Coolant leak around ATI pulley?

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Jwithing

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Hey guys,

Pulled my truck into the garage to change the oil. Drained it and went to the front to pull the filter and noticed coolant on the garage floor. Coolant reservoir is 1 bubble lower than max. Temp is 30 degrees outside and haven't noticed any spots on the driveway. Looks like there's splatter around the ATI pulley, but the majority seems to be dripping down from somewhere and catching on the oil pan lip. Finished up the oil change and let it run a bit. No overheating and just a slow drip from the oil pan lip. Looks like it may be coming from around the water pump? Thoughts? Pics below.IMG_20181208_144058.jpg IMG_20181208_144404.jpg IMG_20181208_144250.jpg
 

FF1899

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Looks like the water pump is starting to go and leaking down on to the pulley. Time to replace before it completely goes!
 
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Jwithing

Jwithing

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That's what I was thinking and hoping. Wasn't sure and a bit surprised since I only have 56K on the truck.

Thanks fellas. Any water pump recommendations?
 

Dark Knight 500

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With a coolant leak, my first thought led are the thermostat or water pump. I’d change them together to avoid a potential headache later


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Jwithing

Jwithing

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With a coolant leak, my first thought led are the thermostat or water pump. I’d change them together to avoid a potential headache later


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Doesn't look to be coming from the thermo. Changing it at the same time is a good idea though. Have 26k on the current 180 tstat and have had two go out between 30k-36k on a previous 300c
 

savage_46

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Whatever it is, you'd be able to visibly trace it without a pressure tester. Highest point is thermostat, would be leaking from the housing. Usually water pumps start to leak at the bearings or weep hole. Rarely see a hemi leak from the gasket. Timing cover usually from the mid/lower sides.
 

FF1899

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Whatever it is, you'd be able to visibly trace it without a pressure tester. Highest point is thermostat, would be leaking from the housing. Usually water pumps start to leak at the bearings or weep hole. Rarely see a hemi leak from the gasket. Timing cover usually from the mid/lower sides.
Look at the picture it is coming from the shaft seal behind the pully not the gasket. Its classic and normal water pump leakage and is simply time to replace. No need to over think it. Also the whole entire area around the thermostat is completely dry and is visibly not leaking however yes while the system is open replace it.
 

savage_46

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Yeah, I didn't see that. It was a late night for me.

I agree with replacing thermostat. Make sure the vent hole is at 12 o'clock.
 
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Jwithing

Jwithing

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Unfucking believable... Last bolt for my water pump just snapped off. Was torwuing down to 33 ft lbs each. Ograbbed my first torque wrench and I are suspicious that it wasn't working correctly. So I grabbed my digital torque wrench and the last freaking bolt just below the thermostat housing broke off at 26 ft lb read out!?!?

Why is this always my luck on the last bolt? Having flashbacks to my header nightmare... No way in hell I'm going to be able to back that out. It was one of the long bolts. Suggestions?IMG_20181214_170017.jpg IMG_20181214_170644.jpg
 

McBroom

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Unfucking believable... Last bolt for my water pump just snapped off. Was torwuing down to 33 ft lbs each. Ograbbed my first torque wrench and I are suspicious that it wasn't working correctly. So I grabbed my digital torque wrench and the last freaking bolt just below the thermostat housing broke off at 26 ft lb read out!?!?

Why is this always my luck on the last bolt? Having flashbacks to my header nightmare... No way in hell I'm going to be able to back that out. It was one of the long bolts. Suggestions?View attachment 149258 View attachment 149259

Gonna have to drill n use an eazout tool or drill tap for a new bolt. I’d go for idea #1 first


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Jwithing

Jwithing

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Gonna have to drill n use an eazout tool or drill tap for a new bolt. I’d go for idea #1 first


I Love my 18 Ram 2500HD 4x4 CC
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Yeah, those are the usual steps. I don't seem to have any skill at that. Tried both. Started tapping a tread and my step kicked out from under me and I bored somewhere diagonally..... Not going to have a mental breakdown like I did with my oil pan. RTV sealant on the exterior and ******* it. I wonder if I'm subconsciously trying to detonate my engine for an excuse to rebuild.
 

savage_46

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Being a long bolt, it should be going through the timing cover. You could weld it out....build up a stud, then weld a nut to that & back it out. Theres a lot less of a risk that way than drilling next to aluminum.
 

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@Wild one
Well ****, the fact that you liked my buck toothed solution means I must be doing somethin' right!

LOL.

There is another way to probably get at what's left of the stud,but you're not gonna like it as you've already had issues with the oil pan,but you could pull the timing cover,as there's a chance some of the stud is sticking out of the engine block,but as I said it's not gonna be an easy task,but it might be better then trying to get at it with an easy out.
 

indept

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It may be too late but it looked like the bolt snapped flush with the water pump surface so couldn't you have removed tge pump and grabbed what was sticking out with vise grips?
 

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Tip for drilling for an easy out is use a centre punch to get centered to start drilling and go as big as possible without getting into the threads as bigger easy outs do not snap as easy. No cheap easy outs unless you feel like die grinding them out when they break. Good luck. I've been there and know how frustrating it is and how great a feeling it is if you start threading the bolt out. As long as its not bottomed out it shouldn't be too tight.
 

crackerjack1957

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Center drill with the shank size close to hole diameter of water pump to center & spot starting point for a left handed drill bit that will spin bolt out as drilling 50% of the time.
Screw extractor gets the other 40%.......drill & tap for Helicoil or next size up other 10%
 
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