Changing brakes

[Cwils80]

To be honest i would be so mad I would still run it until I heard or felt something wrong lol

Best practice would probably say replace them sadly.

Or if someone else knows maybe drilled and slotted can still be turned?

 

[Matt Todd]

There is no way I’m buying a new rotor. I mean I want the best for my truck and all but I also want to be able to sleep in my bed and not have to worry about my wife killing me in my sleep when I tell her I have to buy another part for my truck

 

[ThunderMug95]

If the foreign object that caused the scratch is gone, I wouldnt worry too much about the scratch, the rotor will eventually wear down a bit. Just look at it logically, that scratch represents how much surface area on the braking system...1% maybe compared to the pad face? Id still pull the pad and verify its gone. I know it sucks....

 

[CVX20]

That cut in the rotor won't hurt anything but I would pull the caliper and check to see if there is something inbeded in the pad causing the cut.

 

[Skyjockey]

Any tricks to get the rotors off? Very well rusted in place

 

[jasonw]

Any tricks to get the rotors off? Very well rusted in place

If you're replacing the rotors, with the old ones' next stop being the garbage can, best technique for well-rusted ones I've found is a 3 lb or 4 lb sledge. Hit left side, then right side, then top, then bottom, then repeat. And hit hard. This will wiggle the thing loose. Took me about 10 minutes of that for my passenger side front to finally come loose. Driver side front was a bit easier, only took 5 minutes once I found my sledge. Doing the rear ones today, we'll see how bad they are.

I also sprayed the back side and in the stud holes with some PB Blaster. That stuff works wonders.

Won't hurt to tap the center between the studs a bit either, but take care not to hit the studs accidentally! I put on my lug nuts loosely to give the studs some protection, in case my aim slipped.

 

[ThunderMug95]

Second the PB Blaster. I liberally sprayed around the hub lip and then used a small wire brush and just kept working it over. Then used my 4lb hammer and whacked it several times. My rear rotors were way tougher than the front. Remember do not set your emergency brake or your experience will include a trip to the Sanitarium...haha. I ran a bit of anti-seize around the hub before I slid on my R1’s.

 

[William Hastings]

I haven't done them yet, do our rotors have the 6 or 8mm threaded hole that u can use to screw in a bolt and pop em free?

 

[MoparBrent]

I know your pain of seized rotors. Living in northern Ontario with salt galore.

As people have said above just beat the crap out of it with a sledge, some sort of penetrating fluid, and a few choice swear words and it’ll come off

 

[Matt Todd]

Yeah I agree with the mallet approach, a few we’ll placed hits while rotating your aim to hit all the way around and it should wiggle itself loose. I did the front and rear Saturday and like I said the rear ones were a *****. I did not have the emergency brake applied and they were still very stuck. I found(and correct me if I’m wrong) a little slot in the back side of the rear brake assembly big enough to get a small flat head screw driver in there and with a few adjustments I was able to loosen the emergency brake tension a little. I could be wrong about that last one as my father in law was the one to come help me out and he came up with that idea.

 

[Elevated 2013]

Any tricks to get the rotors off? Very well rusted in place

I just use a bfh (big freaking hammer) and hit on the outside of the rotor until it wobbles off only do that if you’re replacing them though as they will be done. If you’re working on rear rotors, you can always unadjust the parking brakes and that helps. I’ve only had 1 instance where hitting them didn’t work as the hat separated from the disc. That was just weird!!


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[Elevated 2013]

Yeah I agree with the mallet approach, a few we’ll placed hits while rotating your aim to hit all the way around and it should wiggle itself loose. I did the front and rear Saturday and like I said the rear ones were a *****. I did not have the emergency brake applied and they were still very stuck. I found(and correct me if I’m wrong) a little slot in the back side of the rear brake assembly big enough to get a small flat head screw driver in there and with a few adjustments I was able to loosen the emergency brake tension a little. I could be wrong about that last one as my father in law was the one to come help me out and he came up with that idea.

Matt,

That slot is to adjust the parking brake in or out and that will help to loosen the rear rotors and possibly make getting the rear rotors off. Just stick a flathead screwdriver in there and try moving the rotor like spinning the wheel and it gets easier, then you’re going the right direction. Reverse the process after the new rotors are on to adjust your parking brake to the proper spot.


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[Chicken smasher]

13mm caliper bolts and 22 mm for the mounting bracket. Same size as the lug nut socket.

 

[TomB 1269]

Sorry, I can’t give specific socket sizes. It’s been more than a few days since I felt with my brakes.
However, I will say this; Inspect everything really well!!!

The last time I did the brakes on my 12, I missed a cracked piston. Didn’t find it until the caliper locked up on my the next day.

Someone, somewhere decided that plastic(actually some kind of composite) would be a good material to make brake pistons out of.

/QUOTE]

Most likely Phenolic pistons, corrosion resistance and decrease heat transfer from brake pad in to brake fluid. They have been using these for about 3 decades or more

 

[muddy12]

Most likely Phenolic pistons, corrosion resistance and decrease heat transfer from brake pad in to brake fluid. They have been using these for about 3 decades or more

That’s all well and good. I was just pointing out that they should be inspected.



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[Matt Todd]

So I’m sure everyone’s over explaining brake issues with me but I’ve got one more. The moment my truck comes to a stop the brakes makes what I can only describe as a “grunt” or as my son calls it...a fart lol(it’s not a high pitch squeal). Maybe it’s nothing, maybe it’s something...I don’t know. Anyone know what I’m talking about?

 

[Elevated 2013]

Possibly some joints or body mounts or shock/strut mounts just grunting. It’s something that lube might just take care of?? It’s hard to say for sure without hearing the exact grunt but I know the General noise you’re talking about.


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[BIGMIKE27]

Those EBC green stuff makes a lot of dust

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