Check your intake manifold bolts

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dennish

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Aug 25, 2019
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Oregon
Ram Year
2019
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Hemi 5.7
Just checked my 2019 5.7. Couldn't believe how much I had to tighten the bolts. One question though, how do you get a decent grip on #9 without stripping the head. With a 6" extension and a torque ***** it's hard to steady.
 

Shawn Burns

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Lewisburg, PA
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2016 Rebel
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Hemi 5.7
Thanks for this! I did my pre-towing season maintenance weekend recently and I decided to add this to my list. I own a 2016 Rebel with 55k miles. I'll bet each bolt had 1 ft/lb. I'm surprised I didn't get a code. They are now 108 inch/lbs. I'll check these once per year
 

joesstripclub

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Littleton, CO
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2018
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Hemi 5.7
I checked these this past weekend. Most of the bolts needed tightened. I didn't use a torque wrench, but I bet I got a quarter to half turn on most. What was a bit concerning was 3 bolts that didn't move at all. I had the ratchet set backwards at first so had to go back over a couple, but those bolts wouldn't turn in either direction. At least they weren't loose but I worry if I ever have to remove them. Hopefully they just have some thread sealant on them but maybe there is already some corrosion set in.

I can definitely tell I got some torque back though. The truck seems to hold 8th to a little slower speeds before it down shifts. Interested to see if it makes a difference towing.
 

ic3man5

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2019
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5.7L
I tightened mine last night. I went to 130in-lbs (10.83ft-lbs) as I figured 10in-lbs won't be enough to crack the plastic and since they always loosen up this is my attempt to keep them tight. If they loosen up by next oil change I'm going to use high temp thread locker. There is a noticeable increase in power throughout the entire curve, the transmission is shifting better, and there are no power surges anymore (like a weak 2-stroke powerband).

Some data logging information:

No logging for this but my truck originally gave a code P219 a month or so ago. This is how I came across the intake manifold bolt issue (There isn't much out there on this). I've been dealing with knock/retard since I bought the truck a couple years ago. I assumed it was the knock sensors being extra sensitive.

Before anything done:
1681565183376.png

Intake Manifold bolts tightened to 130in-lbs (Passenger side had spark plugs replaced and gapped normally at 0.040"):
1681565216935.png

Replaced all spark plugs and gapped at 0.045" (There seems to be conflicting information everywhere on spark plug gapping, but from the deep dive I've done 0.045" seems to be the sweet spot - They are pre-gapped to 0.040):
1681565264879.png

The knock retard on the last one actually seems legit knock, might be from bad gas or the fact that I have techron concentrate fuel system cleaner in the gas right now. Most of the spark plugs were gapped at 0.040" that I pulled out but a couple were 0.043" or 0.035". My theory is from factory they are using the stock gap of 0.040" and not checking them.
 

Adamcr68

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Lorton VA
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2015
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Hemifever 5.7
This hasn't been talked about for awhile,but check your intake manifold bolts.They call for 108 in-lbs or roughly 9 ft-lbs of torque,and they should be checked at least yearly,as they do loosen up. I've been doing mine at least twice a year on all 3 of of my hemi equipped vehicles.They should be checked and torqued when the engine is cold.I just use my calibrated hand and a 1/4" drive rachet / 6" extension and 5/16's socket and just give them a twist by hand,but if you don't trust your hand,an inch lb torque wrench should be used.There's 10 of them on 5.7's and 6.4's. I've done them enough,i know the torque sequence ,but if you don't know the sequence it's easy enough to look up
Checked mine today, I don’t have a small torque wrench but followed your advice with the 1/4” drive. Most were tight but did get a couple that turned 3/4 to 1 turn to feel as tight as the rest. I decided to leave the engine cover off. Thanks for the tip Wildone!
 
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