Cut my rear springs on Ground Force 2/3 kit

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Milt IV

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Background - 2015 Sport CC 4x4 with Ground Force 2/3 drop kit #9984. Was sitting about an inch higher in the rear than the front after driving on the kit for about a month.

I wanted to get rid of the 1" rake so the truck would sit level. I had read that cutting a full coil off the rear gives you 1" drop but all those post were regarding Belltech springs. I figured I would start with 3/4 of a coil off my GF springs and see what it did.

After cutting 3/4 coil off each side and driving around last night and today I ended up with netting about 1/2" more drop on the driver side and NO more drop on the passenger side.

This is puzzling to me. I cut the exact same off each spring. I made sure to get the springs seated exactly back in their original spot in their top pads (see pics below). I also tried to install the springs back in the same position that they were before they were taken out. I made sure the bottom of each spring was cocked the exact same way it was before I removed them, obviously the top of the coil is in a slightly different position because the cut was made at the top of the coil.

Only thing I can figure is that the springs rates are different from side to side to compensate for gas tank and driver weight on the driver side. I'm going to drive around for the weekend, making a trip to the lake house, and see where it sits when I get back home.

I still need another 1/2" of drop on the driver side to get level with the front and still need the full 1" drop on the passenger side to get level since the first cut seems to have done nothing. If it doesn't settle at all I will inspect everything to make sure nothing moved during re-installation. If all appears the same I will remove them again, cut a little more off the driver side, and even more than that off the passenger side. Check back next week for updates.

Here are some of the pics I took. Didn't get a bunch as I was trying to get this done after work and before wifey had dinner ready.

Where I made the cut
20151112_191141_zpszzwkcitr.jpg

How much was cut off
20151112_193857_zpsqrpct7zz.jpg

Spring out on drivers side. Lower shock bolt removed. Truck up on jack stands with rear end being supported by jack. Lower the rear end down just enough to get the springs out. You can also see the rubber pad that the top of the spring seats in sitting on the ground in this pic.
20151112_191003_zpshlgpd76q.jpg

Driver side spring still in but with rear end lowered. Just hadn't pulled the spring out in this pic for comparison.
20151112_191009_zpsahrzgdqc.jpg

In this pic you can see the spring seated in the rubber pad at the top. Imperative you get the spring back in the grove worn in this pad. Then the pad must be seated in the spring pocket.
20151112_191646_zpskcwujus4.jpg

shot from inside the spring looking up. spring and spring pad seated in the spring pocket.
20151112_191722_zpsxod9quwg.jpg
 
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Milt IV

Milt IV

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Little update. I got to thinking today that maybe the spring on the passenger side wasn't seated as well in the pocket as I thought. It just didn't make sense to get 1/2" drop on the driver side and no drop on passenger side after cutting the same amount off.

So this evening I unbolted the shock on the passenger side, rotated the spring a little, and double tripple checked that I had the spring seated in the pocket perfectly.

Took the family out to dinner and checked my gaps when we got back. Didn't put a tape measure to it yet but the hand between the tire/fender test looks like it's even now side to side.

Unfortunately now it appears that I only netted a lil less than a 1/2" drop on each side with the cut springs. If it hasn't settled any more by the time we get home from the lake tomorrow I'm definitely going to hack some more off the springs and get this bad boy level front to back. The rake is killing me.
 

sicmadek

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Look at the factory springs and you will notice the driver is taller. The drive side has more weight so it will be lower. Mine and thads did it so we had to cut the passenger cut.
 

Graygoose

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Looks great!
 

SilverSurfer15

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it looks perfect to me, i think you are going to screw it up if you cut more lol. Another 2" maybe? 1.5"? Playing with fire I think lol
 
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Milt IV

Milt IV

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it looks perfect to me, i think you are going to screw it up if you cut more lol. Another 2" maybe? 1.5"? Playing with fire I think lol

It would be risky. I haven't fully decided if I'm going to cut more or not. I really wish I could get the entire truck lower. As it sits now I'd like about 2" more drop up front and 2.5" more drop out back. It's just not low enough for me as it sits right now.

To be honest, I'm kind of getting tired of the whole static drop, it's not low enough, rides kinda rough, I want it slammed but functional dilemma. This is the 5th static dropped truck I've owned, it's gettin old. I'm seriously considering sending my truck off to Little Shop MFG in TN or Nfamus down here in TX to get a full custom bag setup to lay frame. I'm just not sure if I really want to spend all that money. Sure, I could send it to some lesser shop around here in DFW and get it bagged for less money than what Little Shop or Nfamus would charge me. But to really do it right, to where it will lay frame, drive properly at ride height, and have quality components that will hold up and can be trusted it needs to be done by a shop that really knows how to fab up a custom suspension.
 

Dubstep Shep

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Look at the factory springs and you will notice the driver is taller. The drive side has more weight so it will be lower. Mine and thads did it so we had to cut the passenger cut.

Maybe on quad and crew cabs, but I looked at my stock springs before I put them back in and they're the same length and part number...
 
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Milt IV

Milt IV

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Maybe on quad and crew cabs, but I looked at my stock springs before I put them back in and they're the same length and part number...

I don't remember the stocks being different lengths when I took them off, but I didn't pay that much attention. I did have them laying side by side on the ground before I put them in the attic so feel like I would have noticed that.

I know the ground force were the same height, were not marked drivers side or passenger side, and are the same part #.
 

CMil527

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I just went outside and took these pics. It almost looks level but you can see that there is still about 1/2" rake. It looks the same on the passenger side now too since I re-seated the spring over the weekend.

20151116_150117_zpsawngzacz.jpg
20151116_150100_zpsfzb5og0w.jpg
Looks great! :favorites13:
 

SilverSurfer15

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Have you owned bagged trucks before? Fixes some of those problems, adds more lol.

But I bet if you had shockwaves and sleeves on the rear it would probably ride pretty good? Ive never actually driven/ridden a truck with what I would consider a "quality" job so I'm curious.
 
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Milt IV

Milt IV

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Have you owned bagged trucks before? Fixes some of those problems, adds more lol.

But I bet if you had shockwaves and sleeves on the rear it would probably ride pretty good? Ive never actually driven/ridden a truck with what I would consider a "quality" job so I'm curious.

technology has come a long way over the years when it come's to air ride. It is very possible to make a comfortable, reliable, "trouble free" system now days. It's all about the suspension geometry and the components used. Little Shop built a 2013 RAM 1500 with 26" billets that lays frame and is a daily driver. Dude has put over 30K miles on it over the past two years and has had ZERO problems. Runs accuair with e-level and a full custom suspension setup front and rear. Everything was designed and fabbed in house by Little Shop. Go check it out on their instagram or search the owner @graphicdisorder


The shockwaves for the RAMs are for 2WD trucks, mine is 4WD. The mounting locations, mounts themselves, and lengths are totally different because the 2WD truck utilize a spring and shock setup and the 4WD utilize a strut.

If I bag I will be going with a full custom system anyhow, not air struts and sleeves. Retaining the 4WD is not really an option either.
 
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Dubstep Shep

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I would love to use a system that bolted onto the truck without having to cut anything off. If anyone made one, I'd probably have already bought it. I'm still mulling over making one myself though.
 

SilverSurfer15

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so ill take that as a no, you have not.

Im not saying you shouldnt do it, im just stating it WONT be perfect lol. Nothing ever is. The automated air systems are cool, but limit you on the 'hittin switches' aspect generally. It would be cool to hop in and have the autoride adjust and drive off, but ive seen problems with them too.

There is a reason that a lot of bagged guys go back to statics...
 
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Milt IV

Milt IV

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so ill take that as a no, you have not.

Im not saying you shouldnt do it, im just stating it WONT be perfect lol. Nothing ever is. The automated air systems are cool, but limit you on the 'hittin switches' aspect generally. It would be cool to hop in and have the autoride adjust and drive off, but ive seen problems with them too.

There is a reason that a lot of bagged guys go back to statics...

Actually I have, I just didn't feel the need to measure ***** with you. Since you insist....I had a F-150 that was bagged. It didn't lay frame but it slightly tucked a set of Harely Davidson 22's when aired out. It was a cheap setup though and I hated the way it rode. It was basically a huge static drop out back with a B.O.A setup, air struts up front, dual viair, 5gal, analog guages, and manual switches.

I also had an Audi Q7 with factory air ride that my wife put 40K miles on, rode like a complete dream, and never had a single problem with.

Are bags "perfect"? Maybe not, but as you stated, nothing is. I have snapped Belltech lowering struts at the mount before and had shocks fail within a few hundred miles too. It's all relative. Fact of the matter is you can build a reliable and comfortable air ride system with enough knowledge and money and that's exactly what I intend to do should I decide to bag another vehicle. I have no desire to hit switches anymore. I'm a grown ass man with two kids. I'd love to be able to layout when parked, have 3 preset ride heights, and always be level without having to worry about how much PSI is each corner. That's why I will use e-level on my next build.
 

SilverSurfer15

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wasnt a **** measuring contest, just a simple question. Good luck with your progress.
 

charonblk07

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Maybe on quad and crew cabs, but I looked at my stock springs before I put them back in and they're the same length and part number...



No difference in height on the stock quad cab springs either. The BT, GF, and McGs springs I've had roll through my garage have all been the same height as well so I really don't know where people are getting the idea the springs are different from side to side.
 

Dubstep Shep

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No difference in height on the stock quad cab springs either. The BT, GF, and McGs springs I've had roll through my garage have all been the same height as well so I really don't know where people are getting the idea the springs are different from side to side.

They are on the older trucks, like Gen 3. Or at least the Moog replacement springs are.
 

VB712

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I know this is an old thread. But I’m looking to lower my 4wd. Any new updates?
 
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