Car Ramps modded so a Challenger/Charger/300 will drive up on them,with out the ramps sliding away

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Wild one

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@JHoward these are the ramps i was telling you about that i'd modified so the wifes last 2 Challengers and our 300 will drive up on.
 

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RamDiver

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I tried to use ramps on my friend's Elantra GT and could have used that mod.

Truth be told, they need different ramps for low clearance cars. Their ramps have side flanges that contacts the spoilers on their cars.

It was an enormous PITA where I eventually managed to get it on top of 1 ramp and slid on my back on the snow to access the oil pan drain plug.

A long story short, I needed to drain about a litre of oil out, cleaning someone else's mess. :cool:

.
 
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Wild one

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Simple Yet extremely functional
I never throw anything away,lol .An old piece of plywood cut into strips glued and screwed together,and some homemade "L" brackets made out of scrap flat bar. They're 12 years old now,and starting to show their age,but it keeps the ramps from sliding on concrete and are long enough the front spoiler on a Challenger clears the ramps when using them on the front.
I'm way to cheap to buy a set of Race Ramps :Big Laugh: :Big Laugh:
 
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Nick@GotExhaust

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@JHoward these are the ramps i was telling you about that i'd modified so the wifes last 2 Challengers and our 300 will drive up on.

Thats genius! I may have to copy that. 2 out of our 3 Mustangs are too low for ramps. How long is the longest board?
 
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Wild one

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Thats genius! I may have to copy that. 2 out of our 3 Mustangs are too low for ramps. How long is the longest board?
The bottom board is roughly 25" long,and the whole length of them is just a bit over 37" Nick.
You could make them any length you wanted though.
I prefer to use 3/4" plywood for the bottom board,so it's easy to drive up on,after that you could use 2X6's if you wanted.Once the tires are on the bottom board it won't slide away,so if you wanted to use 2X6's instead of plywood for the steps you could.I had an old scrap piece of 3/4" plywood laying around,that was more in the way then anything,and was to rough to use for anything but a set of ramps,so it's what i used.
The L brackets latch into the old ramps i have,and keeps them locked in place so the ramps don't slide on concrete,if your ramps aren't like my old ramps,you might have to come up with another way to latch them together,but a latch screwed on the side of the ramps or boards that swings over a bolt or screw on the connecting part would be easy enough to fab up,and would still be easy to work with,and you'd still be able to remove the wood section,so it'd be easy to slide under the vehicle
 
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JHoward

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Im not concerned so much as to being able to get the front end of the Challenger car off the ground ... the ramps I have for that are most adequate for that ... it's just the rear end that I want to get up off the ground.

My primary reason for getting the rear end up is I want to be able to level the car on jack stands at the rear while the front end is on ramps.

I'm considering using the PPE and filter, that I originally bought for my RAM truck that I do not have anymore, and use it on my 2023 Challenger R/T.

So, getting the rear end up and suspended and off the ground and level, I can perform an correct tranny fluid fill ...
 

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Brandon-w

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I never throw anything away,lol .An old piece of plywood cut into strips glued and screwed together,and some homemade "L" brackets made out of scrap flat bar. They're 12 years old now,and starting to show their age,but it keeps the ramps from sliding on concrete and are long enough the front spoiler on a Challenger clears the ramps when using them on the front.
I'm way to cheap to buy a set of Race Ramps :Big Laugh: :Big Laugh:
The part that concerns me is why are our dodges always up on ramps? ;)
It's not because we drive them hard haha.
 

Brandon-w

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Wild one

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Those are cool. I need a good lift. Been doing too much on the floor these days.
My neighbour has one,and it goes under his Vette with no problems.I borrowed it once to try out,and they're the cats-ass for doing tires / brakes / oil changes etc.,the only downside is the limited side access
 
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Wild one

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I actually built the ramps for my old 13,as it wouldn't drive over a garden hose with out dragging after i was done lowering it.
 

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RamDiver

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My neighbour has one,and it goes under his Vette with no problems.I borrowed it once to try out,and they're the cats-ass for doing tires / brakes / oil changes etc.,the only downside is the limited side access

Do they have some sort of mechanical safety lock?

My next house will have a full-sized lift, if that fantasy works out but otherwise, I'd like one of these. :cool:

.
 
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Wild one

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Do they have some sort of mechanical safety lock?

My next house will have a full-sized lift, if that fantasy works out but otherwise, I'd like one of these. :cool:

.
The couple i've looked at,all have a locking bar.
There's one on my local marketplace,if it sits there for a couple weeks,i'm gonna hit him with a $500 dollar offer,and see if he'll go for it,that's if my buddy doesn't buy it before me,as i sent him the add to,lol
If he buys it,i might be able to get my high lift floorjack back,as i lent it to him over a year ago,and told him he could use it till i needed it,and i haven't needed it,lol
 

Nick@GotExhaust

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The bottom board is roughly 25" long,and the whole length of them is just a bit over 37" Nick.
You could make them any length you wanted though.
I prefer to use 3/4" plywood for the bottom board,so it's easy to drive up on,after that you could use 2X6's if you wanted.Once the tires are on the bottom board it won't slide away,so if you wanted to use 2X6's instead of plywood for the steps you could.I had an old scrap piece of 3/4" plywood laying around,that was more in the way then anything,and was to rough to use for anything but a set of ramps,so it's what i used.
The L brackets latch into the old ramps i have,and keeps them locked in place so the ramps don't slide on concrete,if your ramps aren't like my old ramps,you might have to come up with another way to latch them together,but a latch screwed on the side of the ramps or boards that swings over a bolt or screw on the connecting part would be easy enough to fab up,and would still be easy to work with,and you'd still be able to remove the wood section,so it'd be easy to slide under the vehicle
Thank you, thats very helpful.
There's always one of these for a low roofed home garage.

I have these and love them. I still like to use ramps for some jobs but the quick jacks are a great option when you dont have room for a real lift. They are super stable to, I feel much safer working under the car on these than I do jack stands.

Here is my newest project using the Quick Jacks while doing a major suspension overhaul

Fox quickjacks.jpgFox before after sus.jpg
Before(bottom) and after (top)
 

M60A3 Driver

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I use Rhino ramps for my car. The nose is about 6 or 7 inches from the ground. Goes up without hitting, and they haven't slid out on me yet.
Great idea using the boards though!

ramps.jpgramps3.jpg
 
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