Dealer Service - Spark Plugs $850

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ricci427

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So I go to my dealer for oil changes only, I bought the car used so they give a deal on oil change on a Hemi for only $20.

Many times I go in they ask about other things, the guys knows me so he usually knows my answer, cabin air filter the want $70, I say not thanks its $17 on Amazon and a two minute install, Engine Air Filter, $80+ said no thanks it has a K&N filter, transmission oil once for $370+ which inst even listed as a maintenance item in the book and I told him so.

Today it was spark plugs, initially quoted $675, then said oh no you have a Hemi that's $850 for changing spark plugs. Politely said no, and will likely do it myself...

Do you really need them switched out at 100,000 miles, is it that hard to do, I watched some you tube videos this morning, certainly didn't seem like an $800 dollar job, the plugs look like they are about $100 so how many hours does their computer tell them it takes to change all 16?
 

MickeyGreene

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For some reason, the prices for tune ups on the hemi are all over the place. I’ve heard everything from $500-$900. It is recommended to do at 100k, and if they haven’t been done before, definitely something I’d do. If you do a search, you can probably find some of the posts that show the condition of their plugs pulled out at 100k, not pretty.

Anyway, I’d call some other dealers in the area. My dad had this quoted on his hemi over the last couple of weeks, and one of the local dealers said between $500-$600 which seems much more reasonable.
 

GIJoe2010

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Get the plugs from RockAuto about $110 for all 16. Then get the a swivel socket, I can’t remember the name but got it off Amazon for about $10, this makes it ridiculously easy to get the cylinders by the firewall and brake booster. It was about a 2 hour job doing it by myself.
 

GIJoe2010

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P.S. as for the transmission service on the 8 speed ZF trans, about $400 sounds right.

I’d definitely pay to have them do the trans as it costs like $5k to replace, not including labor, and if they screw it up it’s on them and not you to replace it.
 

EdGs

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P.S. as for the transmission service on the 8 speed ZF trans, about $400 sounds right.

I’d definitely pay to have them do the trans as it costs like $5k to replace, not including labor, and if they screw it up it’s on them and not you to replace it.

$400 is about right for the parts on trans service for 8 speed. I would wager that the dealer will be nearly double that with labor. I hope I am wrong.

I am guessing at price because I couldn't get my dealer to call me back to give me a price (twice).
That's what motivated me to do it myself.

I was quoted (by the dealer) $259 for the OE pan/filter and $29 per quart for OE fluid (capacity is 8.7 for complete drain and fill, mine took about 5-1/4 when I did myself). Just to buy the parts myself.

OE pan was $170, OE fluid $21/qt. @ RockAuto. Bought 7 qts. Used about 5-1/4 ish.

Here's my trans fluid after 108k miles. With no towing or heavy hauling.

OE new fluid on the left.

20210101_173936.jpg

That said, the trans is something that should be taken care of.
 
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GIJoe2010

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Next thing up for me is definitely the trans service, here at 94k miles and I think it’s about close enough
 

BadHemi2014

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Boy I should be rich with all the money I've saved doing stuff myself.

I have a 2014, changed the plugs at about 110K with the NGK 92145 from RockAuto. Been 15K since then no probs.
The Gearwrench swivel socket is the cat's meow, bees knees etc. Makes it almost easy. I got mine from Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0014ZVSVK?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

A somewhat uncomfortable job but not difficult. If you've changed plugs on other vehicles you can do this one. Just time consuming with 16 plugs to change! Be careful with the connectors for the coils they can be a pain to pull off of the coil. No need to replace coils.
 

EdGs

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Even the trans service is not that bad, it just has to be done a certain way.

Plenty of threads on this forum about it.

I did it, and it wasn't cheap, but saved a bunch.

A necessary evil.

BTW, ZF recommends a fluid/filter change at 60 - 80k miles I believe, sooner if hard use.
 

JJEH

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Changed my own spark plugs on our 2013 Durango... it was out of warranty though. As long as it's within factory warranty I'll go to the dealership so Stellantis can't complain when something happens. If you DIY the "right" socket is a MUST HAVE!!!

Got everything through Summit Racing.... love this shop!

20180320_160623.jpg


20180320_160632.jpg

It's absolutely necessary.

Transmission is necessary too, just find a shop you can trust.

Factory dealerships in OK have messed up both, my 2003 Ram as well as the Durango.... both slipped after the oil change and it never got any better.

And, one thing I need to make sure we all understand; it's not the product I have issues with, it's the so called dealerships. I have never had so many complaints...

In this aspect Stellantis is way behind, all their dealerships should be audited! Well, to be fair, I can only speak about OK and TX.
 

GTyankee

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You can buy an aftermarket transmission pan with a changeable oil filter & i think it has a Drain Plug
People that Tow a lot, change fluid more often, so they buy the after market pan.

The OEM trans pan has a filter that can not be removed & replaced

........................................................

If you don't want to pay dealer prices for a spark plug change & you don't want to tackle the job yourself.

Buy the plugs online & take the vehicle to a auto shop with a good reputation & get the job done. I would use a shop that has the
ASE Blue Seal proudly displayed

When ever you have service work done keep the receipts, mark down the Date & Mileage
Printer ink tends to fade
 
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GIJoe2010

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GTyankee

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You can also buy magnetic extensions of all lengths.
It is one of the handiest tools ever, it holds bolt heads & almost anything metalic that you would use a socket on
 

EdGs

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You can buy an aftermarket transmission pan with a changeable oil filter & i think it has a Drain Plug
People that Tow a lot, change fluid more often, so they buy the after market pan.

The OEM trans pan has a filter that can not be removed & replaced

........................................................

If you don't want to pay dealer prices for a spark plug change & you don't want to tackle the job yourself.

Buy the plugs online & take the vehicle to a auto shop with a good reputation & get the job done. I would use a shop that has the
ASE Blue Seal proudly displayed

When ever you have service work done keep the receipts, mark down the Date & Mileage
Printer ink tends to fade

Excellent advice.

Lots of cheaper aftermarket pans with removable filters, and even aluminun ones too.

Quite a few people even use other brands of fluid that are cheaper and have better properties than OE, with excellent results.

As for me, I chose OE on mine. Next time, who knows?

Plenty of options. May your services go smoothly, whatever you decide to do.
 

Captain Bart

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I am at 108 K, and ready to change the spark plugs. Have both the plugs, and swivel. I am looking for some guidance as to the various ways to get at the plugs. I have read guys remove the inner wheel well liners? Better access....seems like an extra step, your thoughts?

I have also read guys breaking the spark plug off in the head? Wow, thats really reefing on the rachet? I wonder, is it okay to simply pop the coils off, and give each plug a shot of PB, Kroil, or WD-40? Let them sit for 1/2 hr., and than remove? Thats old school and has always been SOP for plugs on anything. Your thoughts?

I realize there is a separate thread, but I'll pick your brain while I'm here. Previously used Mobil 1 Syt. 5W-20. Considering the Red Line 5W-20 OR 30........IS RL really a better solution for lifter tick?
 

FlaglerMegacab4x4

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I used to use a socket like this

https://www.tooltopia.com/CTA-Tools-CTA2380

when I was changing Hemi plugs. Unlike the extensions there’s no wobble and you just drop the socket right into the head and it comes about flush or just above the valve cover. Makes it much easier to remove the back cylinder plugs that are hiding under the cowl. Forgive me because I never had a gen 4 Hemi only gen 3 but we used to have to replace coils at around 50-70k on them as they’d start to lose their effectiveness and you’d get very slight miss fires not enough for a CEL but definitely degrading mpg and power.
 

PoMansRam

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I am at 108 K, and ready to change the spark plugs. Have both the plugs, and swivel. I am looking for some guidance as to the various ways to get at the plugs. I have read guys remove the inner wheel well liners? Better access....seems like an extra step, your thoughts?

I haven't changed plugs on a 16 plug hemi, but I don't see how removing the fender liners will help given the plugs are accessed from the top of the valve covers as opposed to around the exhaust manifolds like non-hemi, cam-in-block V8s. Judging from my 2019 classic, reaching that far into the engine bay seems like the hardest part. One of those lay-over creepers would be awesome, or pull the front wheels to drop the font end lower to the ground.

$850 for this job is absolute insanity. It's 8 coil-overs that you can lay your hand on each one for cryin' out loud.
 

JS4024

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I have never seen a spark plug last to 100k miles..... but... new technology and such.... I change mine at 60,000 miles. Not rediculously hard to do....... and not worth even 200.00 for the dealer to do!
 

tron67j

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One thing I will say is that trucks in the snow belt could potentially have a harder time. I have not done it myself but had friends who tried to get spark plugs out and really buggar it up. It's just one of those things that I pay to have done, not at a ram dealer but at my own mechanic. With labor and plugs I think he charged me about 200 bucks. Sometimes, just not worth potential headaches at least in my book. Good luck.
 

EdGs

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I had access to a topside creeper when I did my '15 at 106k miles. Easy peasy, but I had a sore abdomen from laying my fat ass on it doing the job, lol.

After I pulled the coil packs off, I gave each plugwell a blast of compressed air to clear any shizzle that may have settled in there.

The GearWrench 80546 tool was a blessing for removing/reinstalling the plugs. No issues installing the new ones.

A dab of dielectric grease wiped around the base of the ceramic insulator before installing the new plugs and a small dab on the end of the plug boots before reinstalling the coil packs.

Other than that, just making sure that the plugs thread in easily by hand and torquing to spec, and carefully snugging down the coil packs.
 
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Captain Bart

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I'm confident following this reply. Plugs go in tomorrow night....Red Line 5W-30 oil is the same cost as Mobil 1. I'm trying it out. Thanks for your replies. CBB
 
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