Custom Rear Seat 12V Power and USB Ports

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ckleinfeld

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I used one of the 20amp circuits that normally powers the heated seats, since I don't have those but a relay setup would work just fine. If you want them live all of the time then all you need is a fuse, not even a relay.

-K
I looked at those, thought about using them. Ended up going with a dedicated relay though, just gave me a bit more peace of mind.

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808ram1500

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Only Crew Cabs come with rear vents. Quad Cabs do not......which makes no sense.


2018 2500 6.4 4x4 4.10 Amsoil SS 0w-40
2016 Durango 5.7 AWD 3.07 Amsoil SS 5W-30

An American truck (Dodge) that has parts made Mexico doesn't make sense either. Found that out when I had to have my PCM/TIPM replaced last year. Paid $2k for OEM parts that says made in Mexico. I was like WTF?!....
 

AFMoulton

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An American truck (Dodge) that has parts made Mexico doesn't make sense either. Found that out when I had to have my PCM/TIPM replaced last year. Paid $2k for OEM parts that says made in Mexico. I was like WTF?!....

Most every vehicle now a days has parts or assembly in another country. Hard pressed to find a vehicle solely made from American parts and assembled in America. Sad


2018 2500 6.4 4x4 4.10 Amsoil SS 0w-40
2016 Durango 5.7 AWD 3.07 Amsoil SS 5W-30
1996 Nissan Altima 2.4 Amsoil SS 5W-30
 

S0CAL

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@kad, you sir are genius. First, because you used a 3D printer and sketches/mock-ups and 2nd because the result looks factory. Hats off to you. I had NO idea that a 3D printer could be used for something like this. I am looking to do this, but as pointed out, I will need to carve up the rear of the jumper seat vents. I am cool with that though.

If a 3D printer could replicate both color and texture of the Ram (or any vehicle for that matter), imagine the fabrication possibilities. Tweeter PODs, light housings, the list is endless. I really enjoyed your DIY man. (Can you tell?) :waytogo:
 

Ramitiner

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This is just perfect... I have exactly the same setup as you (Crew Cab express)... just got one more question because I'm horrible with this stuff... can I see where you ran the wires and where they hooked up to the power and ground? Also on the link you provided it states it only the left side... is it both sides or just the left?
 
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kad

kad

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This is just perfect... I have exactly the same setup as you (Crew Cab express)... just got one more question because I'm horrible with this stuff... can I see where you ran the wires and where they hooked up to the power and ground? Also on the link you provided it states it only the left side... is it both sides or just the left?

There are two links there, one for the left side piece and one for the right. To put a port on each side like I did you'll need one of each. I don't have any pictures of the wiring, but it's pretty simple. They run under the jump seat to under the drivers seat. Under the drivers seat they go into the existing hole in the carpet (the one the factory seat wires go through) and then run through the factory wiring channel that runs under the driver's door sill to under the dash. The ground is attached to the factory ground bolt behind the drivers side kick panel and the 12V+ is attached to a wire that I ran through the firewall to the fuse box. I tapped one of the unused (on my truck and probably any unmodified Express) power seat fuses.

Here's a post on how to run the wire through the firewall: https://www.ramforum.com/threads/in...e-plate-for-running-wires-into-the-cab.117923

-K
 
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kad

kad

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@kad, you sir are genius. First, because you used a 3D printer and sketches/mock-ups and 2nd because the result looks factory. Hats off to you. I had NO idea that a 3D printer could be used for something like this. I am looking to do this, but as pointed out, I will need to carve up the rear of the jumper seat vents. I am cool with that though.

If a 3D printer could replicate both color and texture of the Ram (or any vehicle for that matter), imagine the fabrication possibilities. Tweeter PODs, light housings, the list is endless. I really enjoyed your DIY man. (Can you tell?) :waytogo:

Aw shucks.... :) Glad you like it. With one of the high end 3D printers and a higher end 3D program I think you could duplicate the texture of the factory stuff. And the plastic both comes in various colors and can be dyed, so if you were willing to put in the effort, you probably could do what you're talking about. The thing is, for right now, the cost per unit and the production time per unit would be too high to be feasible as a bulk product. For right now, it's best suited to one-offs and prototypes. If I was going to try and sell these commercially what I would do is take my design files to a plastic molding firm and have them create an injection mold for the parts. That would cost thousands (last I checked) so even though the pieces would be pennies to produce, they'd have to be sold for much more to pay for the setup costs.

-K
 

S0CAL

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Agreed. I am just looking for business ventures to offset an impending limited restructuring at my corporation. I see the writing on the wall, it's time to diversify income streams....
 

Ramitiner

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There are two links there, one for the left side piece and one for the right. To put a port on each side like I did you'll need one of each. I don't have any pictures of the wiring, but it's pretty simple. They run under the jump seat to under the drivers seat. Under the drivers seat they go into the existing hole in the carpet (the one the factory seat wires go through) and then run through the factory wiring channel that runs under the driver's door sill to under the dash. The ground is attached to the factory ground bolt behind the drivers side kick panel and the 12V+ is attached to a wire that I ran through the firewall to the fuse box. I tapped one of the unused (on my truck and probably any unmodified Express) power seat fuses.

Here's a post on how to run the wire through the firewall: https://www.ramforum.com/threads/in...e-plate-for-running-wires-into-the-cab.117923

-K

Thanks brother. so since you ran it that way, the outlet is always on, right? any chance you can show me which fuse it was that you used? I know I'm being a pita just never did this stuff before.
 
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kad

kad

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Thanks brother. so since you ran it that way, the outlet is always on, right? any chance you can show me which fuse it was that you used? I know I'm being a pita just never did this stuff before.

Actually the fuse I used is only on when the truck is. Fuses F98 & F97 are for the front and rear heated seats, respectively. As long as you don't have heated seats you can use either. You'll need a "micro 2 fuse tap" like this: https://www.amazon.com/Lumision-SHIPPING-CIRCUIT-FUSE-TAP-TERMINAL/dp/B00OZFNJI6

-K
 

carcandy

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Thank you for creating and sharing the bracket. Excellent job! I ordered a set and got everything pre-wired this evening. Will install in the am. My goal is to try to use factory parts or make is look as factory as possible when doing mods.

I was able to source Mopar parts for the usb and 12v sockets and covers. The holes for the aftermarket were slightly bigger for the 12v socket so I epoxied it in. I also painted them charcoal to flow with the interior of the bighorn interior. Also like you I had to modify the socket due to it hitting the seat bracket. Had to cut it and solder a pigtail on.

Thanks again, super excited about these!

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Kingsize

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Kingsize

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And 10 days later they arrive.

Thanks again OP. Talk about a well designed part. It's very well braced internally. I'll try to get these installed in the next week or two.

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