Don't know what to do about diff fluid and transfer case fluid change

[Jrod]

Setups like that are only on AWD cars where there is a transaxle. Typically the engine is mounted sideways. You can kind of see the transfer case and front driveshaft leading to the front diff below on this chassis pic. Solid axle only refers to a longer/wider tube with universal joints going to the knuckles vs cv joints like on the 1500. How the power gets to the center section is the same. On a solid axle, the tube is a stressed member like in the rear.

Well I’ll be damned. Thanks!

So it has all three. Would it be more accurate to call the front a gear box, or would it still be categorized as a front dif? Just for my own jee wiz databank.

 

[QwikKota]

Well I’ll be damned. Thanks!

So it has all three. Would it be more accurate to call the front a gear box, or would it still be categorized as a front dif? Just for my own jee wiz databank.

Just a diff, it does not change gears. Axle would also not be incorrect.

 

[kurek]

Well I’ll be damned. Thanks!

So it has all three. Would it be more accurate to call the front a gear box, or would it still be categorized as a front dif? Just for my own jee wiz databank.

Yes, front differential is still a "true" differential gearset (meaning the driveshaft delivers force to the pinion and that force is divided up between the left and right CV shafts based on differential feedback from the road. Equal revolutions in a straight line, more revolutions for the outside wheel while cornering...) - like Qwikkota said the front axle assembly is still an axle even if not a beam axle.

Most vehicles which have a longitudinal engine with AWD or 4WD will be configured like this. The engine has an oil sump, the transmission has its oil, the transfer case has its oil, the front differential has its oil and the rear differential has its oil so that's 5 distinct lubricant reservoirs which call for 5 distinct lubricants in some cases. 5W20 for the engine, 68218925AB for the 8HP transmissiOn, 68089195AA for the auto-4WD case, 75W85 in the front diff and 75W140 w/ friction modifier in the rear diff. (Specific fluids dependent on which engine, transmission, etc options are in the vehicle)


Subaru's a notable exception here as most of them have a longitudinal engine with a transaxle behind it.

 

[Jrod]

Yes, front differential is still a "true" differential gearset (meaning the driveshaft delivers force to the pinion and that force is divided up between the left and right CV shafts based on differential feedback from the road. Equal revolutions in a straight line, more revolutions for the outside wheel while cornering...) - like Qwikkota said the front axle assembly is still an axle even if not a beam axle.

Most vehicles which have a longitudinal engine with AWD or 4WD will be configured like this. The engine has an oil sump, the transmission has its oil, the transfer case has its oil, the front differential has its oil and the rear differential has its oil so that's 5 distinct lubricant reservoirs which call for 5 distinct lubricants in some cases. 5W20 for the engine, 68218925AB for the 8HP transmissiOn, 68089195AA for the auto-4WD case, 75W85 in the front diff and 75W140 w/ friction modifier in the rear diff. (Specific fluids dependent on which engine, transmission, etc options are in the vehicle)


Subaru's a notable exception here as most of them have a longitudinal engine with a transaxle behind it.

Thanks,

Guess I’m going to be looking up how to vids for the front dif and transfer case. Some things I’ve just got to do myself.

 

[cory733]

Anyone know how I can tell which transfer case I have? BW 44-44 or BW 44-45?

I have the build sheet, it just says "Electric Shift-On-The-Fly Transfer Case"

Edit: My manual says to use BW-44-44 so that must be the one.

 

[crash68]

Anyone know how I can tell which transfer case I have? BW 44-44 or BW 44-45?

If you have the "Auto 4x4" button, you haVe the BW44-44, the BW 44-45 does not.
The manual states to use the expensive BW44-44 fluid in both transfer cases. That's are quite a few people on here that have run an ATF fluid from Redline in the BW44-45 as it doesn't have the clutches inside.

 

[cory733]

Thanks everyone for the advice in here. Just did my rear differential. Took about 15 mins. Extremely simple. Used Valvoline Synpower 75w-140.

Edit: Does anyone know how much fluid the BW 44-44 takes?

Still a bit confused about the fluid for my transfer case so I'm probably just going to buy the Mopar fluid.

 

[Livinalittle]

Changing the rear diff fluid is so easy, just buy a 14mm hex socket and do it yourself. I do this annually because of my LSD and use valvoline synthetic that includes the friction modifier. I wouldnt' worry about the front diff. Odds are the fluid is in like new condition since there are no clutch packs. As for the transfer case, replacing that fluid is a great call. I'd give that a shot yourself as well....

Back when I was a mechanic the guys told me it's a good idea to change both diff's after they've had enough break in time. Take it for what it is but I thought it made sense.

I did my rear diff with the cover off after 20 000km's with Royal purple 75W140 which includes the additive and i did my front diff (drain and fill) at 100 000km's with RP 75W90. I figure that will keep any metal shavings out of the axle and pinion seals. Probably wont touch either again for quite some time.

For the transfer case, I'm just going to play it safe and go with the MOPAR brand. But i'll drain and fill it myself in the spring.

 

[Jrod]

Edit: Does anyone know how much fluid the BW 44-44 takes?

Still a bit confused about the fluid for my transfer case so I'm probably just going to buy the Mopar fluid.

I just went through this. BW44-44 can only take BW44-44 fluid. I could only find it at the dealer. I searched online, it pops up everywhere, but it's not the same part number.. Mine was even more specific because it's a 2016.. If we had BW44-45 we could use standard ATF off the shelf. I shopped three different dealers. Price per quart ranged from $31-$73. I grabbed two quarts for $62.

Here was my saga: https://www.ramforum.com/threads/fluids-wow-dealer-mark-up’s.152050/

 

[craigsez]

If it says "recommend" it is not required, IMO. I do not bother with cover removal if there is a low point drain plug. There is no real need to remove the cover unless you suspect something is wrong. Drain plugs on diffs are awesome. I used Mobil 1 gear lube and added some Amsoil friction modifier I had on hand. No issues with my truck with anti-spin over the last 20k miles or so. If you can't find the exact weight lube you can go up or down slightly. 75W-85 can be hard to find whereas 75W-90 is easy to find. If you are truly paranoid about warranty you want to stick with the proper weight and have it on a receipt. I would avoid any quick lube places. The rear diff is very easy to do yourself.

When you start to worry about changing the tranny fluid, make sure to use Mopar fluid for the 8 speed while under warranty. There are many cheaper alternatives once you are out of warranty though. The general consensus is to listen to the company who invented the tranny who says to do a pan drain around 60k miles rather than listen to Ram that states it being a lifetime fluid. It's not cheap as it requires a replacement pan with integrated filter and around 6 to 7 quarts of $30/qt fluid.

Based on some rough #'s ya all posted its a $500 bill to change all the driveline fluids..
Im only puttering around in my 16 sport,still in the 25000 mi range..

 

[QwikKota]

Based on some rough #'s ya all posted its a $500 bill to change all the driveline fluids..
Im only puttering around in my 16 sport,still in the 25000 mi range..

I think some have gotten bills for $800 just for the tranny. The pan alone is $200 or so. I wouldn't worry about it yet either.

 

[craigsez]

Damn!!

 

[Jrod]

Based on some rough #'s ya all posted its a $500 bill to change all the driveline fluids..
Im only puttering around in my 16 sport,still in the 25000 mi range..

My dealer wanted to charge over $600.. You can DYI for approximately $200 if you have the BW44-44 TC. If you have the BW44-45 it will cost you less since it can use (cheaper) standard ATF off the shelf.

If your 2016 owners manual reads like mine, and your not towing or using 4x4 a lot, it says to check fluids every 30k miles and replace every 60k miles. So you’ve got time. Double check your owners manual.

 

[craigsez]

Yeah i know but im just think of getting all the initial wear **** outta there..

I changed my oil 100 mi after i bought my trk back in 16...Again a few thou later..Now it takes me for ever to put any milage on it so its when i feel like doin it around 4000-5000 mi...Im not one to do a cold start drive a half mi and shut down type...If i need a quick drop out to store for milk n bread n such i got for a lil longer so engine is well warmed and burns off any condensation build up from last drive...Short drives on and off stuff tends to build up unburned fuel n condensations and over the engine life can cause corrosions in such down in bottom end..So a 10-20 min drive have a few min of fun then go do the short errand and home..
Being a long haul trucker my ram sits more than it goes so its still fun just to go out for a spin..Hence the low mi on a p/u i bought new in jan of 16..

 

[Jrod]

Yeah i know but im just think of getting all the initial wear **** outta there..

I changed my oil 100 mi after i bought my trk back in 16...Again a few thou later..Now it takes me for ever to put any milage on it so its when i feel like doin it around 4000-5000 mi...Im not one to do a cold start drive a half mi and shut down type...If i need a quick drop out to store for milk n bread n such i got for a lil longer so engine is well warmed and burns off any condensation build up from last drive...Short drives on and off stuff tends to build up unburned fuel n condensations and over the engine life can cause corrosions in such down in bottom end..So a 10-20 min drive have a few min of fun then go do the short errand and home..
Being a long haul trucker my ram sits more than it goes so its still fun just to go out for a spin..Hence the low mi on a p/u i bought new in jan of 16..

Gotcha, I was surprised how clean my front dif and TC were after 56k miles. Mind you, I don’t off-road with this truck. I put her in 4x4 auto in heavy rain, sleet, and snow. I’m sure oil breaks down over time anyway, so I’ll swap everything out every 60k’ish regardless.

 

[craigsez]

Gotcha, I was surprised how clean my front dif and TC were after 56k miles. Mind you, I don’t off-road with this truck. I put her in 4x4 auto in heavy rain, sleet, and snow. I’m sure oil breaks down over time anyway, so I’ll swap everything out every 60k’ish regardless.

The oil itself doesnt break down...Think about it,how long was it in the ground before we all got at it....Its the additive package of the oil that get over come by contaminets..

 

[MRFREEZE57]

I picked up 2 qt of red line C+ for less than 1 quart of the mopar, am going to try in in the 44-44. just can't see that there is that much difference and red line site says is for transfer case. also amsoil says their signature series atf will work in the 44-44.

 

[HornDog]

Just got my diff and transfer case fluids changed yesterday at the local dealer I always go to. Truck is a 2015 1500 with hemi and 63k on it. The kit alone was almost 200 bucks, total bill came out to just shy of 350. Not a bad price from what I read here and around the internet. When I went in I asked for any discounts they could offer and they gave the standard 10%. The service guy made sure to tell me when paying that I was misquoted in the beginning, that the job is normally 400 bucks... Guess I lucked out.

For me having services on file with the dealer is worth the peace of mind as I will eventually trade in for a 2500.

 

[kurek]

The oil itself doesnt break down...Think about it,how long was it in the ground before we all got at it....Its the additive package of the oil that get over come by contaminets..

There's no oxygen down there though.

 

[craigsez]

Dont matter....condensation(water)unburnt fuel n such....Still get contaminated..All the times over the life of a car/truck that it starts and idles for a long time,all those 2 mi trips to the store and back where its a cold start,runs a few minutes and shuts off..5 min later same run again...