DragLink Recall-File a complaint with NHTSA

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christopher moore

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Yea, this is sad that FCA and the Federal Govt, who are here to help us, think this is acceptable. They fail to mention that most dealerships do not maintain certified welders on site to cut weld then re-weld after front end alignment. So they have to send out to a body shop. And oh yea, guess who gets to pay for that!!!!!! Unbelievable RAM.
 

Scottsjeeprolet

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Ok so I just had my truck aligned at a shop my bro in-law works at. He said the drag link was welded and had a hell of a time getting the jam nutz loose due to the welds. But after the work was done he did not reweld the nutz.
What should I do? I can weld it myself, leave it as is (I did mark the nutz), or take it to a dealer to be properly fixed?
I getting ready for a 2400 mile trip in two weeks.
 

chrisbh17

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Ok so I just had my truck aligned at a shop my bro in-law works at. He said the drag link was welded and had a hell of a time getting the jam nutz loose due to the welds. But after the work was done he did not reweld the nutz.
What should I do? I can weld it myself, leave it as is (I did mark the nutz), or take it to a dealer to be properly fixed?
I getting ready for a 2400 mile trip in two weeks.

If it were my truck, I would mark everything where it is aligned correctly, back the nuts off then "install" some red loctite, and put the nuts back to where they were.

Red loctite is fairly impossible to budge without heat, so I would think it would hold the nuts in place at least for a while until (hopefully) FCA mans up and starts replacing drag links instead of using bubble gum (which is the nicest way I can describe some of the welds Ive seen)
 

Brian2081

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What alot of people are not realizing is the NUTS are not the problem. The problem is the adjuster sleeve between the nuts. The threads inside the sleeve are not done correctly, thus over time it allows the 2 rod ends to pull out of the sleeve.
So putting loctite on the nuts is absolutely useless.
At the present time I took .051 stainless steel safety wire, doubled it up to .102, wrapped it around one rod and behind the nut pulled it tight across to the other, wrapped around the other rod and pulled tight back to the first nut wrapped around the the first rod and twisted and pig tailed.
 

Fitz-0518

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^^^^^AS stated. Not all trucks have the bad part. The threads were not cut correctly on some of the assembly order. Pitch and spread are wrong. FCA/RAM no longer spot checks (QC) their parts from vendors.
 

Dr J Cumminz

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I might do the same, the dealership where I’m at welded mine without checking the steering wheel. Now I have a crooked steering wheel they won’t fix cause it’s “permanent”.
Mine was similar, but somehow the mfr marks were off and they just welded it. I got on the road and it Das drifting, I took it back and had them fix it. They had to unweld it and redo it. I'm sure the metal integrity is probably shot too.
 

Dr J Cumminz

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What alot of people are not realizing is the NUTS are not the problem. The problem is the adjuster sleeve between the nuts. The threads inside the sleeve are not done correctly, thus over time it allows the 2 rod ends to pull out of the sleeve.
So putting loctite on the nuts is absolutely useless.
At the present time I took .051 stainless steel safety wire, doubled it up to .102, wrapped it around one rod and behind the nut pulled it tight across to the other, wrapped around the other rod and pulled tight back to the first nut wrapped around the the first rod and twisted and pig tailed.
That would actually be a relatively good fix if they replaced the nuts with ones that accept safety wire. This would keep either side from backing off. We do this on aircraft, should be good for our trucks.
 

Brian2081

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OK, I just went and looked at that Synenergy draglink assy, and the only concern I have is fine tuning the adjustability. what I mean by that is, if you need a half a turn to center your steering wheel you cant do it because of the way the draglink tube is bent, if you attempt to do a half turn of the of the draglink you will put the rod ends into such a bind not to mention at half a turn the tube will smash into what ever is above it, no good. it is either a full turn or nothing, same goes for the rod ends. you cant do half turns and expect things to bolt in from the other direction, the truck and parts are not designed to do that. so for that reason I will be replacing the adjuster sleeve with one from Moog ($130) and I will have the fine tuning that FCA designed into the draglink, IE I can make 1/8 turn on up to full turns.

Hey Dr. J, I also happen to be an A&P here in DTW, hence the safety wire...lol
 

Maligator

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OK, I just went and looked at that Synenergy draglink assy, and the only concern I have is fine tuning the adjustability. what I mean by that is, if you need a half a turn to center your steering wheel you cant do it because of the way the draglink tube is bent, if you attempt to do a half turn of the of the draglink you will put the rod ends into such a bind not to mention at half a turn the tube will smash into what ever is above it, no good. it is either a full turn or nothing, same goes for the rod ends. you cant do half turns and expect things to bolt in from the other direction, the truck and parts are not designed to do that. so for that reason I will be replacing the adjuster sleeve with one from Moog ($130) and I will have the fine tuning that FCA designed into the draglink, IE I can make 1/8 turn on up to full turns.

Hey Dr. J, I also happen to be an A&P here in DTW, hence the safety wire...lol
The adjuster looks like it's the same design as on my updated drag link from mopar

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Maligator

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After the drag link is installed you loosen the adjuster sleeve clamp and spin the adjuster that I have marked with an arrow. This is the exact same way the updated Mopar link is.a8b8c991f7b63edab80003524962366d.png

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Brian2081

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I stand corrected, the pictures I seen on Synenergy's site apparently are not that good, as I was looking very closely and did not see this, hence my concern. But I am still going to replace my sleeve with a new one from MOOG ($130).
 

m25443

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You guys do know that you can fill out a form and get the cost of a Synergy drag link (or a new RAM part or other vendor) and the installation cost reimbursed by FCA, right. I had my check in hand within 8 calendar days from the time I sent in the form.
 

GsRAM

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You guys do know that you can fill out a form and get the cost of a Synergy drag link (or a new RAM part or other vendor) and the installation cost reimbursed by FCA, right. I had my check in hand within 8 calendar days from the time I sent in the form.


This is the issue. Bases on posts in this forum, it appears that FCA has been inconsistent in its approach and handling of this matter. I've gone to my dealer and FCA and requested to do just that and have been told no. That is a problem for FCA in my opinion.

What you allow for some you should allow for all and be consistent in your handling of this matter. Clearly we have several members who were reimbursed for the synergy drag link and the install cost, yet others have been told no.

That's not right.

To date, not a single person at FCA or my dealer can tell me why I should be forced to accept a repair that alters my truck from its original design and form. Though no fault of our own, FCA installed a defective drag link on our trucks. Its designed to be adjustable for a reason and the only proper repair is replacement with the revised adjustable drag link which will give us back what we had and originally purchased. I'm simply not going to accept or allow anything short of that.
 
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jaflowers

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OK, I just went and looked at that Synenergy draglink assy, and the only concern I have is fine tuning the adjustability. what I mean by that is, if you need a half a turn to center your steering wheel you cant do it because of the way the draglink tube is bent, if you attempt to do a half turn of the of the draglink you will put the rod ends into such a bind not to mention at half a turn the tube will smash into what ever is above it, no good. it is either a full turn or nothing, same goes for the rod ends. you cant do half turns and expect things to bolt in from the other direction, the truck and parts are not designed to do that. so for that reason I will be replacing the adjuster sleeve with one from Moog ($130) and I will have the fine tuning that FCA designed into the draglink, IE I can make 1/8 turn on up to full turns.

Hey Dr. J, I also happen to be an A&P here in DTW, hence the safety wire...lol
While you are partially correct that the Synergy bar can/does move a bit when adjusting it is still VERY easy to adjust in small increments, no full turns are needed. You just manipulate the bar while you're adjusting the nut....it's really simple. I've been under and adjusted mine a few times now, as I'm a perfectionist for a straight steering wheel, it really is very easy once you've done it a couple times. Seems to be a great fix so far compared to the cheesy welded nuts solution. I'm happy I went this route.
 
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Snyd

Snyd

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Regarding the Syndergy and FCA, etc....

My problem is I have a Lifetime Maxcare warranty. I don't want to do anything to the truck that FCA could use against me at some future date if I have front end problems. Including not getting a Safety Recall done. I want that recall cleared off my truck.
 

POINTMAN380

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Regarding the Syndergy and FCA, etc....

My problem is I have a Lifetime Maxcare warranty. I don't want to do anything to the truck that FCA could use against me at some future date if I have front end problems. Including not getting a Safety Recall done. I want that recall cleared off my truck.
After I bought the synergy drag link and got reimbursed, I asked them specifically if this would clear the recall (I never took it in to be welded). They advised me that the minute I was approved for reimbursement, the recall was deleted. Just FYI
 

JRS950

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Done! This is a bogus repair for an issue that other manufacturers have figured out long ago. Mine is fixed and after 15000 miles still okay, but sooner rather later, it will need an alignment. Cutting and rewelding? Not what I signed up for!

Jim
CC 3500 4x4 dually CTD/Aisin.
 

mtnrider

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You guys do know that you can fill out a form and get the cost of a Synergy drag link (or a new RAM part or other vendor) and the installation cost reimbursed by FCA, right. I had my check in hand within 8 calendar days from the time I sent in the form.

When did you get reimbursed? I have only seen 1 person in the last 6 months get reimbursed (maybe that was you) Everyone else has been denied. Yes, initially they were reimbursing people but cut it off about 6 months ago (except for the 1 I saw on here a couple weeks ago)


.
 

MegaRam18

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Done! This is a bogus repair for an issue that other manufacturers have figured out long ago. Mine is fixed and after 15000 miles still okay, but sooner rather later, it will need an alignment. Cutting and rewelding? Not what I signed up for!

Jim
CC 3500 4x4 dually CTD/Aisin.
My understanding is that the drag link essentially just adjust the position of the steering wheel and has nothing to do with alignment. Irregardless I've ordered the updated Mopar drag link for $120 and will be installing that. I also filed the complaint. I will also be filing for reimbursement

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BLUEDERANGO

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Alright, the latest from my end of the country..
I ordered the "New design" part from a RAM dealer.. Part number P68338342AB and 2 new nylock nuts..total cost was $138.00 including shipping.
I contacted FCA and filed a claim for reimbursement yesterday, they asked for and received a copy of the invoice and credit card receipt. They said I would have my check in about a week.
No argument or BS.. Just a simple transaction..
I installed the part in my truck, took about an unhurried hour.
I suggest that anyone trying to do this themselves buy's , begs, borrows a puller such as the one in the photo, makes the job a breeze .
Re-centering the steering wheel is easy and you will have to do it to get it perfect, I marked everything but it was a hair off and a simple turn of the adjuster nut centered it.
After reading several months of forum posts I decided to just fix it and forget, no real cost involved, just a little effort which I do enjoy doing,,IMG_0726.JPG IMG_0726.JPG IMG_0734.JPG IMG_0734.JPG IMG_0733.JPG
 
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