Driveline suspension issue

[Clebreton]

After you do motor mounts, have you tried stopping (if it works) with just the park brake and not the reg. brakes, would cut out using the calibers, What about when you back up, Any different?
Sounds like brake lock up to me.
If you have it up on jack stands, and it's safe, run the rear axel and hit the brakes, then turn off the truck and see if you can turn the wheel or not by hand. You could also check parking brake the same way to see if they release or bind up
Would work way better on a lift, you could watch all the wheels and drive shaft.

I had a 2010 , great truck , till a chev idiot in Saskatoon run into me and insurance wrote it off.

Park break was shot so replace the cable and shoes. Doing trans mount and engine mounts once they come in, it does not do it when I back up. I can take of in revers and it’s fine second I go into drive and hold down the brakes for 5-10 seconds it does it
I will jack it up again and try what you mentioned.

 

[rzr6-4]

Replace rear parking shoes and calipers rotors and pads today bled the breaks and still does it.

Ok so I did all this on top I replaced
Upper control/ ball joints arms both sides
Lower ball joints both side and tie rods sway bar bushing and links

Park break was shot so replace the cable and shoes. Doing trans mount and engine mounts once they come in, it does not do it when I back up.

Sir, put the credit card down and step away from the parts desk.....

You have replaced a bunch of parts with really no common theme in their direction, so I know that you're just throwing money at it and hoping something works.

Save yourself a lot of time any money and have someone help you with Dianostics. You may just need an extra set of eyes or hands from your wife, or maybe you need to give your mechanic friend a case of beer.

At this point, the money you've spent you probly could have just taken it to a mechanic in the first place and been done with it.

 

[Clebreton]

Sir, put the credit card down and step away from the parts desk.....

You have replaced a bunch of parts with really no common theme in their direction, so I know that you're just throwing money at it and hoping something works.

Save yourself a lot of time any money and have someone help you with Dianostics. You may just need an extra set of eyes or hands from your wife, or maybe you need to give your mechanic friend a case of beer.

At this point, the money you've spent you probly could have just taken it to a mechanic in the first place and been done with it.

The thing is it went to 3 different shops lol and this is everything they have told me what was causing me the issue

 

[rzr6-4]

The thing is it went to 3 different shops lol and this is everything they have told me what was causing me the issue

Electronics can be difficult, but your symptoms sound like something more mechanical that a trained mechanic should be able to figure out fairly quickly. I would hesitate to return to any of those shops.

 

[Wild one]

Easy way to check motor mounts is open the hood and watch the engine from the drivers seat,put it in drive and floor it while stomping on the brake pedal so the rear tires don't spin,if you have shot motor mounts you should see the engine move around a fair bit,do the same in reverse

 

[Marshall]

Another point, while it's jacked up, sitting on jack stands, not just a jack, I know someone died when they relied on a jack all.
Turn one wheel by hand and listen to the rear end , turning wheel or drive shaft both ways,
You could have a shot bearing in there, I still think it is brakes.

 

[Clebreton]

Electronics can be difficult, but your symptoms sound like something more mechanical that a trained mechanic should be able to figure out fairly quickly. I would hesitate to return to any of those shops.

yeah fair enough you

Another point, while it's jacked up, sitting on jack stands, not just a jack, I know someone died when they relied on a jack all.
Turn one wheel by hand and listen to the rear end , turning wheel or drive shaft both ways,
You could have a shot bearing in there, I still think it is brakes.

all callipers and rotors/pas replaced. Still doing it seams a bit better tho

 

[Jeepwalker]

Lets take a step back. Are you sure it's driveline related? Have you checked the bushings in the rear arms? They tend to get loose and fail...not sure if that would do it, but worth a check. Does your truck have a limited slip diff? Plug your vin into the Mopar site and get a print-out of your options. Maybe it does and you're getting chatter ...need some special LSD lube.??

When the rear is up on jackstands...did you lift up on each rear wheel (check wheelbearings), and check the pinion...and center driveshaft carrier bearing (if present)...and the rear tranny (xfer case) output bushing? All that stuff should be checked ....with no load/tension on the driveshaft.

Are you sure it's driveline related? Remove the air intake boot, and check for a bunch of fuel deposits on the throttle blade and around the throttle bore. That's a maintenance item that is often ignored. Clean with throttle body cleaner and a plastic (solvent-safe) soft bristled brush (no wire brushing of ANY kind should be used!). Check the PVC hose and gromet..make sure they're not cracked. All hoses are where they should be. Battery connections are very good. The ground is good to the body and engine. There's a major ground point behind a plastic door above the driver's tire. I've seen them get super rusty. Clean if needed. Same with the grounds back by the fuel filler neck (backside of the box) ..there are a bunch of grounds back there.

Is there a miss of any sort? Any check engine lights?

 

[Moparfanatic21]

One thing I didn't see is brake hoses. They could fail allowing the caliper to stay "on".

 

[18CrewDually]

After reading through this thread it seems to me you have isolated it to transmission.

 

[Clebreton]

Lets take a step back. Are you sure it's driveline related? Have you checked the bushings in the rear arms? They tend to get loose and fail...not sure if that would do it, but worth a check. Does your truck have a limited slip diff? Plug your vin into the Mopar site and get a print-out of your options. Maybe it does and you're getting chatter ...need some special LSD lube.??

When the rear is up on jackstands...did you lift up on each rear wheel (check wheelbearings), and check the pinion...and center driveshaft carrier bearing (if present)...and the rear tranny (xfer case) output bushing? All that stuff should be checked ....with no load/tension on the driveshaft.

Are you sure it's driveline related? Remove the air intake boot, and check for a bunch of fuel deposits on the throttle blade and around the throttle bore. That's a maintenance item that is often ignored. Clean with throttle body cleaner and a plastic (solvent-safe) soft bristled brush (no wire brushing of ANY kind should be used!). Check the PVC hose and gromet..make sure they're not cracked. All hoses are where they should be. Battery connections are very good. The ground is good to the body and engine. There's a major ground point behind a plastic door above the driver's tire. I've seen them get super rusty. Clean if needed. Same with the grounds back by the fuel filler neck (backside of the box) ..there are a bunch of grounds back there.

Is there a miss of any sort? Any check engine lights?

Yeah the rear control arm bushings and track bar is shot that’s what I thought was causing it in the first place but all 3 shops said no that wouldn’t cause it.

Yes it has lsd and that was the first thing I did was open it up and check looked fine.

Wheel bearing are good from what I could tell. I did not check the pinion or carrier bearing. Will do that next with everything else you mentioned

It’s gotten better and only does it at about 10km

Thanks for the advice appreciate it.

 

[Clebreton]

One thing I didn't see is brake hoses. They could fail allowing the caliper to stay "on".

This is very true I replace only 1
Only way I know how to check those is open the bleeder line and see if it squirts out rather then drip out

 

[Clebreton]

After reading through this thread it seems to me you have isolated it to transmission.

Would that cause a drag then a wheel hop at 10km tho according to the shops I took it to they say no
Need to find an actual good shop to take it to

 

[Marshall]

bleeding would work.
if you could get it on a lift with all the wheels off the ground, sitting in the truck in drive, foot on brake, then let off the brakes and have some one watch all the wheels
They should all turn without any gas ( in 4wd) I would think, if one don't turn feed a bit of gas

If you had it at 3 shops, someone should have had it on a hoist and checked that???????
Jacking each wheel up , hold the brake, let off and wheel should be free, just thinking out loud.
2 people, easy to check May have a little drag, but should be able to turn the tire by hand as soon as brake peddle released.

 

[Dean2]

If you are in Edmonton take it to Bill at Premium Automotive. Exellent mechanic, learned before codes were the only thing. Honest as the day is long. Tell him Dean recommended him. Have sent 40 or more guys to him., everyone has been more than pleased with his work prices and knowledge.

Take him a detailed list of what you have done, parts replaced and the order you did it in.

14528 118 AVE
Edmonton, AB T5L 2M8
Canada

 

[Clebreton]

Well figured it out. Realized I didn’t put the trans mount in so did that and the wheel hop was 75% gone! Replaced rear control arms and track bar and now have no wheel hop

 

[Dean2]

Delete