Dreaded Red Lightning Bolt

[109Countries]

I have a 2006 1500 4wd with the 5.7 Hemi. Three years ago, I had the computer malfunction and fire one of the cylinders at the wrong time, smashing the spark plug and costing about $2300 in damage. The check engine light intermittenly comes on with left side lean. There is a hole in the exhaust due to rust, but I had noticed that the truck seems to lack the power it used to, and I run seafoam religiously through the gas and brake booster. A couple of days ago, the truck was running fine, when all of the sudden it shuttered and the red light came on. The truck barely moved, so I pulled it over. Turned off the ignition, and it started right up. I went another mile, and it did the same thing with a loud pop (like a balloon popping). The CEL came on, but I made it home and pulled the battery cable off for about 20 minutes and reconnected it. It kicked out the battery disconnected code, and hydraulic pressure low. I tried relearning the throttle body, which I read here, and in the process, the CEL went out again. I thought it was fixed, but about 20 minutes into a 30 minute drive on the interstate, the truck shuttered, lost power, and the lightning bolt came on again. This was while going 70mph. I put the transmission into neutral and started it, and it kept driving. I was in the middle lane in rush hour traffic. Scary. Most of the time there is no CEL that came on, but yesterday the CEL came on. I will recheck that, but should I just assume I will buy a new throttle body? https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...,1432338,fuel+&+air,throttle+body+gasket,6474 has them for 1/2 the price of autozone, so if that's the typical fix, I will go with this. Or should I take off the air intake and douche the throttle body with carb and choke cleaner?

 

[Karlsweg]

First try to push the connector all the way in on the throttle body. It may not be making a good connection. I had to give it a good push on my 07 to get rid of the lightning bolt. I also cleaned the plug and male connectors. Try this first it only costs some time.

 

[109Countries]

So I took off the intake hose, put a can and a half of the seafoam throttle body cleaner in. The throttle body was filthy, so I took it off and cleaned it with brake cleaner. I cleaned the TB connector with electric cleaner spray, as well as the IAT sensor, and applied dielectric grease to both. It was good for about 45 minutes, then acted up again. I cycled the key three times, and here’s the codes it spit out:

P2122 Possible Causes
What does this mean?
Faulty Accelerator Pedal Position (APP) Sensor
Accelerator Pedal Position (APP) Sensor harness is open or shorted
Accelerator Pedal Position (APP) Sensor circuit poor electrical connection
Faulty Powertrain Control Module (PCM)

P1618 Possible Causes
What does this mean?
Faulty Engine Control Module (ECM)
Engine Control Module (ECM) harness is open or shorted
Engine Control Module (ECM) circuit poor electrical connection

Error Code P0642 is defined as Sensor Reference Voltage “A” Circuit Low, meaning there’s an abnormally low voltage reading detected within the “A” circuit, likely caused by faulty engine control module or other malfunctions.


This specific P0522 engine code is triggered when the PCM sees too low of a value in the engine oil pressure sender/sensor. If the engine oil pressure actually does drop too low, the engine can be permanently damaged, so if you notice low oil pressure, it is critical that you pull over and shut off the vehicle as soon as safely possible. For this trouble code, the cause is more than likely electrical related.


P0113 Possible Causes
What does this mean?
Faulty Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor
Dirty air filter
Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor harness is open or shorted
Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor circuit poor electrical connection

 

[109Countries]

I disconnected that battery and cleared the codes, and reset the throttle body. Once I started the truck again, it revved to like 3k, and went back to 6-700 rpm idle. It was idling a little rough there for a few minutes, but took it out for another 30 minute in town drive. Seemed to do okay sitting in traffic. Does this seem like it would be the PCM? This started very recently.

 

[Karlsweg]

It’s not uncommon for the revs to go up on initial start up. Mine goes to about 2500 and drops down gradually within 10 or so seconds.

 

[109Countries]

So the issue is back, despite lots of seafoam and cleaning the throttle body. The check engine came on, but there were no codes that came up on the dash when rotating the key 3 times. Now the remote start turns off and shuts on. Would the throttle body replacement be next?

 

[Karlsweg]

Red lightning bolt or check engine light on?

 

[109Countries]

Both. I just changed out the TB, and the lighting bolt came back, and I could feel it hesitate going down the road. It eventually threw the CEL, and here's what I got: P0513, P0113, P0522 and P2122. Would the ECM be the next step? I saw them for $220. Or should I check the sensors?

 

[LoneWolf3574]

Other than what the codes are, I don't have a good idea as to what the actual issue may be. Here's what those codes mean.

P0513 - Incorrect Immobilizer Key
P0113 - Intake Air Temperature Circuit High Input
P0522 - Engine Oil Pressure Sensor/Switch Circuit Low Voltage
P2122 - Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch 'D' Circuit Low

https://www.engine-codes.com/ - Follow the links for Dodge

 

[109Countries]

Thanks. All codes tie to the PCM. I'll check for corroded grounds and chaffed wires.

 

[LoneWolf3574]

Thanks. All codes tie to the PCM. I'll check for corroded grounds and chaffed wires.

Check the plugs into the PCM as well. I'm not positive, but I believe that those wires all go into the same plug on the PCM. Check to be certain each is firm into the plug as well.

 

[jerry iranian]

Dear friend, I know that the contents mentioned in this post are old. But I have had the same problem with Dodge Ram for more than a month and the mechanic still couldn't find it exactly. The last result was that I bought a new TB and I was happy that the problem was solved, but unfortunately yesterday after driving about 10 15 km when the engine warmed up. Suddenly, behind the traffic light, it turned off. And because I had a doctor's appointment, I had to continue going. In short, on the highway, I felt that the engine did not have full power, and as soon as I reached the doctor, the engine light came on twice, the red power light came on, and the RPM went up and down until I turned it off, and after a while, I parked in front of the doctor's office. The engine cooled down, I turned it on, and because I was driving fast, there was no problem until I reached home. Now, is there anyone here who can give me some advice on what to do? I spend over $500 and still have problem

Really appreciated if someone can help . I live in Vancouver Canada . if any one want to talk to me let me know I give you my number
Sorry I forget the Code Always was P 0642
Yesterday Was P 0430 and P 0642

Sincerely

Jerry