Converting 2016 Ram 1500 to return style fuel system.

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James OBrien

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Cool, thanks! I've got the 48mm FIC 650s.

BTW, aren't they awesome injectors?
 
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Josh22855

Josh22855

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Hey Josh, I'm assuming you took the power wire going to the stock pump and ran it to 'Remote 1'? I'm waiting on one or two more fittings and will be doing this upgrade later in the week!
Remote 1 all you need to do is have a switched power source, all I did is use a toggle switch for mine. So every time before starting the truck I have to turn the switch on to kick on pump # 1. For remote 2 use a Hobbs switch, when your intake pressure hits around 4psi the switch will close and kick on your 2nd fuel pump. You will not use any wiring from the stock fuel pump system. Let me know if you need anything else, happy to help.
 

James OBrien

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Gotcha, thanks. That surprises me a bit, thought the fuel pump pressure was regulared by the voltage sent to the pump, it must be a constant pressure system and just focus on injection duty cycle.
 

Fast69Mopar

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Gotcha, thanks. That surprises me a bit, thought the fuel pump pressure was regulared by the voltage sent to the pump, it must be a constant pressure system and just focus on injection duty cycle.
You are correct. The fuel pump is supplied constant B+ battery voltage and the PCM regulates the injector pulse width to maintain the commanded AFR.
 
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Josh22855

Josh22855

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Gotcha, thanks. That surprises me a bit, thought the fuel pump pressure was regulared by the voltage sent to the pump, it must be a constant pressure system and just focus on injection duty cycle.
Yeah now with your new fuel system your pump(s) will be on @ 100% duty and your regulator will control the pressure. Make sure your regulator has a boost reference port.
 

James OBrien

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Well, finally finished my own install yesterday and am very pleased with the result, although now I need to update my tune!

Couple of things. As Josh points out in his excellent documentation the Fore fuel rails on the Drivers side need some serious tweaking to work correctly. When I called Fore they basically said I was out of luck getting spacers/configuration for the truck intake 5.7 manifold. The passenger side Fore rails worked fine, although the mounting tab is thicker than stock and messes with the attachment bolts, and no matter what I did I could never get the drivers side to seal all of the injectors correctly especially the first one. I really dislike having to use spacers and shim out a bunch, the further away the rails are from the manifold the less stable it is and I had visions of high pressure fuel spraying around the engine compartment. No matter what I did I could never get the drivers side to seal all of the injectors correctly especially the first one.

I gave up and got the Holley fuel rails. The biggest difference is aux port locations and the fore rails are much beefier, but not necessary. If you need to beat someone to death the fore rails are your choice. If you want easy to install rails that work, go Holley.

The Holley fuel rails are perfect. Ordered them through Jegs, part number 510-534-284, and they were cheaper. Very close to stock including the mounting tabs and zero fitment issues. They also retain the stock injector retainer clips which made me feel better.

Pics of Holley rails and stock.
 

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Josh22855

Josh22855

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Well, finally finished my own install yesterday and am very pleased with the result, although now I need to update my tune!

Couple of things. As Josh points out in his excellent documentation the Fore fuel rails on the Drivers side need some serious tweaking to work correctly. When I called Fore they basically said I was out of luck getting spacers/configuration for the truck intake 5.7 manifold. The passenger side Fore rails worked fine, although the mounting tab is thicker than stock and messes with the attachment bolts, and no matter what I did I could never get the drivers side to seal all of the injectors correctly especially the first one. I really dislike having to use spacers and shim out a bunch, the further away the rails are from the manifold the less stable it is and I had visions of high pressure fuel spraying around the engine compartment. No matter what I did I could never get the drivers side to seal all of the injectors correctly especially the first one.

I gave up and got the Holley fuel rails. The biggest difference is aux port locations and the fore rails are much beefier, but not necessary. If you need to beat someone to death the fore rails are your choice. If you want easy to install rails that work, go Holley.

The Holley fuel rails are perfect. Ordered them through Jegs, part number 510-534-284, and they were cheaper. Very close to stock including the mounting tabs and zero fitment issues. They also retain the stock injector retainer clips which made me feel better.

Pics of Holley rails and stock.
Yeah the reason you were having such an issue with the Fore fuel rails is because the rails were coming in contact with the plastic molding on the intake manifold. You would have needed fuel injector extensions(8x), this would make your 48mm injector into a 60mm injector and would clear the piece of plastic that the rail was hitting....ask me how I know...lol....Then you would have needed shims in between the fuel rail bolt tabs and the mounting holes on the intake manifold. Then take your factory fuel rail screws to Ace hardware and get 4x slightly longer ones.
 

Fast69Mopar

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Well, finally finished my own install yesterday and am very pleased with the result, although now I need to update my tune!

Couple of things. As Josh points out in his excellent documentation the Fore fuel rails on the Drivers side need some serious tweaking to work correctly. When I called Fore they basically said I was out of luck getting spacers/configuration for the truck intake 5.7 manifold. The passenger side Fore rails worked fine, although the mounting tab is thicker than stock and messes with the attachment bolts, and no matter what I did I could never get the drivers side to seal all of the injectors correctly especially the first one. I really dislike having to use spacers and shim out a bunch, the further away the rails are from the manifold the less stable it is and I had visions of high pressure fuel spraying around the engine compartment. No matter what I did I could never get the drivers side to seal all of the injectors correctly especially the first one.

I gave up and got the Holley fuel rails. The biggest difference is aux port locations and the fore rails are much beefier, but not necessary. If you need to beat someone to death the fore rails are your choice. If you want easy to install rails that work, go Holley.

The Holley fuel rails are perfect. Ordered them through Jegs, part number 510-534-284, and they were cheaper. Very close to stock including the mounting tabs and zero fitment issues. They also retain the stock injector retainer clips which made me feel better.

Pics of Holley rails and stock.
I really like the Holley fuel rails. I have never had any issues with them. I also like the fact that you can retain the stock injector retaining clips to secure the injectors to the fuel rail.
 

James OBrien

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Yep, saw those extensions and funny enough I did get longer screw/bolts from Ace! Just didn't want to mess with it, now I've got some slightly used Fore fuel rails to get rid of...
 

MOPAR78

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Great info here on the return fuel system!! My tuner said I would need this for my build, so this post really helps! I just ordered my MMX pump set up, finally found some Whipple fuel rails & now on the way to Fore Innovations to get the rest of the stuff!! Again, great write up!

Thanks!
 

MOPAR78

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Thanks for the information. That would be an added anti theft deterrent switching it like that. I got the FC3 Staged Controller with 4 gauge wiring, Sealed Delphi Connector, 7' 12 AWG pigtail & Honeywell Pressure Switch for FC3. I'm setting mine up to switched with the regular set up and using the pressure switch to operate the second pump when needed.
 

James OBrien

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I ended up with the same setup pretty much. I mounted my FC3 in the engine bay behind the battery, some say you're supposed to mount it in the cab but it's a pretty robust unit. I just got all my 8AN/ORB fittings and tubing off Amazon, mostly Evil Energy stuff which worked out great. Did 6AN on the return and used the stock 'supply line'. Some say to run 8AN back, I sort of wish I had, but this setup works for me.
 

MOPAR78

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Just called MMX, they said it was a 10. I'll just go 10 all the way with hoses & fittings.
 
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