if there is a pressure issue because of air your clutches would burn forget about it. I assume you have proper level of the correct fluid. Does the cooler line leak down and draw air in I doubt it

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