Dreaded ABS Light

[houdlm]

I've been getting the "Service Electronic Trailer System" and "Service Anti Lock Brake System" lights every start up. When this happens I'm unable to use my cruise control as well. I've read through some things to try and have replaced my back 2 speed sensors hoping this would take care of it. It didn't, so I ordered the front 2 speed sensors. Before I change them I did notice something this week. If I drive 20 miles at highway speeds, then stop and turn the engine off and restart the truck, all my warning lights go away and stay off. I am able to use my cruise control again and everything seems normal. Does this make any sense? I feel like if it were a sensor it would not fix itself after warming up or driving 20 miles. Also, if it were the ABS module, wouldn't it stay in warning mode and not flicker back and forth? I'm confused and trying to avoid a dealer trip. I have a 2014 RAM 1500 Laramie Limited with 148,000 miles on it. Any help is greatly appreciated.

 

[PoMansRam]

I'm assuming since you were able to remove the old speed sensors without them breaking off, you don't live in the rust belt? The tone rings the sensors read off of could have missing teeth, etc. Hard to say. Could be a broken wire, bad connection, etc.

We all hate to pay $90-120/hr for labor, but provided a good diagnosis is happening, it's worth it.

 

[Loudram]

Invest in a nice code reader. One that does abs and srs codes. They are worth it. They'll run you between $100 and $150. Check to see what code your throwing. The code reader might be cheaper in the end than throwing parts at it.

 

[WY-Dave]

I had the the same 2 msgs and what fixed mine was that the fuses were not seated all the way in on all of the fuses. This was about 14 months after getting the truck. At first I thought that it was because of the scrub board raods shaking the **** out of the truck. But it has been about 8 month now and the fuses are still nicely set.

I know that yours is a 2014, but it would not hurt to check. Intermittent problems are a PITA

 

[KMKKOZ]

Could be a bad ground somewhere. Not super helpful, but many of those kind of problems are boiled down to this. I have heard that when the trailer disconnect error happens, wiring in the rear bumper can have a bad ground.

 

[Tach_tech]

Step 1 with any warning light is to get codes retrieved, not throw parts at it.

ABS light can come on for a lot of different reasons, not just a wheel speed sensor.

 

[GTyankee]

Go to your local auto parts store, like Autozone, Oriellys, Advance
Most of them have a decent scan tool & if you ask them, they will go out to your vehicle & run a scan.
They may give you a print out, but definitely write down the codes if they don't.
Those codes can be deciphered

 

[indept]

Have you checked the battery? A battery going bad has been known to cause all sorts of electrical gremlins. That would explain it working after you restart it.

 

[Wahrsuul]

I had to replace the front sensors on my '09 for this issue. They're a bit more involved that the rear ones. I got the cheap ones from Rock Auto, I think $15 each?

My issue was a little different - I'd be on the highway for a while when the ABS and traction control lights would come on and the cruise would stop working. Stop the truck, turn it off, start back up and everything is fine again. When it started happening in town, I got it scanned at a garage . They wanted big $$ to replace the sensors, but I got them for RA and did ti myself. Been running great since.

 

[houdlm]

I apologize I should have given more info. I did get the OBD MX2 reader and installed the OBD software. I used this to delete my factory air bags and go stock. The code I'm getting on the ABS is "C2200-49 Anti-loc Brake Module Internal Electronic Failure". I have read some of your post before and I did try to re-seat all the fuses, disconnected the battery for 30 mins, cleared the code with the reader. Does a module get intermittent like this when going bad? I don't mind ordering a new one and swapping it out, just seeing if I'm missing something obvious. I did see in my OBD tool and option in the ABS section of resetting the VIN. Does this mean I can get a new module and "sync" it with my VIN and all will be recognized? I've read where people had to take it to dealer to get new module flashed. Thanks again for all input.

 

[Tach_tech]

You need an ABS module. The only cause of that code is an internal fault in the ABS module.

The module has to be calibrated when installed so unless you have the ability to do that a dealer would still have to do the programming.

 

[houdlm]

Thank you sir, I'll order one and replace and make an appointment to flash it. Thanks for all the advice guys, this forum is a great place to come for help and support.

 

[vernitron]

When you clear the code and then restart the vehicle without driving it does the code reappear? The information I read at the time said if that the code does not reappear until you start driving, then it wasn't a problem with the module. I had a similar problem with my 08 Wrangler JKU and this would happen to me. I would clear the code, restart-no code, and I soon as I would get to about 10mph the light would come on and a new fault code. I tried many things: replaced brake light switch, rewired my trailer brake controller, cleaned the contacts on the big connector in the engine bay (don't remember what that was for right now I think it was the connector for the ABS module). Finally I removed each ground terminal connecting to the engine bay and cleaned them and sprayed with a contact cleaner and reinstalled. None of them appeared loose or excessively dirty. Never got another fault for at least 2 years after before the jeep was stolen. Hope you can find/fix.

 

[Brian2081]

Houdlm, It sounds like your battery may not be doing well. After 20 min of driving the alternator has given the battery a sufficient charge so everything is now getting the correct voltage and amps.
I would suggest having the battery load tested at a trusted shop or autoparts.

 

[houdlm]

vernitron, yes this is exactly what is happening to me. I can clear the code and start the truck and let it run with no faults or codes. When I back out of my driveway and get about 50 yards down the street the codes pop back up. I just can't figure why after 20 miles or so I can turn truck off and back on and all codes stay cleared as I drive again. Seems like if it were a bad ground it would always stay in fault? On a side note I have a new battery I installed back in November. Hopefully it's not that, but I will have it checked out. I just called the dealership and was quoted $896 for just the ABS control module with no labor for install since I'm doing it myself. Now I'm curious what they will charge to flash the new module.... Kinda scared to ask.

 

[vernitron]

Houdlm, your experience is different than mine for certain. I would try removing/cleaning/retightening the grounds in the engine compartment and see if it goes away. It can't hurt, might help. I don't trust any mechanics and try to do my own work, so I was not looking forward to replacing the module and bleeding the system, etc. So I was very happy when it worked for me. Good luck!

 

[Nystagmus]

Houdlm, what ever happened with your truck ? I’m having the same exact issues right now with my 2014 Longhorn with 95k miles. I’ve actually got a thread about it I’ll try to attach.

My Post

 

[GTyankee]

may i suggest, if you don't have any Warranty in effect on your Ram

Find a good Brake & Alignment Shop with the ASE Certification placard on the wall