Coolant Temps exceeding Tstat specs

[theblackduck87]

OK... So before y'all jump all over me with the stock answers and solutions, I've been down that road unless there's something I've missed.

Did an engine swap back in Sept of '22. Truck is still running great. Changed the Tstat to a 185 degree F. during the swap. The tune was changed to accommodate the new Tstat. Truck warms up to that and when driving operates at 185 or slightly below at times.
I'm still running the Mechanical fan as well as the electric fan. Fan clutch was changed when the swap was done. Water pump is newish as well.
My only issue with the coolant temp is that at idle it starts to climb slightly...worse(higher and quicker) if I'm sitting in rush hour traffic.
If I put it in neutral and rev the engine a bit I can see the temp start to come down and once I start moving the temp goes back to the 185 range. I never noticed this before as my original engine ran in the 210 to 220 range.
The reason This is being brought up I want to delete my Mechanical fan, but if the electric fan cannot keep up it would not be helpful to remove the mech fan.

Is anybody else having this issue

 

[Dean2]

Air conditioning on, hot weather, engine temp will climb if you are sitting still. There is not enough coolant flow through the rad at idle, and maybe not enough air flow either, though most often it is caused by low coolant flow. The 185 stat is just where is opens, it has no part to play after the stat opens up. What does the temp max out at if you do nothing? As long as it stays below 220, you don't have much to worry about, but before removing any fans I suggest you try not running the mechanical fan first, to see if the electric can keep up.

 

[theblackduck87]

I never let the temp et above 212. Once I noticed it climbing I started trying to increase airflow.
It is a much more noticeable rate of cclimb in bumper to bumper.

Thanks for the feedback

 

[Dean2]

I never let the temp et above 212. Once I noticed it climbing I started trying to increase airflow.
It is a much more noticeable rate of cclimb in bumper to bumper.

Thanks for the feedback

If the ambient temperature is higher in bumper to bumper, and it often is because you have all those vehicles around you blowing out heat too, that will cause the temp to rise sooner. It does however also reduce free airflow and increases the time spent at low speeds so that has an effect. Only way to test it is to let the temp climb and see where it maxs out. May need a bigger rad, assuming the one you have has zero blockage or other issues or just a higher volume water pump.

 

[theblackduck87]

May need a bigger rad, assuming the one you have has zero blockage or other issues or just a higher volume water pump.

As far as I know there are no blockages. Rad was replaced when the water pump was.
Thanks again.

 

[MADDOG]

Coolant temp is affected by ambient temperature and amount of air flow across the radiator. The fan is not the only contributor to such flow and sitting still reduces that flow by a considerable extent. You noted that if you rev'd the engine the coolant temp would drop a bit which demonstrates how airflow helps keep the temps down.

Now, consider the amount air flow that is introduced at 45 MPH and compare it to airflow available at 0 MPH.

Having the temps rise while idling and sitting in traffic, with not airflow being added as a result of the vehicle moving through the air, is normal.

 

[Burla]

Nothing doesnt sound normal, as long as you are under 230f you dont have an issue. You can try water wetter. If you think there is a clog rmi 25 will reset coolant system back to new, then you go water wetter, but I doubt there is any issue, idle always brings up temps so does slow commute traffic. You can wash radiator fins as well.

 

[Burla]

read the reviews...

 

[JHoward]

So, just what engine do you have?

 

[Dean2]

So, just what engine do you have?

It is right in his Avatar. Year, motor etc. I know this doesn't showup easily if you are reading the threads on a phone, nice to have it on the PC though.

theblackduck87​

Member​

Joined Mar 14, 2017 Posts 61 Reaction score 52 Location Clermont, Florida Ram Year 2012 Engine 6.4L SRT8 HEMI

 

[EdGs]

You can wash radiator fins as well.

This is something I need to check out on my '15, have noticed coolant temp go up to 217 a few times. Completely stock truck, 170k miles. Original water pump.

Coolant levels are fine, but have never hosed out the fins on the rad. Might be a good bit til I can check it out.

 

[Burla]

This is something I need to check out on my '15, have noticed coolant temp go up to 217 a few times. Completely stock truck, 170k miles. Original water pump.

Coolant levels are fine, but have never hosed out the fins on the rad. Might be a good bit til I can check it out.

do you have shutters on that year?

 

[EdGs]

do you have shutters on that year?

Yes.

And we have lovebugs here in FL. I have not noticed them being unusually heavy, but have cleaned some off the truck a few times.

I've never had the grille off or anything, but I have thought about removing some of the AGS fins. Never had any AGS codes that I know of, either.

Plus, the higher temp thing doesn't seem to happen every time I run the truck, but I have noticed it when I use the skinny pedal more often.....

 

[Burla]

I would say in florida you would have about a 0.000000000000000000 need for shutters on your truck, get those suckers off, lol.

 

[1SLwLS1]

What is your oil temperature at various data points? Idling in traffic, cruising down the road, etc.

 

[theblackduck87]

So, just what engine do you have?

I had a bad HEMI tick that took out the 5.7 and got a sweet deal on a brand spanking new SRT8 6.4 liter and dropped that in there. One of these days I'm going to sit down and post the swap I did. Including the damage I found to the 5.7. Plus problems that arose from the swap.

 

[theblackduck87]

I would say in florida you would have about a 0.000000000000000000 need for shutters on your truck, get those suckers off, lol.

Mine does not nor did it ever have shutters. Verified that when the rad and condenser came out.
And I'm just now realizing the above quote was not pointed at me.

 

[Bigskyroadglide]

If coolant temp stays below 230, you have no issues. Especially if once moving it declines. Replacing the mechanical fan with an efan should keep Temps under control. If you have doubts just run the AC the parameters of your tune, say run fan if AC on, unless you have modified them.

Oil temp should get above 212 to boil off any moisture in the oil.

My opinion