Dash lights and backlight for instrument LED screen wont go out

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Hanover Fiste

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I couldn't find the answer anywhere in the owners manual, so I'll ask here.

Once the truck has been locked, how long does it normally take for the dash lights to go out? In mine, the center cluster stays on for about 17 seconds, then the dash lights go out at 33 seconds--is this normal?
 

Hootbro

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I couldn't find the answer anywhere in the owners manual, so I'll ask here.

Once the truck has been locked, how long does it normally take for the dash lights to go out? In mine, the center cluster stays on for about 17 seconds, then the dash lights go out at 33 seconds--is this normal?

I have never timed mine exactly but I would say it is normal.
 

Brian Schoeffner

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Hi all,

Newbie here. Started running into an intermittent problem about 2 weeks ago. on my 2013 Longhorn. I had the truck sitting in the garage all weekend and noticed one day when I was taking my dogs out that the instrument cluster lights, the push button ignition "off light", and backlight for the instrument cluster LED screen were still on. Couldn't figure it out and pulled the battery. Once I reconnected the battery all was well for a few days. It happened again on Monday and actually drained the battery. I took it to the shop, however, once I pulled into the shop and turned off the truck, the lights acted like normal and shut off a few seconds after I turned off the truck. The techs have not heard of any issues like this and were not able to get the problem to replicate. Last night the issue arose again. I drove to work with the intent of going to the shop during lunch but once I got to work the and lights worked normally so I didn't go to the shop. Yet again, I am now home and the lights will not go out. I am having to pull the #49 10 amp fuse in order to not drain the battery, but that only extinguishes the instrument cluster, not the ignition "off" light on the pushbutton start. I do not want to pull the battery because that for sure resets whatever is wrong and I want to try and maintain whatever the issue is so that the shop can actually witness it (thats if I can get the problem to stay until I get to the shop). It seems like an intermittent problem. I am not sure if a wire is lose somewhere to the intelligent battery sensor or not, but this is getting annoying. And before the obvious is stated, no I do not have my dimmer turned all the way up so as that my lights are staying on. Anyone have thoughts of what could be going on? Thanks everyone!

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Hey man I was having the same issues with my 2015 Ram 1500. I’m not sure if you’re going to have the same luck I had, however I had a Bluetooth programmer connected to my obd2 and once I removed it the problem instantly went away. Hope this helps
 

VanLaar

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I had recently purchased a used 2015 RAM 2500 Laramie truck privately and shortly after taking possession of the truck, I too discovered that I had the same problem with the instrument cluster lights remaining on after turning the ignition key to OFF position. I read up on this problem on this forum. I’ve also viewed other forum sites, performed many google searches, etc.

In my situation, if I was to open the door, and then close the door, the instrument cluster lights would stay on for about 12 seconds and then go out.

However, if I was to get into my truck, turn the ignition to the RUN position, and then back to the OFF position, and then get out of the truck, my instrument cluster lights would remain on for about 10-12 minutes. It didn’t matter if the engine was started or not. All I needed to do was to have the key in the RUN position for this repeatable event to repeat itself.

I spent many hours doing homework and research on the internet. I estimate that I spent about 15-20 hours doing my own research and trouble shooting.

I used an ODB reader to capture the diagnostic logs. This didn’t help me much as I had a couple of pages of error messages.

I then started to check out all the normal connections and what have you. I checked for moisture in the connections and having good connections, no bent pins, etc. I pulled the wiring harness off of the HVAC control module. No luck.

I then started to work in the fuse box. I estimate that I pulled about 30 different fuses. My hope was to find the event that was keeping the Body Control Module energized for the 12-12 minutes.

In pulling the fuses, I was able to isolate the problem to the body control module. It was at this point, I gave up and took it to the local dealership for trouble shooting\repair.

I took it to the local dealership and I specifically asked to speak with the shop foreman. I explained to him what trouble shooting I had already completed. I gave him a detailed summary of all the trouble shooting tasks that I completed up to that point.

In this package, I also included a copy of all the relevant articles that I’ve read in this forum. I basically cut and pasted all the relevant articles into a word document.

I also suggested that since this would be a difficult issue to resolve, I asked if he had any talented electrical diagnostic technicians on his crew. This was no job for an apprentice. To my surprise, he stated that he would look into this issue.

The shop foreman did all the basic checks. He checked to ensure that all modules had the correct software versions. He then continued on with his checks and tests. After being in the shop for a day or so, the shop foreman suggested that we replace the body control module. I agreed. They replaced the body control module and this did NOT fix the problem. Ouch! Once the new body control module was installed, I was then charged for the module.

The shop foreman had opened a ticket with the FCA technical support team and they were both stumped on how to proceed.

So, they decided to check every wire going in and out of the body control module.

By doing this, they were hoping to identify the specific wire that was telling the body control module to “stay on”.

Eventually, they found the root cause. The signal was coming from the “Air Suspension Control Module”. They suggested that we order in a new module to the tune of $1200. Ouch! I agreed as I really wanted to get this issue resolved.

The next day, the shop foreman was speaking with the FCA technician, and they thought of an idea. They verified that the software code on the ASCM was at the current version. The idea was to simply re-apply the software back onto the ASCM module as this task only takes about 5 minutes. They didn’t have anything to lose.

They re-applied the same current software back on to the ASCM module, and to their surprise, this WORKED. The problem was corrected and now everything works like it should.

At the end of the four day shop stay, I had to pay for the body control module (which they did not use, but did install temporarily), and for the shop labor. I was not charged for the new ASCM module as they did not install it. At the end of the day, they gave me a break on the labor costs and I thought the final bill was fair.

My hope is that this message may be of use to others out there. Especially those of you who have the rear air bags and air suspension control module.

Best of luck to all of you out there that have this problem.
 

oldmitch

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I didn't read all 15 pages, but did anyone think to check for busted occupancy sensors? I'm assuming the truck has them. I'm always in my truck, tinkering. The dash and radio regularly light up when I move around in the cab, as though it's noting my presence and getting ready to start up.
 

Tach_tech

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I didn't read all 15 pages, but did anyone think to check for busted occupancy sensors? I'm assuming the truck has them. I'm always in my truck, tinkering. The dash and radio regularly light up when I move around in the cab, as though it's noting my presence and getting ready to start up.

There are no occupancy sensors per se. Only way for the truck to know you are in there is by using key fob buttons, sensing a key fob inside if you have passive entry, pressing the brake/start button.
 

oldmitch

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There are no occupancy sensors per se. Only way for the truck to know you are in there is by using key fob buttons, sensing a key fob inside if you have passive entry, pressing the brake/start button.

Huh, interesting. I assumed they did. I was thinking about the systems that know if there's a passenger, for airbag deployment. Or if a window is broken, for the alarm to go off. Oh well.
 

oneurt

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Hi, all

So I noticed the other night my dash lights were on at night, and the truck had been sitting for a few days. noticed they would come on them go off, but for how long this was going on I have no idea. but I did come to find out my truck battery was dead today at the coldest time of year, which might help but it shouldn't have died this bad.

I'm wondering if anyone has gotten resolution to this? And if they did was it all covered under warranty?

Cheers.
 

cajunrider

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My 2014 was doing the same. Turns out it was the passive door lock switch on the driver's side door. The switch was "making" resulting in the instrument cluster to light up. It took 3 visits to the dealer but they finally figured it out.
 

Swashbuckler

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I have recently acquired my 2015 ram 1500 Laramie And I am experiencing the same thing. Cluster lights are staying on and draining battery. Woke up 2 days in a row with dead battery. Started turning off features in settings and trying it each time to see if lights would go out. After turning off the passive lock system, everything would shut off normally. If I turned it back on in settings, the cluster would stay on again. It would stay on for about 30 seconds and then the LCD would go off for about 5 seconds and the backlight would come on again and repeat. The cluster lights would stay on continuously. After turning off the passive lock system in settings, everything is normal. I am curious if anyone else has tried this to see if it is just my trucks problem or if this might help someone else. Thank you all for all of the input you have contributed to this thread. It has been very helpful.
 

Tinker2409

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I am a tech for a dealership here in Texas and a 2022 rebel trx came in with the same sort of issue. After reading through the 16 pages of different various version of this issue I finally pinpointed it down to the hood latch not making a good enough ground cleaned the back surface of the latch and the bolt holes and voila have left it for two days. No more on and off on the cluster the shifter light turns of when it's supposed to. So far so good I'll update if it stays gone or returns.
 

dc327

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Hello all. 16 1500 5.7 laramie longhorn.

Having the same issue that some of you are having with the dash gauges backlight staying on after the truck is locked, and the remote is away. Ive done some homework on this, (thanks to you guys, and others like you), who have shared their fixes, problems etc. I pulled the F60 fuse, it did not help. It did take power from the hood light tho. The 3rd brakelight is operating. I replaced the bulb a month back and it was dry as a bone back there. I checked the connection to the hood light and it was dry and clean. I checked the I230 connector also, and it was perfectly dry with no rust or corrosion.

My next move was to lock myself in the truck and see if the HVAC module closed the vents. It did not. Which makes me believe that module is not functioning properly, letting the truck go to sleep. Question... is there a way to check the module with a meter? Before I go and buy another one I figured I'd ask. Also, does the truck need to be flashed after install?

Hope the local parts dept even has one... broke my window switch and one had to come from Hawaii via dealer transfer... Im on the east coast!

Thanks all for your help. This forum has been a huge help for many different issues.
 

MOTO849

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So I was having the same issue on my 2013 1500 Sport right after I replaced my battery (Tried unplugging battery, trickle charging new battery, messing with fuses, updated the software via USB to the latest). Resorted to calling the dealer (you know I'm frustrated if that happens, yeah we can get you an appt. in a month, never heard of the issue).

Come to find out it was my Key Fob (only provided 1 when I purchased used) - a couple of months ago my remote start button quit working on my fob... didn't think anything of it - but recently some weird stuff was happening electronically, hazards flashing randomly, ride height lowering randomly). Blamed it on water from our recent hurricane, and was going to troubleshoot this weekend for corrosion etc. Well I took my fob apart to try a new battery; and the small discs in there that click the remote start and ride height were loose in there. I removed them completely and scraped off any glue debris, and now my dash light goes off!!! (so far). I'm going to try to glue the discs back on the buttons to see if I can get my remote start back. If that doesn't work, I'll get a new fob. My guess is those discs were messing up the board somehow being loose in there. Hope this helps anybody (yes I'm a noob, was always on Jeep forums until I sold my 2000 TJ and got the RAM - way less electronics in the TJ lol). Have a good weekend all!
 

RamCanada67

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Brand new 2022 1500. 2 weeks old. Ditto. Happened last week. Cluster stayed on overnight. Totally dead battery in the morning. And now again tonight, the cluster is not going off so I'll likely have a dead battery in the morning. Less than 2 weeks old. I'm bringing it back in the morning. Will they do an exchange? Refund? Or am I sol
 
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