Do I need load resistors to add an amp ?? 2019 classic

[Skyjockey]

I was looking into a small amp for my 2019 Warlock with the basic 8.4" 6 speaker set-up I have no desire (first time ever) to replace the head unit. Looking at the JL Audio RD or JD 400/4 amp. Planning to cut into the factory speaker wires and run them into the amps high level input then back to the aftermarket speakers.

Question is seeing they seem to have MAP pricing so I went to Crutchfields and they showed the image below. Claim to make the stock radio work I have to put these load resistors inline? Is this to make the radio think it's still feeding the speakers vs sensing an open? I've never heard this one before and they are the only place I've shopped that has mentioned this???

 

[Snarl]

Those resistors from Crutchfield are for the radio outputs. If the radio doesn't sense a load, it will shut down thinking there is a bad speaker.
If you are only changing dash speakers with an aftermarket 4 ohm unit, they need a 4 ohm 10 watt resistor inline with the positive terminal or they will be too loud. Factory dash speakers are 8 ohms with 2 ohms in the front doors.
2 different issues that both use resistors to remedy.

 

[Skyjockey]

Those resistors from Crutchfield are for the radio outputs. If the radio doesn't sense a load, it will shut down thinking there is a bad speaker.
If you are only changing dash speakers with an aftermarket 4 ohm unit, they need a 4 ohm 10 watt resistor inline with the positive terminal or they will be too loud. Factory dash speakers are 8 ohms with 2 ohms in the front doors.
2 different issues that both use resistors to remedy.

That's what I was thinking but the way Crutchfield words it??
My plan is to cut the speaker harness at each door, run radio speaker out to the high input of the amp then back to the speakers. So I'm basically putting an amp inline between the speaker and radio head unit.
Maybe the input to the amp isn't high enough a load so these are needed?
They give you 5 resistors? Unless they think I have a separate sub line?

 

[LeeD]

Contact Netaudio. They might just have a wiring harness with resistors that will make the job much easier.

 

[Skyjockey]

Contact Netaudio. They might just have a wiring harness with resistors that will make the job much easier.

Looks like I might need to call them. Too many options and not enough info? They have harnesses with and without resistors? But I like the idea of not cutting wires so may be worth the cost. Thank you

 

[Skyjockey]

Still a world filled with confusion.
PAC and Crutchfield show hand soldered 10w 46 ohm resistors parallel on the speaker line into the amp
Audio Control shows their module that is 20 ohms and that the 60 ohms is for older cars?
Really not wanting to buy one of everything to see which might work lol

 

[Atcer2018]

Still a world filled with confusion.
PAC and Crutchfield show hand soldered 10w 46 ohm resistors parallel on the speaker line into the amp
Audio Control shows their module that is 20 ohms and that the 60 ohms is for older cars?
Really not wanting to buy one of everything to see which might work lol

Depends on the aftermarket amp you use. There are two issues at play here. The amp issue you spoke of is some aftermarket amps that allow high level inputs as in the speaker output from the head unit don’t show the head unit a load on the output line. This causes the head unit to “think” the speaker is not working so the head unit shuts down the channel. Some aftermarket amps like the Kicker key amps have a built in load so the head unit sees a working speaker or in this case a useable load and outputs power which in turn the aftermarket amp uses as a pre amp signal. I used the Kicker key amp and both Crutchfield and NetAudio told me I needed load resistors. Kicker said I didn’t and they were correct. I have no load resistors between the head unit output and the aftermarket amp high level input. If you select an aftermarket amp that corrects for this you don’t need them.

The resistors on the dash speakers are a different issue. As Snarl correctly stated in an earlier post the original speakers in the 6 speaker set up use 8 ohm dash speakers and 2 ohm front door speakers run on the same output channel from the factory head unit. When you change the dash speakers with aftermarket’s that are 4 ohm they will sound louder than the door speaker. Some people like myself prefer this and some do not. I don’t find it overpowering. Since you are going with and aftermarket amp you can run separate wiring for the dash speakers and wire them as individual channels instead of two speakers on one channel. The trick is selecting an amp that allows bi-amping so you can use the new aftermarket 4 channel amp to power the four front speakers and the head unit to power the rears.