Driveshaft UJ To Rear Diff Yoke Alignment

[EViS]

I replaced the rear diff pinion seal on my Ram 1500 this afternoon. Prior to disassembly I marked everything up incl. the pinion nut itself so it all goes back exactly the same.

However, whilst cleaning I managed to remove most of the marking I drew between the differential housing and yoke. Once the yoke (and pinion nut) was reinstalled, I offered up the driveshaft UJ to the yoke and realised that those markings (and bolt holes) were slightly off. I pulled the driveshaft out from the transmission and rotated it one notch which resulted in everything lining up again.

Is there anything wrong in having rotated the driveshaft one notch in the transmission to realign the rear UJ with the diff yoke? Or should I remove the yoke again and rotate it a notch so everything is reinstalled exactly as it was previously?

 

[OC455]

I don't think it's going to make a difference if you rotated the drive shaft one spline. If the pinion and ring are all in and installed it shouldn't matter if you rotated the pinion yoke to get the drive shaft in again.

 

[crash68]

Where the driveshaft is slipped over the end of the transmission spline isn't going to matter. What you do want to make sure is the u-joints on the driveshaft are phased correctly to on each end, they should be identical on both ends.

 

[Jeepwalker]

OP: You might know this already, but tighten the yoke nut good and snug but don't reef on it so hard as to crush the 'crush sleeve' in any further than it was before. That's how the preload is set (you don't want to tighten it 'in' anymore). I dont know what the Ram torque spec is (maybe someone will chime in). The Yoke shouldn't feel too tight when rotated by hand afterwards (wheels off, and on jackstands).

I would personally apply some blue locktite on the nut and yoke threads if it were mine. There was at one time Rams which the rear pinion nut would work loose, and cause a lot of downstream damage. You don't want that.

 

[DILLIGAF]

Always use a fresh pinion nut. and never ever reuse a crush sleeve since you wont be able to set you preload properly.

This is easily avoidable by using a crush sleeve eliminator kit.

Blue Loctite wont do ****. You need the proper tools to set pinion preload.

As posted already just make sure you driveshaft is timed correctly.

 

[Jeepwalker]

Always use a fresh pinion nut. and never ever reuse a crush sleeve since you wont be able to set you preload properly.

This is easily avoidable by using a crush sleeve eliminator kit.

Blue Loctite wont do ****. You need the proper tools to set pinion preload.

As posted already just make sure you driveshaft is timed correctly.

Not a bad idea to use a new pinion nut, but I've reused many. That's me. Never had one come loose, ever. I've replaced a lot of diff seals for many, many years ...and I know many guys/mechanics who also have, using the existing crush sleeve. In fact, GM used to state in their service manual some time ago, a specific torque when reinstalling using the same crush sleeve (for seal replacement). I just happen to be most familiar with GM diffs.

I personally wouldn't replace the crush sleeve, and I doubt if you took a Ram to the dealer for a seal replacement they would replace it either (they would use a new nut). It's overkill for a seal replacement. If a guy DID replace the crush sleeve, which I've done on several occasions for more involved diff/bearing repair, then you're talking a LOT more work. It would require removing the axles and (ideally) gears to set the pinion pre-load with an in/lb's torque wrench, which few people own. And you need a stout pinion 'holder' tool to hold the pinion while you are tightening and crushing the sleeve. That's out of most guys DIY relm.

Usually the torque spec for installing a new crush sleeve (and setting pre-load) is rather wide ...something along the lines of 170-270 lbs (that's just an example for some rear diff's). During torquing, you can 'feel' when a new crush sleeve is beginning to 'crush'. Once that starts, then it's a matter of continuing till the right pre-load is reached. But that's for major work. For replacing a seal, a guy wants to tighten the pinion nut tight, but not so much as to further collapse the crush sleeve which was set at the factory.

I guess the best approach would be to defer to the Ram service manual per pinion seal replacement.

 

[EViS]

Thank you for all of the advice! For my own peace of mind I put the driveshaft back into the same spline it came out of and simply rotated the wheels a tad to realign the yoke.

One final question as I can't find a spec anywhere - what torque should the four 15mm bolts be tightened to holding the driveshaft UJ to the diff yoke?